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About ftwhite

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  1. Original tires on my 2018 LTZ were 32.1x11.2 (285/45/r22) and the wheels were 22" +24 (9Jx22 ET24). I moved to 18x9 +1. Depending on the width of the tire mounted (I have 10.8" on now), they sit about flush at the top of the fender well.
  2. PIAA Si-Tech (silicone instead of rubber). Last long, wipe good. Quiet. But I don't drive an HD. Just a little 1500.
  3. ATF Dexron-VI for transfer case 75w85 for rear diff 75w90 front diff if its 4x4 I change mine every year to year and a half.
  4. I need to replace my front bumper, which is body color (2018 LTZ in Centennial Blue). Local body shop wants $1100+tax to do the work (parts - $500; assembly - $250; $300 paint). Part number is 84029814. I can find the part for ~$350 online, with free shipping, and then get it painted for $200-$300 locally. Or I can order the part pre-painted to match my body color, and shipped for around $560. This might be aftermarket part though. Has anyone had any experience with pre-painted to match body parts? Does the color match close enough? can it be shipped without damage?
  5. new brake pads. 2018 crewcab with 38k miles, and just got curious if I could improve braking some, so I got a new set of PowerStop brake pads and pealed off the factory originals. Turns out they are some form of Akebono EURO Ultra-Premium ceramics based on the part number (still visible). They were not worn down too much, which was a bit of a surprise, given I think I brake hard. Just got the new ones bedded. Decided not to replace rotors since they are hardly worn and not grooved. We'll see if there is much difference, but I guess I can always go back to factory given the condition.
  6. I guess I solved the crease problem in the back. I forgot I folded it over the other way a few weeks back, and when I went to take the pictures, it sat more straight and doesn't catch in the door any more.
  7. I have the GM mats, but have a center console, so my front is split, but rear are interlocking. I like them, but: - they are cut out under accelerator petal so dirt grinds into the carpet here. - the get caught in the rear doors and "fold" which becomes a permanent crease. - they weather/scratch and get a worn look. Protection is good enough though, and they fit really well.
  8. When I purchased my 2018 Silverado new from a dealer, I was offered a "warranty for the windshield" called Crystal Fusion. Is was sold as a hydrophobic coating that strengthened the glass and warrantied it from cracks. If it cracked, they would replace the windshield. Two years into ownership, I got a rock crack in the windshield, about 6inches long. Called to file a claim, they gave me a claim number and two options: I use their glass company (Safelite) and everything gets handled automatically. If I use my own glass company, I would be reimbursed. Since Safelite had messed up a replacement of my wife's car 5+ years ago, and had sent the wrong glass to replace my Suburban and couldn't reschedule for 4 weeks, I chose to use the glass company that works with several local dealers. After calling the claims department several times to get directions on how to arrange the payments, and having the glass service call them to provide part numbers, we waited for the glass to get into the dealer and set a date to do mobile service in my driveway. When he got to my home, we took a picture of the damage and called the claims department to provide. they were closed. So he proceeded to replace the glass and provide me with a invoice and receipt. Later the next week, I called claims and got an address to send all the paper work to. A week later I had to call to check status and was told coverage was declined because 1) I had not received preapproval authorization in the form of a number; and 2) we used OEM glass and the warrantee covered "OEM like glass of similar quality". I contacted the dealer and asked for a refund of the money I paid for the warrantee. I won't buy a product like this again. I am sure there is a way to get the glass replacement, but to lead me down the path they did, and then not work with me to resolve basically a technicality is unacceptable. I even suggested they only cover the cost they provide to their own glass provider, but they were firm that they didn't have to pay me anything, and I had not recourse. UPDATE: I called the dealer I bough the truck from: Karl Tyler Chevrolet in Missoula, MT. After hearing the details, they called their rep at the company and got the claim covered. Got the $700 check in the mail last week. Nothing but good things to say about Karl Tyler! Sold a product, and made it right when it didn't work out.
  9. great report. My 2018 just turned 38k. Agree on the paint. It looks great but wears bad and chips easy. I got the front wrapped, but not before a ding on the way home from the dealer. Crazy. Other negatives from me: - poor circulation of heat or AC in the back - lousy factory shocks (I replaced as soon as I could) - bed lights that turn on from the cab? come on. Bad design. - 8 speed trans is...challenged. - backup cam is too low res and don't deal with rain well. But I agree, its a good truck. I am going to see if I can turn my first 200k truck.
  10. One piece of input. I have a E2-x can with the ball valve on the bottom. Its easy to empty, but does take some coordination to hold a container and open the valve while contorting your hands to get to it. At least based on my mounting to the brake booster. Bigger deal is that every once in a while, the ball valve gets jammed up with the crap caught by the can. It sort of solidifies into a plug the consistency of wet clay. A piece of wire can open it up, but you really need to clean out the can. Had it on for about 30k now. Only cleaned it once after I wasn't getting any fluid out. Took me longer than it should have to figure it out, but once I did, I kind of like the design of the new one where the bottom screws off as its own container and no valve to clog. For me, I plan to clean it out once a year now just to prevent the clog. Very happy with how much it pulls out of the engine though.
  11. Rubbed the mud flaps for sure, plus front liner. Even with trimming, it still rubbed. Not enough to be undrivable, but noticeable. A little tread wear I think would have solved it. But I chickened out when someone said it looked like a double stuff Oreo
  12. Fuel Sledge 18x9 +1 (Thread Size: M14 x 1.5, 6x5.5(139.7) Bolt Pattern) Tires: 1st attempt (rub in reverse and full lock): 295/70r18 Nitto Ridge (34.3 x 11.6) Now (no rub): 275/70 r18 Nitto Ridge (33.2 x 10.8) Want 285/70/18 (out of stock a few years ago) I might move back to Duratrac from Goodyear though. I love the look and low road noise of the Nittos, but their winter snow, ice, and slush perf was fairly poor. My measures from ground to fender are 39 in front and 40 in rear. PS: thanks for the compliment too
  13. I added a ReadyLift 2.25" REAR BLOCK KIT as well as the Fox shocks front and back. It sits about 1" higher in back, but I carry a lot of gear regularly, so it is often level.
  14. Based on the threads, it looks like a lot but based on the specs of 0-2". I kind of assume they are set at close to max. Trying to get more preload, in my mind, is going to mess with the travel and create sprint bind potential. However, I was going to try to get .5 inch more, and adjust the left to right height a little for road crown.
  15. Yes. Like I said, I can't adjust them with the tools I have. I've tried.
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