The 4.3 V6 "calls for" 5W-30. Both the Camaro and Corvette "call for" 5W-30. All engines use the exact same lifters. If the "orifices were too small" for 5W-30 in an L83 truck, they'd be too small in a LV3 truck, LT1 Camaro or Corvette. Use that certificate to look up ACDELCO 12645725 and re-think your statement please.
For these trucks, it's just the transmission shifting, the same as if you manually shift. Jake brakes, or "exhaust brakes" are for diesels. They typically have no throttle so even with the fuel cut off, the engine sucks air through it and provides very little resistance--basically "freewheeling," as the power used compressing the air is mostly returned when the air pushes the piston back down, providing little net effect. A jake brake typically interrupts the cycle by releasing a portion of the air into the exhaust after compression creating a net effect--it takes energy to compress the air, but the air is not allowed to return that energy by pushing back down on the piston. That's over-simplified but why diesels need the additional system to provide much engine braking. Gas engines can provide a lot of engine braking without any such system. Since they have a throttle, when that is closed the engine provides a lot of resistance to turning. The engine is basically an air pump--think of a large vacuum cleaner that is blocked off and trying to suck large amounts of air through a pinhole. It becomes much harder to turn that pump over. Personally I love the grade braking on the 6-speed trucks (I believe it's programmed to be "less aggressive" on the 8-speeds), especially when towing. When you've got 15K headed down a long 6% grade, not having to ride the brakes or even touch them at all is fantastic and much safer than having to rely on the brakes to maintain a safe speed. Even when not towing, it's nice to not have the truck run away on you unless you hit the brakes going down hills. That's my question for those who don't like it. I can understand how some might like the added smoothness of fewer shifts and the hypermilers might like the slightly better mileage...but do you guys normally cruise at 10 MPH below the speed limit or something? If you normally cruise 0-5 MPH above the limit and you let the truck coast another 10-15 MPH faster at the bottom of every hill that's just asking for a ticket--and can raise real safety concerns when the limit is 75 or 80 MPH even when empty.
Jon A replied to Jon A's topic in 2014-2019 Engine, Driveline, & ExhaustUnfortunately I don't have enough time to work on my own truck as much as I'd like, much less work on others'. But if you pick up HP Tuners (which is good for lots of other things as well) I'd be happy to walk you through it. It's easy enough a caveman can do it. If your trans is running hotter than it used to, that suggests something changed. The thermostat might be going bad, debris may be blocking the cooler, etc. The biggest single thing you can do for trans temps is getting rid of the stock thermostat. Makes a huge difference. I'll be posting some results as soon as I have the chance.
"Knowing something" has nothing to do with it. It's about having different priorities. Reducing wear on my engine is my priority. Not getting soaked by millions of dollars in CAFE penalties is GM's priority. Do you run the stock tires on your truck? When they wear out you replace them with exactly the same tire? I sure hope so. Those are the best tires for your truck. Unless you know something GM doesn't.... Not a very logical argument, is it?
I think it's even simpler than that. Condensation, as a rule, tends to form the most on the interior surface of an enclosure. In a typical can, this is the sides, bottom (if emptly) and of course the top--which is bottom surface of the separator. You could have a block of ice in the bottom of the can and a layer of it on the top (bottom of the separator) and still have air freely flow through it. Of course, if over-full such that the filter is submerged in water this would no longer be the case so check it often. I haven't followed this thread much as I typically find the arguments against quite boring, but can add my results. My truck is parked indoors mostly so what comes out of my can is not quite pure oil, but it's certainly a high percentage. And yes, I did lose over 1/2 quart on this last run of oil--which included a couple thousand miles of towing in the mountains. I fail to see any wisdom in pouring that oil into my intake.
I've had better conversations with brick walls. "Replacement engines" come with some parts I listed as different. So no. If you're building one, same block, heads, crank, rods, pistons, valves, cam, lifters, pushrods, valvesprings, oil pump, AFM garbage, etc, so yes for all internal parts. Same part numbers. How hard is that to understand?
Yes. Exact. Same. Parts. The only difference between the 6.2 in the truck and the Corvette are the intake and exhaust manifolds, oil pan and accessory layout. The 5.3 naturally has different parts related to the displacement but there is no design difference for the parts you mentioned.
It's too bad you didn't test it before the lift. On my truck, the lift made no difference--it was so quiet you basically couldn't tell when it was in Auto mode. However after swapping to 4.11 gears, there's a fair amount of noise. I went with Yukon gears instead of GM and GM gears are reputed to be the most quiet and of course the driveshaft turns a lot faster with the new gears. Some amount of noise is normal but I do think it varies from truck to truck within a "normal range."
If he was referring to a 2002+ Bravada or Rainier with the NP126 tranfer case, then I'd be with you as they did operate in a virtually identical manor as the K2XX trucks in "auto mode" and were also called "AWD" by GM. However, the older Denalis, Escalades, etc, were a bit different. In older ones using the NV149, the center differential was a planetary gear system (much like an open rear differential) that sent a constant 38% of torque to the front wheels--even when there was no slip occurring. When slip did occur, the viscous coupling could transfer up to 100% of the torque to either end. The big difference is the K2XX trucks are only sending a small amount of torque to the front when no slip is occurring, and need quite a bit of slip before they'll send 38% to the front while the NV149 starts out sending 38% all the time making slipping in the rear much less likely in the first place. So it's not unreasonable that one could feel the difference between the two and even feel the AWD Denali has a better system for slick roads, etc. In later years (I think around 2008 or so) they changed to the Borg Warner 4485 which starts out working pretty much exactly like the NV149--a planetary gear system sending 40% of the torque to the front by default. The difference with this one is it had no viscous coupling and simply acted like a truly open diff. It relies on the truck to apply the brakes to the end that's spinning in order to transfer torque to the other end. By all counts this doesn't work nearly as well, especially in deep snow, sand, etc. But on icy/packed snow roads, etc, it's going to work very well, much the same as the NV149. While I've argued many times the Auto Mode in the K2XX trucks is way better than locked 4WD on icy or packed snowy roads, etc, and dramatically better than 2WD (even on just wet roads), and yes, even as good as some AWD systems, I do think there are some AWD systems that are better for those conditions. Of course they usually lacked the locked 4WD mode that is always much better offroad.
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