$150 part, that relies on grease for wear protection. Fairly simple bolt on job. 2-3hrs in the driveway. I guess for me its less a question of how many miles I can squeeze out of them, and more a question of how often should they be replaced as part of preventative maintenance. I've never had one fail before 50k (lucky me maybe, but probably strong odds). But I'll never drive them past 100k because it just seems like taking a risk you don't really need to at that cost. And I bet new bearings get better gas mileage. If you keep having hubs fail before 100k, I'd
I got the 2021 update. No big UI changes that I can tell. It now finds the new Chick-fil-a in my neighborhood. And a Subway in Detroit according to the install directions I like the built in Nav because on long road trips, I am not organized enough, or have enough foresight, to remember to download the right set of maps for when I am not in cell range (often enough). I also like it for the quick direction, when I don't want to get my phone out of my pocket and plug into the USB. Maybe with wireless Android Auto, I will be 100% phone maps, but for now, I use both.
I have to have my oil changed every 10k (min) at the Chevy dealer, because they gave me a lifetime powertrain warranty that stipulates that. The dealer offers/uses Amsoil. So maybe GM doesn't approve, or Amsoil doesn't license; but to me, the only things that matter are: 1) I like Amsoil based on research; and 2) my lifetime warranty provider approves it. GM warrantee runs out quick, and before it matters 95% of the time. Good business calculation on their part, but I also think they build high mileage capable trucks. Stick to the oil, spec, or marketing you pre
The three factory cats, plus the factory iron manifold I think are VERY effective and reducing the V8 sound. Muffler/flapper/resonator delete is loud for sure, but I agree with JoBlarc7 that headers with race cats, or no cats, really changes the V8 tone. I run with long tube headers and two racing cats, plus a Magnaflow and factory resonator, but removed the flapper. The magnaflow really changed tune when I swapped to headers. It is really "raspy/growly" at cold start, settles into a low growl idle (louder than stock, but not attention grabbing), but gets loud on hard throttle. Still not a dee
JimmyT - do you know what is making that white stipe on your belt? Also seems like it is "jumping" on the crankshaft pully. If you remove the belt you can hand check the pullies to see if any wobble, or are loose. You can also replace the belt tensioner for not too much cost. They are hit and miss how long they last. Some go quick, some are lifetime. To try an narrow it down, people usually use a stethoscope (like doctors have). They sell at most parts stores. it generally helps figure out which part of the pully system is the source of the sound. 2021SierraX31 - my "grandfather cl
The strut looks like it is mounted too far out. Either that, or that is the wrong control arm. Here is a picture of full droop (arm touching droop stops) of my factory arms with 2" level Fox coilovers. There is lots of space between arm and coils. I am not sure how adding 1-1.5" more spacer would create the contact you are seeing.
I got to mine (2018 with 48k) just before it probably would have grenaded. Was making a sound like rocks tumbling. Took the belt off and it was obvious. Didn't get it covered by warrantee because I like wrenching, but broke a bolt off trying to get it out. So the simple replacement turned into a complete disassembly of front of engine (AC, Alt, brackets). Fun, but took a while. Also got new coolant and belts. (2) 2018 Silverado water pump failure - YouTube
with Fox Shocks providing a 2" level, on my 2018 I put on 18x9 +1 wheels and used both 275/70 (33x 10.8, and 295/65 (33x 11.6) tires. Some very uncommon rubbing in certain situations, and had to pin back wheel liner, but was able to keep mud flaps (too many gravel roads not too). W/o mud flaps, I don't think they would rub at all. I am not sure if stock offset would have worked. Square wheel wells are finicky. But +1 looks better to me.
I was replacing my broken water pump (2018, 45k miles mind you...seems early for a failed baring, but you know, the factory parts are top notch ). Anyway, getting one of the bolts out, it broke off. In the housing. Tried drilling and taping, but that made a mess. So I needed a new housing. Not something they carry at Autozone or Napa. Online: $176, 7d delivery at best. Local Chevy dealer: $400 + tax Its a Sat, and my truck is not going to run without water....so... Price I am willing to pay: "lots" I am *not* glad the dealer wanted $400, but they were open on
I use one on my boat for winter storage. It gets stored in a big boat yard storage rack with no access to power. So, my options are take the battery home to a plug in tender, or leave it on the solar charger. I don't have that brand, and don't recall the brand I have, but it works just fine. Even up here in the PacificNorthwest with little sun light in the winters My only fear has been theft, but it hasn't happened so far.
Good point. So maybe OP can call one of the 'plug in' tune companies (SuperChips, Diablo, etc) and see if they have a solution. Since some of their solutions just override ECM values in "real-time" and are advertised as working on 2019+, maybe they have a config that can set the idle speed? They disable DFM/AFM that way. Or, find a dealer that is willing to set the idle speed. Or, find a non-dealer with GM approved equiptment. Just thoughts.
My experience on several GM V8s, is money is better spent on a good tune (Dyno or mail, not generic) first, exhaust second, and a CAI last, if ever. The CAI at that point will be for sound and opinion only. You'll get 95% of horse power gains with the tune, 5% with the exhaust. I assume that's why GM sells you a CAI with a tune. Its the tune that matters, but people need a physical thing they can see and understand. Once you get the tune, then the catback, then headers to make use of the cat back, then the CAI and ported TB to make the sound and air flow just a little bit extra...
Why $2000? Wouldn't it just be $300 for a HP MPVI2, and 10 credits for a 2020 Silverado 5.3/6.2? So around $800. That should unlock the ECM and allow for idle RPM programing. BTW: my 2018 6.2L with 50k idles at 500, and is so smooth I sometimes wonder if it is on at stops. If yours vibrates, I'd wonder if there is a problem (fouled spark plugs, plugged injectors, clogged air, etc).
What Messaging app do you use for SMS? Are you not getting sound notification, or not getting the "toast" pop-down from the top of the screen notification, or not getting the message at all? Can you open your SMS app on the truck's screen in AA? Does it show the new message? (it only shows messages that were received while connected for that drive) I am not sure what version of AA is available on the S10, but on my s21 it is 6.2.610914 my settings look like below, and I get a truck (Chevy MyLink) sound effect when a message arrives (like the door chime), unless I turn o
^^^^^ What TheJet07 said. It will only shoot what is stamped on the side of the barrel. No single gun can shoot all those calibers. Most rifle models come in multiple different calibers. Some shoot multiple (some .357 can shoot .38 Special), but .30-.30 doesn't interchange with anything.
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