SuperOldSchool

Now at 151k. Plan to do a fluid suck and fill (no filter) in spring. Have changed fluid at 45k, 89k, 100k (temp sensor) and 130k. At the 130k (30k on fluid), magnets were clean and fluid was nice and red, thus just going to do a quick 5-6qt refresh in a few months… I did install the Sure Cool STL010 at 130k, so that should help the fluid’s longevity a bit…wish I had put the thermostat on long ago..

Can we get this one going again with some updates? 2015 6.2 151k. Hoping to clear 200k.

Really waited long on doing this….. Cleaned it today. Zero issues with high idle or having to relearn the idle… I pulled the TB, gently opened butterfly and cleaned it out. Got a new TB gasket too. Pics in link below. Thread '2015 Yukon Denali - Cleaned throttle body today' : https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-denali-cleaned-throttle-body-today.147839/

130k on my 2015 8L90. fluid and filter changes every 45k. New temp sensor/harness at 100k.

Isn’t this a high mileage thread? Why are folks just posting their current mileage, being well under even 100k? my 2015 XL Denali has 117k on it. Trans was replaced at 14k , so it alone has about 100k on it.

It wasn’t structurally damaged, looked worse than reality. The flaking undercoating was the messy part. I’ll just check it each spring and clean it up. just sucks GM won’t use a durable metal treatment.

My spare area was bad. Wire wheel/ brush and rattle can rustoleum primer and then paint.

AAA replaced mine as well. He did a relearn for the windows.

Had this done yesterday at dealer for my 2015. Covered under extended warranty, which will expire in about 500 miles. Seems to shift smoother than ever. Probably also due to the clean fluid. The sensor was wonky for the last say 15k miles, but not bad enough to throw codes. I had already drained and filled 8 speed on my own twice in the last 5000 miles (13 qts new fluid) then this - so the fluid is all fresh at this point. It only took 100k miles to get this thing shifting nicely !

Thanks!

These sprays will not clean the back of the plate fully - I’m talking about elbow grease and taking it off and not drowning it in fluid, but wiping got down with a rag. Too much cleaner will seep into the pivot pin and get into the inside. lucas287- have you cleaned THIS throttle body by removing it and moving the plate? You mention cleaning many over the years, but not specifically a 2015-2019. has anyone removed it, moved it to clean it up and not had any idle issues. Thanks!

Here is a thread on my 39k and 94k mile changes on my 2015 Denali. Pics inserted to show amount of wear metals both times. Enjoy https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-change-both-diffs-oil-and-transfer-case-fluid-early-on.94453/

Thanks

I’m very confused. There are tons of YouTube videos around having idle issues and having to relearn idle after cleaning ETBs. What are they doing to cause this that you are not doing? Some have no issues, others have issues and have to go through a relearn process. Just want to avoid having a problem and being stuck having to go to a shop. Thanks!

I have yet to find a good video or description for cleaning a 2015+ throttle body. For this engine/ electronic TB, has anyone personally cleaned it? I know the plate should not be moved manually, so can you turn on ignition (not running) have someone depress the accelerator and will it open for cleaning? Are folks removing them to clean it? Again, lots of info on other years (older) , but what about a 2015+ 6.2? I have 94k on my truck and think it’s probably time to see if it’s coked up. Thanks!

Extracted and replaced another 5qts today- total 13 fresh. Should be good for a while....

Bump?

Has anyone else done the 8l90 recently? Share experiences or pics of the pans?

I followed tlaw91’s procedure and a YouTube video and changed my 8l90’s filter and fluid today. I had dealer do the first time at 45k. 34k later it’s my turn. I bought a fluid extractor to suck most out of the pan first. The most time consuming step was getting the darn heat shield removed. The rest was easy. I took my time - like really slow and it took 2.5 hours. I have a scan tool (ScanGauge II) to measure fluid temp- needs to be between 95-113 degrees. Did not have to disconnect solenoids (like tlaw91 or bend the exhaust cross over. I was able to easily slide pan out by turning front side (facing front of car) towards passenger side. Filled with 8 qts and about 1/2 -3/4 qt drained out during level check. magnets were dirty, fluid was dark, didn’t smell bad . Pan was a little dirty. You can do it on the driveway, just take your time. I plan to suck out pan and refill in a few weeks again to refresh more fluid. Then going forward, suck and fill each year.

So what was the issue??

2015 Yukon Denali 90k miles lots of warranty work new trans 14k #6 failed lifter new fuel injector ac condensor radiator 3 of 4 mrc shocks 2 fuel pumps GPS antenna battery / ground cable pulley tensioner headlight lens fogged and replaced several sensors tow brake/ gain switch blower fan hvac without my extended warranty , I’d be F’d. Would love to get 200k out of this, but not sure I want to foot the bill to get there if I continue to have significant issues. I maintain all of my vehicles meticulously, so I expect better. Lots of cheaply made components that fail way too early. Oil changes 5k full syn Diff, transfer case Trans fluids changed at 40k- with syn fluids coolant and brake fluids flushed.

I have the surface rust spots too, with coating cracking off. WTF , can’t GM paint a frame correctly after all their years in the biz. So annoying Wouldn’t mind as much if my 2015 Denali already had not had: new trans at 14k 2 fuel pumps 3 of 4 MRC struts 2 GPS antennae new exhaust system replaced failed lifter new radiator new condensor numerous sensors fan blower motor an injector serpentine tensioner prob more, I can’t remember the whole f’ing stack of repair invoices off top of my head.

Yes, totally understood. That said, any of those syns would be fine for a 5k interval with a quality filter. BITOG has a mind numbing amount of info. I wouldn’t run it 10k necessarily, but 5k works for me.

Changed my transfer case and diffs at 39k - did this myself. Had 8 speed filter changed/ pan drop by dealer with 45k on trans. Next 45k I will do this myself now that I understand how to do it with the 8 speed (YouTube). clean fluids are always the way to go Some pics here. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-change-both-diffs-oil-and-transfer-case-fluid-early-on.94453/

Harvest King 0w20 synthetic with a good filter (K&N, Fram UG, Purolator Boss) every 5k. 5 qts is 14.99, last batch was on Sale 11.99. Can’t beat it. I was using Pennzoil Platinum for a while but found oil pressure drops after like 3k- guessing it thins out. 90k miles. No oil usage yet. Clean oil with a decent filter is key. Not sure brand matters as much as people think.