ftwhite started following Stuck on 4wd?, 4 wheel drive disengages, '16 Sierra Denali brake pad life sux...or does it? and and 7 others
I did a similar thing. I had added Fox PS 2.0 shocks front and back, which leveled the truck out. But I wanted it a little higher so I added ReadyLift blocks to the back. Started with 2.25" blocks, (because I am chicken), which only gave me 1" lift in the rear (39.5 -> 40.75 ground to fender well). Some of that comes from the wheels/tires (18s with 275/70). If you don't mind me asking: what does your truck now measure from ground to fender well, and from center hub to fender well? Does "2.5" blocks from RC mean 3.5" blocks, since it swaps out the 1" factory block? Did you like the RC quality? Readylift was good, except one block had some bulge to it which made the u-bolt hard to fit. I am just worried I am stretching out the rear Fox shocks and loosing some effectiveness. Still new to this though.
BTW, if anyone wants my factory Bose speakers (2 x dash, 2 x 6x9 front, 2 x 6.5 rear), I'll take offers that include you paying shipping and packing. Just make it worth my time :-)
I replaced all the speakers in a 2018 LTZ except the center console sub. No amp upgrade yet. Speakers are Focal, so they are efficient, but the comments here about how Bose amp is tuned to the Bose speakers is very accurate in my opinion. The sound I get now, while much improved from a full range and deeper tighter low and mid perspective, it needs tuning in a bad way that the built in factory deck eq doesn't allow. It sounds good enough that I am not in a rush to rip out the interior and get a new amp installed and pull speaker wires (this is at least a $1000 investment as you really need a Nav-TV to get factory features (chime, ringer, etc) with a aftermarket amp). But I will be moving on to a JL Audio amp soon. The dash speakers are the hardest part. The mounting holes are hard to modify, and the Bose system/amp seems to over use this center channel. I put in Focal 3krx3 mids, and they sound good, but really highlighted the need to override the Bose amp processing. I am not sure about the noise canceling. I assume the amp is still attempting it, but since NC is so frequency specific, I doubt if the Focal replacements are doing as good a job. I wonder if there is a way to retune the system, like with home theaters? That would be cool!
How did you mount the mounting board, and where did the factory amp end up? Did you use all 8 channels, bi-amp, or bridge some? I assume there are 5+1 from Bose system (Front, Rear, Center, & Sub)? Thanks for any insight. I have the Focal 2 way in front, Focal coax in rear, and a focal 3krx3 mid-range 3" driver pair for the dash/center. I am adding the NAV-TV and amp next, but only have a JL HD900/5. So I am trying to figure out how many more channels I might need before I rip into it.
I swapped the stock z71 Ranchos for FOX 2.0 front and back, and the daily driving was night and day better. The highway expansion joints, especially on the turns are now basically in complete control, rather than throwing the truck into a set of undulations that made it feel like it might lose grip. Potholes are now bumps rather than slams. Cornering has less body roll. Acceleration and hard breaking are now flatter. They perform great on the washboard forest roads, and handle off road fine; but hands down, the on road daily driving stuff is what makes it well worth the money. Wouldn't go back even if someone offered me 4x the cost. It made the truck a different truck.
I have a 2018 Silverado LTZ that came with bucket seats, so Bose 6+1 system with amp in back. I replaced all the factory speakers (doors and dash) and left the factory center console sub. Replacement speakers were Focal K2 Power 165KRC co-axle speakers in rear doors, 165KRX2 2-Way components in the front, and 3krk3 midrange 3.5" speakers in the dash. Running off the factory Bose amp right now, it definitely lost some volume, but picked up much better high frequencies and tighter low end bass, IMO. Not knocking the Bose setup, as it sounded very good. I have plans to add a JL Audio amp, along with the Nav-TV processor to keep the system sounds (phone calls, door chimes, seatbelt, etc) from being amplified; but am no longer in a hurry to do the work since the sound is fine as is with the Bose amp, and gets as loud as I use 90% of the time. The dash speakers were the most difficult to decide on. Leaving the Bose speakers, created a volume issue given they are more efficient than the Focals. So most volume came from the dash, and under-utilized the door Focals. Replacing the dash with Focal lost that over all volume (amp had to work harder), but balanced out the system better in terms of tone quality. Removing them completely, left me without a ringer for the phone or voice from the OnStar and Nav system. I am not sure using a Focal midrange driver in the dash, without a crossover, was the right call, but I am getting used to it. I think replacing the amp will make a huge difference and may force me to either change the dash speakers to full range, or add a crossover to clip. My original plan was to just replace the Sub. Glad I didn't go that route given some of the rattle reports here, and the quality of the bass I am getting from the Focals with the factory sub.
Swapped a differential cover on my 2018 with 7k, just because. There was no build up of metal shavings, just typical fine black and gray microscopic stuff on the factory magnets (one on the housing, one on the factory cover). I replaced it with a B&M 71506, because I was intrigued by the addition of load bolts to prevent deflection. Since I like to accelerate hard, I figured this would balance out some of the "wear and tear" I cause. It definitely makes fluid changes more expensive (4 quarts, instead of 2), but easier since it has a drain hole. I reused the factory gasket, but had to modify it a little to work around the new drain hole location. Just trimmed some rubber, no metal. \
It only takes me off main highways when there is less traffic on a longer route. This was a feature that was part of the SiriusXM trial subscription. Saved me from getting in a huge holiday traffic jam on Interstate 5 in Washington, by routing me last minute on a ~10 mile detour. Cool enough, that I didn't renew the music part of XM, but paid for another year of traffic and weather. I use Waze on my cell phone too for the other features it has, and while they sometime disagree on route, they are more often in agreement. Not sure why yours is having issues. Maybe bad map database info for your area?
On my 2018 with nav, there is a setting under "Route Preferences" called "Use Highways - on/off". If yours is set to "on" and it doesn't route you on highways, I'd check with the dealer if there are software updates available, or if they can reflash yours.
The phone mount has no wires. I am looking to add a USB port just for this location. Not done yet. I assume you are talking about the tweeters. I drilled a hole in the sail trim, and ran the wires down through the door. One benefit of this while using the factory Bose amp is that I didn't need to add a speaker wire though the door/body harness (I did anyway but am not using it yet. Its a PITA). The crossover is mounted in the door panel and taps off the existing door speaker wire. Let me know if that's not what you meant.
Yes, it is a phone mount. Magnetic. Anker makes them. Great quality, but they don't list it on their web site anymore. You can search "anker magnetic phone mount", or here's a store that seems to have them
Added component Focal speakers to the front, and coax to the rear doors. Still using factory Bose amp (for now), but they sound awesomely better. Still need to replace corner dash speakers. There are two of them, but I think they run from a mono center channel? Yet chimes seem to only come from the left one.....humm. Need to do some reading.
I assume you have the AirRide/Magentic ride system? On my 2012, the compressor gave out, which caused the shocks to "sink" since they use an air bladder for height. Check the compressor and the air hose connections.
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