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Found 136 results

  1. I need help figuring this one out, I just bought this Yukon XL (100k) and drove it home (about two hours of driving) and I had a fluid puddle on my driveway the next day. So I checked it out and the only spot where I could find any “leakage” was from the drivers side motor mount. There were no other apparent fluid leaks or spills from anywhere else. I took it in to have it looked and and the liquid had dried and only left minor stains. He thought I was crazy at this point. I asked the tech if he could check the parts listing to see if it was fluid filled. He came back with a engine mount checklist which states to check for fluid leaks from the mount if equipped with GLYCOL(i.e. coolant) but also said he doesn’t see any signs of a leak even after I showed him pictures and he pulled up the inspection checklist. I need proof that the mount needs replaced because the fluid has leaked out. GLYCOL dries to show very little sign of leakage. How much fluid could he expect the mount to hold to keep leaking? How can I know for sure that this mount is the fluid filled kind or not? I took pictures of all of this.
  2. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  3. This wireless charger has me stumped. Can anyone help? I bought the new charger from a 2018. Installed it and got nothing. During trouble shooting I found green and purple/yellow wire cut by the console lid....repaired it and still nothing. I’m receiving over 13v on the green wire....not purple/ yellow wire. I even tried reversing purple and geeen wire on the truck and only received the lighting bolt on the radio but phone didn’t charge. When I did this the 13v dropped to 2v. I tried to hook the charger to a small 12v battery and it powered up and phone charged when power was applied to green and black wire. I read several post where this new charger worked plug and play but I wondering if pinout is different configuration on 2015 Yukon for some reason?
  4. Is it possible to put OEM DENALI HID on Yukon SLT?
  5. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  6. The rattle we had was coming from headliner behind the passenger seat, and was typically worse at medium to highway speeds. It is noticeably louder with the sunroof cover slid back(open). My fix: Open rear passenger door and stand on running board to access the roof rack. If you wiggle the crossbar of the rack it has the slightest of slack, but just enough to make a clanking sound. I wedged some thin flexible magnet pieces(no the rack isn't magnetic, just what I had handy) in between the crossbar and the roof brace in front of and back of the bar(see pic). Viola...no noise. If these come loose I will come up with something more robust(maybe some two part epoxy). I'm not familiar with the inside of the 2015-2019 Suburban, Tahoe, and regular Yukon's, but the ultra quiet cabin of the Denali amplifies ANY little rattle or strange noise. I was used to the road noise and rattles of my 2007 Suburban(288K). They went kind of hand in hand. This one will take some getting used to. I know, suck it up buttercup. Now...back to the "other" issue... front end clank, clank, clank-clank after medium to hard braking, but occasionally during acceleration, and less occasionally steady speeds. No specific rhythm, almost like it's swinging in the wind, and then it suddenly stops after a few seconds. Please help if you know anything! I WILL fix this too! There is a video from another in a different thread on here that has the EXACT same issue/sound as mine.
  7. Hello, I was thinking of purchasing a 2016 Yukon Denali, but after reading a few forums on here it seems like there have been a few issues with the 2015 model ( buffering noise and vibration). Have these problems been sorted out by GM in the 2016 model? If not is the problem big enough to avoid purchasing a Yukon Denali? Thanks
  8. I'm new to the group and I hope I'm doing this correctly. I want to buy a used GMC Yukon, but I would definitely want to disable the AFM before any problems occurred. Does anybody know what this would entail and what the approximate cost would be? Any comments would be greatly appreciated , Thank you(or would this be a moot point because if I buy a used Yukon the damage could already be done?)
  9. Hello all, Thank you in advanced for checking this post out! I have a 2018 GMC Yukon 6.2L L86 10 Speed. Under harder acceleration there is a rattle noise that appears under the hood passenger side. This noise can be played around with by the amount of throttle you give or take. Letting off the throttle just a hair noise goes away, accel little more and comes back. While you hear the noise and keep same throttle position it will go away shortly as if the load on the motor isn't as high. Sounds like it could be the high pressure fuel pump engaging. Has anyone herd this, or know a little bit more incite on this topic what it could be? I have not taken it in for service, does not sound threatening, just noticeable. Thank you, Blake
  10. First time poster, long time GMC customer. 2015 Yukon Denali XL 63,000 miles 4wd. Got in the vehicle to take my family out to dinner on July 10th, 2017. Less than 1/2 a mile after driving I noticed the idle wasn't right and felt a slight shudder. I slowed down and looked for a place to pull over. About 10 seconds later the truck stopped running and I pulled over to the side of the road. There was no warning lights on and all gauges showed the correct temps and readings. I tried to start the truck and it turned over but didn't start. After that initial attempt the starter would not turn the engine over. My first thought maybe the battery was dead and that caused the truck to stop running. Hooked up jumpers and no difference. Had the vehicle towed to our local dealer Watson Chevrolet in Tucson. After the dealer removed the pulleys and tried to turn the block by hand they called to inform me that my Yukon had overheated and seized the block. I was shocked to say the least! Apparently there has been a light leak in the radiator that was not noticed by me or their service department. The dealer is taking the stance that since the radiator was not covered by power train the repairs to the motor will not be covered. My stance is that the vehicle never had a low coolant warning or even showed a change in the engine temp that was out of line. The temperature gauge read normal the entire time and no warning lights or messages ever came on. 5 weeks prior I had the truck into the same dealer trying to resolve a hard shift problem. They replaced the valve body on the transmission and the temperature sensor for the transmission. Apparently the transmission sensor was not displaying the correct temp and needed to be replaced. The dealer wants me to authorize a tear down to see what the cause was. It is apparent that the radiator leak was the cause of the overheating but I had no indication that is was low on fluid or that it was overheating. The dealer can't tell me if they find that the warning system or gauges were not functioning properly that the warranty will cover the rebuild of the motor. I am looking for advice on how to proceed.
  11. I've got a 2009 Yukon that has some random LED headlights in it. I really like the look of the led's but they are garbage as far as visibility. Anyone have a bulb combo that seems to work well with the stock Yukon headlight assembly?
  12. Hi! In April, my Yukon was throwing codes P0172 P0175. Local GMC dealer in Louisiana "fixed", by replacing some sensor. Traveled to PA, codes came back on. Local GMC dealer fixed by replacing BCM, body control module in June. Now my check engine light is back on! Power train Warranty ran out 2-3 weeks ago. Also had extended warranty, which also ran out at 5 years, which was Sept. Code onstar says its throwing now is P0430, all of the codes from I can find are related to exhaust system. My question is are these 3 codes related??? Could this be something they will have to fix under warranty, given it's related and has been worked on several times? If not, what does this mean? Catalytic converter bad? Help! My husband is being laid off in the next week. So, obviously finances are tight. Yes, obviously itll be fixed regardless, just trying to plan and cut back elsewhere if needed. This has been a great vehicle! As luck has it, trouble starts when warranty runs out. Really wanting to trade, but waiting on new body Adding mileage if matters, 91K
  13. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  14. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  15. Hope this helps anyone that runs into this. My original battery died and I changed it out yesterday. After the change my AC was not operating correctly. I surfed the forums and found all sorts of fixes like pulling fuses and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. None worked. I then notice that the outside temp on the intellilink screen is showing 36 degrees. Figuring it reset to Celsius (I’m in Texas so that is a logical centigrade reading for us) I checked settings and found it was set to F. Buried in a forum about calibrating the temp gauge I found a GM service bulletin that says after a battery dies you need to drive the car at least 5 minutes over 20 mph for the temp gauge to calibrate; or let the car sit off for 8 hours. I drove the car down the highway and this worked like a charm. When the outside temp is showing 36 degrees, it is basically telling the ac compressor not to come on and sending heat to the car. Not a lot of fun in 95+ heat in Texas. On a side note why why is there no documentation that this is the norm? I called the dealer to have a girl laugh at me and tell me the car “has” to have a lot of things reset after a battery swap...and they want $155. Which was basically corrected with 5 minutes of driving.
  16. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
  17. Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job. Truck has 81,XXX miles on it. Factory pads are about gone. The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad. It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it. 9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit. All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration. So for $260, worth the old college try. Parts list en route are.... -Yukon Axle Shafts -ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides) -ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides) -GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. ) -Raybestos Police package rotors. I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec. Tolerances in general are much tighter. -Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement. I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero. Yes, zero. So i'm going through the axle my way.
  18. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  19. Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
  20. 2001 yukon xl -Brakes to the floor, vibration under drivers side. Wheel shakes -see video hard to describe. any help would be appreciated. A5DC282A-7FA0-441F-B13D-28D53E1CFB1B.MOV
  21. Alright gang, I've got an '09 Yukon Denali that was having cruise control issues from time to time. I replaced the brake light switch which seemed to solve that issue but shortly after I had the service stabilitrak/traction control message display come up as well as a glowing ABS light. The switch was replaced a couple of weeks back. The traction control/stabilitrak message has illuminated maybe 5 or 6 times since and only comes on when I have stopped at a light or a stop sign. I know this may be a wheel speed sensor issue but the fact it showed up shortly after changing the brake light switch has be scratching my head. Anyone have a stabilitrak cure? Thanks for any input.
  22. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  23. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  24. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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