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ftwhite

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About ftwhite

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    Enthusiast

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  • Name
    Tom
  • Location
    Seattle
  • Drives
    2018 Silverado Centennial
  1. One Tahoe, two Suburbans, and one Silverado later, I have only once had good life from a factory delco battery. When the three that died on me early (before 2 years) did so, it was a really poor times. One in a duck blind out of good cell range, one at the ski mountain parking lot, and one in the parking lot at work. I will never buy a truck again and not switch to a AGM aftermarket battery in the first 6 months. Warranties are nice to save the cost of replacement, but the hassle of not knowing when it will go out, and the additional cost and hassle, is not worth the trouble or doubt for something that $200 can fix for more that 5 years. I have never had a Optima or Northstar battery go bad on me, even when I leave lights on for hours.
  2. My guess, having been through this on two separate GM trucks, is that the problem is either on the engine/body ground side, or the middle of the ground cable, and not at the battery terminal end. But if you replace it and it works, let us all know. Good luck. I found an OEM cable on EBay for the cheapest, but your mileage may very.
  3. Oil consumption

    Thank for the reminder. Mine was indeed at the bottom of the stick.
  4. Yeah i'd agree it looks like something is in there as a spacer. I came to work this morning and found a 2018 Silverado 1500 Centennial edition in my same parking lot. Here is a shot of his strut. Ground to front fender was ~36.5"
  5. Those pictures of the top of the front strut look stock to me. Here is what the top of my stock z71 looked like. You might try to find a part number on the front strut and see if it is stock or aftermarket with a built in lift amount. The other place to look for a leveling kit is on the bottom of the front strut. There are two mounting ears that stick out from teh shock and bolt to the lower control arm. See if there is something that looks like a spacer.
  6. Similar symptoms for me on a 2012 Suburban, fix was to replace ground battery cable, grind down connection points, and lather up with dielectric grease. Problem stopped for over 60k miles. Seems water and wetness had corroded the connection points and likley the inside of the cable. They won't give me the old one, but they said it was "crunchy". Good luck. I hate electric problems.
  7. I upgraded a 2018 LTZ from the z71 Rancho to the Fox PS2.0, as soon as I got home from the first 500mile road trip. Couldn't be happier. Much better handling, bump absorption, and washboard control. Allowed me to lift the back 1" (replaced spacers), and level the front with the coil over adjustment. 8k so far and would buy a second set if I ever need to.
  8. Here is a hint from the "Get to Know your Silverado" card. I know you mentioned that you turned off the re-circ mode (fresh air), but it also implies that having the AC off will increase humidity. Which makes sense given the tight sealing of modern car cabins for noise, that even "fresh air" mode doesn't have a big hole open up for air to flow through. Given the cabin air filter, the twists and turns in the vents, and the overall poor airflow in Silverado cabins to begin with; with no-AC, I think it is fighting a losing battle with natural humidity (body, breath, etc).
  9. When my 2012 acted the same way, I found that shorting out the ground on the battery to metal on the car (I used a long screw driver), would get it cranking again. Ultimately, replacing the ground cable and grinding the grounding point fixed it for 60k+ miles until I sold it. If the screw driver trick works, assume its a fault ground and a differential charge build up over time. Good luck.
  10. I did a similar thing. I had added Fox PS 2.0 shocks front and back, which leveled the truck out. But I wanted it a little higher so I added ReadyLift blocks to the back. Started with 2.25" blocks, (because I am chicken), which only gave me 1" lift in the rear (39.5 -> 40.75 ground to fender well). Some of that comes from the wheels/tires (18s with 275/70). If you don't mind me asking: what does your truck now measure from ground to fender well, and from center hub to fender well? Does "2.5" blocks from RC mean 3.5" blocks, since it swaps out the 1" factory block? Did you like the RC quality? Readylift was good, except one block had some bulge to it which made the u-bolt hard to fit. I am just worried I am stretching out the rear Fox shocks and loosing some effectiveness. Still new to this though.
  11. BTW, if anyone wants my factory Bose speakers (2 x dash, 2 x 6x9 front, 2 x 6.5 rear), I'll take offers that include you paying shipping and packing. Just make it worth my time :-)
  12. I replaced all the speakers in a 2018 LTZ except the center console sub. No amp upgrade yet. Speakers are Focal, so they are efficient, but the comments here about how Bose amp is tuned to the Bose speakers is very accurate in my opinion. The sound I get now, while much improved from a full range and deeper tighter low and mid perspective, it needs tuning in a bad way that the built in factory deck eq doesn't allow. It sounds good enough that I am not in a rush to rip out the interior and get a new amp installed and pull speaker wires (this is at least a $1000 investment as you really need a Nav-TV to get factory features (chime, ringer, etc) with a aftermarket amp). But I will be moving on to a JL Audio amp soon. The dash speakers are the hardest part. The mounting holes are hard to modify, and the Bose system/amp seems to over use this center channel. I put in Focal 3krx3 mids, and they sound good, but really highlighted the need to override the Bose amp processing. I am not sure about the noise canceling. I assume the amp is still attempting it, but since NC is so frequency specific, I doubt if the Focal replacements are doing as good a job. I wonder if there is a way to retune the system, like with home theaters? That would be cool!
  13. How did you mount the mounting board, and where did the factory amp end up? Did you use all 8 channels, bi-amp, or bridge some? I assume there are 5+1 from Bose system (Front, Rear, Center, & Sub)? Thanks for any insight. I have the Focal 2 way in front, Focal coax in rear, and a focal 3krx3 mid-range 3" driver pair for the dash/center. I am adding the NAV-TV and amp next, but only have a JL HD900/5. So I am trying to figure out how many more channels I might need before I rip into it.
  14. Fox Shocks....how do they hold up?

    I swapped the stock z71 Ranchos for FOX 2.0 front and back, and the daily driving was night and day better. The highway expansion joints, especially on the turns are now basically in complete control, rather than throwing the truck into a set of undulations that made it feel like it might lose grip. Potholes are now bumps rather than slams. Cornering has less body roll. Acceleration and hard breaking are now flatter. They perform great on the washboard forest roads, and handle off road fine; but hands down, the on road daily driving stuff is what makes it well worth the money. Wouldn't go back even if someone offered me 4x the cost. It made the truck a different truck.
  15. I have a 2018 Silverado LTZ that came with bucket seats, so Bose 6+1 system with amp in back. I replaced all the factory speakers (doors and dash) and left the factory center console sub. Replacement speakers were Focal K2 Power 165KRC co-axle speakers in rear doors, 165KRX2 2-Way components in the front, and 3krk3 midrange 3.5" speakers in the dash. Running off the factory Bose amp right now, it definitely lost some volume, but picked up much better high frequencies and tighter low end bass, IMO. Not knocking the Bose setup, as it sounded very good. I have plans to add a JL Audio amp, along with the Nav-TV processor to keep the system sounds (phone calls, door chimes, seatbelt, etc) from being amplified; but am no longer in a hurry to do the work since the sound is fine as is with the Bose amp, and gets as loud as I use 90% of the time. The dash speakers were the most difficult to decide on. Leaving the Bose speakers, created a volume issue given they are more efficient than the Focals. So most volume came from the dash, and under-utilized the door Focals. Replacing the dash with Focal lost that over all volume (amp had to work harder), but balanced out the system better in terms of tone quality. Removing them completely, left me without a ringer for the phone or voice from the OnStar and Nav system. I am not sure using a Focal midrange driver in the dash, without a crossover, was the right call, but I am getting used to it. I think replacing the amp will make a huge difference and may force me to either change the dash speakers to full range, or add a crossover to clip. My original plan was to just replace the Sub. Glad I didn't go that route given some of the rattle reports here, and the quality of the bass I am getting from the Focals with the factory sub.
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