Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'yukon'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • General Motors Product and Industry News
    • The GM-Trucks.com Garage - Vehicle Testing & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom Archive
    • The Garage Archive
  • Future Vehicle Discussion
    • Silverado / Sierra & Future Vehicle Speculation & Spy Shots
    • GMC HUMMER EV & Future Electric Chevrolet Silverado
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019 - 2020 - 2021 T1XX Platform
    • 2019-2021 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2020+ Silverado HD & Sierra HD
    • 2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2015-2020 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2021 Colorado & Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2020 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2021 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019 - 2021 Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • Synthetic Advantage
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
    • Photography
    • Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRV
    • Racing, Strip, & Track
    • Trailers, Hitches, & Towing
    • Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn Care
    • Technology, Devices, & Gaming
    • Vehicle Buying, Financing, Incentives, & GM Card
    • Vehicle Builds
  • Technical & Advanced
    • Vehicle Appearance, Care, & Maintenance
    • Ask the GM Technician
    • Performance Engine Tuning
    • Transmission, Suspension, Transfer Case, & Axles
    • Wheels, Tires, & TPMS
    • Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXM
    • How-To
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
    • 2013-2021 Buick Encore & Chevrolet Trax
    • 2018-2021 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2009-2017 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2007-2016 Chevrolet Traverse, GMC Acadia, Buick Enclave, & Saturn Outlook
    • 2001-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy & Buick Rainier
  • Commercial Vehicles
    • 1980-2009 Chevrolet Kodiak and GMC Topkick
    • 1996-2018 Chevrolet Express & GMC Savana
    • 2019-2021 Chevrolet Silverado 4500HD/5500HD/6500HD
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • California Owner's Group's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Topics
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho
  • Colorado Trucks's Exhaust Setups
  • Colorado Trucks's Pics of trucks
  • SEO Paint's seo color ordered
  • NorthSky Blue Club's NorthSky Blue Metallic
  • NorthSky Blue Club's Pics
  • diesel 3.0's Topics
  • MIAMI TRUCK LOVERS's YOUR FAVORITE CHERVROLET MOD?

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • California Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Skype


Facebook


Twitter


Name


Location


Interests


Drives

  1. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  2. Reciently the Check Engine Lamp (MIL) came on at start and remainded on with no noticable engine running rough. The error codes were read which indicated 400+ Cold Start error codes on Cylinder No.3. Their are several GM Service Bulletins (PIP5498M, PIP5628E) on this subject V8 on engines from 2000-2022. The bulletins indicate the "Cold Start" causes misfires due to coolant entering the at the liner to deck face casting or the casting line in the intake port of the cylinder head, in my case No. 3. The GM Service bulletins indicate "engine replacement" is needed to fix this problem. I have been very happy about this vehicle however, at 67K miles, this type of issue should NOT be occuring. Apparently GM has know about this problem since 2000-2020 model years described on the attached Service Bulletins. After Two days of MIL being ON, the lamp is now OFF. My question is how can the problem described repair itself and could the diagonistic codes be attributed to another problem? I was under the impression that once the diagonistic code is initiated, the only method of turning OFF the MIL is by resetting or clearing the codes. PIP5498M.pdf PIP5498M.pdf
  3. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  4. Hope this helps anyone that runs into this. My original battery died and I changed it out yesterday. After the change my AC was not operating correctly. I surfed the forums and found all sorts of fixes like pulling fuses and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. None worked. I then notice that the outside temp on the intellilink screen is showing 36 degrees. Figuring it reset to Celsius (I’m in Texas so that is a logical centigrade reading for us) I checked settings and found it was set to F. Buried in a forum about calibrating the temp gauge I found a GM service bulletin that says after a battery dies you need to drive the car at least 5 minutes over 20 mph for the temp gauge to calibrate; or let the car sit off for 8 hours. I drove the car down the highway and this worked like a charm. When the outside temp is showing 36 degrees, it is basically telling the ac compressor not to come on and sending heat to the car. Not a lot of fun in 95+ heat in Texas. On a side note why why is there no documentation that this is the norm? I called the dealer to have a girl laugh at me and tell me the car “has” to have a lot of things reset after a battery swap...and they want $155. Which was basically corrected with 5 minutes of driving.
  5. Seen this driving the other day. Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front. https://imgur.com/a/n7lLtJC IMG_2143.MOV
  6. 2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
  7. I recently purchased a rebuilt title Yukon, comes with the magnetic ride. The ride is extremely rough, to the point where I’m assuming the system is just not operating. I’m not getting a message on the display for anything, unless the parking sensors and lane change sensors not working have something to do with it. The previous owner said he installed a 2” level kit to help the ride. At the time I didn’t understand what he was talking about. But anyone with any information or previous experience that could spread some knowledge, I would be thankful.
  8. These are 1 month old all-weather liners from the 2020 Tahoe in black color. Genuine GM OEM products offer precise fit and high quality finish. We have traded the car for 22 and did not get to use the liners. They cover first and second row. I was told they fit 2015-2020 Tahoes and Yukons and even Escalades First row- GM part # 84185470 Second row - GM part # 23237406 My price is $90 + actual shipping. I have paid $260 for them. My loss is your gain. Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon
  9. CHEVROLET TAHOE GMC YUKON AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER® 200 WATT AMPLIFIER AND SUBWOOFER SYSTEM GM part 19355507 Kicker part PSUTA15 Brand new never used or open GM Genuine OEM Accessories Amplifier and Subwoofer system made by Kicker for Tahoes 2016-2020 and many other GM trucks. ( Please note this is the not the cheaper Sub only kit but rather full audio upgrade system with amplifier, DSP and all parts, Retail rice at dealers is $1300. Part # 19355507. Please check gm accessories site for compatibility. It retails for $900-$1300 new on eBay and at dealers, I paid $930. Selling for the price of $625+shipping. The parts are sealed and never opened. I bought it for my 2020 Tahoe, but I do not have time to install it. It is plug and play according to GM.
  10. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  11. I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it! I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali. I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec... and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront. I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea? Thanks everyone! -Dia
  12. I am moving from a Ford F-150 truck to GMC. I really want the Heads Up Display and the camera in the mirror. Ford doesn't offer this on any models. Other saftey features are better on the GMC. At first I was looking only at the Denali truck. However, as I'm retired now, I don't haul much (including kids). So, buying a truck means, for me, having all of that truck bed that is rarely used. I also have to buy a cover for the bed! Was thinking - why not look at the Yukon. No need to buy a cover for the bed. One thing that I really liked about the F-150 was that with the rear seats folded up I could stand my road bike upright in the back seat without taking any wheels off. Just roll her in and roll her out. Extremely convenient. After watching dozens of YouTube videos on the Yukon I can't tell if there would be room to stand a road bike upright in back of the driver/passenger seats. I thought....I know who would know this - owners in this Forum of 2021 or older Yukons. I'm quite sure that if I went with the Denali truck I'd have no problem standing up the bike behind the driver. However, I don't need that truck bed. Of course, I don't really need all of those seats (3rd row) either. So torn between the truck and the Yukon. Thoughts on the bike?
  13. I have a 2003 yukon sle 2wd. The radio, windows, gauges on right side of the dash all stop working. The abs, tc and air bag lights come on. Now if you press the brake the radio and windows work. The gauges sometime come back on. The vehicle runs good now stalling issues or anything. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what could cause this.
  14. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  15. So after waiting 17 weeks my wife's new 2021 Yukon XL Denali 3.0L diesel has shown up. Very nice! Trouble is it doesn't match the bill of sale. We ordered midnight blue with jet black interior and a white unit shows up... So far there has been no offer of admission of the screw up. Just oh well we can order another one. This time with all the chip delays, 5 to 7 months... ya, no thanks. They have attempted to pin this on me and I have said this is a you problem, not a me problem. Deaf ears. Not sure what to do here. Has this ever happened to anyone before?
  16. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  17. I've got a 96 yukon slt. It's got a 5.7 LG SGI vortec engine. Bearings ate into the crank and I need to know what's the best replacement to go with. I also want to put a bigger cam on it.
  18. Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  19. I am looking to get a set of 2020 chevrolet 20" take-off rims to replace my factory 2006 Yukon Denali 17" wheels. My question is 2-fold. Do you guys think these should fit first of all? ...And secondly will my 06 GMC recognize the 2020 Chevrolet tpms sensor if I take it to have them reprogrammed?
  20. Hello anyone/everyone, As mentioned in the title, i would like to perform a front seat swap in my 2007 Chevy Tahoe with some seats out of a 2015 Yukon. What I’m really looking for if there happens to be a bracket out there that already exists so I can be lazy and not have to build one. Thanks In advance
  21. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  22. Is it possible to put OEM DENALI HID on Yukon SLT?
  23. Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
  24. Just picked up my 2021 Yukon Denali. Couldn't be happier with the satin wrap and zero chrome look! Just waiting on the Borla exhaust and my Denali will be complete. This is my first GMC (or American car for that matter) after driving German. Thought I would share some pics.
  25. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.