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Found 116 results

  1. Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job. Truck has 81,XXX miles on it. Factory pads are about gone. The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad. It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it. 9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit. All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration. So for $260, worth the old college try. Parts list en route are.... -Yukon Axle Shafts -ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides) -ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides) -GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. ) -Raybestos Police package rotors. I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec. Tolerances in general are much tighter. -Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement. I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero. Yes, zero. So i'm going through the axle my way.
  2. Recently bought a 2015 GMC Yukon Denali and the GPS is showing me in a different state. How can I Calibrate the GPS. I am trying to find it in the manuals but am having trouble. Thank you.
  3. Hi all, 15 Yukon SLT (94000 miles) here So I had a misfire code P300 and engine light blinking late December 18. Done a tune up (replaced all sparks and wires) and everything was fine until a few days ago. Didn't feel any lose of power, vibrations and etc. Got another misfire code, this time P0305 (cylinder #5) a few weeks back. Mechanic looked into it and couldn't reproduce. Had an engine carbon clean up. Again no lose of power, vibration poor fuel economy and so on. Couple of days ago got another misfire P0305. Called the mechanics and he suggested a compression test. Not sure if needed as no other signs are apparent. He also start speaking (worst case) about taking the cylinder out to be inspected and replacing AFM lifters. I've looked into mode 6 on my OBD scanner as saw that cylinders 1,3,5,7 all have misfires, though below the threshold so no codes or lights. Cylinder #5 had count of 78 misfires and the rest (1,3,7) around the 1-5 (thats after a 2hr drive) What I found weird is that the AFM cylinders (2,4,6,8) had no misfires. Aren't those the ones with the lifters? I've replaced the coil of cylinder 1 with 5 and got the same results (higher counts of misfires on 5) so don't think that is the problem. Anyone encounter the same issue? How was it solve? Any suggestions for self diagnostics before its heading back to the a shop? Thanks
  4. I just recently purchased a 2017 GMC Yukon XL Denali, with the 6.2L engine. I noticed the stock low beams are not that bright, as well as that sometimes they produce a white output and others become yellow. I had both of my headlights with assembly’s replaced under warranty and still is occurring. Has anyone ever experienced this issue, or been able to noticeably see their headlights change from white to yellow?
  5. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  6. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  7. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  8. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  9. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali, it is lifted with 35’s, the lift has about 1500 miles on it now, I have had no issues up until recent. The issue is I’m getting a pretty loud metal on metal clacking or tapping noise from some where in the front diff or transmission. It is most predominate from speeds 30mph down to about 10mph. The noise will start when I let off the gas while driving to coast or slow down, it will do it intermittently at higher speeds but not near as much but it is the same issue for sure. It seems like it starts after I let off the gas and the rpms drop down to around 1200 or less in a coast. The noise will start off not as loud and progressively get louder if I coast without touching the gas. As soon as i touch the gas the noise will go away, it does not do this in manual mode only in automatic. I have had the lift looked over multiple times and now I don’t think it has anything to do with it other than the additional Strain may have caused and already underlying problem to become more profound. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated!
  10. Hello everyone! Newbie here…was hoping to get any and all advice before I make a big purchase. I currently have a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali with about 180,000 miles on it. My job as a Medical Device Rep requires me to drive to make money so I think it’s nearing time to put the ol 2007 out to pasture. I love the Denali, so I’m considering getting a 2015 – 2017 model but want to know the issues they have presented? I know the 2015 was the 1st year of the new body style and that can sometimes comes with quirks. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  11. What are your thoughts about these Escalade taillights on a Yukon? Nice or Rice?
  12. Hi guys, Does anyone have the Bose amp (like the one on a 2015 Yukon SLT) harnesses wiring diagrams. Specifically for the speakers. Cheers.
  13. Took delievery of my new GMC Yukok XL earlier today and had an odd question about the second row windows. Anyone know why the "whole" glass doesn't go down? There's that 3 inch vertial piece at the back that is fixed in place. Only reason I ask is because my buddy's Silverado doesn't have that piece and since they are built similarly why would the Yukon have that obtrusive piece there that takes away from the clean side profile? Love some insight on this, is it merely structural? Cheers, Victor
  14. Hi guys, Do anyone else have this issue where the tailgate warning (the green/amber car logo on the cluster screen) is always green when a vehicle is detected? It should become ember if you don't keep enough distance from the car in front The adaptive cruise control and forward collision warning works so I assume the system does know how far the car in front is but the light doesn't change.
  15. Hey Guys, wondering which colour combination you think is best for the Suburban/Yukon XLs for exterior and interior? I know colour and taste is subjective but would like to see what everyone has picked! If you can post some pictures of your vehicle that would be awesome. I quite like the iridium metallic or black but still undecided on interior colour. I have a feeling if I go black on black it would feel like I'm driving an airport taxi haha (but it does look really nice though). So post some pictures if you can and why you chose that colour, if not thanks for looking at this thread! Cheers
  16. Hi there, new to the forum here and was hoping to gain some wisom from you folks. I'm in a dilemma and am having a difficult time choosing between the Silverado or the Suburban. I'm currently a paramedic in the great white north and like to go fishing, hunting, mountain biking, etc. The space in both is more than enough for me but I'm wondering which is the better vehicle? Most of the gear I'll be carrying will need to be dry so If I do get a pickup I'll have to add a shell to the back. So the question is: do I buy a suburban or a silverado with a decked out bed (what functionality do I lose going either way)? I'll be daily driving this car/truck so it will need to be a great all rounder (city driving, long road trips, light offroad, driving empty, etc). Do I lose any ground clearance/off road capability if I get the suburban, and do I lose any creature comforts if I get the silverado? Specifically looking at the LT or the Suburban and the LTZ for the Silverado. Bonus question: Do you think its worth upgrading to the GMC lineup? (ex: Yukon XL vs Sierra) They seem pretty similar give or take a few cosmetic things. Would love some insight into this issue. Thanks in advance!
  17. Does anyone have documentation or definitively know the specific location & function of each of the Blend Door Actuators in 2000-vintage Yukon/Sierra/Silverados?Thank you,Scott
  18. Hi there, new to the forum here and was hoping to gain some wisom from you folks. I'm in a dilemma and am having a difficult time choosing between the Silverado or the Suburban. I'm currently a paramedic in the great white north and like to go fishing, hunting, mountain biking, etc. The space in both is more than enough for me but I'm wondering which is the better vehicle? Most of the gear I'll be carrying will need to be dry so If I do get a pickup I'll have to add a shell to the back. So the question is: do I buy a suburban or a silverado with a decked out bed (what functionality do I lose going either way)? I'll be daily driving this car/truck so it will need to be a great all rounder (city driving, long road trips, light offroad, driving empty, etc). Do I lose any ground clearance/off road capability if I get the suburban, and do I lose any creature comforts if I get the silverado? Specifically looking at the LT or the Suburban and the LTZ for the Silverado. Bonus question: Do you think its worth upgrading to the GMC lineup? (ex: Yukon XL vs Sierra) They seem pretty similar give or take a few cosmetic things. Would love some insight into this issue. Thanks in advance!
  19. Hi guys, Anyone had the chance to remove these roof racks from their car? I just want to look underneath as I suspect I have some minor leak underneath Do I need to remove the headliner to do this? Thanks
  20. Hi, just replaced the windshield on my 15 Yukon and the guy told me that I might need to recalibrate my adas systems ad rain sensors. Did anybody here had to go through this process? I’ve actually called the dealer which told me that 99% of the times there is no need to recalibrate the system...
  21. I'm not sure I'm posting in the right area. Forgive me if so. I dont know a whole lot about cars but my boyfriend is having some issues with the back brakes on his Yukon. I believe they are drums. But he looked at them tonight & it seems that a big chunk of one of his brake pads has broken off. He says they keep losing up or something. Like they have a self adjuster thing on it that is supposed to tighten up as the brakes wear down. But it doesn't seem to be adjusting. Just getting looser. Would anyone have any clue why this would be happening? Could it be the wrong size on there?? Auto Zone says either 10 in or 11 in. 11 in was what was on there b4 he changed them, but could that have been wrong? Maybe previous owner had wrong ones on there? Sorry if this is confusing. Any help would be appreciated. It's a 1999 Yukon
  22. We are proud to announce the "GT" line of gauge faces. They are available in white or satin, you can preorder them now, however they will not start shipping until october 30th check out https://usdashworks.com/product/style-gt/ to check them out and place your order.
  23. This wireless charger has me stumped. Can anyone help? I bought the new charger from a 2018. Installed it and got nothing. During trouble shooting I found green and purple/yellow wire cut by the console lid....repaired it and still nothing. I’m receiving over 13v on the green wire....not purple/ yellow wire. I even tried reversing purple and geeen wire on the truck and only received the lighting bolt on the radio but phone didn’t charge. When I did this the 13v dropped to 2v. I tried to hook the charger to a small 12v battery and it powered up and phone charged when power was applied to green and black wire. I read several post where this new charger worked plug and play but I wondering if pinout is different configuration on 2015 Yukon for some reason?
  24. I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?
  25. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
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