I have no experience with Vertex. I have had fox 2.0 on front and back of my 1500 3" lift for 60k+ miles. I like the on road manners a lot. Soft enough to be smooth ride, firm enough to provide control (1000x better than factory). Offroad, I have no complaints. They maybe bottomed out once hitting a dip at speed, but no big deal, and handle everything else I need. My son put Fox 2.5 on his jeep XJ (unibody and very light). He loves them, but too rough on pavement for me. Long highway trips are jolting, but bearable. Looks wise, the Fox 2.5s are much better, and his has reservoirs which are even more flex looking.
Agreed. Not normal. I just had the opposite problem. My thermostat got stuck closed, and the electric fans kept running full speed to try to keep temp at 210. Replaced thermostat, and truck runs pegged at 210 once warm.
I had a similar problem getting the kooks ypipe to connect. The ball joint just wouldn't tighten up enough to close the gap and not leak. I had a muffler shop weld on a flange joint instead. Not as flexible, but there is another flex point downstream, and no problems over 10k miles so far.
BakFlip MX4 for a short bed 2018 Chev Silverado 1500. Got it new with truck. Replaced with newer model. Works, but has some damage and can leak. All parts included. Probably can't ship, but if you pay will consider. Local pick up in Seattle area. $50.
I added a led bar to the license plate. Bright, an does help significantly with back up camera details. https://hidkitpros.com/shop/vleds-lpr-led-license-plate-back-up-reverse-light-system/
I use the NGK ruthenium on my 6.2. Work great. Can't tell difference from factory, but the wire upgrade was big. Took care of miss fires.
This is the kind of data that to me reenforces that the "make sure to only use the factory parts and factory spec'ed fluid, because the engineers always get it right" is a very blind sentiment. I am not saying aftermarket is always better, but I am convinced that the water pump I replaced has lasted longer than the original, that the Amsoil Transmission fluid that is not officially approved by GM makes the 8speed transmission much better behaved, that the 5-30w oil used in other GM v8 engines is much better protection than the 0-20w the manual calls for, that lowering the engine thermostat and removing the transmission thermostat will improve the life of both, and that adding an oil catch can will help reduce fowling and carbon build up. Even if GM claims otherwise, or didn't spec that from the factory. I only wish I had done all of this in the first 500miles and not over the 60k it took me to change it all up. Your milage may vary, but I bet mine will be longer if you stick to stock. Glad to see GM finally addressed this in the 6speed. Wonder why they don't cover the 8speed.
Bolt off, bolt on. Takes three minutes once you know the steps. No reprograming for me, even when I upgraded to a ported one. However, my truck is tuned (before replacement). I don't think that changes it, but just adding the fact.
More thoughts - change your cabin filter. I was amazed how dirty this could get just from one long road trip. Find a cheap source online, stock up on a few. I change mine 3-4times a year and don't feel its too much. Always find dirt and other junk in it. Check the age of the battery. I hate cheap batteries, so I always replace mine (with Northstar), and then every 5y. I guess with good jump packs now this is maybe overkill, but I'm that way. Because I like weekend truck projects, and been on the wrong side of failures: I don't know how long I'll go on my front hubs. My Jeep's seem to go through them around 100-120k (timkin I think). Not sure what causes GMs to wear out yet, but having had one fail on a road trip (not a quick fix with tools in the truck), I am of the persuasion for this to be preventative rather than reactive. Similar for ball Joints and steering end links. I don't really trust them past 100k, but I am not there yet (61k), but I will replace when I get there. Probably together with hubs. U-joints: I don't get how these things wear. When I replaced them on my Jeep TJ just as a high mileage project (110k), looking inside the caps, it didn't make sense how they didn't blow up. It was rusty, gritty and black inside where the needle bearing were. To me, it seemed like they should have already failed. However, I have never had one fail. Magic I guess . This is a pain to do, even with a good press. But fun none the less. Take the belt off and check the pulleys. Especially the water pump. Mine was close to failing, but I caught it (wobbly). Listen for any rattles, squeaks, or roughness. Water pump is easy, alternator too, but more expensive. Idler and tensioner are simple too and pretty inexpensive. Never done the AC, on any car, truck or jeep. I like 100k because its when you get to do the big items and trade factory stuff for higher quality parts. Again, that just how I see it. The other side of the coin is: if the factory got you this far, whey not use the same stuff? Because, I don't. Except brake rotors. GM factory rotors are indestructible. Having tried Centric, EBC, and Napa on other trucks and SUVs...I really like the GM factory.
Couple comments (opinions): GM calls for Transmission fluid every 45k for severe usage, but defines severe usage as "hilly" or "city stop and go" driving, which to me seems very common. This tells me the factory transmission fluid can wear out much sooner than the 100+k many people say they are extending theirs to. So every 30k-45k seems like a good investment to me, especially if you do it yourself where fluid cost is the only cost. I changed mine at 60k, and moved off the Mobile1/GM because my 8speed transmission has been very poorly behaved (shudders, hard shifts when cold, over heating). Better quality fluid seems to really help. My experience. Transfer Case is always being used. These trucks don't have hubs that unlock, and the transfer case doesn't stop spinning the internals even in 2w drive. If this hasn't been done on your truck yet, you'll be surprised at how much metal shavings come out on the drain magnet when you change the fluid. I'd also change this fluid 30-45k. I think there are two approaches to fluid changes: try to get every bit of usage out of the fluid you can to save money on fluids; or change fluids as often as you can afford to get every bit of usage out of the truck that you can. I haven't met anyone on this forum yet who can prove one approach is better than the other, so just pick the one you like better and ignore the advice to the contrary. Their just opinions.
Everything that is spinning in 2wd, is also spinning in 4wd (auto, 4h, 4l). The only difference is how it all connects together. Variable clutch pack in transfer case for 4auto and locked clutch in 4h/4l. So if the sound goes away in 2wd, and only happens in 4auto, then I would suspect something in the transfer case clutch pack. Could be noise caused by lift changes (angles usually) that only gets exposed by torque. So still the transfer case clutch pack not working right, but exposed by lift. I bet a good transmission/diff shop can give you a much more educated opinion on if it is something you need to fix, or just let be. I wouldn't trust a dealer's opinion only.
I had a ticking Throttle Body. Similar to your scenario (at idle, warm engine). Replaced it and it has not come back. Used it as an excuse to get a Solar TB (ported). Never did figure out what caused it.
I think it could be argued that the original black label M1 was the worst. It cause lawsuits for creating problems and failures. The second attempt by M1 seems better, but it still was the weakest part (transmission behavior) of the truck in my mind. Road trips this summer proved that out for me with severe overheating and shift problems. I need more miles on the new Amsoil to feel confident that it solved most of those issues, but I doubt I would go back to M1 fluid even if it did solve them all.
I replaced filter and fluid today. Used the transmission pump to pump most out from cooler line. sucked out some more with extractor from fill hole, and got a little more when I dropped the pan. Pan was much cleaner than expected. I have 61k on the truck. The dealer exchanged the original fluid with the updated M1 blue label stuff around 25k. This summer, on long road trips, the transmission often reported temps over 220. So I was really expecting to find most of the clutch material coating the bottom of the pan and magnets. Instead, the magnets were well coated, but the pan barely needed to be wiped. I put Amsoil back in this time. Look, if GM/Mobil1 got the fluid wrong the first time, I don't really care what they suggest the second time. The 8 speed is not a magical new technology. My opinion is, they mess with the fluid and temp to try to get more gas milage, rather than because they care about protection or lifetime wear. I think Amsoil and Redline focus on lifetime and wear, rather than gas milage. So I trust them more than GM. Just my view. I also did a thermostat delete, using a Superior Transmission kit. So far, the temps are lower (doesn't mean much since we don't have summer temps), and the shifts are every bit as good as I ever remember. In fact, the weird 1-2 cold stumble I had every morning has not returned...yet. Time will tell, but glad I did this, and it was simple with the right tools. Will probably do this every 30k going forward. PS: I cut the factory filter open. Seems more like a screen for big particles, rather than the fine filtering of a oil/air filter for example. Really course material, and not much dirt seemed caught in it. I agree these probably don't need to be replaced, but that would be a odd way to save some money on such a expensive investment.
I replaced speakers in my 2018 Bose system first. The Bose speakers are really mediocre. However the Bose amp power is weak. So i quickly looked for adding amps for doors. This gave me the biggest improvement, but I didn't like the idea of taping into wire harness because 1) the Bose system is used for environmental sounds (Ringer, door ding, seatbelt reminder) and I didn't really want those amplified, and 2) my 6.2 has a noise canceling system that uses the factory sub and woofers to cancel low RPM engine and exhaust sounds, which I heard can be amplified via a replacement sub. So I used the Nav-TV M650-GM to interface with the headunit to Bose amp communication channel and send a un-processed complete signal to the aftermarket amps. I then also had a simple way to pull a sub signal and add a second amp and sub. Love the sound now.
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