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Found 130 results

  1. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  2. Hope this helps anyone that runs into this. My original battery died and I changed it out yesterday. After the change my AC was not operating correctly. I surfed the forums and found all sorts of fixes like pulling fuses and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. None worked. I then notice that the outside temp on the intellilink screen is showing 36 degrees. Figuring it reset to Celsius (I’m in Texas so that is a logical centigrade reading for us) I checked settings and found it was set to F. Buried in a forum about calibrating the temp gauge I found a GM service bulletin that says after a battery dies you need to drive the car at least 5 minutes over 20 mph for the temp gauge to calibrate; or let the car sit off for 8 hours. I drove the car down the highway and this worked like a charm. When the outside temp is showing 36 degrees, it is basically telling the ac compressor not to come on and sending heat to the car. Not a lot of fun in 95+ heat in Texas. On a side note why why is there no documentation that this is the norm? I called the dealer to have a girl laugh at me and tell me the car “has” to have a lot of things reset after a battery swap...and they want $155. Which was basically corrected with 5 minutes of driving.
  3. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
  4. Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job. Truck has 81,XXX miles on it. Factory pads are about gone. The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad. It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it. 9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit. All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration. So for $260, worth the old college try. Parts list en route are.... -Yukon Axle Shafts -ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides) -ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides) -GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. ) -Raybestos Police package rotors. I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec. Tolerances in general are much tighter. -Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement. I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero. Yes, zero. So i'm going through the axle my way.
  5. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  6. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  7. Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
  8. 2001 yukon xl -Brakes to the floor, vibration under drivers side. Wheel shakes -see video hard to describe. any help would be appreciated. A5DC282A-7FA0-441F-B13D-28D53E1CFB1B.MOV
  9. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  10. Alright gang, I've got an '09 Yukon Denali that was having cruise control issues from time to time. I replaced the brake light switch which seemed to solve that issue but shortly after I had the service stabilitrak/traction control message display come up as well as a glowing ABS light. The switch was replaced a couple of weeks back. The traction control/stabilitrak message has illuminated maybe 5 or 6 times since and only comes on when I have stopped at a light or a stop sign. I know this may be a wheel speed sensor issue but the fact it showed up shortly after changing the brake light switch has be scratching my head. Anyone have a stabilitrak cure? Thanks for any input.
  11. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  12. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  13. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  14. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  15. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  16. Hi I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling
  17. Hi I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling
  18. Have a leak from the back of the motor that is getting worse. I collected some of it today and it's anti-freeze. I was thinking it was from near the front of the engine but parked it in the driveway and the puddle is near the back. I do have to add coolant; maybe went through a gallon over the last 12/18 months. It also does use oil, maybe a quart over 3000 miles. I thought it was also leaking oil but this coolant did not appear to have any oil with it. It's an 02 with 240K on it and I've had it for about 4 years. I've never really worked on an LS motor so advice would be great.
  19. Recently bought a 2015 GMC Yukon Denali and the GPS is showing me in a different state. How can I Calibrate the GPS. I am trying to find it in the manuals but am having trouble. Thank you.
  20. Hi all, 15 Yukon SLT (94000 miles) here So I had a misfire code P300 and engine light blinking late December 18. Done a tune up (replaced all sparks and wires) and everything was fine until a few days ago. Didn't feel any lose of power, vibrations and etc. Got another misfire code, this time P0305 (cylinder #5) a few weeks back. Mechanic looked into it and couldn't reproduce. Had an engine carbon clean up. Again no lose of power, vibration poor fuel economy and so on. Couple of days ago got another misfire P0305. Called the mechanics and he suggested a compression test. Not sure if needed as no other signs are apparent. He also start speaking (worst case) about taking the cylinder out to be inspected and replacing AFM lifters. I've looked into mode 6 on my OBD scanner as saw that cylinders 1,3,5,7 all have misfires, though below the threshold so no codes or lights. Cylinder #5 had count of 78 misfires and the rest (1,3,7) around the 1-5 (thats after a 2hr drive) What I found weird is that the AFM cylinders (2,4,6,8) had no misfires. Aren't those the ones with the lifters? I've replaced the coil of cylinder 1 with 5 and got the same results (higher counts of misfires on 5) so don't think that is the problem. Anyone encounter the same issue? How was it solve? Any suggestions for self diagnostics before its heading back to the a shop? Thanks
  21. I just recently purchased a 2017 GMC Yukon XL Denali, with the 6.2L engine. I noticed the stock low beams are not that bright, as well as that sometimes they produce a white output and others become yellow. I had both of my headlights with assembly’s replaced under warranty and still is occurring. Has anyone ever experienced this issue, or been able to noticeably see their headlights change from white to yellow?
  22. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  23. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  24. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  25. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali, it is lifted with 35’s, the lift has about 1500 miles on it now, I have had no issues up until recent. The issue is I’m getting a pretty loud metal on metal clacking or tapping noise from some where in the front diff or transmission. It is most predominate from speeds 30mph down to about 10mph. The noise will start when I let off the gas while driving to coast or slow down, it will do it intermittently at higher speeds but not near as much but it is the same issue for sure. It seems like it starts after I let off the gas and the rpms drop down to around 1200 or less in a coast. The noise will start off not as loud and progressively get louder if I coast without touching the gas. As soon as i touch the gas the noise will go away, it does not do this in manual mode only in automatic. I have had the lift looked over multiple times and now I don’t think it has anything to do with it other than the additional Strain may have caused and already underlying problem to become more profound. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated!
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