SuperOldSchool

It wasn’t structurally damaged, looked worse than reality. The flaking undercoating was the messy part. I’ll just check it each spring and clean it up. just sucks GM won’t use a durable metal treatment.

My spare area was bad. Wire wheel/ brush and rattle can rustoleum primer and then paint.

AAA replaced mine as well. He did a relearn for the windows.

Had this done yesterday at dealer for my 2015. Covered under extended warranty, which will expire in about 500 miles. Seems to shift smoother than ever. Probably also due to the clean fluid. The sensor was wonky for the last say 15k miles, but not bad enough to throw codes. I had already drained and filled 8 speed on my own twice in the last 5000 miles (13 qts new fluid) then this - so the fluid is all fresh at this point. It only took 100k miles to get this thing shifting nicely !

Thanks!

These sprays will not clean the back of the plate fully - I’m talking about elbow grease and taking it off and not drowning it in fluid, but wiping got down with a rag. Too much cleaner will seep into the pivot pin and get into the inside. lucas287- have you cleaned THIS throttle body by removing it and moving the plate? You mention cleaning many over the years, but not specifically a 2015-2019. has anyone removed it, moved it to clean it up and not had any idle issues. Thanks!

Here is a thread on my 39k and 94k mile changes on my 2015 Denali. Pics inserted to show amount of wear metals both times. Enjoy https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-change-both-diffs-oil-and-transfer-case-fluid-early-on.94453/

Thanks

I’m very confused. There are tons of YouTube videos around having idle issues and having to relearn idle after cleaning ETBs. What are they doing to cause this that you are not doing? Some have no issues, others have issues and have to go through a relearn process. Just want to avoid having a problem and being stuck having to go to a shop. Thanks!

I have yet to find a good video or description for cleaning a 2015+ throttle body. For this engine/ electronic TB, has anyone personally cleaned it? I know the plate should not be moved manually, so can you turn on ignition (not running) have someone depress the accelerator and will it open for cleaning? Are folks removing them to clean it? Again, lots of info on other years (older) , but what about a 2015+ 6.2? I have 94k on my truck and think it’s probably time to see if it’s coked up. Thanks!

Extracted and replaced another 5qts today- total 13 fresh. Should be good for a while....

Bump?

Has anyone else done the 8l90 recently? Share experiences or pics of the pans?

I followed tlaw91’s procedure and a YouTube video and changed my 8l90’s filter and fluid today. I had dealer do the first time at 45k. 34k later it’s my turn. I bought a fluid extractor to suck most out of the pan first. The most time consuming step was getting the darn heat shield removed. The rest was easy. I took my time - like really slow and it took 2.5 hours. I have a scan tool (ScanGauge II) to measure fluid temp- needs to be between 95-113 degrees. Did not have to disconnect solenoids (like tlaw91 or bend the exhaust cross over. I was able to easily slide pan out by turning front side (facing front of car) towards passenger side. Filled with 8 qts and about 1/2 -3/4 qt drained out during level check. magnets were dirty, fluid was dark, didn’t smell bad . Pan was a little dirty. You can do it on the driveway, just take your time. I plan to suck out pan and refill in a few weeks again to refresh more fluid. Then going forward, suck and fill each year.

So what was the issue??