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pancepance

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About pancepance

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  1. Gone through 3 front diffs because of the lift, purchased the "optional" rear leaf spring kit to because I had the oem set that made noise. Was assured they would be silent multiple times by ted and his staff over the phone before purchasing. 2 months of use and made worse noise than the oems. Tried to utilize the "warranty" its a joke. I had to purchase another set of springs, pay the shipping for new springs, pay the shipping to send the bad springs back. Has cost me almost as much in shipping as the original springs. Not to mention it took BDS over 2.5 months to get to the point of being able to do the return process. First the "guy who handles that" was away at a wedding, then he was out sick, then he was back bud didn't handle my specific product and I needed to speak to another guy, that guy needed to go back over everything, etc. I've purchased every single item both part of the kit and suggested options that they offered for the kit and spent a ton of money and I still haven't even gotten my refund back for the defective springs which now may be the most expensive leaf springs on the planet as they have cost me over $1,000. The kit is expense and I would have expected given the high cost of the kit that everything would be dead on perfect. It wasn't . The original kit came missing parts. some parts were wrong. Its been a mess. Not to mention that when I purchased the kit no mention of the front wheels being out 1.5" from the rears or where they would be stock. I would have thought maybe that is something to mention on an advertisement but that's only me. Wasn't until I called after the installation and inquired that I was told "its how it is due to the kit. I don't recall that being mentioned in the literature or on the website. Either way, I'm trying to take it in stride because with this kit you cannot go back. The cutting and relocating of certain parts eliminates the possibility of me returning the truck to stock without buying all new front end components basically. I have dealt with lost of aftermarket companies for different vehicles. I found BDS to be mostly full of BS. They were quick to take my money but not so quick to help with their product which I found to be less than fantastic. My experience for what its worth.
  2. I have the BDS 4" kit on my truck. Really cant say any good things about it though. Has been problematic since day 1. Their "warranty" is a joke. I'd look elsewhere. I did research and thought bds was "quality" and had a good product they stood behind. Had problems from early one and trying to get anything taken care of by them has been and still is a nightmare. My experience for what its worth.
  3. I am 150% ocd when it comes to a centered steering wheel and perfect alignment. I've found that dealers especially dont take the necessary time to do an alignment properly. Your photo should not be considered "right". Becaue I'm so particular I've learned alot over the years about alignments. The issue is when the vehicle is first put on the rack the steering wheel needs to be centered and they need to shake the small amount of play out of it then set it. Most techs drive on the ramp, the wheel is "close enough" and they proceed with the alignment. If they took the time to get the steering wheel dead center before continuing with the alignment it would not be the way your photo shows Some of the newer machines suggest the wheel not be locked into place before the alignment. The older (and more typically found) machines have a device which is similar to the Club which holds the steering wheel where you want it by securing it to the brake pedal. Either way, its the techs job to make sure the wheel is where it should be prior to doing the alignment. Technically, you could have a perfect alignment and have the steering wheel off center because of where it was set when the work started. You should definitely not accept that and require them center the wheel and then do the alignment. Theres also some issue with these trucks specifically because the column shroud is not really flat and it also pitches more to one side than the other so the center of the steering wheel may look "off" to the column shroud behind it. Don't let that trick your view. Just focus on the steering wheel area where the horn cover is. The top of that is flat and should be level when the wheel is centered. It will look off to the shroud behind it because its not the same. What I do is set the steering wheel exactly where I feel Dead center should be. I use 3 pieces of pinstripe tape. I run the tape from the column to the top of the steering where when I have it where I want it. Then I use an razor knife and simply cut the strips so the wheel is able to turn. I usually do this in the parking lot when I'm dropping it off. I tell the tech to make sure the 3 strips line up exactly when he "sets" the steering wheel. That way they don't need to use their own judgment and it removes the guess work. When the alignment is done you should be able to drive in the center of a crowned road or a flat road and the strips should be almost perfectly re-matched.​
  4. You are lucky my friend. The bottom of the driver seat heat function stopped working on mine. Passenger side worked completely and driver side only the back of the seat worked for heat. My dealer told me the issue was due to the aftermarket lights I have. I argued the point and was basically told to pound salt. I took to another dealer and they didn't even look at the problem. Apparently somehow it was noted on the network and as such they called me within a few minutes after dropping it off to tell me the problem was due to aftermarket lighting and would not be repairable under warranty. I know they didn't even look cause there wasn't enough time to do so literally. F'in a'holes. I'm gonna have someone fix it myself cause I'll be dammed if I'm gonna pay a dealership to do it so they make money off of me. Sorry just venting but true story. I've had pretty much all my service issues voided due to "aftermarket" something. Guess that's the price I have to pay to have the truck how I like it. I knew the risk when I did it but never knew how crazy it would be. My tundra was lifted and had aftermarket HID's. Never once did the dealer pull the "voided warranty" card on me. They fixed everything and anything without question. That is primary reason that when an actual new tundra comes out I'll give this thing away to get one. Till then I'll just keep fixing things on my dime.
  5. As far as my issue goes I'm nowhere and things are getting even stranger. The new dealer I made an appt. for is taking the truck in Tuesday. It snowed a week ago and I tried just to make sure I wasn't insane using Auto and 4Hi. Both had significantly loud mechanical noises when engaged. Similar to a tire with deep tread and the sound it makes on a highway that increases and decreases with the speed of the vehicle. That's the closest I can describe. The heated seat is still broken the cruise control doesn't work and out of the blue today an entirely new issue. I got out of the truck and closed the door and the horn went off. Not a chirp similar to double pushing the lock button but constant. Tried each button on the remote to no avail. started the truck just stayed on. Couldn't get it off. It sounded for about 10 minutes in the driveway while I was inside online trying to look for info. Then it went off. Few minutes later it came back on. All the while I was inside. It stayed off an hour and I took a ride. 20 min into the trip on the highway it came on again. Stayed on for about 15 minutes. Its as though its possessed. I cannot figure out what triggers it. I went 45 min on the highway without a peep and when I got to my exit and came to a stop at the light it came back on and stayed on from there to my house where I was able to reach in and yank the plug to the horns. Talk about freakshow. I'm starting to really hate this truck. Talk about strange. I have have 4wd issue, heated seat, cruise control, squeaking springs and constant horn on my list.
  6. Yeah, I completely understand. I would not have an issue with the diagnosis if all the seats had an issue or some other electrical. The perplexing thing is how only the bottom of the heated seat is not functioning. The back works fine as does the passenger seat. I already decided I will simply unplug the aftermarket lights which in essence be the same as "removing" them no? If they receive power only from a dedicated hook up to the battery directly and are unplugged from the oem harness I would imagine there could be no correlation between the lights and an electrical issue causing the seats to not work. I could be wrong and may have to go a step further and install oem bulbs as well. The issue is the access. Theres limited room to get to bulb without removing a bunch of things from the front of vehicle. I'm surprised actually, at how inaccessible the oem bulbs are and how difficult it would be to replace if needed. Especially on the side of a road at night somewhere. That's another issue however I haven't given up. Going back to the drawing board as they say. I will lhappily remove the aftermarket lights which are only there because I found the oem lighting to be borderline dangerous with regards to driving at night in the rain. I also suggested to them that I will authorize the purchase and installation of new GMC leaf springs which I will pay for if the creaking does not cease when installed. I thought that was a fair offer. If new springs do not fix the issue I would pay for them. If they do, then I felt they should cover it. I know that only makes sense in my head and likely wont work but I am trying to amicably deal with this. The 4wd issue has hit a wall though. If I knew what was causing it I'd make the same offer as the springs but I don't. Only thing going for me is the 3-5" of snow forecasted tonight. I will operate the vehicle as per vehicle manual suggestions the entire time of the storm and hope that whatever is wrong fails completely. It sounds bad enough that I think it may happen. From experience I found when something is making that much noise it doesn't have much longer to go before failure.
  7. I appreciate the replies. I was thinking the exact same thing. I'm having a bad week and when I heard that today I almost fell off my chair. I noticed myself getting very standoffish with the guy on the phone. I'd have expected to be treated better than some moron who knows nothing about cars. I figured the lights/seat thing was just so out of the scope of possible that either he was right or completely f'ing with me and I was actually hoping for the first because I didn't want to think a dealership that I've bought $125k worth of vehicles from would attempt to bullshit me that bad. Totally ridiculous. I really hope I get the GMC customer satisfaction survey after this. Yes, It has a lift. 4" bds. I considered the bds spring option but wanted to try the dealer first. Guess that's the route I'm going now. Still doesn't address the 4wd. That's gonna be a problem I'm sure. Will pick up the truck and find another service place. It sucks that in this age people still have to deal with getting screwed over by service departments. That was my biggest worry when going from Toyota to GMC. I had such a good relationship with the service dept when I had Toyotas. Its nothing to do with manufacturer but its eye opening to see how the average person has to live. I'm sure there are lousy Toyota shops too but the one I used was perfect. When I had my tundras I never had an issue with service. They couldn't have been more helpful all the time. Rides, loaners, staying late to finish up cause I'm anal and wanted my truck back for a weekend. Not once did they try to give me a problem. I miss that now. As much as I enjoy the gmc I will likely go back to Toyota solely due to the service factor which is kinda sad but the truth. Maybe another dealer will do better but I doubt it.
  8. I dropped my '14 off to dealer because the driver seat bottom would not heat all winter. The upper (back) of the seat heated no problem all the time. The passenger seat bottom and back also have worked without issue all winter. The truck was also in for terrible "creaking/squeaking" from rear leaf springs and also a mechanical noise in 4wd. Truck was in for a few days with no response. The first call I received was that a part was needed to be ordered for the heated seat and when it comes in they will install. Supposedly a "software update" was performed to the 4wd system and that also was fixed. The creaking noise "unable to duplicate". So, truck goes back in a few weeks later when the part has arrived. 3 days after drop off I get a call. Apparently, the seat cannot be fixed because I have aftermarket headlights. Admittedly in keeping with all the facts, I do have HID lights and fogs. They are the standard type that plug into one side of the oem harness and operate on their own set of relays and ballasts. The install requires removing the plug from behind the headlight assembly and attaching to the aftermarket harness provided. The lights are then operated from the aftermarket equipment. I think everyone is familiar with how they work. My question is this: What do the headlights (oem or otherwise) have to do with the driver side seat bottom heater only? No other seats are affected as well as the driver side back. They all work. Is the driver seat heater attached in some way to the oem wire harness? If so, what would having that feed the HID kit have to do with the seat? All other functions of the seat work, a/c, tilt, slide, up/down etc. Just the bottom of the seat. I feel I am being given a complete load of shit but figured I would check to see if anyone was familiar with the heated seat set up with regards to how it is wired? Also, the 4wd is making more mechanical noise than ever and the response I received to that was "that is normal, they sound like that". The interesting thing is that previous to the recent call, both the service advisor and the technician who did a ride along with me acknowledged that the 4wd did not sound correct and should not be making that noise. The creaking in the rear was diagnosed as being "unable to correct due to the vehicle having an aftermarket lift". I suppose I could buy into that however when I asked if I were to purchase new springs from GMC and the noise goes away would they then refund my money as it was the specific part I replaced. They said no. Looks like I'm screwed on that. Anyway, just wondering if anyone else with HID lights was able to make their driver side heated seat bottom work? Is there a special resistor or connection that TRS didn't give me that allows the heated seat to work with their headlights? That sounds asinine to me but I'm open to suggestion.
  9. Yes, I get a noise during the switch from one position to another. My concern is a constant mechanical gear/gear type noise. Similar to a rear end as its starting to go. This noise will increase/decrease with speed and is only apparent out of 2wd. I rode in a '14 Silverado today that had no noticeable noise when operating in auto or 4hi. Compared to mine its a night and day difference. I also noticed today that when in auto if I come to a complete stop and reverse there is a clunk as a start in the other direction. Then if I stop and go the opposite direction it clunks again. Similar to the sound a bad U-joint can make when starting from a standstill. This is new and I hadn't noticed prior but it does it consistently each time. Just one time from standing start at regular pace. Not any type of power takeoff, just as if you were making a 3-point turn in a parking lot. Each time I change direction there's a clunk and then not again till I've come to a complete stop and restart motion.
  10. I am fairly familiar with 4x4 trucks having owned them for many years. This one has got me wondering though. Especially after I compared it to my '12 Yukon with a similar 2wd, auto, 4hi, 4lo selector. Theres no noticeable difference between the 2wd and auto in the Yukon. on the same roads in same conditions. The Sierra absolutely has a noticeable mechanical constant noise. I realize the transfer case would be engaged in some form or the hubs would be locked but in a situation where there would be no need for power to be applied to the front gears I would expect not to hear it as though it were in 4hi. When switched to 4hi it makes the same noise. I would expect a change in noise if using 4hi but the auto has me wondering. It almost as though the "auto" part of it is not working and its just in 4hi. Something is definitely turning constantly and making noticeable sound when doing so. It doesn't go away from auto to 4hi. Only gone in 2wd. Time to visit the dealer and play the "its supposed to sound that way" game. I looked on the lot today and see a very similar '14 for sale so at least I can have them demonstrate how it will happen in that truck I suppose. Just seemed odd to be making that much noise even for 4hi. Will update on findings as they progress. Thanks for the comments
  11. Wondering if someone can confirm of deny something for me please. When using the "auto 4wd" position of the selector if there any noticeable rotational noise difference? I am noticing that when in the auto position there is a noticeable noise happening. I would expect some noise change in the full 4wd position but in my Yukon when auto 4wd is selected there is no noticeable sound difference. I am well aware of how a 4wd system works and when to use and not use it. During the recent snows I was using the auto and realized that when its selected it sounds as though the transfer case is engaged and has a gear-gear noise. I haven't heard this on any of my other GM's with the auto option. Before I go tot the dealer I figured I would see if everyone has a noticeable noise whenever using the auto mode? Truck is a '14 gmc sierra. Thanks
  12. The post about backing up to a trailer is right on the money. When backing to trailers in other vehicles with I was able to see exactly what I needed to get hooked up the first time every time. With the new truck I've thought I was on target a couple times only to find out once I was out of the truck to hook up I was off enough to have to get back in and redo. It takes some practice to know when I'm on target with this truck and after 9 months I think I have it down. For general view its fine but I've certainly seen higher quality oem backup cams on other vehicles.
  13. Agreed 100% Compared to my '11 Tundra the camera on my '14 gmc is the difference between black and white and color televisions from 1980/2014. Without something to compare to, the '14 gmc is ok but when you have something else for comparison its night and day difference. The gmc is so low quality compared to a truck 3 years older. The Tundra backup cam picture is much clearer, shows more space and provides a better rearview overall. However, it is what it is, when buying the gmc nobody said I'd have HD quality backup camera so I'm not upset but its interesting how little things can show up as insufficient. I'd have thought simply because of the difference in years the newer truck would have an as good if not better camera. I was wrong. Its not something that would be a deal breaker but the camera in my truck compared to others I've seen is terrible. Its a good thing I can backup without needing a camera.
  14. I know this has been a topic a few times. Ive read the posts I found through search. Was curious if anyone has replaced the springs with GMC parts and if so, was the problem corrected? What I'm trying to find out basically is if I order a new set of springs from GMC for my truck based on VIN will I get a set that possibly has the same issue or if there was any actual type of change in the springs to correct the noise and as such the new springs would be updated? The dealer will not do anything through warranty because of the lift. I don't mind buying a new set as long as I know they are somehow different in some way from the ones I have. Figured maybe someone knows if there was a part number change or a TSB on this. Anything really would help. The dealer service dept. is fairly useless and I've leaved over time that things like this I usually have to correct myself. The cost isn't the issue but rather getting the right parts if in fact that is what was causing the condition. Any info would be appreciated. Otherwise I'll probably buy them and see what happens and post results. The squeak is so bad now that opt to drive my 99 Tacoma instead of the sierra any time I can to avoid the aggravation. I know, that's sad but it really is that bad.
  15. I don't have any photos but I'll try to get some. As far as installation, you need to remove most of the front pieces to get at the lights just for starters. You need to trim the back of the oem cap that covers the actual bulb inside the housing. That is how you will get the feed out for the harness. I have my relays mounted along the upper cross member above radiator. The ballasts are mounted along each side for respective lights. For such a big truck there is surprisingly little room for stuff like this. Because I have a bunch of extra things with wires it seems I'm almost out of space. I also have 2nd battery which takes away some room. If I can get some photos I'll try to post them.
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