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ftwhite

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ftwhite last won the day on July 29 2021

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  • Name
    Tom
  • Location
    Redmond
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2018 Silverado Centennial 6.2L

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  1. Sounds like a great setup. Agree that for jeeps, higher creates more issues and drivability problems. My TJ came with a 3inch body lift and I added 2inch lift with springs. I want to cut the body lift in half, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Apples/Oranges = Fruit. Not my intent to be derogatory. Sorry about how I worded that.
  2. Sure. Fruit. You had mentioned 8 bolts, and I could only come up with solid axle to count 8 bolts (one on each end of four arms used to located a solid axle. So I just offered examples of adjustable lower arms used to located the wheel that had bushings. Regardless of the apple/oranges, I would think the bushing on the body side don't really care if the axle is solid or of a CV joint nature. As you point out, it needs to be torqued/tightened at ride height to maximize lifetime. I honestly had not thought of that when I did my lifts on my Silverado. So its a good point and we agree on that at least.
  3. I think we agree, but are just calling what the "assembly" is different. I think in your description, you consider the spacers part of the shock/coilover/spring. What I am saying is that they are actually part of the body and arm mounts. They just move the mounting locations. The fact you bolt them to the top of the shock/coilover first, is just a convenient installation step. They don't change the shock length, preload, or piston location at rest. Its the same. If you use coilovers and preload to adjust ride height, you are changing the relation of the spring to the shock, which changes its ride height length (lift or lower) but since the shock piston and shaft are the same, you end up just moving where they start off. So they bottom out sooner, or top out sooner. Unless you get the longer ones designed for the desired height to begin with. I think we are saying the same thing.
  4. Toyota 4Runners and Tacomas both adjust via the lower arms. My Jeep TJ also has adjustable lowers. but I agree they may not touch them on a Silverado unless you ask them to.
  5. When you add spacers, you are not extending the length of the strut/coilover. You simply move the control arms further down in their travel arch. Since the top mounting is fixed on the body, and the bottom is on the lower control arm. Hence the lift. The length of the shock and the spring is the same in this case. What changes is how much sooner the upper control arm hits the droop stop (down stop built into the frame) and how much longer it takes (or how much more room the wheel has in the wheel well) when it is fully compressed. Most of the time, when you add a lift/level/spacer/coilover, you also get an alignment. The control arm bolts (only 4 on the body side) get adjusted, so that generally addresses the bushing bind you mentioned.
  6. Snowcamo is spot on that the lift type/size makes a difference. In any case, you usually don't need to replace lowers with uppers. They can be replaced separately, and the uppers do more to correct for aligning a lift and angles. Even though there are some opinions out there that Moog has declined in quality in recent years, I doubt they would fail in one month. So, I would suspect something else. Bad alignment, suspension travel past the joint's limits (from lift or mods), damage from impacts. It's possible you got a defective replacement joint, but odds are long.
  7. it an optional mounting bracket that you might not have and need to buy: Front License Plate Bracket 23354526
  8. If the object is to keep it simple, use the ReadyLift control arms. They have a replaceable ball joint, and probably work with your spacer lift. In either case, once you get them installed, check your max droop. This is the max down travel of the tire/suspension. Jack one side of the car up at a time, and then both sides at the same time. If the UCA is NOT hitting the droop stop ("frame", but really just a welded bracket), then either the shock, or something else is stopping the down travel. Find what it is. If it's the shock, then you are good (you need to measure to figure this out). if it's the UCA hitting the coil, then your spacer is too tall. If it does hit the droop stop, then it is limiting shock travel. Might be a good thing as it might limit the UCA hitting something else further down, or the ball joint getting maxed out. However, aftermarket UCAs, ball joints, and coil overs are usually designed for more droop travel. So if you don't remove the factory droop stops, you are kind of wasting money, or at least creating an abrupt suspension limit for no reason. But again, to keep it simple, just buy the aftermarket UCAs for their improved ball joints, which you needed to do anyway, and leave the droop stop in, which limits travel and is harder on the arms, but no more so than it has already been. Note: I am still learning about suspension and how all the parts influence each other, so their maybe better advice out there, but this has worked for me on two Silverado's, one Jeep, and one 4runner. Just being transparent. I cut the droop stops off my 2018, but I have Fox 2.0 coil overs for 2" lift, after market wheels with 0 offset, and Cognito UCAs. It seems to work just fine. The coil overs are the droop limiter for mine.
  9. Replaced my hubs because I was replacing upper control arms for failed ball joints. They looked rusty and seemed to be slinging grease. NAPA fleet line are coated and come with a decent warrantee (3y/50k), so I swapped them out.
  10. I removed my bump stops. My upper ball joints were failing after 70k miles and a 2" lift/level with Fox coil overs. No spacers. The fox springs ended up breaking but at the bottom coil so they are still usable while I wait for new Fox 2.5s. My unproven suspicion is that when the suspension had a rapid down travel (driving off a curb or of rocks on trails), the UCAs hit the bump stop and caused a rapid stop. I could feel and hear these in the cab, and they happened often. These rapid stops eventually caused the spring to crack where the coil rests on itself and starts to rest on the lower spring collar. In any case, Cognito suggested that I remove the stops and that I would not need straps unless the coil overs allowed enough travel that the UCAs hit the coils, which they don't. With the new UCAs, and not having the stops there (with aftermarket coil overs), the truck handles rapid down travel much better. It is smoother and doesn't have the rapid jolt of hitting the stops. Of course, your milage (and angles) may vary.
  11. Looks awesome! I’ll look into the aluminum skid/splash. Liners are a good point. Not real good with welding and fab work yet, so I might have someone local plagiarize from your pictures some. Thanks for photos and very nicely done.
  12. I am rebuilding my front bumper because like rock beats scissors, trailer hitch beats bumper. (ie: I slid into the truck in front of me on the trail). These bumpers fold up easy by the way. First, the names they give these components are deceiving. For example, the metal/chrome insert on the lower plastic "bumper cover" (which itself doesn't cover the bumper) is called the "skid plate". I am doubtful that this piece will do anything to help with skidding against anything. Maybe some light branches and tall grasses. What I am wondering is: has anyone left the lower two plastic pieces on the front bumper off for extended periods? Or run with aftermarket bumpers that don't have these lower pieces (more pre-runner/ old truck look)? Basically, they seem to be air dams and some road debris protection of the suspension components. I like the look without them, and assume I will lose some gas milage, but do I also expose the running gear to more snow/slush/spray/bugs/rocks? does it matter, or just wash off? Also: bonus points for anyone who knows what "Underbody Brackets" (GM (23212858)) are for? Their part description says, "Helps align and secure various components" but nothing is attached and nothing seems "aligned". They're the two cups welded to the bottom of the frame rail (see picture).
  13. Right. I was thinking more the grounds the truck radio uses. That's where the interference is being heard, right? I had some handhelds a while back, and they never caused interference, but I have upgraded all my grounds since "day one" based on lots of Chevy truck experiences. I was going to order a new handheld soon, so I'll try it out when it gets here. Do you like the BTech?
  14. I recently installed a Midlands MXT575 in my 2018 Silverado with a factory head unit, but with aftermarket amps. It was a Bose system to start, so always a separate amp mounted on the rear cab wall. I tapped the ground into a post in the passenger fuse box, and used a fuse tap for the power. Broadcasting at high power (50w), I never got feedback. The antenna started out on the dash, and then moved to the cab top on a magnet mount near the rear brake light, and then to the top of the rear seat inside to get through a car wash. Maybe check your ground point?
  15. I have no experience with Vertex. I have had fox 2.0 on front and back of my 1500 3" lift for 60k+ miles. I like the on road manners a lot. Soft enough to be smooth ride, firm enough to provide control (1000x better than factory). Offroad, I have no complaints. They maybe bottomed out once hitting a dip at speed, but no big deal, and handle everything else I need. My son put Fox 2.5 on his jeep XJ (unibody and very light). He loves them, but too rough on pavement for me. Long highway trips are jolting, but bearable. Looks wise, the Fox 2.5s are much better, and his has reservoirs which are even more flex looking.
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