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Drives

  1. Hi all. My son has a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.0. we are wondering can we use a engine wiring harness for a 5.3? Also what year range can we use.
  2. Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
  3. Just picked up my new 14 last Friday (5 days ago) and have had multiple occurrences where the truck will not start. The typical scenario has been like this: 1. Attempt remote start either by key fob or the OnStar remote link app. If using the key fob, the parking lights flash to indicate that the remote start request was received but the truck does not start. If using the OnStar app, I receive an error message that the truck could not be started. 2. Attempt to start the truck using the key and...click.click. 3. Get out of truck, throw something, say a few four letter words 4. Try again with the key and it magically starts. The new software was loaded in the truck as I was in the process of negotiation during the recall and had to wait for the update to come out before the dealer could deliver. I went straight to the dealer yesterday morning after this happened and they have no explanation to what the cause is. They reprogrammed the keys/fobs. I also was carrying my 2nd set of keys in the console, which they suggested could be the cause of the problem?? So I took the spare set of keys out of the truck and crossed my fingers. No such luck however as it happened again this morning. Anybody else experiencing anything like this?
  4. Anyone else have multiple issue regarding the lifters? I purchased a demo truck with 3900 miles on it back in early May. Started having engine issues almost immediately and had gotten all my lifters replaced recently, with under 7,000 miles on the truck. Spent almost a month at the dealer and finally got it back. They replaced all the lifters the first time and then a few weeks later it started having issues again. Luckily with the market conditions today I was able to trade out and get a newer one but I gotta admit I'm concerned. Anyone else dealing with this issue repeatedly?
  5. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  6. Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still. ?
  7. I have a 1993 GMC C3500 7.4L manual trans with running issues. When the engine is cold the truck has a rough idle and revs up and down. When the truck has warmed up it idles fine just a little low around 350 RPM. When in the driveway it revs to redline fine with no issue. Once the trans is put into gear, the engine will idle fine but as RPMs approach 1000 the engine starts to stumble, loose power, and begins to pop through the exhaust. Parts I have replaced: distributor ( came with new cap, rotor, and ICM) fuel filter fuel pump strainer IAC valve MAP sensor temperature sender fuel injectors spark plugs ignition coil ECM TPS sensor throttle body rebuilt and new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm installed fuel pump (the first fuel pump was one for a 1993, the second was one for a 1995) After installing the second fuel pump the engine runs smoother but still stumbles during acceleration. When the distributor was changed, engine was timed to 4 degrees BTC. I disconnected the timing connector and the engine runs better but still has a little stumble and lacks power when driving. If anyone can give me some ideas or things to check out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! I have retired the engine to make sure that it is at 4° BTDC....haven't drove it yet but will give an update once I do.
  8. I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe 105,000 miles. Twice last week a few days apart my check engine light began flashing about 15-20 minutes into my commute and turned off within about 1-2 minutes both times. My spark plugs were replaced at 97,576 miles last October at the dealership and the coils, boots, etc, were inspected . I’ve been told that putting a tank of high quality supreme grade gas could help the problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  9. Hey everyone, Running into an issue with my truck and I want to see if anyone can give me some insight. 2017-6.2l-4wd Truck drives normal in drive. Throttle response is good, gets up and goes, But, If I put it in park and try to rev it, it will runaway all the way to limiter and slowly creep back down. I will try to post a video a little later if needed, but I wanted to see if anyone has had this issue. It will also do it in neutral, but does not in drive. As well, I do not have a throttle response enhancer installed. Things on the truck: UPR Catch Can Kit American Racing Headers CAI Brand Cold air intake MBRP Exhaust Things I have tried/done (some are unrelated to this issue): Throttle Body replacement MAF Replacement Harness + Throttle body Check-over Pedal Wiring check-over Tune Checked by Tuner- We even put it back to OEM tune to see if anything changed Check for engine codes Check for irregular Vacuum amount. I wasn't entirely sure what the normal vacuum amount should be, but it "looked" okay. Overall the truck is pretty clean in the sense of being able to "see" anything wrong.
  10. My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
  11. At 1800 miles I noticed that my truck started or has been making this really annoying, high pitched squeak every time it switches from V4 to V8 on the highway. It almost sounds like a valve opens up when the cylinders reactivate and is driving me nuts!! I don't hear anything when it goes from V8 to V4. Unfortunately, I don't get to enjoy the "quiet cabin" GM advertised because of the squeaking. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I have the 5.3L V8 in a 2015 LT Crew Cab short box Z71
  12. My truck has 131K miles on it. After an oil change by the dealership. I started the truck the next day and noticed a very loud squeal from the engine. It goes away after about 20 secs. But if i drive and give it a good acceleration, you hear the squeal around 3500 to 4500 RMP. Movie 3_2.mp4
  13. Enjoy! Here's a copy of the 2007-2009 GM/GMC factory service manual for trucks. It covers trouble shooting and advice on what and how to repair/rebuild everything with torque specs. 4.3L engine to 6.6L trucks with everything form bumper to bumper... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0
  14. I have had this problem for quite some time. I've been trying to narrow it down one test and one part at a time with no luck. It will occasionally drive great with no problems but other times it surges while accelerating and driving down the road. I've had the timing checked, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the wires a while back, replaced the EGR valve, and replaced the cap and rotor. The truck will idle fine except for the occasional rough idle in gear during the times the truck is running badly. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  15. While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
  16. Currently working on a 6.0L V8 (2000 LQ9 I believe) and cannot seem to locate the PCV valve and hose (see image for reference). I was under the impression that they weren’t integrated into the valve cover until around 2005. The body of this truck is a 2000 Sierra 1500 but the engine was replaced from the 4.8 to the 6.0 at some point so I’m guessing for a lot of the component locations. First time poster, any helps appreciated.
  17. I'm trying to update an old 51 pickup that hasn't run in years. What's the most affordable way to put a newer engine in it? I was thinking something like a small block, but I'm out of my depth. The end goal is a dessert runner, mild offroad capability.
  18. On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.
  19. Hi, I'm pretty new to this website. Came across it when I was looking for an answer to my problem . . . I don't know too much about trucks.. cars....4 wheel vehicles. I just bought this 06 crew cab 1500 silverado 4.3L had about 80k miles on it. I actually noticed the sound when I was test driving it from the dealer. Now it has about 101k miles and noise is still the same. it makes a rattling noise, almost like a metal noise at LOW rpms only. Doesn't matter if its 35 or 75mph. Have to be cruising like slight amount of acceleration. Sounds like its coming from the engine.. I checked a bunch of forums all saying different things. my truck is stock, as far as i know.. one of the forums mentioned it could bea bad alternator, but I have no clue. any help? Sorry I'm a complete noob. Ivy
  20. I have a 1999 s10 blazer with a 4.3 motor i'm putting in a 2002 4.3 motor and the crank sensor whole is different what can i do? Are there any other differences i know about as well?
  21. My 2019 SIlverado 4x4 has 3,100 miles. It was parked in the driveway last week and when I attempted to enter it into the garage, and in Drive, it sat there for a second or two, and then lurched into the garage. I instanteously hit the brakes and got it stopped. When I pressed the gas, the truck just stood still, then took off into the garage. Now, today, as I backed out of the driveway for a quick errand, the emergency brake would not release, then it released, but as I selected Drive, it refused to move. I played around with it several times, pressing the brake pedal as instructed, and finally got it to go. However, I had now brake assist. It required a ton of pressure to get it to stop. The dash light up like the 4th of July. BRAKE showed up in red, engine in yellow, Traction Control in yellow, Tire Pressure (quickly vanished), ABS, and Service ESC. Am heading to the dealer (48 miles) in the morning. I was going to connect my DTC and see what was showing, but will refrain, so dealer can see for themselves. I've noticed a couple of intermittent quirks since I've owned it (July 2019), but things seemed to resolve themselves. I did receive December recall and they will get that looked at in the morning. Am attaching a photo of the dash as i sits now. The -14.6V DC light is from a piece of equipment I have installed. Anyone else out there having issues? Also, photo shows less the 30psi oil pressure at idle, a bit low I am thinking
  22. I recently acquired a 1951 Chevrolet 6100 missing its engine and would like to refurbish it. However, Instead of putting in the original engine (Chevrolet 235) I am looking for an engine that came out in the next 10-15 years to put in my truck that will out put 200+ horsepower without being out of touch with the truck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Truck started to make a squeaking noise this weekend, took it to the dealership on Monday. Dealership called Tuesday and said that they could not find anything wrong with the truck and that this sound is normal. Take a look at this video so that you can hear and understand what I am talking about. https://youtu.be/aERzjGAX-aU Does this sound normal to you guys? I also put water on the belt and the noise was persistent so it does not appear to be the belt. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  24. "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley
  25. Hey Guys, I have the opportunity to pick up a 2019 5.3 engine & transmission with 20k miles on it fairly cheap. I have an 09 sierra that I'd like to swap it into, currently running a stock 5.3. My question is: Is it a big deal to make a change between years like that? I've replaced engines before in older trucks but never with this type of age difference, I don't want to get in over my head. Thanks!
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