EDL

I have had the road force balance done, changed nothing. Still on the factory tires (I only have 35,000 miles on the truck) and am curious if different tires will change or fix things, but I'm not convinced it is the tires. I'm looking for a set of cheap used or basic 17" steel wheels to put snow tires on (17" snow tires are a lot cheaper than 22 inchers!). That will give me the chance to see if there is any difference. I've also tried the air pressure thing, but I have the 22" wheels with the rubber band tires and if I pump them up, the ride is horrible, but it doesn't change the vibrating at all either. I really do want to just get rid of the truck, but as mentioned a comparably equipped Ram is just too much right now. I think it's ridiculous that these trucks have had all these issues and GM just doesn't seem to want to do anything about it. I am also very unhappy with how I've been treated by the Chevy dealers and Chevy. I think the front brake pad issue should have been taken care of no questions asked. Yes, brakes are a wear item, but these obviously had a problem that was not due to normal wear and tear. I was also not happy that I had to spend more time and effort to finally get a dealership to do the tranny fluid change, especially considering the known issues, TSB's, and the fact GM admitted they put the wrong fluid in them. Being told that they don't do TSB's because "I" want it done? Really? Perhaps if the issue was something that wasn't on all vehicles, but this whole transmission thing is a no brainer, still.... I really don't want to have to go spend more time and money chasing down issues myself...I shouldn't have to. I am willing to try some things if they're relatively cheap and easy, like the clamps on the leaf springs, but I'm not paying to have the drive shaft balanced or any of the other crap others having to do. Regardless, even if I do somehow manage to get things relatively straightened out on the cheap, this is my first GM in 20+ years and it will be my last.

No, the vibrations I have are definitely not rotor related. Nothing changed in that respect after putting the new ones on. It feels exactly like out of balance tires, but that's not it either. I read over in one of the other threads that some are putting clamps either in front of or behind the rear axle to tie the leaf springs together and that has worked for several folks to eliminate most of the vibration and shaking. I might try that as the clamps are cheap enough. Also, they are saying the nuts on the u-bolts holding the leaf springs on seem to be quite loose (40-ish ft-lbs) and that tightening them has helped as well. The thing is, the vibrations aren't just in the rear, it's in the front too, the steering wheel vibrates along with it. I dunno. I seriously thought about just trading it in and going back to the Dodge (I've had three Rams since 1995 and all have been great trucks). We're on our second Jeep since 2014 and both have been great. The problem is, there are hardly any trucks on the lots because of this chip shortage and the prices have gone through the roof. To get a Ram with the same equipment I have on my LTZ it would be $71,000+. That's just ridiculous for a 1/2 ton pickup. Heck, I paid $35,300 in 2004 for brand new Ram 2500 diesel 4x4. I know, 17 years ago, but good lord vehicle prices have gone up a staggering amount since then (but my pay hasn't!).

My 2018 does the same. I finally got Chevy to do the fluid flush. First stealership refused, said they don't just do TSB's because I want it done. They supposedly checked everythi8ng out (kept the truck over night) and said it didn't need it. never mind GM admitted to putting the wrong fluid in them at the factory. Shortly after, I developed a weird harmonic that would come and go about every 20 seconds when cruising down the highway. Went to another dealer and they did the fluid flush and it fixed that issue, but it's still clunky in the lower gears, and when downshifting from 2nd to first, just like yours. Sometimes, when driving along at slower speeds (40-ish MPH or less) and I let off the gas, then give it gas again it thunks hard, like there's slack and it spins and then grabs. It's more like there is slack in the x-fer case or the rear end than anything. The truck has never been smooth at highway speed. If I get up near 80, it shakes so bad it feels like I'm losing control. Tire balance has not fixed it. All I hear is "that's normal." Uh huh. Not happy, and definitely not happy with Chevy either. At 26,000 miles on the truck, last year, it failed its first inspection because the front brake pads were not contacting the rotor across their full width and they wore a 1 inch groove in the middle of the rotors. Chevy refused to do anything about it because the rotors "had rust on them." Well, D'UH, the rotors rusted because the pads were not contacting them. Had to pay out of pocket for new rotors and pads at 26,000 miles.

Figures. No, nothing wrong with mine. My son put aftermarket projector housings on his truck and we're just looking at LED bulbs to put in it. After watching tons of videos on various tests, they all talk about designs to avoid and which ones work well to avoid dark spots, etc. Since the ones on my truck work well, thought if they were replaceable bulbs, we'd just go with the same kind. Oh well. Will just have do some more research and try some.

My 2018 Silverado has the LED projector headlights. For the life of me I can't find the OEM bulb for this truck, even on the Genuine GM parts places. All they show are the halogen and HID bulbs, or the complete LED headlight assembly. I just want to know what bulb it is (and specifically who makes it). Anyone know?

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11650 https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/gm-tech-tip-uneven-brake-wear/ Just google it...this is just a couple.

Oh, the brakes are getting fixed, and Chevy better fix them under warranty. Someone said they've never heard of these issues with these trucks. Apparently someone can't google. There's quite a few pages out there discussing this exact issue. Here's a couple. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11650 https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/gm-tech-tip-uneven-brake-wear/

Had the TSB done on the tranny, didn't fix it. They still can't explain the vibrations and they say there is nothing else they can do for the clunky trans. I tried Ford before I bought this one. They won't deal on their trucks and they're over priced, IMHO. Have two cooworkers with F-150's. One has had a few probs, the other is a nightmare. Constantly having issues with the 4-wheel system, keeps blowing what he calls the "IWE's" Another friend buys F-150's for work (he's an electrician and owns the business). He hasn't had many issues, but a few. Had a 2014 Grand Cherokee and never had an issue with it in 103,000 miles. Have had three Rams over the last 20 years, a 95 1500, a 2002 1500 and a 2004 2500 diesel (had almost 225,000 miles on it). Never a problem with any of them. Wife is currently driving a 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk with the 2.0l liter turbo engine, not a single issue with it so far. So, replace the brakes and then what? do it again in another 25,000 miles? Then there's the remaining issues they can't seem to solve.

Well, after today's fiasco, I am done with GM. My 2018 LTZ Z71 with 6.2L that I bought new 2.5 years ago, now with 28,600 miles on it just failed inspection. Reason: Inside front brake rotors and pads shot. It seems the the brakes were only applying pressure to a thin band area around the middle of the rotor. This has caused the pad to wear a groove about an inch wide in the middle of the rotor while the rusty, obviously untouched remaining areas has chewed away the outer edges of the pads. Inspector failed it for that. It;s on both front rotors and pads. The rears passed, but they too are exhibiting the same type of wear. GM obviously has a brake design or pad issue. Bad brakes was THE exact reason I did not buy a 2018 RAM as the reviews gave them poor ratings. I've never in my life had rotors and pads wear out or wear unevenly in a new vehicle, especially at less than 30,000 miles. Couple that with a clunky transmission that Chevy can't seem to fix and a very nonsmooth, vibrating ride, which they can't fix either, even after multiple wheel/tire balancing, I'm done with this thing. Trade in on this truck is more than I owe on it, so looking at 2020 Rams right now... ok, rant over.

Recently discovered this PIA TPMS thing on my 2018 (and trying the release/add air method didn't work). My 2014 Grand Cherokee relearned it all by itself, so why can't GM do it? I mean, really? Sorry, but I'm not paying for a freakin tool to reset my stupid TPMS every time I rotate tires. Just one more tidbit to add to the list of things that are starting to annoy me about this truck.

Looking at the various lifts in the 4"-4.5" range, they all seem to require either cutting out the crossmember completely, or some form of cutting it. Doesn't that weaken the heck out of the frame?

Oh, no. 7+ inches is way too much, not planning to go that high. 4 to 4.5" max.

Since the knuckle based kits kick the front wheels out and also require more negative offset on the wheels, is there anywhere I can find that will indicate how much offset can be used with a particular kit? I would like to keep the wheels/tires tucked in as close to flush as possible, even flush if that can be done without any rubbing issues. I really don't want the tires sticking out 2" if possible.

You're right. I spent most of today reading and learning about the various lifts for IFS and all the good and bad points. I've changed my tune, when I'm ready to do my lift it will be a CST or Cognito kit. A combination bracket and knuckle lift seems to currently be the best way to lift and keep all the angles good. Anything else is a compromise somewhere. I'm planning a 4" lift on 33's and 18" wheels (I want more meat between the wheel and the road surface). Also planning on the Torxe X3 series bumpers front and rear, a set of wheel-to-wheel side bars with hoop steps and a set of traction bars. Going to debadge the whole truck, but I will add a set of flat black "6.2L" emblems to the side of the hood cowl. I do have a few chrome pieces (top of side mirrors, lower window sill and 3 of the grill slats) that I'll just tape off and spray with black plasti-dip. That way, I can peel it off if I ever have to for some reason. Definitely cheaper than trying to get factory black pieces to replace them with. Just not sure what I'm going to do with the tiny chrome pieces inside the headlight (not sure if I can get inside the clear housing lens or not). If not, then I'll live with it as I'm not paying the $500+ for replacements just to get that tiny bit of chrome replaced with all black. So far, I like the Fuel Vapor wheels, just wish they came in gloss black, they're matte black only in that model, and hopefully I can get them in the right offset and backspacing to set them flush as I personally think this body style of Chevy looks better without flares with mild lifts. Now, a 7"+ lift with 12" wide wheels and big tires, then the pocket type flares look good. Either way, nothing is happening on the truck at least until the warranty is out (June of 2021), besides, the wife gets a new car here pretty soon. She wants a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Elite, but she's holding out since they didn't make them in Firecracker Red this year (the color she wanted), but according to Jeep, they're going to be available in Spitfire Orange here in a few months, so that's what she wants. She hasn't had a new vehicle in a while, so it's her turn before any money gets spent on goodies and toys for my truck. I'm just perusing, reading, learning, day dreaming until I am ready to buy everything and put it on. Besides, who knows what will be available by next summer.

Looks great, but ooof, that kit is $2,000 (not including coilovers).