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  1. 26 points
    Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days! Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
  2. 24 points
    I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.
  3. 21 points
    Having just passed 10k miles this week, I thought I would offer my opinion on how I feel about the truck so far. Background: I special ordered my LT Trail Boss back in May 2018 and picked it up in September 2018. I have almost every option that you can order on it except the sunroof (would have delayed my production at the time). My truck was built the very first week of production (7/09/2018) and is one of only a small handful of Red Silverados, if not the only one, to receive the Gideon/Dark Atmosphere leather interior as that color was changed to not an option for Red Silverados on the second week of production. Within the first week or two of receiving it, I installed a custom Electronic Cutout System for my exhaust, Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 33.5x12.5R20 mud tires, an Undercover Ultra Flex tonneau cover, and vinyl wrapped the scoop portion of my hood. Review: Honestly, I can't believe its been 10k miles already and those miles have flown by without any major issues. I will start with the few issues I have experienced. For the first two months, I had Bluetooth connectivity issues where my phone would randomly disconnect and reconnect multiple times a day. This was fixed in November by software update V507 and has not reoccurred, knock on wood. I also have had Service ESC and Service Parking Brake lights (not at the same time) come up randomly a couple of times but they went away on their own the next time I started the car. Other than these two issues, the truck has been great. It has 110% met and exceeded my expectations. It drives great, its quiet (when the exhaust cutout is closed), its smoother than my K2 was, and it turns a lot of heads. The interior is beautiful and well laid-out, with tons of room in the back seat (Crew Cab) and very comfortable seats for long trips. The Bose surround sound with subwoofer kicks butt and delivers crystal clear, crisp sound. The Blind Spot monitors and Rear Traffic Alert (Safety Package I) work great and have saved my butt many times already. The 5.3 is much quicker and more agile than my K2 was and the 8 speed is a definite improvement. The new Dynamic Fuel Management is seamless and unnoticeable. I am averaging 14-16 mpg city and 16-18 mpg highway, with an all-time high of 21 mpg on a specific highway trip I took and that's pretty good in my book for a lifted brick with mud tires. This past weekend I went on a ski trip in Up North Michigan (Harbor Spring, MI) and we received 10-12 inches of snow in the 3 days I was there on top of the 2 ft that was already there. The Trail Boss handled it with no issue and made it up the steep, winding, snow-covered road to our hill-side cabin like it was driving on straight, dry pavement. I have yet to do any major offroading but during the light offroading that I have done here and there, it performed excellently. I did punch the gas on one little hill and got some air (about 1-2 ft off the ground) and the suspension absorbed the landing nicely. I look forward to testing its capabilities more this summer. The short bed is much bigger in this generation and I honestly haven't noticed any reduced space issues when loading my truck (my K2 had the standard 6.4 ft bed). Also, the oil is much easier to change since they freed up the space around the filter and plug, making oil changes a breeze. Overall, I am very blessed to have this great truck and couldn't be happier. No one pressured me to write this review, nor did GM have any contact with me about it. This is my honest opinion on how I feel about the truck and I hope this review helps anyone thinking about buying one to make the right decision for them. If anyone has any specific questions at all, please feel free to ask.
  4. 21 points
  5. 20 points
  6. 17 points
    Man, you've had an easy life if this is the "worst day ever."
  7. 17 points
    Been a while since posting here since I barely get any time to myself these days - Picked up an embossed grille and stole the upper trim off of it. Retrofitted it into my grille. - Got my headlights back on. Got the corners cleared with Klearz (courtesy of Crisp GM Customs). - Testing out these aftermarket DL3 Mirrors. They support power fold and memory (just like the factory DL3s) - Handles are now switchbacks (courtesy of Crisp GM Customs) - Truck got a bath (LOL) - so neglected. UPR Catch Can, Borla Catback Exhaust, and new NavTV - GM650, and Redline Emblems are next on the list to be installed - IF I can get a free day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 17 points
    Just had to make a quick post and let everyone know she's finally home. We picked up our 2019 Northsky Blue Metallic LTZ about an hour ago.
  9. 16 points
    After a month of modifications it's finally here: 2019 Chevy Silverado RST, 5.3L 4x4 in Summit White (angry storm trooper edition) List of Mods: - 6 inch BDS Suspension Lift with Fox Racing Shocks - 35 inch Nitto Tires - 20 inch Fuel Wheels - Custom black paint on the center cap of the Fuel wheels to completely black them out and cover the badging - Amp Research retractable running boards - Under Cover Lux color matched bed cover - Debadged handle of the Under Cover Lux bed cover - Painted the handle of the Under Cover Lux bed cover (black to summit white) - Painted the black portion of the tailgate with the back up camera (black to summit white) - Painted the shark fin antenna (black to summit white) - Painted the chrome around the boarder of the front Bow Tie (chrome to summit white) - Replaced the horrible looking and giant radio antenna with a short stubby one - 3m tint on all windows to include the front wind shield - Removed the RST lower bumper and replaced it with the lower bumper off a High Country. We then took the chrome portion and painted it summit white and wrapped it in paint protection film. - Fully debadged the entire truck to give it that nice clean look - GM Branded Borla Exhaust. OF NOTE: The exhaust note on the GM Branded Borla is CONSERVATIVE to say the least! A little too conservative for my liking. After having an Eisenmann Race Exhaust on our BMW X5M, my wife won't let me have anything loud....) - We cut the pipe on the GM Branded Borla Exhaust so it would remain under the truck and not be visible. - Replaced license plate lights with LEDs - Replaced back up lights with LEDs - Custom made clear corner lenses in the front headlights - Disabled the orange running lights behind the clear corners - Replaced the orange turn signal bulbs with a chrome plated ones. This eliminates the orange reflection that standard bulb gives off - Spray on bed liner - Spray on bed liner in the rear wheel wells. This added protection and blacked out the area. - Removed the "chin guard" under the lower front bumper - Removed the cheap looking mud flaps. I have color matched plugs on order to fill in the holes on the side of the truck. - Installed the "Auto Start/Stop Eliminator" - Installed the Escort 360C using a blend mount under the rear view mirror. The radar detector is hard wired into the power supply behind the rear view mirror. - Installed the Escort M1 Dashcam. This is a direct add on to the Escort 360C. - Relocated the "Apple Carplay USB" from the dash into the center console. This was challenging due to the fact that my Silverado has the bench seating up front. - Removed the ugly warning stickers from the sun visors. Minor mod, but it bugs the crap out of me... List of up and coming mods: - GM Branded Cold Air Intake - 4 Layer Ceramic Pro Coating - USB Plug to replace the one that was relocated to the center console. - 2 Sets of Escort ZR5 Laser Shifters that will connect with the Escort 360C - Gap Guards to cover the small gap in the rear wheel well - Color matched plugs to fill in the holes left behind by the plastic mud flaps Special thanks to: Mike Wilson @ Blackjack Speed Shop Rich Ordaz @ Blackjack Speed Shop Phil Sheridan @ Fastheadlights.com
  10. 16 points
    Seat Memory Retrofit (RPO - A45) by pgamboa So I gave everyone a sneak peak of my radio that showed the “Comfort and Convenience” options. This option is an option when you have the A45 - Seat Memory Package, typically found on LTZ, High County, SLT, and Denali Trims. Since owning my truck (2016 Silverado LT, 1500 CCSB), I started down the path of adding Seat Memory because I thought this was upgrade path in order to add DL3 Mirrors (power fold, turn signal, puddle light, etc.) I originally only wanted DL3 Mirrors but it seemed (at the time) that I could or would need to add Seat Memory since all the circuits for DL3 Mirrors and their harnesses were built for Seat Memory. When I realized that adding Seat Memory was never going to happen and couldn’t be done, I always wanted to know why. The MAIN reason why it has been said it couldn’t be done, wasn’t because that it couldn’t, but because of all the hardware, wiring, and programming requirements needed in order to achieve it. There is a HUGE parts list, a TON of wiring, then the programming. I’m here to share my retrofit details with all of you! Let’s start with my truck first. 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, CCSB, Gas, 5.3L, 2WD. Came with Factory Heated Leather Seats, Power Adjust Driver Seat, Power Adjust Pedals, Rear Park Assist Sensors, Rear Sliding Window, DL8 Mirrors. I came across an opportunity to buy a complete interior that came from a higher trim truck (mainly for the heated/cooled seats is what I wanted) and took this opportunity to give this another shot, considering that I would have a majority of the hardware. Retrofit Requirements: First and foremost - Programming. There is a K40 - Seat Memory Module that lives under the Driver’s Seat. This needs to be programmed to your truck. Programming done by WAMS - www.whiteautoandmedia.com. @GTPprix Thanks for this! The K40 Seat Memory Module was sent off to get programmed to work with my truck/my VIN. Hardware - DL3 Mirrors, DL3 Door Harnesses, DL3 Door Panel Harnesses, DL3 Power Fold Switch (different than the non-Seat Memory Power Fold Switch), DL3 Passenger Window Switch (DL3 Passenger Window Switch has two inputs as opposed to one), Heated/Cooled Seats, K40 Seat Memory Module, Pedal Adjust Memory Motor (still need to source one). Wiring - There is a TON of wiring needed. There are about 10-12 circuits that need to be added to the driver side seat connector X310 (cabin side). These circuits go forward and land in various places (X51L Fuse Panel, X61A Junction Box, Pedal Adjust Motor, Passenger Seat, both Door Jambs (cabin side), Passenger Side Kick Panel). You will also need to access both door jamb (cabin side connectors) to remove circuits that will no longer be used in favor of new seat memory circuits. So, as you can see, you will have to have the ability to overcome this as it can be a bit overwhelming. You will also need to ability to comprehend the schematics differences between Seat Memory versus non Seat Memory. There are several circuit redirects and circuits that get abandoned in favor of new circuits to live in those slots, etc. So…as you can see, this is why it always been understood as “it can’t be done”. I have everything working EXCEPT for the pedal adjust - memory recall. I can manually adjust the pedals using the adjust button on the I/P. The pedal motor is different in Seat Memory versus Non Seat Memory, so I will be exploring that soon. It seems that I am missing a pedal position sensor. This is fully functional now Here is a list of what I gained and what is working: Key Fob Mirror Fold In/Out Reverse Mirror Tilt Mirror Memory Pedal Memory Seat Memory Set Switch 1 & 2, Easy Exit Heated/Cooled Seats on both seats Power Adjust Passenger Seat Power Adjust Driver Seat Driver Seat - Haptic Feedback (when in Reverse) What doesn’t work Pedal Adjust Memory Recall - This is the last piece of this upgrade and is a work in progress. I am exploring the requirements for this. Pedal Adjust Memory Recall works now after installing the Pedal Adjust Position Sensor. $15 on eBay for that. I couldn’t drive my truck for 3 days since the driver seat was moved ALL the way forward when it was removed from the donor truck. This was done to gain access to the rear bolts needed to remove the seat. I was NOT able to get the power adjust on the driver seat to work until day 3 of this project, therefore, making the truck not driveable. I inadvertently had to make a “Seat Memory Bypass, Power Adjust Harness” to be able to move my seats in the meantime. This custom harness bypasses the Seat Memory Module and provides power to the adjust controls. Depending on the need for this, I may make/sell this harness for those without seat memory that want to install these heated/cooled seats, and be able to adjust the driver side. The Driver Seat adjust controls go THROUGH the Seat Memory Module. So until you can get entire system to work, you won’t be able to adjust the driver seat. If you currently have Factory Heated Seats, adding cooled seats is rather simple and is plug and play (no programming required). If you DO NOT have Factory Heat, I don’t know how much more work is needed to gain that. Most likely, you’ll need programming for the K29 Seat Heating Control Module and/or BCM. Since I have Factory Heat, the K29 Seat Heater Module was already present under my factory seat, so to gain cooling for the Driver Side, I only had to land one wire for the Vent Motor from the passenger side over to the driver side. For the most part, the passenger seat was Plug and Play. I was able to quickly gain power adjust on that side since its controls do not interface with the MSM Memory Seat Module). However, you WILL get an airbag warning error because the seat position sensors are all handled by the MSM. Without a fully functional MSM, you’ll have to add the physical Seat Position Sensor to get this error to go away. There is really NO easy way to integrate this. No Plug and Play harnesses that will make this all work. So please don’t ask me about one - LOL. You really need to have an understanding of how to add missing circuits and circuit redirects. I had to redirect circuits in 4 places. I did make 2-3 mistakes in this project. I forgot to land missing circuits (totally missing them) and I landed circuits incorrectly - blowing the pedal adjust fuse. So…you have to be fully prepared if you decide to tackle this project. Here are some photos to share. I also took some video clips of the entire process and will try to put a video together. Enjoy! Dash Swap was done only because I had the seats already out, so might as well swap out my vinyl dash for the leather that came with the interior I bought. Since I had to remove seats and carpet to gain access to the cab side seat connectors, might as well Sound Deaden. Lol. New Comfort and Convenience options! Cab Side - Passenger Seat Connector (X320) Cab Side - Driver Seat Connector (X310) - With my harness loom of new circuits added. The dreaded X61A- Junction Box An impromptu harness I had to make to adjust my driver seat without the MSM working. The impromptu bypass harness. Can’t drive like this. Seat now adjusted to optimal driving position! LOl
  11. 16 points
    Hey everyone, I've been lurking the site for a while now and figured I would share some pics of my 19 trail boss. I cleaned it up and figured I should take a few snap shots. Enjoy!
  12. 16 points
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  14. 16 points
    so i had an idea a while ago... i have been using a 2x8 in the back of my truck as a 'divider' (just sliding it into the little groves on each side of the box). it worked great but i wanted to do something a little 'more'. i came up with 2 layouts that i liked - i ended up going with the bottom one: one of the pieces of equipment i have with my business is a laser cutter, so using taped together file folders i created the template.... put the template on the 2x8.... and transferred all the 'cut outs' i wanted to use a router, but to make life a little easier, i drilled out as much as i could first.... once the drilling was done i screwed plastic jigs to the 2x8 (i made the jigs with the laser cutter, just 1/8" plastic. my thinking was that the little wheel on the top of the router bit would just follow the cut out in the plastic.) it worked great! then use wood filler on all the screw holes... then sand it and get ready to paint.... and here it is... overall i'm really happy with it. the only thing i need to do is go get another can of flat black. i grabbed a can of what i thought was flat but ended up being semi gloss! ha! oh well, will add the final flat coat in the next couple days after i can get to a hardware store if anyone else wants to try the same thing i'll see if i can attach the file i used with my laser cutter... silverado box divider.ai ^^maybe it worked?? it's just an ai file - nothing special. if the above file didn't upload properly and you'd like to try this just fire me a private message with your email address and i'll send the file. the one thing i'd still like to add is a piece of stainless steel to the back side, but just behind the chevy logo - i think that would look sweet. i just need to get to a local metal shop
  15. 16 points
    Me personally, I would scratch buying a house for a few years while you rebuild your credit. I would pay your truck payments on time, plus a few extra dollars every month. A high interest rate on a auto loan, might raise your payments about $100/ month. A high interest rate on your mortgage can raise your payment $700/ month. That's an extra $8400/ year for nothing, that you throw away. Do that for 3 or 4 years, you would be throwing away $25-30k. If you buy a house at a high interest rate, and can't afford the payments anymore, then you foreclose on your house and your credit takes a hit again. Then you are in the same position again. If money isn't important to you, sell your truck and buy a house. But the smarter move would be keep your truck, rebuild your credit, then buy a house at a better rate. This is just my suggestion.
  16. 16 points
    Don't sweat it. The 2014 / 2015 front end looks better.
  17. 15 points
    Deep matte black vinyl wrap with a gloss black chrome delete!
  18. 15 points
    Here is our new 2019 Silverado RST. For details on all the modifications, here is a link to my build thread:
  19. 15 points
    Just got her Saturday! Leveling kit, tires and wheels all done on this fine President’s day! Next up, black bow tie, tinted windows.
  20. 15 points
    No gap, be nice about Binki. He served with me on my last deployment to AFG. A child sent me a care package, Binki was inside. He was my Scout, FireWatch, ammo runner. I've had him for five years, still has AFG moon dust, and some sand left in him...
  21. 15 points
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  23. 15 points
    Nice pics... I thought you meant another kind of SENIOR pics .....
  24. 14 points
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  25. 14 points
    My new ride Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  26. 14 points
    Here’s mine, I have full PPF (Paint protection film) the entire vehicle and stealth film on tail gate.. don’t mind my boy in the pic lol.
  27. 14 points
    Just installed new wheels on my AT4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 14 points
    Washed and put ceramic booster on to really bring out the shine of the ceramic pro. Like a black mirror
  29. 14 points
    Decided to give my exhaust tip a makeover. I bought an MBRP Installer series exhaust for my 17 Silverado about a month ago. After a month of use and a weekend driving on the beach in salty water, the tip started rusting and looking like crap. I know its a cheap exhaust but I expected a little more life out of the components. Anyways powder coating is one of my many hobbies so I figured why not. Turned out pretty good and should continue to look good for the life of the exhaust. Prior to prep Sandblasted down to bare metal Sprayed and into the oven Final product
  30. 14 points
    Added to the family and took a really good picture with the truck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 14 points
    Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock Part #: PL8140 http://www.popandlock.net/Power_Tailgate_Lock/Power_GM_Tailgate_Lock/Power_Sierra?product_id=141 1) Unlock & lower tailgate. 2) Remove (8) torx/star screws from inner tailgate access panel. 3) Remove panel and you'll see lock assembly [pic 002] 4) Remove old retailer clip & cam arm [pic 003] 5) Replace with new cam arm & retailer clip [pic 003] 6) Remove bolt on lock side, and place power assembly inside, lining up existing holes [pic 004] 7) Make sure metal slide in between white plastic prongs, next to cam arm, then replace & tighten bolt [pic 005]
  32. 14 points
    Wife and I floated the Frio River in Texas this past weekend. Absolutely gorgeous and the water was flowing nicely. She caught a pic of me coming back over the low crossing.
  33. 14 points
  34. 14 points
    Man up. Buy the truck or don't. What someone else will pay has no bearing on your financial situation. Everyone has a unique financial situation and goals. This is a poor place to seek financial advice .
  35. 14 points
    Mexican built Silverado no problems except the truck wont pass a taco bell and loves tequila
  36. 13 points
    Jump Seat to Full Center Console Retrofit Plug and Play Harness by PGAMBOA For those of you looking to swap your Jump Seat to a Full Center Console, I now have a Plug and Play Harness for this upgrade! This long awaited - PnP Harness will allow you to EASILY perform this upgrade. NO cutting or splicing needed! Center Console - Plug and Play Harness is $150 Shipped anywhere in the US. For Canada, please add $24.95. Since there are several versions and configurations of center consoles and truck trim levels, I feel that I have covered a majority of the configurations that are out there. There will be several assumptions on the ability to perform this upgrade and I’ll try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible. Please see the different USB Cable configuration diagrams at the end. Assumptions: - 2014-2015 Center Consoles will have different USB Cable requirements than 2016-2017 AND will have different USB Hubs. The PnP Harness should be compatible, but you MUST verify the connector under the passenger AND the front of the console! Since this is a custom product, there will be NO REFUNDS on it. - Center Console MUST have its factory harness intact and not modified. - Connection under the Passenger Seat AND Front of Center Console must look exactly like the diagram. There is a variant X314 Connector under the seat, so yours MUST match in order for this harness to adapt. - Additional GM USB Cables must be purchased separately (based on your console year) to get USB Hubs functional. - Wireless Charging - Wireless Charging became available on 2016 and 2017 consoles. If you are looking at adding a Wireless Charging Lid to a 2014-2015 Console, please PM me for requirements. Also, there are known issues with 2016/2017 Consoles with the Wireless Lid and charging iPhone 8 and iPhone X Phones. There are workarounds for this that require some form of modification to the charging module. You can also swap the module for a 2018 Module that DOES charge iPhone 8 and iPhone X phones. Please PM me for questions on specifics. - Your truck MUST have an existing 110V AC Outlet AND (1) - 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Plug as you will be reusing those. My PnP Harness DOES NOT add the 110V AC Outlet if you don’t already have it. However, I CAN add an additional 12V DC Outlet connection if needed. - USB Cable connections will come from your HMI (Behind the Glove Box). You MUST verify that you have the USB Ports available, otherwise, your USB Hubs will not work correctly. - This PnP harness DOES NOT add any Car Play, Apple Play, or Android Play functionality. If your truck did not already come with it, you will not gain it. With this PnP Harness, you ***should*** have ALL the components in your console functional. Those options include: Front of the Console: Front - Left USB Hub (Dual USB - 2016/2017or Triple USB Hub 2014/2015 - Uses my Plug and Harness AND a USB Cable from the HMI Front - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped. If not, I can custom add this if needed) Front - Right 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness Front - Right 110V AC Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped) Inside Storage Compartment: Inside - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Inside - Right USB Hub - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged in the front main 42-Way Connector and USB Cable Inside - LED Lamp - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Wireless Charging Lid (2016-2017 only) - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Rear of the Console: 12V DC - Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector THERE IS A LOT TO CONSUME HERE, SO PLEASE PM IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THIS. I WANT ENSURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND ALL THE REQUIREMENT FOR THIS RETROFIT BEFORE PURCHASING. 16-Pin - Plug and Play Harness 23-Pin - Plug and Play Harness
  37. 13 points
    Everyone out here complaining about sunglass holders being removed Well......here is a new one This plus cooled seats equals heaven Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  38. 13 points
    Not my truck. But completed another High Country Interior Retrofit. I failed to take a before pic. But truck had Cocoa Dune cloth interior. Swapped in High Country interior. - Dash Swap (Leather White/Stitched) - Added Heated Wheel - Heated/Cooled Seats (truck had factory heat), gained cooled. Console Swap (gained Wireless Charging) - Leather swapped shifter - Driver/Passenger seats are fully functional - Fixed Airbag Light Error Another happy customer! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 13 points
    Drove this RST Z71 home tonight. 140 miles to go get it, so I got a great first drive home. Love the ride and new features. Upgraded from my 2007 LT2 crew. Really loving this Satin Steel Metallic. All the sales guys were coveting my truck. Lol
  40. 13 points
    Well, relatively simple at least. I was tired of having to go into the truck to turn the cargo lights on and off, so I wanted to add a secondary switch in the bed. I searched and found multiple results about adding a secondary set of lights, which was not what I was looking for, so here's my solution. I wanted to add a secondary switch to turn on/off the factory cargo lights, and retain the 10 minute auto-shut off. Through some searching I found that the switch in the truck works by pulsing a momentary ground to a pin on the BCM, which is pretty easy to replicate/extend. Materials: Wire. I used some red/black 2-wire, I'll explain why later. A small scrap of solid core wire. 2 waterproof push button momentary switches. Here's what I did: Soldered a small scrap of solid core wire to both leads to the red/black 2-wire. This made it easier to tap into the BCM. Tapped into pin 18 of the blue plug on the BCM. There's a solid gray wire on that pin. Ran the wire out of the cabin (using this method:) and then down the underside, following a large bundle of wires and using some wire clips that GM/Chevy was nice enough to leave available for use. Popped out one of the cargo tie down plugs, and ran the wires through. Here's why I used the red/black 2-wire - measure enough wire out to go back through the hole and then under the bed to the other side, then cut. Now we have enough wire to install a switch on both sides of the bed. Drilled the plug to fit the push button momentary switch, and installed the switch in the plug. Cut ONLY ONE of the wires at the drivers side hole, and wire it to one lead of the switch. Connect the scrap of wire you just cut off (red in this case) to the other lead of the switch. Run both the red scrap and the black wire back through the hole, and reinstall the plug. I didn't take any pictures of this part unfortunately, but run the red scrap of wire to any grounding point and secure. Then run the black wire to a cargo tie down plug on the other side and repeat the steps to wire and ground it. Then enjoy your 2 new readily accessible cargo light switches! This activates the same as the cargo light switch in the truck, so any modifications you've made like the reverse lights on with the cargo lights will work just the same as if you pressed the switch in the truck, and retain the 10 minute auto shut off. Any comments/questions/clarifications please let me know and I'll do my best to get back to you!
  41. 13 points
    DILLY DILLY I was driving down the road and a deer ran out in front of my Chevy. .Piece of crap, never happened with my Jeep.
  42. 13 points
    Making progress on the frame replacement. What I wouldn’t give to have access to my truck and a power washer right now...
  43. 13 points
    I posted this in another thread, but they were looking to only have the fogs on with high beams. My solution has the fog lights automatically turn on, and stay on, anytime the parking lights or headlights come on (hi and lo beam). You never have to hit the button. Figured I'd label this as a "How To" in case those are housed somewhere. I'm new to this forum, so let me know if I should be doing this differently. Cheers! Hey guys - recently bought a 2016 Sierra Denali and joined the forum. Stumbled upon this thread while clicking around. I always gain so much from these forums, so I thought I'd give back in my first post. Here is a simple solution I made to have the fog lights automatically turn on with the day time running lights - did this with my previous truck as well (2008 Cadillac Escalade). I bought a diode and used some 14 gauge wire I had laying around. I wrapped 14 gauge wire to each end of the diode and sealed it with marine grade shrink wrap (waterproof). I then got into the engine bay fuse box and pulled the fuses for the fog lights (#49) and day time running lights (#28 or #29 - can be either, only need one). When I put the fuses back in I wedged the wire in one of the slots for the fuse connector, one end of the diode/wire goes in the fog light fuse and the other goes in the DRL fuse. Keep in mind the diode is directional (only allows current one way), so if it doesn't work at first just flip the wire around. Now anytime your DRL's are on, the fog lights will automatically come on. No need to push the fog light button. The fog lights also stay on when you turn on your brights. I attached a photo of my set up, it was taken standing over the driver side fender looking at the fuse box. Ask any questions if you got em!
  44. 13 points
    My son topped off my blinker fluid this morning. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  45. 13 points
    Not the greatest shot but Here's my Trail Boss. Wasn't planning on getting the Trail Boss until I saw it in person and kind of had to after that. Love it so far. Coming from a 2015 Silverado LT.
  46. 13 points
    Yes lots of people have... You take your 2 wheel drive truck to the chevy dealer and pick out the 4x4 truck that you like best, negotiate a price and whatever you lose out on trading in your 2 wheel drive will be much less than the nightmare of trying to upgrade your 2 wheel drive to 4x4 by buying parts....
  47. 13 points
    no, after she was crying, that's what I said she also gave me a very nice treat when she got home if you know what I mean
  48. 13 points
    We have three trucks lined up. All 2015 Sierras, 1 SLT and 2 Denalis. Stock Headlights Morimoto Sierra-Spec HID kit in factory housing FX-R Retrofit with XB35 bulbs courtesy or a popular retrofitter FX-R Truck Morimoto Kit FX-R vs Morimoto FX-R vs Stock Results: The Retrofit is obviously the brightest. The FX-R is a very bright and has a good beam. Issues were the build quality. Broken tabs, stripped adjusters and missing parts meant that we were unable to align them to the factory truck we had on site. Awesome upgrade and WELL worth the work, but either do it yourself and make sure it's done right or pay for a skilled retrofitter. The work to open these lights is painful and getting it right is important. Not being able to adjust these ones that he purchased means we will be removing them tomorrow and installing the factory housings back in with a Morimoto kit instead. My Morimoto kit was still quite bright despite being a much higher kelvin. Having this kit in own vehicle, I'm quite happy. I will be doing a retrofit at some point but for the time being I am happy. I have had no issues with the install and have had no issues with reliability since. For the cost and effort, I definitely recommend the TRS kit for these trucks. Great improvement from stock with little work. Stock is obviously rubbish compared to either setup and should be changed out ASAP. Retrofit: 10/10 Function 2/10 Ease of install Morimoto 8/10 Function 6/10 Ease of Install Stock Shitty.
  49. 13 points
    Hey all, I am new to the forums but wanted to share a recent project with you. I installed an iPad Mini 3 in the dash of my 2014 GMC Sierra.... integrated with the intellilink system built behind it to keep radio and bluetooth capabilities without having to buy an aftermarket head unit and amp. Check out the video here:
  50. 13 points
    Went in to get a tire patched. The dealership noticed my chrome rim starting get discolored. They said they would talk to factory rep and call me back so I could bring it to them. Instead they called to say it will be taken care off. This was all them being an advocate for the customer. Only reason I posted my little story is there are so many threads talking about bad dealerships. Just nice to have something positive to share.
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