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Found 144 results

  1. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  2. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  3. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  4. I have a 2003 Yukon XL 2500. The radio started to cut in and out, and then soon gets to the point where there is no audio at all. No chimes and no radio. However the rear radio headphones still work. Thus I thought this was the bose amp and changed the amp. The new amp made no difference until I pulled both fuses and checked everything. I put the fuses back in and I had sound. Great. 2 hours later on the new amp the radio started to cut out again and then I had no sound. No chimes, no radio. I can restore the radio sound by pulling the radio fuse for 5 minutes, plugging it back in and all audio is restored. This does not last long and soon I will be back to no audio at all. It is not the amp as a brand new amp does the exact same thing. So how do I figure out what is wrong? I don't want to start replacing things as that did not go well with the amp. I have read that maybe there is a bad speaker, but since the speakers plug into the amp a bad speaker should only impact the amp. Also since the audio starts to cut in and out many times (longer each time) until there is no audio at all I can't imagine a bad speaker causing that. Once the speaker is detected it should cut the audio off until reset. Only pulling the radio fuse, waiting and then putting it back, will restore the audio. Is the radio bad? I pulled the codes and there seems to be nothing for the radio once the audio is lost. Thanks for any help!
  5. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  6. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  7. I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed?
  8. Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
  9. Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
  10. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  11. Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008. I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming... good or bad experiences? Thanks in advance for the discussion.
  12. I've got a 2009 Yukon that has some random LED headlights in it. I really like the look of the led's but they are garbage as far as visibility. Anyone have a bulb combo that seems to work well with the stock Yukon headlight assembly?
  13. Earlier today I happened to see a GMC Yukon at the local dealership today which I believed was a 2020 model. It had a brand new grille design that I had not seen previously. I'm not sure if this is only for the SLT trim or if it's for both SLE and SLT? Sitting right beside it were two Yukons with the grilles that I had been accustomed to seeing from 2015-2019. Who knows, they could have been 2019s although unlikely as it looked like they were new deliveries. 2015-2019 SLE/SLT Grille: https://www.gmc.com/content/dam/gmc/na/us/english/index/shared-assets/jellybeans/2020/yukon/yukon-sle/2020-gmc-yukon-satin-steel-metallic.jpg?imwidth=960 New grille for 2020? https://www.markquartmotors.com/inventoryphotos/450/1gks2bkcxlr145363/ip/3.jpg?height=400 2015-2020 Denali Grille: https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2019/09/27/10/23/2020_gmc_yukon-pic-8169891733033103272-1600x1200.png
  14. Hey, so I recently changed the distributor in my 99 yukon 5.7l, and I am having a super hard time getting the cam retard back to zero. It is currently off by 30°. I have tried moving it a tooth forward and a tooth backwards and both situations result in a no-start, although at 30° it starts and runs daily but I'm pretty sure my mpg has tanked. I have reinstalled this thing like 4 times now trying to see if I can get any closer and its just not happening and I'm getting pretty frustrated. Is there something I'm missing or forgetting? Could it be two or 3 teeth I need to skip? I tried googling but couldn't find the number of degrees each tooth consists of. Also I'm definitely reading the cam retard at above 1k rpm, and I've tried just spinning the distributor clockwise but it cant go any further without hitting the plenum. Everything I read says this is so easy as long as you have a scanner, but theres something I'm not doing right lol. Also is there any way to try out different teeth without having to reset tdc to get it back? Thank you for your time! Sorry if I rambled!
  15. I just recently purchased a 2017 GMC Yukon XL Denali, with the 6.2L engine. I noticed the stock low beams are not that bright, as well as that sometimes they produce a white output and others become yellow. I had both of my headlights with assembly’s replaced under warranty and still is occurring. Has anyone ever experienced this issue, or been able to noticeably see their headlights change from white to yellow?
  16. I need help figuring this one out, I just bought this Yukon XL (100k) and drove it home (about two hours of driving) and I had a fluid puddle on my driveway the next day. So I checked it out and the only spot where I could find any “leakage” was from the drivers side motor mount. There were no other apparent fluid leaks or spills from anywhere else. I took it in to have it looked and and the liquid had dried and only left minor stains. He thought I was crazy at this point. I asked the tech if he could check the parts listing to see if it was fluid filled. He came back with a engine mount checklist which states to check for fluid leaks from the mount if equipped with GLYCOL(i.e. coolant) but also said he doesn’t see any signs of a leak even after I showed him pictures and he pulled up the inspection checklist. I need proof that the mount needs replaced because the fluid has leaked out. GLYCOL dries to show very little sign of leakage. How much fluid could he expect the mount to hold to keep leaking? How can I know for sure that this mount is the fluid filled kind or not? I took pictures of all of this.
  17. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  18. This wireless charger has me stumped. Can anyone help? I bought the new charger from a 2018. Installed it and got nothing. During trouble shooting I found green and purple/yellow wire cut by the console lid....repaired it and still nothing. I’m receiving over 13v on the green wire....not purple/ yellow wire. I even tried reversing purple and geeen wire on the truck and only received the lighting bolt on the radio but phone didn’t charge. When I did this the 13v dropped to 2v. I tried to hook the charger to a small 12v battery and it powered up and phone charged when power was applied to green and black wire. I read several post where this new charger worked plug and play but I wondering if pinout is different configuration on 2015 Yukon for some reason?
  19. Is it possible to put OEM DENALI HID on Yukon SLT?
  20. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  21. The rattle we had was coming from headliner behind the passenger seat, and was typically worse at medium to highway speeds. It is noticeably louder with the sunroof cover slid back(open). My fix: Open rear passenger door and stand on running board to access the roof rack. If you wiggle the crossbar of the rack it has the slightest of slack, but just enough to make a clanking sound. I wedged some thin flexible magnet pieces(no the rack isn't magnetic, just what I had handy) in between the crossbar and the roof brace in front of and back of the bar(see pic). Viola...no noise. If these come loose I will come up with something more robust(maybe some two part epoxy). I'm not familiar with the inside of the 2015-2019 Suburban, Tahoe, and regular Yukon's, but the ultra quiet cabin of the Denali amplifies ANY little rattle or strange noise. I was used to the road noise and rattles of my 2007 Suburban(288K). They went kind of hand in hand. This one will take some getting used to. I know, suck it up buttercup. Now...back to the "other" issue... front end clank, clank, clank-clank after medium to hard braking, but occasionally during acceleration, and less occasionally steady speeds. No specific rhythm, almost like it's swinging in the wind, and then it suddenly stops after a few seconds. Please help if you know anything! I WILL fix this too! There is a video from another in a different thread on here that has the EXACT same issue/sound as mine.
  22. Hello, I was thinking of purchasing a 2016 Yukon Denali, but after reading a few forums on here it seems like there have been a few issues with the 2015 model ( buffering noise and vibration). Have these problems been sorted out by GM in the 2016 model? If not is the problem big enough to avoid purchasing a Yukon Denali? Thanks
  23. I'm new to the group and I hope I'm doing this correctly. I want to buy a used GMC Yukon, but I would definitely want to disable the AFM before any problems occurred. Does anybody know what this would entail and what the approximate cost would be? Any comments would be greatly appreciated , Thank you(or would this be a moot point because if I buy a used Yukon the damage could already be done?)
  24. Hello all, Thank you in advanced for checking this post out! I have a 2018 GMC Yukon 6.2L L86 10 Speed. Under harder acceleration there is a rattle noise that appears under the hood passenger side. This noise can be played around with by the amount of throttle you give or take. Letting off the throttle just a hair noise goes away, accel little more and comes back. While you hear the noise and keep same throttle position it will go away shortly as if the load on the motor isn't as high. Sounds like it could be the high pressure fuel pump engaging. Has anyone herd this, or know a little bit more incite on this topic what it could be? I have not taken it in for service, does not sound threatening, just noticeable. Thank you, Blake
  25. First time poster, long time GMC customer. 2015 Yukon Denali XL 63,000 miles 4wd. Got in the vehicle to take my family out to dinner on July 10th, 2017. Less than 1/2 a mile after driving I noticed the idle wasn't right and felt a slight shudder. I slowed down and looked for a place to pull over. About 10 seconds later the truck stopped running and I pulled over to the side of the road. There was no warning lights on and all gauges showed the correct temps and readings. I tried to start the truck and it turned over but didn't start. After that initial attempt the starter would not turn the engine over. My first thought maybe the battery was dead and that caused the truck to stop running. Hooked up jumpers and no difference. Had the vehicle towed to our local dealer Watson Chevrolet in Tucson. After the dealer removed the pulleys and tried to turn the block by hand they called to inform me that my Yukon had overheated and seized the block. I was shocked to say the least! Apparently there has been a light leak in the radiator that was not noticed by me or their service department. The dealer is taking the stance that since the radiator was not covered by power train the repairs to the motor will not be covered. My stance is that the vehicle never had a low coolant warning or even showed a change in the engine temp that was out of line. The temperature gauge read normal the entire time and no warning lights or messages ever came on. 5 weeks prior I had the truck into the same dealer trying to resolve a hard shift problem. They replaced the valve body on the transmission and the temperature sensor for the transmission. Apparently the transmission sensor was not displaying the correct temp and needed to be replaced. The dealer wants me to authorize a tear down to see what the cause was. It is apparent that the radiator leak was the cause of the overheating but I had no indication that is was low on fluid or that it was overheating. The dealer can't tell me if they find that the warning system or gauges were not functioning properly that the warranty will cover the rebuild of the motor. I am looking for advice on how to proceed.
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