SuperOldSchool

Thanks!

These sprays will not clean the back of the plate fully - I’m talking about elbow grease and taking it off and not drowning it in fluid, but wiping got down with a rag. Too much cleaner will seep into the pivot pin and get into the inside. lucas287- have you cleaned THIS throttle body by removing it and moving the plate? You mention cleaning many over the years, but not specifically a 2015-2019. has anyone removed it, moved it to clean it up and not had any idle issues. Thanks!

Here is a thread on my 39k and 94k mile changes on my 2015 Denali. Pics inserted to show amount of wear metals both times. Enjoy https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-change-both-diffs-oil-and-transfer-case-fluid-early-on.94453/

Thanks

I’m very confused. There are tons of YouTube videos around having idle issues and having to relearn idle after cleaning ETBs. What are they doing to cause this that you are not doing? Some have no issues, others have issues and have to go through a relearn process. Just want to avoid having a problem and being stuck having to go to a shop. Thanks!

I have yet to find a good video or description for cleaning a 2015+ throttle body. For this engine/ electronic TB, has anyone personally cleaned it? I know the plate should not be moved manually, so can you turn on ignition (not running) have someone depress the accelerator and will it open for cleaning? Are folks removing them to clean it? Again, lots of info on other years (older) , but what about a 2015+ 6.2? I have 94k on my truck and think it’s probably time to see if it’s coked up. Thanks!

Extracted and replaced another 5qts today- total 13 fresh. Should be good for a while....

Bump?

Has anyone else done the 8l90 recently? Share experiences or pics of the pans?

I followed tlaw91’s procedure and a YouTube video and changed my 8l90’s filter and fluid today. I had dealer do the first time at 45k. 34k later it’s my turn. I bought a fluid extractor to suck most out of the pan first. The most time consuming step was getting the darn heat shield removed. The rest was easy. I took my time - like really slow and it took 2.5 hours. I have a scan tool (ScanGauge II) to measure fluid temp- needs to be between 95-113 degrees. Did not have to disconnect solenoids (like tlaw91 or bend the exhaust cross

So what was the issue??

2015 Yukon Denali 90k miles lots of warranty work new trans 14k #6 failed lifter new fuel injector ac condensor radiator 3 of 4 mrc shocks 2 fuel pumps GPS antenna battery / ground cable pulley tensioner headlight lens fogged and replaced several sensors tow brake/ gain switch blower fan hvac without my extended warranty , I’d be F’d. Would love to get 200k out of this, but not sure I want to foot the bill to get there if I continue to have significant issues. I

I have the surface rust spots too, with coating cracking off. WTF , can’t GM paint a frame correctly after all their years in the biz. So annoying Wouldn’t mind as much if my 2015 Denali already had not had: new trans at 14k 2 fuel pumps 3 of 4 MRC struts 2 GPS antennae new exhaust system replaced failed lifter new radiator new condensor numerous sensors fan blower motor an injector serpentine tensioner prob more, I can’t remember the whole f’ing stack of repair invoices off t

Yes, totally understood. That said, any of those syns would be fine for a 5k interval with a quality filter. BITOG has a mind numbing amount of info. I wouldn’t run it 10k necessarily, but 5k works for me.

Changed my transfer case and diffs at 39k - did this myself. Had 8 speed filter changed/ pan drop by dealer with 45k on trans. Next 45k I will do this myself now that I understand how to do it with the 8 speed (YouTube). clean fluids are always the way to go Some pics here. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-change-both-diffs-oil-and-transfer-case-fluid-early-on.94453/