ftwhite started following component speaker install, Time for a change, a mix of Bilstein, Eibach, and Superlift., Sierra Differentials and and 3 others
ftwhite replied to pewterliftedz's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsThanks. My setup nets about the same, maybe 3/4 inch lower. Fox PS2.0 Coilovers + 275/70r18 (33.2) I guess I'd need a 4" lift to get about where I think I want. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
ftwhite replied to pewterliftedz's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsDid you take measurement from ground to fender lip on your new setup? Curious what a 3" lift with your 34s get you.
4x4 hi or low on dry pavement with a heavy load would be very hard in a locked diff. Especially under deceleration and turning. I don't see how it would be less unless it was hard acceleration. Straight line, no turning, or awd/full time 4x4, no way towing causes issues. It protected by a clutch. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
ftwhite replied to Jakob's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsI got a set of Fox 2.0 front and rear from MRT. Great price for a great ride. Handles forest service roads awesome, even at speed. Not quite as soft as stock, but corners much better and gives way better road and ride control. Self installed. Leveled well, and no squeeks. Did need re touqueing after a couple hundred miles. The only thing I'd swap them for is a 4"CST lift. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I like the seafoam DI cleaner mainly because of the design. It has a tube that inserts between the throttle body and air box so your not running with out the MAF and getting closer to top of valves. In fact I hope someday one of the catch can guys just adds an intake port for cleaner right at the vacuum port. For tank, anything with PEA (Techron, Gumout, etc) seems to work well for me. I use Amsoil injector cleaner now.
I am not positive on the transfer case in the 2008 but if it is like the awd systems in Denalis I have read about, you basically have three open diffs. One on each axle and one in the center. The center is geared to split about 60-40 front to back. Just like any open diff, spin is your enemy because that's where all your power will go. The only way to control that spin in an open diff is brakes. So the ABS watches for it, and applys the brakes to keep that wheel from eating up all the engine power/torque. If there is hardly any traction anywhere, brakes probably stop the fronts from spinning. you basically have 2wd. Without some sort of limited slip locker in the rear, you hope both rears have at least some traction. Else, your stuck because power will end up at one spinning rear wheel. If you have a limited slip in the rear, applying some manual braking while the wheel slips can help the rear axle lock up to split the torque to both rear wheels. Only traction at the front will send power back up there. It sucks. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
No. [emoji6] I mounted mine in the door, in a cavity behind the handle. Just zip tied after trimming some. Problem is all xovers are different shape, so it is hard to define one perfect spot. The other problem is getting wires in and out of doors, so mounting in the better protected cab is much too difficult. I kept mind on the inboard side of the sound/water/whatever barrier to prevent corrosion. Edit: I'll add to that, that my tweeters are mounted in the door sails, so all speaker side wires from xover are in the door. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
With the Fox 2.0s and level, I got some full lock rubbing with 34.3 x 11.6 on +1 wheels after trimming and removing mud flaps, and no rubbing at all with 33.2 x 10.8 adding flaps back. If I could do it again, I'd either stick with some rubbing, or do a CST 4.5. But I like what I've got too. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
You might be able to "back into" a number though, because CrewCab 1500s are assembled in Mexico, where as Regular and Extended cabs are assembled in US, along with Heavy Duty. So if you can find yearly sales numbers for each of those models, and add them up, you could answer the question: are more Silverdos assembed in the US or Mexico. Canada is not listed as an assembly point in the articles I read, just engine building, and parts. Edit/Add: Looks like in 2016 there were 574,000 Silverados sold http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/chevrolet/silverado/chevrolet-silverado-sales-numbers/ And they estimate that 222,000 were made in Mexico. https://www.dallasnews.com/business/autos/2017/02/10/made-mexico-popular-us-vehicles-produced-south-border
I did a similar mod on my 2018. I had a 2012 Suburban that had this fill tube extension, so I bought that part number and added it. It took some modifications because the 2012 version had a "detent" on only one side as it twisted on, and the 2018 caps have the detents on two sides. So, I Dremel-ed in a slot on the tube for these detents to ride. That made it fit. But, since it was not very precise in locking in, it wiggled a lot, and was hard to keep the tube in place, while trying to remove the cap, which fit tight. Given the catch can location on my 2018, it made removing the tube difficult because of its angles during rotation. I sort of gave up for now. But here were my details and some pics: Bought one of these - Dorman 917-412 (tall) or Chevrolet PerformanceOil Fill Tubes 12559505 (short)
GM makes a lot of vehicles in the US: https://www.cars.com/articles/carscom-2018-american-made-index-which-cars-are-built-in-america-for-2018-1420700348293/ But maybe not the most American made vehicles (parts): https://www.cars.com/american-made-index/
But, it does seem there is a difference after all, so I stand partially corrected. Seems like the 2007 AWD system might have been a BorgWarner 44-85 tansfer case, which is described as basically a center diff: The Borg Warner 4485, is RPO NR3 transfer case it is a single speed, full-time, all wheel drive (AWD), transfer case. The transfer case provides power to axles, 40/60 torque divide, front/rear, full time through an external planetary type differential, which has two different sets of pinion gears. Both axles are constantly being driven for maximum traction in every conditions, have proven to provide slightly lower fuel mileage and more tire wear. So, with Auto mode, you get a system that changes teh amout of power sent to the fronts based on loss of traction in the rear. In the older AWD system, you just get a fixed amout of power always being applied to front and rear via what sounds like an open diff in the place of a clutch based transfer case. That's how I read it at least.
I disagree with you that 2014-2018 models with "Auto" are any different capability wise than 2002 or 2007 models with "AWD". These are marketing terms. The generall functionality of the transfer case in both implementations is the same. If you put your Silverado/Yukon/Suburban in Auto mode, it will be the same as "AWD" and provide teh same benefit. You only every need to use 2wd mode to same gas, and 4x4 mode for offroad or really poor traction scenarios. It expains it in the user manual and in the specifications of the transfer cases involved.
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