Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

117 Excellent

1 Follower

About ftwhite

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
  • Gender
  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Rubbed the mud flaps for sure, plus front liner. Even with trimming, it still rubbed. Not enough to be undrivable, but noticeable. A little tread wear I think would have solved it. But I chickened out when someone said it looked like a double stuff Oreo
  2. Fuel Sledge 18x9 +1 (Thread Size: M14 x 1.5, 6x5.5(139.7) Bolt Pattern) Tires: 1st attempt (rub in reverse and full lock): 295/70r18 Nitto Ridge (34.3 x 11.6) Now (no rub): 275/70 r18 Nitto Ridge (33.2 x 10.8) Want 285/70/18 (out of stock a few years ago) I might move back to Duratrac from Goodyear though. I love the look and low road noise of the Nittos, but their winter snow, ice, and slush perf was fairly poor. My measures from ground to fender are 39 in front and 40 in rear. PS: thanks for the compliment too
  3. I added a ReadyLift 2.25" REAR BLOCK KIT as well as the Fox shocks front and back. It sits about 1" higher in back, but I carry a lot of gear regularly, so it is often level.
  4. Based on the threads, it looks like a lot but based on the specs of 0-2". I kind of assume they are set at close to max. Trying to get more preload, in my mind, is going to mess with the travel and create sprint bind potential. However, I was going to try to get .5 inch more, and adjust the left to right height a little for road crown.
  5. Yes. Like I said, I can't adjust them with the tools I have. I've tried.
  6. I installed these on my 2018 1500 crewcab LTZ. It leveled the truck. FOX 2.0 Performance Series Shocks (985-02-018-FULLSET) I also tried to adjust them to get a little more height to clear the tires, but no manual spring compressor tool was going to do this. The spring is under a lot of pressure and getting it unloaded from the adjustment screw probably requires a strut/coil over compressor (more like a press). Not used one yet, so no knowledge.
  7. You are better of tapping the signal from the head unit rather than the high output from the amps. You can do this by using something like the NavTV m650-gm. Its expensive, but addresses your needs around fader, chimes, and other non-music signals getting amplified.
  8. I have a level kit (39.5" ground to fender), and fit 33.2 x 10.8 (275/70 r18) with no rub, and only had slight rub with 34.3 x 11.6 (295/70r18). BUT - my wheel offset is +1. If you go -12 (from +24 stock), PLUS 12" wide tires, you are pushing out into the fender lip way more than me, so.... customwheeloffset.com is a great reference. I also like https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/
  9. I guess it depends on how much space you are willing to dedicate. Carry a few short 2x8 can help make a bottle jack work, or you can go all out on an offroad jack like Pro Eagle; or, I have always wanted to try out one of the exhaust air bag jacks. How much ground clearance are you finding with 33"s? I have 13" to the axle and frame with Nitto 33.2, and my bottle jack goes to 15" or so. May not quite be enough to lift the tire clear of the ground, but a 2x lumber or some plywood would get eh last 1" or 2" needed I assume. I have never had a flat on the LT tires I have used in the last 10+ years. On or off road. Knock on wood.
  10. I put my tweeters in the sail panel. Easy to get to and easy to replace if I screw up the drilling
  11. I put in the 3" Focal mid ranges (3KRX3 - Focal 3" 50W RMS). It was a tight fit, so not sure 4" will work without significant mods. To fit the 3", I just ground out the hole to just past where the indent lip is, and drilled new mounting holes. Held up for over a year now, and sounds awesome. So much better kick drums and mids.
  12. 35k miles, so I changed the transfer case fluid. Looks like the magnet has been doing its job
  13. Check your grounds. Might have ripped one lose it the hard stop/turn. These trucks act crazy when they get lose/bad grounds. Just a thought.
  14. depends. Yes, the challenge is getting all the old fluid out of not only the pan, but also the torque converter and other places that don't drain into pan directly. Also, to get really clean, you drop the pan (hard) and replace filter and clean the magnet. At dealer and quick lube, the ygenerally hook up a machine that replaces the oil by pumping in clean on on cooler hose and sucking out dirty on the other. Until its all clean. Gets most of the fluid swapped, but only the dirt that is suspended in the fluid. Not the filter, magnet, or bottom of pan. Good enough though for most cases under 150k miles. I think quick lubes are fine, but you could ask dealer to price match.
  15. The transfer case oil is a simple service: drain plug, fill plug, done. Shouldn't cost more than a cheap oil change. Transmission fluid can be checked on some. If so, you could see if there are strong signs it its burned up and needs service, or if this really is just preventive maintenance and you can go longer. My experience with GM trucks, they like transmission fluid changes. Which is unfortunate because they are not easy. Like someone above said, the first one is the most important. If you can, check price with a transmission shop too.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.