Jump to content

ftwhite

Member
  • Content Count

    312
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

127 Excellent

1 Follower

About ftwhite

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If it was possible that one of your rear wheels lost traction, you might have felt the rear diff lock up. It throws out a little latch when speed between the left and right changes, and locks up the rear wheels. Can be abrupt.
  2. I installed the JL Stealth sub in the center console. I like it. A lot. plenty of bass for me and can play loud and shake the mirrors. My steps in upgrading the Bose system in my 2018, where I was trying to keep the factory head unit and all factory features (phone, OnStar, controls, etc): 1) upgrading the door speakers. Nice improvement, but use efficient speakers, the Bose amp is not very powerful). I also went with two way separates, and mounted the tweeter in the door sail. Can use the factory speaker wires, and the location save from having to run tweeter wire back through the door boot. Does mean mounting the cross over in the door, which need to consider keeping dry. 2) wanted more power, so used a NAVTV m650 (expensive) to add a JL Audio amp 5 channel amp to run the door speakers and make room for a sub. This kept the door chimes and phone rings to normal volume, and made the door speaker sound much better, plus added tons of clean volume. 3) Got the JL Stealth sub and used the amps sub channel. This was another big improvement. 4) last, I upgraded the dash speakers and added another 2ch amp to support. Looking back this is critical. The way the Bose system works, a lot of signal is sent to these speakers. Both for music and for environment sounds (door, phone, etc). Upgrading them with good full range or at least mid range speakers is important. it adds a ton of mid range bass (kick drum), and fills in the sound stage. The Bose seems to steer a ton of signal to these speakers. While the NAVTV and new amps improve the sound, it is still the head unit and Bose processor that determines which and what signals goes to which channel. I really like the end result. As loud as I need it, with great deep bass, and kept most of the factory features. I think I lost the Active Noise Cancelation. Not sure if this was from the sub replacement, or the NAVTV processor, but I am not sure it would still work since I changed the exhaust (headers and muffler). My understanding is it is tuned to 6.2L exhaust note at idle (lower than previous), and tries to "cancel" the low frequencies that are most "annoying". Anyway, I am not sure it still does anything and not sure how to test it. Working on the Bose does make it more challenging, but I'd probably do it again the same way, except all at once. Good luck
  3. Maybe it wasn't Stabilitrak being off that helped, but rather Traction Control being off. Stabilitrak tries to keep the truck from flipping over by detecting when the truck is in a skid (understeer/oversteer) and applies brakes to correct the direction of the skid. My experience is it works awesome at highway speeds. I am not sure what it would do when the truck is stuck and just spinning its wheels. Traction Control on the other hand tries to detect wheel spin and applies breaks to slipping wheels to direct more torque to wheels that are not spinning (assume because they have traction). However, in the snow, when traction is missing or at the edge on all wheels, it can be better to turn the system off and allow the driver control of spin with the throttle and rocking (like you said you did in 4L). 4L turns both off, but you can also turn them off with the button.
  4. It comes off when you get a windshield replaced. Looks like it wasn't installed back right. You could try to adjust it, or stop by a windshield shop and see if they have an idea. It keeps debris out mostly, not sure it needs to be water tight.
  5. My 18 came with Duratracs, I swapped to Nitro Ridge Grapplers at about 5k when I swapped wheels and lifted/leveled. I liked the looks of the Nittos better and felt they performed about same as factory. In early Dec at 48k I swapped back to Duratracs. WOW. These aftermarket ones are way better in wet and snow than the Nittos or from what I recall the factory Duratracs. Not sure why that would be, but I am super happy with them. No road noise, good highway manners, smooth ride(but I have 18"rims).
  6. $195 for a LT5 TB + $70 for the adapter plate to fit a L86 intake? Yeah, that saves some money, I guess. Assuming he is starting with the L86 intake, or upgrading to one, at least. I'll have to add headers and CAI on mine first (coming) before getting my brain wrapped on 95mm vs 91mm.
  7. I did this one: SE8223-040, 87 MM (91 MM EFF.) - $275 now, I think I got a discount/sale price. Don't recall.
  8. I got a Soler Performance TB on my L86 and I thought it added a nice improvement from stock.
  9. Update: I now have close to 49k on the truck, or about 5k since the swap. I swapped in NGK plugs (LTR5AHX 90220) and MSD wires (33829). It has been a very nice improvement. Idle and acceleration are smoother. In early Dec, I found the MSD coils (82688) on sale so installed a set of those as well. With that combination all pinging at WOT is gone, and idle is as smooth as I ever recall it being when new. I'd make these changes again, and think waiting until 40-50k+ miles make sense since the improvement seem to get me back to what I recall the new truck felt like (Idle and WOT), rather than better than the original. So it seems some of these parts just wear out sooner than the factory would like to claim. I also agree with keeping the intake and top end clean. I run Seafoam and CRC through the PCV port next to the TB on my 6.2 every oil change, and this certainly helps with idle smoothness as well.
  10. I got the ARB Tred. I used them a dozen times or so, and think they work great. When using them on hard snow/ice, they do have a tendency to become projectiles. Never owned a different brand, so not sure how they compare. I'd certainly get these again. TRED RECOVERY BOARDS (arbusa.com)
  11. Thanks for that AFM info, good to know. Yeah, I wish I hadn't lost track of where they came from. I don't lose oil that I notice on the stick. I did have a clogged oil catch can for a few months. I wonder if the darker plug came from the intake closest to the PCV hose?
  12. Decided to spend some stuck at home time to replace my spark plugs. 2018 only has 44k on it (mostly local but around 1/4 longer multi day drives), but this is my third truck with active fuel management and cylinder deactivation, so I am always suspicious of fouled plugs. Truck was running OK, but idled rougher than when new. Here's the pics. Unfortunately, when moving the plugs they got mixed up (good shop help is hard to find and he reminded me I pay him nothing ?). I believe the oil soaked darker one is from the right rear (passenger) spot (#8). New plugs and wires are in. I'll probably run them for about 5-10k and check again to see if it is persistent.
  13. In Washington, dealing with the heavier wet snow/ice we get here, 4wd is the big plus, but even with AT tires, I have gotten my Silverado 1500 stuck many times. Even on major highways. Most cases, just because of ice, but a few because of depth of snow. So I always carry traction boards. Got me unstuck every time when Auto, 4H or 4L wasn't enough to cut it and shoveling wasn't going to give me traction. Those, plus a good recovery rope are in my truck all winter. Save me and helps me save others.
  14. You might check that you seated the wires fully. Fitting them on the coil requires a bit of force until it "clicks" and seats on the post inside the coil insulator that the boot wraps on. I found this out because with vibration, if not seated fully, they tend to slide off and form a slight gap. This can cause the engine to stutter and stall at idle, or sometimes only with light load as the computer tries to sort out what's wrong. I just replaced my plugs and wires after 44k miles. I used MSD wires (33828) and NGK plugs (LTR5AHX). Runs great. You might also measure the wires to see if they are low resistance/in spec. Not a fan of the ACDelco wires. after 44k and 3 years, they were brittle, had very high resistance (in all fairness, they might have gotten worse in the effort to get them off), and are not well made IMO. Taylor and MSD are much higher quality. Plugs...ACDelco is great. I went with NGK. I'll report if I have problems, but 200 miles so far and no issues, idles like it was new. I have considered replacing the coils too, but have no good reason to do so yet, and would do it in steps to feel the difference. I did on a old Suburban when two broke, and the MSD ones were great for over 50k miles.
  15. You right. I sware mine had moved on my last trip and turned red at the bottom. I must have been seeing things.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.