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Mileguru

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Mileguru last won the day on April 12 2018

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About Mileguru

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

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  • Name
    Ryan
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Gender
  • Drives
    '17 Sierra 6.2L w/ TVS1900. '06 Sierra 5.3L MP112 4L80E 4.10

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  1. I'll try that, thanks.
  2. HAHAHA! Ironically, this is almost the truth with the way some of these DIs burn oil
  3. I thought my truck already came with oil in it though.
  4. You meant DON'T remove it so you can avoid the chopper noise. Aftermarket muffler + V4 ON needs the flapper still. Interesting note, I zip-tied my flapper open and got a little more exhaust note as expected, but what was unexpected was the improvement in trans shifting. I had some of the typical hard 1-2 shift with my 8-speed, but now it happens much less often (and when it does happen, it doesn't bang into 2nd so hard).
  5. I'm thinking of wiring in a switch to fully disable/enable Traction Control, Stabilitrak, and ABS to have more fun with my supercharger. Did you notice a difference when your wheel speed sensor was out and the Stabilitrak and ABS were out? I've heard that disabling Traction Control and Stabilitrak with a switch or fuse (not just with the console button that allows Stabilitrak to come back on at 35mph) helps the lifted trucks with bigger tires and lower gears too.
  6. Off topic, but I noticed that your ABS and Stabilitrak are off. Did you pull fuse #25, tap into the wheel speed sensor, use the Shane Hinds cable...? And where did you get a speedo that goes up to 200mph! =)
  7. Please read the original post.
  8. Ha! Just passed you a few weeks ago heading out to Riverside. Thanks for the info, I might just buy that instead to keep the fuse box uncluttered. I already have two wires coming out of it (supercharger and methanol). Please post up if you buy it. I'll do the same.
  9. Wait, I just saw that you're in SoCal too. Where are you? I'm near the 405 and 101.
  10. Did you try it out yet? Does that video referenced above (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XKVu2pU_f4) hold true for you and for this harness?
  11. I heard Shane Hinds is a sick tuner, too.
  12. Well that was easy! =) I can't see where the harness is plugging in. Do you know? Now to weigh the $50+ extra in cost and the loss of fun of DIY. The pre-made harness is probably a better way of doing it though...depends on how/where it plugs in. Regardless, I'm stealing the idea of using that switch and routing it through the 12V outlet. Thank you for this link, CajunFries!
  13. This has been touched on a few times here, but the past discussions didn’t answer which fuse to pull or give any usable pictures to follow. I hope we can open this up to discussion again. Goal: To fully and completely disable Traction Control (TC) and Stabilitrak (ST) for as long or as short as is desired. The systems can be fully turned on and off by flipping the switch that I build. Purpose: Some say that ST can hinder off-road driving or winter driving, so they desire a way to disable and enable the feature at will. In addition, others just want to do better burnouts and donuts. Side Effects: This process will also disable ABS braking for the time being. There will also be warning lights on the dash while the switch is flipped off. I’ll get some of the reasons why NOT to do this out of the way right now, but if someone wants to argue the merits of TC, ST, and/or ABS, please feel free to start your own thread. The focus of this thread is how to disable the features if one chooses to do so in a safe environment. So why NOT to do this would included the facts that TC, ST, and ABS can all aid some drivers in avoiding an accident. They were designed to be computerized safety features that never get tired, make decisions based on algorithms, and operate at speeds that humans are not capable of. Furthermore, one could easily be held liable for an accident if it can be proven that disabling these features was the cause of an accident. Past Process: Either pull fuse #3 (60amp fuse labeled “ABS PUMP”) or fuse #25 (25amp fuse labeled “ABS VALVES”). There has not been a consensus as to which fuse is the best one to pull, however. My proposed method detailed below will use fuse #25. Information We All Know So Don’t Bring It Up: You can turn off TC using the button under the radio. You can hold that switch down even longer and also turn off ST. ST will kick back on once the speedo hits 35mph (hence the reason for this thread). Interesting To Note: Another reason for this thread is that even when using the console switch to disable TC and ST, they are NOT fully disabled, as evidenced by this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XKVu2pU_f4 Alternative Processes So You Don't Have Manually and Repeatedly Pull the Fuse: 1) A forum member on here (thetruck454) splices into a wheel speed sensor down by the brake rotor. The toggle switch he wired in has the same result as what I'm proposing. 2) The guy in the video above spliced into the wiring under the fuse box for his fuse #9. 2) My suggestion (also found here https://www.silveradosierra.com/electrical/disabling-stabilitrak-w-a-toggle-t528889.html#p5296153) is to build a switch to engage and disengage fuse #25 at will so there is no wire splicing. I plan on pulling fuse #25, inserting a dummy fuse, and wiring an inline fuse holder and toggle switch so the 25amp fuse is still in the system. It should be 10 or 12 gauge wire. You can now switch this fuse on and off so that Traction Control, Stabilitrak, and ABS all turn on and off when you want them to. The yellow "fuse" is called a fuse socket connector and can be found on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/General-Technologies-Corp-CT6100-Connector/dp/B001TCXOTW) It is not an actual fuse. It's just in the shape of a fuse so you can insert it and feed off of it.
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