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Drives

  1. These are 1 month old all-weather liners from the 2020 Tahoe in black color. Genuine GM OEM products offer precise fit and high quality finish. We have traded the car for 22 and did not get to use the liners. They cover first and second row. I was told they fit 2015-2020 Tahoes and Yukons and even Escalades First row- GM part # 84185470 Second row - GM part # 23237406 My price is $90 + actual shipping. I have paid $260 for them. My loss is your gain. Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon
  2. CHEVROLET TAHOE GMC YUKON AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER® 200 WATT AMPLIFIER AND SUBWOOFER SYSTEM GM part 19355507 Kicker part PSUTA15 Brand new never used or open GM Genuine OEM Accessories Amplifier and Subwoofer system made by Kicker for Tahoes 2016-2020 and many other GM trucks. ( Please note this is the not the cheaper Sub only kit but rather full audio upgrade system with amplifier, DSP and all parts, Retail rice at dealers is $1300. Part # 19355507. Please check gm accessories site for compatibility. It retails for $900-$1300 new on eBay and at dealers, I paid $930. Selling for the price of $625+shipping. The parts are sealed and never opened. I bought it for my 2020 Tahoe, but I do not have time to install it. It is plug and play according to GM.
  3. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  4. I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it! I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali. I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec... and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront. I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea? Thanks everyone! -Dia
  5. I am moving from a Ford F-150 truck to GMC. I really want the Heads Up Display and the camera in the mirror. Ford doesn't offer this on any models. Other saftey features are better on the GMC. At first I was looking only at the Denali truck. However, as I'm retired now, I don't haul much (including kids). So, buying a truck means, for me, having all of that truck bed that is rarely used. I also have to buy a cover for the bed! Was thinking - why not look at the Yukon. No need to buy a cover for the bed. One thing that I really liked about the F-150 was that with the rear seats folded up I could stand my road bike upright in the back seat without taking any wheels off. Just roll her in and roll her out. Extremely convenient. After watching dozens of YouTube videos on the Yukon I can't tell if there would be room to stand a road bike upright in back of the driver/passenger seats. I thought....I know who would know this - owners in this Forum of 2021 or older Yukons. I'm quite sure that if I went with the Denali truck I'd have no problem standing up the bike behind the driver. However, I don't need that truck bed. Of course, I don't really need all of those seats (3rd row) either. So torn between the truck and the Yukon. Thoughts on the bike?
  6. I have a 2003 yukon sle 2wd. The radio, windows, gauges on right side of the dash all stop working. The abs, tc and air bag lights come on. Now if you press the brake the radio and windows work. The gauges sometime come back on. The vehicle runs good now stalling issues or anything. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what could cause this.
  7. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  8. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  9. So after waiting 17 weeks my wife's new 2021 Yukon XL Denali 3.0L diesel has shown up. Very nice! Trouble is it doesn't match the bill of sale. We ordered midnight blue with jet black interior and a white unit shows up... So far there has been no offer of admission of the screw up. Just oh well we can order another one. This time with all the chip delays, 5 to 7 months... ya, no thanks. They have attempted to pin this on me and I have said this is a you problem, not a me problem. Deaf ears. Not sure what to do here. Has this ever happened to anyone before?
  10. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  11. I've got a 96 yukon slt. It's got a 5.7 LG SGI vortec engine. Bearings ate into the crank and I need to know what's the best replacement to go with. I also want to put a bigger cam on it.
  12. Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  13. I am looking to get a set of 2020 chevrolet 20" take-off rims to replace my factory 2006 Yukon Denali 17" wheels. My question is 2-fold. Do you guys think these should fit first of all? ...And secondly will my 06 GMC recognize the 2020 Chevrolet tpms sensor if I take it to have them reprogrammed?
  14. Hello anyone/everyone, As mentioned in the title, i would like to perform a front seat swap in my 2007 Chevy Tahoe with some seats out of a 2015 Yukon. What I’m really looking for if there happens to be a bracket out there that already exists so I can be lazy and not have to build one. Thanks In advance
  15. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  16. Is it possible to put OEM DENALI HID on Yukon SLT?
  17. Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
  18. Just picked up my 2021 Yukon Denali. Couldn't be happier with the satin wrap and zero chrome look! Just waiting on the Borla exhaust and my Denali will be complete. This is my first GMC (or American car for that matter) after driving German. Thought I would share some pics.
  19. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  20. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  21. I have a 2003 Yukon XL 2500. The radio started to cut in and out, and then soon gets to the point where there is no audio at all. No chimes and no radio. However the rear radio headphones still work. Thus I thought this was the bose amp and changed the amp. The new amp made no difference until I pulled both fuses and checked everything. I put the fuses back in and I had sound. Great. 2 hours later on the new amp the radio started to cut out again and then I had no sound. No chimes, no radio. I can restore the radio sound by pulling the radio fuse for 5 minutes, plugging it back in and all audio is restored. This does not last long and soon I will be back to no audio at all. It is not the amp as a brand new amp does the exact same thing. So how do I figure out what is wrong? I don't want to start replacing things as that did not go well with the amp. I have read that maybe there is a bad speaker, but since the speakers plug into the amp a bad speaker should only impact the amp. Also since the audio starts to cut in and out many times (longer each time) until there is no audio at all I can't imagine a bad speaker causing that. Once the speaker is detected it should cut the audio off until reset. Only pulling the radio fuse, waiting and then putting it back, will restore the audio. Is the radio bad? I pulled the codes and there seems to be nothing for the radio once the audio is lost. Thanks for any help!
  22. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  23. I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed?
  24. Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
  25. Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008. I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming... good or bad experiences? Thanks in advance for the discussion.
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