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Showing results for tags 'magnetic ride'.
Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
Just got a 2015 Denali, love the truck but have a little ride control problem with the level kit - possible I'm being paranoid. I had a 3/4" block under the front strut put in - forum member helped me see it causes double the lift - so 1.5" lift. After driving out from the shop, I noticed it road pretty bad - researched and had them perform a relearn on the MRS sensors - better outcome. Then I added 33" grapplers - rough again. Is it possible that added those tires on the 22's could stiffen that suspension up again, because it feels like it? I'm going in for another 'relearn' which at the shop I'm visiting may cost me $20. They walked me through what they do - coming from Audi's I'm well aware of plugging in cables and messing around with certain settings: - Attaching the computer to the OB2 - suspension relearn - is vehicle under any load - no - reset? YES Basic steps that perform a reset. Anyone else watched it done or heard otherwise? I'm a little nervous getting the relearn done, and it if makes it worse I have to find someone with stock 22's and relearn again, then get brackets. Sorry for the long post - there are some threads out there and maybe this will turn into a helpful one down the road for other users - or die in the abyss of useless kilobytes. I'll keep it updated as I learn more. Thanks!