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  1. 24 points
    I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.
  2. 21 points
  3. 17 points
    Having just passed 10k miles this week, I thought I would offer my opinion on how I feel about the truck so far. Background: I special ordered my LT Trail Boss back in May 2018 and picked it up in September 2018. I have almost every option that you can order on it except the sunroof (would have delayed my production at the time). My truck was built the very first week of production (7/09/2018) and is one of only a small handful of Red Silverados, if not the only one, to receive the Gideon/Dark Atmosphere leather interior as that color was changed to not an option for Red Silverados on the second week of production. Within the first week or two of receiving it, I installed a custom Electronic Cutout System for my exhaust, Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 33.5x12.5R20 mud tires, an Undercover Ultra Flex tonneau cover, and vinyl wrapped the scoop portion of my hood. Review: Honestly, I can't believe its been 10k miles already and those miles have flown by without any major issues. I will start with the few issues I have experienced. For the first two months, I had Bluetooth connectivity issues where my phone would randomly disconnect and reconnect multiple times a day. This was fixed in November by software update V507 and has not reoccurred, knock on wood. I also have had Service ESC and Service Parking Brake lights (not at the same time) come up randomly a couple of times but they went away on their own the next time I started the car. Other than these two issues, the truck has been great. It has 110% met and exceeded my expectations. It drives great, its quiet (when the exhaust cutout is closed), its smoother than my K2 was, and it turns a lot of heads. The interior is beautiful and well laid-out, with tons of room in the back seat (Crew Cab) and very comfortable seats for long trips. The Bose surround sound with subwoofer kicks butt and delivers crystal clear, crisp sound. The Blind Spot monitors and Rear Traffic Alert (Safety Package I) work great and have saved my butt many times already. The 5.3 is much quicker and more agile than my K2 was and the 8 speed is a definite improvement. The new Dynamic Fuel Management is seamless and unnoticeable. I am averaging 14-16 mpg city and 16-18 mpg highway, with an all-time high of 21 mpg on a specific highway trip I took and that's pretty good in my book for a lifted brick with mud tires. This past weekend I went on a ski trip in Up North Michigan (Harbor Spring, MI) and we received 10-12 inches of snow in the 3 days I was there on top of the 2 ft that was already there. The Trail Boss handled it with no issue and made it up the steep, winding, snow-covered road to our hill-side cabin like it was driving on straight, dry pavement. I have yet to do any major offroading but during the light offroading that I have done here and there, it performed excellently. I did punch the gas on one little hill and got some air (about 1-2 ft off the ground) and the suspension absorbed the landing nicely. I look forward to testing its capabilities more this summer. The short bed is much bigger in this generation and I honestly haven't noticed any reduced space issues when loading my truck (my K2 had the standard 6.4 ft bed). Also, the oil is much easier to change since they freed up the space around the filter and plug, making oil changes a breeze. Overall, I am very blessed to have this great truck and couldn't be happier. No one pressured me to write this review, nor did GM have any contact with me about it. This is my honest opinion on how I feel about the truck and I hope this review helps anyone thinking about buying one to make the right decision for them. If anyone has any specific questions at all, please feel free to ask.
  4. 16 points
    Been a while since posting here since I barely get any time to myself these days - Picked up an embossed grille and stole the upper trim off of it. Retrofitted it into my grille. - Got my headlights back on. Got the corners cleared with Klearz (courtesy of Crisp GM Customs). - Testing out these aftermarket DL3 Mirrors. They support power fold and memory (just like the factory DL3s) - Handles are now switchbacks (courtesy of Crisp GM Customs) - Truck got a bath (LOL) - so neglected. UPR Catch Can, Borla Catback Exhaust, and new NavTV - GM650, and Redline Emblems are next on the list to be installed - IF I can get a free day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 16 points
  6. 16 points
    Just had to make a quick post and let everyone know she's finally home. We picked up our 2019 Northsky Blue Metallic LTZ about an hour ago.
  7. 16 points
  8. 15 points
    Hey everyone, I've been lurking the site for a while now and figured I would share some pics of my 19 trail boss. I cleaned it up and figured I should take a few snap shots. Enjoy!
  9. 15 points
    Seat Memory Retrofit (RPO - A45) by pgamboa So I gave everyone a sneak peak of my radio that showed the “Comfort and Convenience” options. This option is an option when you have the A45 - Seat Memory Package, typically found on LTZ, High County, SLT, and Denali Trims. Since owning my truck (2016 Silverado LT, 1500 CCSB), I started down the path of adding Seat Memory because I thought this was upgrade path in order to add DL3 Mirrors (power fold, turn signal, puddle light, etc.) I originally only wanted DL3 Mirrors but it seemed (at the time) that I could or would need to add Seat Memory since all the circuits for DL3 Mirrors and their harnesses were built for Seat Memory. When I realized that adding Seat Memory was never going to happen and couldn’t be done, I always wanted to know why. The MAIN reason why it has been said it couldn’t be done, wasn’t because that it couldn’t, but because of all the hardware, wiring, and programming requirements needed in order to achieve it. There is a HUGE parts list, a TON of wiring, then the programming. I’m here to share my retrofit details with all of you! Let’s start with my truck first. 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, CCSB, Gas, 5.3L, 2WD. Came with Factory Heated Leather Seats, Power Adjust Driver Seat, Power Adjust Pedals, Rear Park Assist Sensors, Rear Sliding Window, DL8 Mirrors. I came across an opportunity to buy a complete interior that came from a higher trim truck (mainly for the heated/cooled seats is what I wanted) and took this opportunity to give this another shot, considering that I would have a majority of the hardware. Retrofit Requirements: First and foremost - Programming. There is a K40 - Seat Memory Module that lives under the Driver’s Seat. This needs to be programmed to your truck. Programming done by WAMS - www.whiteautoandmedia.com. @GTPprix Thanks for this! The K40 Seat Memory Module was sent off to get programmed to work with my truck/my VIN. Hardware - DL3 Mirrors, DL3 Door Harnesses, DL3 Door Panel Harnesses, DL3 Power Fold Switch (different than the non-Seat Memory Power Fold Switch), DL3 Passenger Window Switch (DL3 Passenger Window Switch has two inputs as opposed to one), Heated/Cooled Seats, K40 Seat Memory Module, Pedal Adjust Memory Motor (still need to source one). Wiring - There is a TON of wiring needed. There are about 10-12 circuits that need to be added to the driver side seat connector X310 (cabin side). These circuits go forward and land in various places (X51L Fuse Panel, X61A Junction Box, Pedal Adjust Motor, Passenger Seat, both Door Jambs (cabin side), Passenger Side Kick Panel). You will also need to access both door jamb (cabin side connectors) to remove circuits that will no longer be used in favor of new seat memory circuits. So, as you can see, you will have to have the ability to overcome this as it can be a bit overwhelming. You will also need to ability to comprehend the schematics differences between Seat Memory versus non Seat Memory. There are several circuit redirects and circuits that get abandoned in favor of new circuits to live in those slots, etc. So…as you can see, this is why it always been understood as “it can’t be done”. I have everything working EXCEPT for the pedal adjust - memory recall. I can manually adjust the pedals using the adjust button on the I/P. The pedal motor is different in Seat Memory versus Non Seat Memory, so I will be exploring that soon. It seems that I am missing a pedal position sensor. This is fully functional now Here is a list of what I gained and what is working: Key Fob Mirror Fold In/Out Reverse Mirror Tilt Mirror Memory Pedal Memory Seat Memory Set Switch 1 & 2, Easy Exit Heated/Cooled Seats on both seats Power Adjust Passenger Seat Power Adjust Driver Seat Driver Seat - Haptic Feedback (when in Reverse) What doesn’t work Pedal Adjust Memory Recall - This is the last piece of this upgrade and is a work in progress. I am exploring the requirements for this. Pedal Adjust Memory Recall works now after installing the Pedal Adjust Position Sensor. $15 on eBay for that. I couldn’t drive my truck for 3 days since the driver seat was moved ALL the way forward when it was removed from the donor truck. This was done to gain access to the rear bolts needed to remove the seat. I was NOT able to get the power adjust on the driver seat to work until day 3 of this project, therefore, making the truck not driveable. I inadvertently had to make a “Seat Memory Bypass, Power Adjust Harness” to be able to move my seats in the meantime. This custom harness bypasses the Seat Memory Module and provides power to the adjust controls. Depending on the need for this, I may make/sell this harness for those without seat memory that want to install these heated/cooled seats, and be able to adjust the driver side. The Driver Seat adjust controls go THROUGH the Seat Memory Module. So until you can get entire system to work, you won’t be able to adjust the driver seat. If you currently have Factory Heated Seats, adding cooled seats is rather simple and is plug and play (no programming required). If you DO NOT have Factory Heat, I don’t know how much more work is needed to gain that. Most likely, you’ll need programming for the K29 Seat Heating Control Module and/or BCM. Since I have Factory Heat, the K29 Seat Heater Module was already present under my factory seat, so to gain cooling for the Driver Side, I only had to land one wire for the Vent Motor from the passenger side over to the driver side. For the most part, the passenger seat was Plug and Play. I was able to quickly gain power adjust on that side since its controls do not interface with the MSM Memory Seat Module). However, you WILL get an airbag warning error because the seat position sensors are all handled by the MSM. Without a fully functional MSM, you’ll have to add the physical Seat Position Sensor to get this error to go away. There is really NO easy way to integrate this. No Plug and Play harnesses that will make this all work. So please don’t ask me about one - LOL. You really need to have an understanding of how to add missing circuits and circuit redirects. I had to redirect circuits in 4 places. I did make 2-3 mistakes in this project. I forgot to land missing circuits (totally missing them) and I landed circuits incorrectly - blowing the pedal adjust fuse. So…you have to be fully prepared if you decide to tackle this project. Here are some photos to share. I also took some video clips of the entire process and will try to put a video together. Enjoy! Dash Swap was done only because I had the seats already out, so might as well swap out my vinyl dash for the leather that came with the interior I bought. Since I had to remove seats and carpet to gain access to the cab side seat connectors, might as well Sound Deaden. Lol. New Comfort and Convenience options! Cab Side - Passenger Seat Connector (X320) Cab Side - Driver Seat Connector (X310) - With my harness loom of new circuits added. The dreaded X61A- Junction Box An impromptu harness I had to make to adjust my driver seat without the MSM working. The impromptu bypass harness. Can’t drive like this. Seat now adjusted to optimal driving position! LOl
  10. 14 points
    Just got her Saturday! Leveling kit, tires and wheels all done on this fine President’s day! Next up, black bow tie, tinted windows.
  11. 14 points
    No gap, be nice about Binki. He served with me on my last deployment to AFG. A child sent me a care package, Binki was inside. He was my Scout, FireWatch, ammo runner. I've had him for five years, still has AFG moon dust, and some sand left in him...
  12. 14 points
    Washed and put ceramic booster on to really bring out the shine of the ceramic pro. Like a black mirror
  13. 14 points
    Decided to give my exhaust tip a makeover. I bought an MBRP Installer series exhaust for my 17 Silverado about a month ago. After a month of use and a weekend driving on the beach in salty water, the tip started rusting and looking like crap. I know its a cheap exhaust but I expected a little more life out of the components. Anyways powder coating is one of my many hobbies so I figured why not. Turned out pretty good and should continue to look good for the life of the exhaust. Prior to prep Sandblasted down to bare metal Sprayed and into the oven Final product
  14. 14 points
    Added to the family and took a really good picture with the truck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 13 points
    DILLY DILLY I was driving down the road and a deer ran out in front of my Chevy. .Piece of crap, never happened with my Jeep.
  16. 13 points
    Making progress on the frame replacement. What I wouldn’t give to have access to my truck and a power washer right now...
  17. 13 points
    I posted this in another thread, but they were looking to only have the fogs on with high beams. My solution has the fog lights automatically turn on, and stay on, anytime the parking lights or headlights come on (hi and lo beam). You never have to hit the button. Figured I'd label this as a "How To" in case those are housed somewhere. I'm new to this forum, so let me know if I should be doing this differently. Cheers! Hey guys - recently bought a 2016 Sierra Denali and joined the forum. Stumbled upon this thread while clicking around. I always gain so much from these forums, so I thought I'd give back in my first post. Here is a simple solution I made to have the fog lights automatically turn on with the day time running lights - did this with my previous truck as well (2008 Cadillac Escalade). I bought a diode and used some 14 gauge wire I had laying around. I wrapped 14 gauge wire to each end of the diode and sealed it with marine grade shrink wrap (waterproof). I then got into the engine bay fuse box and pulled the fuses for the fog lights (#49) and day time running lights (#28 or #29 - can be either, only need one). When I put the fuses back in I wedged the wire in one of the slots for the fuse connector, one end of the diode/wire goes in the fog light fuse and the other goes in the DRL fuse. Keep in mind the diode is directional (only allows current one way), so if it doesn't work at first just flip the wire around. Now anytime your DRL's are on, the fog lights will automatically come on. No need to push the fog light button. The fog lights also stay on when you turn on your brights. I attached a photo of my set up, it was taken standing over the driver side fender looking at the fuse box. Ask any questions if you got em!
  18. 13 points
    My son topped off my blinker fluid this morning. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  19. 13 points
    Yes lots of people have... You take your 2 wheel drive truck to the chevy dealer and pick out the 4x4 truck that you like best, negotiate a price and whatever you lose out on trading in your 2 wheel drive will be much less than the nightmare of trying to upgrade your 2 wheel drive to 4x4 by buying parts....
  20. 12 points
    Well, relatively simple at least. I was tired of having to go into the truck to turn the cargo lights on and off, so I wanted to add a secondary switch in the bed. I searched and found multiple results about adding a secondary set of lights, which was not what I was looking for, so here's my solution. I wanted to add a secondary switch to turn on/off the factory cargo lights, and retain the 10 minute auto-shut off. Through some searching I found that the switch in the truck works by pulsing a momentary ground to a pin on the BCM, which is pretty easy to replicate/extend. Materials: Wire. I used some red/black 2-wire, I'll explain why later. A small scrap of solid core wire. 2 waterproof push button momentary switches. Here's what I did: Soldered a small scrap of solid core wire to both leads to the red/black 2-wire. This made it easier to tap into the BCM. Tapped into pin 18 of the blue plug on the BCM. There's a solid gray wire on that pin. Ran the wire out of the cabin (using this method:) and then down the underside, following a large bundle of wires and using some wire clips that GM/Chevy was nice enough to leave available for use. Popped out one of the cargo tie down plugs, and ran the wires through. Here's why I used the red/black 2-wire - measure enough wire out to go back through the hole and then under the bed to the other side, then cut. Now we have enough wire to install a switch on both sides of the bed. Drilled the plug to fit the push button momentary switch, and installed the switch in the plug. Cut ONLY ONE of the wires at the drivers side hole, and wire it to one lead of the switch. Connect the scrap of wire you just cut off (red in this case) to the other lead of the switch. Run both the red scrap and the black wire back through the hole, and reinstall the plug. I didn't take any pictures of this part unfortunately, but run the red scrap of wire to any grounding point and secure. Then run the black wire to a cargo tie down plug on the other side and repeat the steps to wire and ground it. Then enjoy your 2 new readily accessible cargo light switches! This activates the same as the cargo light switch in the truck, so any modifications you've made like the reverse lights on with the cargo lights will work just the same as if you pressed the switch in the truck, and retain the 10 minute auto shut off. Any comments/questions/clarifications please let me know and I'll do my best to get back to you!
  21. 12 points
    Sounds as if there may be a loose nut behind the wheel, or something like that.
  22. 12 points
    Her she is after a long wait to get what I wanted. 2019 Trailboss LT Cajun Red Sunroof Catback Exhaust Cold Air Induction Kit Convenience Package II Chevy Sprayed Bed Liner Upgraded Full Coverage Floor Mats Underseat Storage (enroute) Installed Console safe already I have a bed cover to install, but just picked her up and it is raining ice here in Chicago so will have to wait. Eventually going to tint out the windows and install more lights in the grill like I had on my 2016. Included pics of the 2016 LT I traded in for it for reference. I love this truck. Was worth the wait....
  23. 12 points
    Added leather Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 12 points
    Kiss my premium ass... That cheap enough for you... Smart ass. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  25. 12 points
    Not the greatest shot but Here's my Trail Boss. Wasn't planning on getting the Trail Boss until I saw it in person and kind of had to after that. Love it so far. Coming from a 2015 Silverado LT.
  26. 12 points
    And all is good in the world. I took the advice many of you offered and brought in donuts and explained I might have gone a little overboard. The manager thanked me and in return gave me Gas cards for my inconvenience. I told him I appreciate the gesture and would highly recommend his service bay for friends and family. In fact , last night I received 2 separate calls from 2 separate advisors, on the issue. I mentioned how happy I was with how it all worked out.
  27. 12 points
    a while ago in this thread one of the guys showed some pics of some new hitch covers he got from kempter kustoms they looked AWESOME so i checked out the link above and found a part of the webpage where you can order a custom hitch cover. so then my dilemma was 'do i just order the awesome boba fett hitch cover or go full custom?'... well, i went full custom. after a few emails back and forth i placed my order and today my hitch cover showed up - it's AWESOME!!!! this is my men's hockey team jersey (i've run this team for 9 seasons now - just a great bunch of guys - they are like brothers!) and this is the hitch cover that showed up today.... what i LOVE is that they left the eye 'hollow' and there is a cutout in the back of the hitch cover so i can add an LED. i'm going to use a red LED and wire it to my brake light! ha! ha!
  28. 12 points
    I may be in the minority here but I love that opening as a hand hold for hopping in the bed. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  29. 12 points
    For anyone interested I believe I will have the ability to do programming very soon. I have made quite a bit of progress and hope to have the reprogramming method refined and ready within the next few weeks. Please stay tuned. You won't wanna miss this ;)
  30. 12 points
    Added some LED engine bay lights. Went with a sealed push button vs pressure switch (since I don't need a light every time I open the hood)
  31. 12 points
    Finally got decent enough weather to finish dipping. Installed my new carbon fiber mirror caps.
  32. 11 points
    It's evident that you can't be experienced in driving a variety of trucks in a variety of off road conditions. Every truck, will react differently on a surface due to a number of factors. Those include but aren't limited to: the surface itself, tires, suspension, wheelbase, and weight. Now considering you have a z71 suspension, it's relatively stiff compared to other models. Every truck will do what you experienced under the right conditions. My 2014 z71 our main highway would rattle your brains out due to its lack of dampening. The pavement wasn't broken but heaved due to frost and freeze thaw. I put some 5100s on it, and she handled the same bumps like a champ. Still bumpy mind you, but no need for traction control to kick in. My Crew Cab Standard Box NHT reacts extremely different on the same stretch of road. I used to have to drive down dirt roads for hours at 40 to 50mph to go to work. Everyday for weeks at a time. I drove a 2014 Ford FX4 crew cab standard box and 2014 Sierra double cab all terrain. Hit the right bumps and the rear end kicks out. Sometimes violently. Always in the exact same sections of road. The right bumps will cause conditions to have the rear slide out. You don't have perfect traction. It's simple to understand. In my expereicne the Ford would more commonly kick the rear end out, but the GMC was much more violent when it did. You even stated yourself that you let off the gas. You do realize that would cause a weight transfer forward. Resulting in less traction from your rear wheels. The only logical conclusion is you were driving too fast for the conditions. There is no safety issue with the truck. You're the safety issue.
  33. 11 points
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  34. 11 points
    So as many of you know we completed most of our initial K2XX development on one of the very first production salable Yukon Denali's at launch of the K2XX SUV's. This continued with each minor iteration including another 2016 Yukon Denali for new feature integration and into other platforms with shared architecture from there on out. That said it was time to return to our roots back to K2XX but this time with something different ;) Say hello to our new 2018 Sierra Denali development vehicle! (and no we did not park it like this lol) We will be using this vehicle relatively short term to finish some of the specific functions/features that have been requested but we were unable to fully test (we do not release anything we have not fully vetted in a long term test vehicle) so this should allow for some hopefully exciting new offerings. Heres what we've done so far that may interest you guys (not listing the cosmetic stuff :)) -HMI Full Unlock, Video in Motion from USB, Nav Entry in motion, Vehicle config in motion, Rear Camera in motion -Rear camera in motion thank to @pgamboa's fantastic super easy plug and play harness (and the above programming) -Remote start run time extended to 20 Minutes per Cycle (40 minutes total). -Fogs with High beams WITH Auto High Beams - Fogs work in BOTH modes. Those of you with Intellibeam know that simply pressing the fog lamp button kills the auto high beam function completely on a factory truck. We have other things we are working on as well that are Truck specific as well such as cargo lamps available at all times (in motion etc). Some of this will directly translate to T1XX Trucks as well and we have done quite a bit on those as well, we will likely grab a T1XX SUV for development in 2020 as well. Stay tuned as we are going to have a lot of fun with this thing!!
  35. 11 points
    Picked it up over the weekend.
  36. 11 points
    My new Trailboss in Satin Steel.
  37. 11 points
    Picked this one up Saturday morning, traded in my 2017 Audi Q7 on it.
  38. 11 points
    Well guys, it finally happened with the 2019's coming out and all these dealers trying to move their new and used 18's I broke down and upgraded my 2014 GMC 1500 to a Certified 2018 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 w/ only 2700 miles! I am pretty excited about it, she's bone stock and she won't last that way for long. Going from 35's to stocks is going to be quite the transition at first, but don't fret! There are changes coming soon and I figured I would track my build right here, hope y'all will enjoy! It already started yesterday as I did some research and discovered my K & N cai will fit on the 2018, so I pulled that off and put the stock intake back on, also took the hidden light bar out of the grill, and of course took my good ole trusty tool box off (this will be truck number 5 for the tool box!). I placed an order just a few minutes ago and there are more goodies coming soon! Please let me know if y'all have any comments, ideas, or questions!
  39. 11 points
    Your truck is completely fine. Only thing it may have hurt was your fuel mileage.
  40. 11 points
    This was a given known the way the Liberal government likes to work in Canada. Run deficits, increase taxes wages and living cost, basically inflate the dollar as much as possible, no way to sell our oil, and offer no incentives for small or large businesses. It's practically treasonous policy that will do nothing but destroy our economy. Thanks Trudeau. You guys really don't know how well you have it in the USA under Trump, mainly because your media companies straight-up lie to you as they do in Canada. We know he is a champion and ours is a globalist shill.
  41. 11 points
    Had my truck detailed this past weekend. Also posted these and a couple more in my build thread. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado
  42. 11 points
    Well I'll Join the Club... just picked Red up on Wednesday...
  43. 11 points
    Finally got hood swap done, really glad I did it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 11 points
    My 2018 has an anti-sleep function and built-in seat and steering wheel massage. To activate the anti-sleep function, just get up to cruising speed on the highway. The vibrating and deep cabin rumble will keep anyone awake. The massage function is on any time the truck is rolling, it massages your back , butt and legs and the steering wheel vibrations take care of your hands. The transmission clunking kicks in ever now and again just to be sure you aren't asleep.
  45. 11 points
    Had about 45 minutes and with this 100°+ heat, that what 45 minutes too much! Had to take my illuminated handles off to get some switchbacks retrofitted in them. Figured this would be a perfect time to add some chrome lock knobs while I had the panels off. I can never just do one thing. Lol. Thanks [email protected] for the idea! Lock knob rods are for an Escalade, so I just swapped the knobs since the rods are different. The little details I tell ya. Lol. I like the touches of chrome on the inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  46. 11 points
    So I recently bought a 2018 Silverado LTZ z71 Midnight Edition, and the truck was way too nice for my garage. Stains in the concrete, holes in the wall, scuffed up paint....Something had to be done! Finished pic...I still need to paint the door and trim Before Scrubbed Concrete Primed Silver Metallic Epoxy Red Metallic Painted Walls and Ceiling and added baseboards Truck Shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  47. 11 points
    Replaced my cubby hole cover plate with the trailer brake cover plate. Then cut out opening for my light switches. Trailer brake cover plate is flatter and accepts switches better with a "factory" like look.
  48. 10 points
    Well after months of research, I took home my 2018 Silverado LTZ CC yesterday. I can't tell you how helpful this forum has been for me over the last few months. There is an insane amount of detail and information on here and most of us could do circles around most dealer reps with our knowledge. To keep it brief, I procured a 2018 Silverado LTZ with the Sports Pkg (20" wheels and Bose), buckets and trailer brake. I got over $13500 off MSRP of $51675. This did not include the finance rebate of $1500 as I paid cash. This was an upgrade in trim over my 2016 LT. Again, thanks to this forum, I got top of KBB "Very Good" for my 2016 Silverado trade. The New England area is not close to these deals that people talk about on this forum from places like Laura, Howard Bentley, Rogers MN, etc. However Banks Chevy in NH (again thanks to the forum for making me aware) an hour away from my house gave me this deal. I wanted to also thank Borntorun for his contribution on the Costco rebate discussion, which saved me an additional $500. I had no idea expired, yet previous members could still be eligible for this. I drove it to my NH house today and it was great. I'm swapping my Bakflip Revolver 2 tonneau this weekend. I also got a discount on the spray in bedliner at the dealer. Keep the info flowing haha!!! Bob
  49. 10 points
    Jeez you're right.. I increased the backlight filter and there he was!
  50. 10 points
    Can’t beat some free Craigslist’s finds! I just happened to finish my fire pit the same day. Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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