discgolf01

Your radio controls got swiped up to show more presets (even though you don't have any). Just swipe them back down. It's a little tricky, you just have to find the right part of it to put your finger on and swipe down.

Whelp, red loctite is technically supposed to be permanent, and if there is something else going on with that joint that is causing it to loosen and it happens again (like the frame or cross member deforming), you may be forced to have to cut off the bolts if you can't break the joint. Which could be a major PITA due to tool access.

Whelp, you could always try red loctite if you're feeling bold/confident. The steps GM noted to torque this bolt do indicate the bolt is a torque-to-yield bolt (initial torque set, then based on angle as final fasten), but the GM bulletin you linked to should have also said something like "you cannot reuse the original bolts once loose" or "one time use only bolts" - but it didn't which is strange. If the lock washers you were using had a larger diameter that the bolt head/nut, that would distribute the force over a larger area and you may not be getting the actual clamp load needed at the bolt head. I actually used to be an engineer at GM way back in the day and would not add any additional hardware (like star, conical, or lock washers) to a joint that didn't have them in the original design. Just a thought. You could also try nylon lock nuts on the back side, but I am not sure if there would be an interaction issue there if you used loctite contacting the nylon at the same time, something to research. As for the 110 degrees, just get the first pass torque achieved, then use a paint pen/magic marker to note start position across the bolt head and frame, then make a mark on the frame where 110 degrees would be, then go as far as you can with the torque wrench, remove it, reset it while keeping an eye on when the paint pen mark on the bolt head reaches the final 110 degree position, even if it takes 2 or 3 times pulling the wrench off and you can go as slow as you want.

Blue loctite? Also, check these bolts are not designed to be a "torque to yield" bolt - meaning when it reaches torque is actually is causing the bolt to plastically deform, you can't reuse those.

Something like these - Amazon has a ton of different sizes, or you can trim them to fit: https://www.amazon.com/Drop16-Holders-Computer-Electrical-Charging/dp/B08XVZH11H/ref=asc_df_B08XVZH11H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507563721518&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18394585813149070488&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032024&hvtargid=pla-1288046524040&psc=1

LOL You would think the higher priority for the site would be to replace the pic of a camo'd prototype on the "2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade" forum since that vehicle was released a long time ago.

Agreed. I had this same issue on my 2005 Silverado, but happened at low forward speeds like when pulling into my driveway - was a defective wheel speed sensor on one of the front wheels.

A little more digging into this and found the GM PN for the K2 SUV door strikers below....looks like the K2 SUVs use a different striker than the K2 Pickups?? That seems dumb unless the SUV version is somehow made to accept this cover plate. Wonder if all K2 SUVs get the cover plate from the factory?

Found this thread on a Camaro board and ordered a pair for my 6th gen and they look great. Before installing, I tried them on my K2, but they don't fit, was wondering if anyone here has found any that fit the K2's? Maybe they come on Escalades and someone has a GM PN? https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484340

Aren't the Canadian versions "EhT4"? Ladies and gents, I'll be here all night....

I bought a car out of state and brought it to CA. jl449 hit in on the head - dealership should do the DMV paperwork (good news: you'll probably pay the CA sales tax at the out of state dealer, I think it wasn't always this way, but is now). I had to call my dealer a few times the closer it got to the temp plates expiring (they can also email you new temp plates if the CA plates don't show up in time). If you're new to CA and pickups, you'll need the weight cert because its getting classified as a commercial truck (bad news: you pay more on the registration every year, only upside is you get to park in commercial parking zones in cities). You can get around this with a permanent bed topper installed. For the CA VIN verification doc, I HIGHLY recommend going to a 3rd party and paying to get this done unless your local DMV isn't a clown show and you have a day to kill.

Does an LT4 supercharger just bolt right up to the 5.3?

I'm in a K2 Denali. My one and only problem with the T1 interior is that its basically the same design as the K2's with a few new things or changes. I see it as GM had years to come up with a top trim interior design knowing where the luxury pickup market was headed and when it came to it, they just mailed it in and made minor improvements instead. The interior is what you see 90% of the time, a little extra money there can go a long way on that perception. Here's hoping that after they release the T1 SUVs, they bring that interior (at least the dash) over to the top trim line T1 pickups as a midcycle referesh.

Here's how screwed up it is for me: 2015 (bought new) = No active OnStar plan being paid for, but can use app's key fob functions, can send directions to in dash nav, get monthly reports. Website says I have The Basic Plan until 2020 (5 years since purchase) 2016 (bought used in 2019) = Safety and Security Plan active and being paid for. Can NOT use the key fob features, cannot send directions to in dash nav, do get monthly reports. Website says besides Safety & Security, says I have Basic Plan through late 2020 (1.5 years since purchase? weird), and Connected Access through 2024 (5 years since purchase) 2018 (bought new) = No active OnStar plan being paid for, but can use app's key fob functions, can send directions to in dash nav, do NOT get monthly reports. Website says I have The Basic Plan until 2023 (5 years since purchase) What kills me is that I can pay $$ for the safety & security package but not get key fob actions on app, but on the 2 cars I am paying nothing on, app functions are active. Seems like inconsistencies on their part. I would call but fear there is something goofed on the 2015 and 2018 status and they would figure that out and shut off the active functions.