I prefer to buy near end of model year. Seems they have at least some of the early issues worked out if not all. You also get all the added tech that wasn’t available during launch. My 2018 has been trouble free but only have 10k on it. I’d suggest you wait for the 2022 refresh. New front and rear clips and redesigned interior. Rumor is super cruise will be available as well. I’ve been watching the 2019 - 2021 models and there are some issues but nothing out of the ordinary for a new platform.
That notice has lots of gotcha’s 2016 - 2017 L83 5.3L and L86 6.2L This special coverage only applies to vehicles in these states: California, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington.
Thanks for posting the solution! This is first I’ve heard of ignition lock failure on K2xx trucks. Guessing yours was a faulty part or maybe previous owner did some questionable things to it? Would lots of crap (weight) on a key ring cause premature failure? Reminds me of pre bankrupt “old GM” and the cobalt ignition failures but that was not due to freezing up but too easy for the key to turn by itself when a heavy key ring is hanging off the ignition.
Have a 2007.5 - 2013 GMT900 and 2014 - 2018 k2xx in the family. I bought a SLT because I wanted max tow package and did NOT want magnaride complexity and failures. Both are good trucks. I’d say go for a K2xx over a GMT900. GMT900 GM really cheap on interior materials. Cracking dashboards, peeling chrome door handles, texture wearing off climate controls are some of the common cosmetic issues. Denali comes with 6.2 standard. 6.2 avail on sle lt and slt Ltz. 6.2 and AWD really kill mpg. No 4x4 low, high or 2wd in Denali awd. Some prefer awd some dislike. K2XX nearly identical frame and suspension as GMT900 More power and better mpg Thin paint Exploding rear window (recall or pull fuse for rear window defrost) Sheet metal is thin on both generations Test drive 60 - 80mph to make sure it doesn’t have the “Chevy shake” Both gens have AFM. K2xx more complex with high pressure fuel pump and vacuum pump failures on gen1 pump design. That’s all off the top of my head for now.
Thank you Jim my friend. That truck is the reason I am a GM guy. Purchased brand new and towed 6500 lbs (the max rating) the first 3 years of its life. After that it saw mostly unloaded highway miles and now has 210k on it. Original 350 engine and 4l60 trans. Also has the (F44 code) semi float 14 bolt rear axle out of the 2500 LD. Yes I am OCD about preventive maintenance. Cheers
Acdelco u7000 is the newer, updated design and will work with fuel injection if you decide to go aftermarket efi. I’m still running carb. I still need to get the relay and wire it up. Order the new pump and wiring connector I got both from rockauto. The below review says you can use a DPDT relay to make the new pump work with you single wire positive connection. “My '76 K10 does not use this valve as a direct fit part. They will say it fits, but not without effort and redesign. You will need a 6 port valve for this years truck, but this year only uses a single wire 12 volt signal to actuate the valve. This next section is for budding engineers..... This valve required +12 and ground on two pins continuously to actuate in one direction, and reverse the polarity to actuate to the opposite tank. The single wire gives you +12 or ground (+12v for the left tank, ground for the right). So, if you use at normally open DPDT relay designed for weatherproof applications, you can use this valve with the single wire output to appropriately actuate this valve and use it on the truck without tearing your whole wiring system apart to accommodate this valve design. Just epoxy the relay to the valve or mount it nearby where it's convenient. Also, be aware you'll need a connector that fits this valve, which doesn't come in the box. I understand 80's vintage trucks can use this as designed, but not mid 70's trucks.”
Octane offerings are based on altitude. In high elevation areas only 91 is offered. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1601859 https://www.vroomgirls.com/all-about-octane/ Your 6.2l truck will be just fine on 91 octane.
The new compressor may come with the correct amount of oil. It can’t come with Freon precharged because most of the “charge” of Freon is in the entire ac system not just the compressor. Compressors sometimes come with the correct amount of lubricating oil. I understand some home HVAC systems come precharged. The dealers going to want to use their equipment and Freon.
Every few months, I randomly get a Service Stabilitrak on startup. I Dismiss it and everything seems to be fine. Lately I have been seeing Service Safety restraint system, seems to happen only when I exit the vehicle or open another door during cold startup. Anyone else have this issue? Maybe a loose wiring harness or a defective one from the factory? My truck is bone stock in the electrical category. I do have the Denali cluster from WAMS. Guess I should swap my SLT cluster back in before I go to dealer? Or they probably won't care or notice? Side note - Looks like my local GMC may go under (again), No inventory and bad reviews for service and sales. If I have to take my truck in will try the local Chevrolet dealer.
I like the color matched look but I don’t mind some chrome. I think the color matched bumpers, especially in front make the truck look better. Issue with that is rock chips. My 2018 SLT 6.2 max tow has the standard chrome bumpers, door handles and trim. Going to leave it. What does bother me is the door rocker is exposed and easily gets scratched when people exit and enter truck. I’ve “reminded” my passengers to not slide their foot when exiting and entering on the paint but it still happens. Since GM put anti chip paint there, I can’t put 3m clear tape over it. My truck is white so I can get almost all of the shoe marks and scuffs out with some wax. Precious generations, doors cover most of the rocker. I added chrome on bottom to cover rock chips from being 23 years old. And it matches chrome bumper line.
Another vote for squeeze packs. Totally normal shavings.
Starts right up when cold and runs excellent all winter long and short trips around town. smooth and powerful from idle to redline. The problem is during summer after a 60+ mile highway drive, It will run great the initial drive until shutoff. When trying to restart it cranks a bit longer, fires, revs up (as usual) then dies. Have to crank awhile and manually give it throttle so it stays running. Will run slightly rough from idle to redline, cuts out if you mash the gas or even smooth gentle throttle inputs. Definitely a miss like electrical or no fuel? Once you let it cool down for at least an hour, it fires up, revs, idles fine. This was a once a year random problem only with the hard starts when warm. This year is the first time it has missed or cut out throughout the RPM range after a heat soaked hot start NO Service Engine Soon light. What do you think the problem is? Anyone experience something similar? 97 K1500 Vortec 5.7 Black Bear Tune. 210k miles original poppet spider fuel injection Fuel pump (2nd time) replaced 30k miles ago with Delphi pump along with new fuel filter New plugs, cap, rotor, wires 20k miles ago New Bosh O2 sensors (all 4) 20k miles ago New high flow catalytic converters 20k miles ago Engine grounds are clean
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