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Drives

  1. I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe 105,000 miles. Twice last week a few days apart my check engine light began flashing about 15-20 minutes into my commute and turned off within about 1-2 minutes both times. My spark plugs were replaced at 97,576 miles last October at the dealership and the coils, boots, etc, were inspected . I’ve been told that putting a tank of high quality supreme grade gas could help the problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  2. Enjoy! Here's a copy of the 2007-2009 GM/GMC factory service manual for trucks. It covers trouble shooting and advice on what and how to repair/rebuild everything with torque specs. 4.3L engine to 6.6L trucks with everything form bumper to bumper... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0
  3. Truck started to make a squeaking noise this weekend, took it to the dealership on Monday. Dealership called Tuesday and said that they could not find anything wrong with the truck and that this sound is normal. Take a look at this video so that you can hear and understand what I am talking about. https://youtu.be/aERzjGAX-aU Does this sound normal to you guys? I also put water on the belt and the noise was persistent so it does not appear to be the belt. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  4. Hi people. I'm new to this forum and hate to ask for help, but idk what to do. I purchased an older truck from an auction a few years ago. I hardly use the truck, but for moving gravel or quads, I just needed it since I can't do this with my VW bug. The problem started with realizing after I purchased the truck that there's been some rebuilding, and for a while now, I've been getting knock sensor codes (ie. low input P0332 and P0337). I changed them out last year with some lower end sensors + harness, but the codes returned, so I changed them out again recently with ACDelco and a new harness, and again the codes are reappearing. Now I'm wondering, although the Sierra 2500 (2006) came with a 6.0 vortec, is it possible that this engine has been swapped with a 5.7? I saw 5.7 written under the hood when I first bought it, but never thought much about it, and now I'm just not sure. I've looked on the front of the (leftside) head, but there was only a 4 letter code that didn't id anything. There were some numbers on the cylinder, but again, nothing comes up doing a search for them (ie. zero hits on google). I've heard that the engine number should be stamped somewhere near the rear of the engine, but I can't see anything. So where should I look for the engine's serial number? I know the engine is a vortec engine (as the plastic cover above the manifold indicates), I just want to make sure. If this is a 6.0, then maybe I will need to look at the PCM 'knock module'. If this is actually a 5.7, I think I may need to order different knock sensors (?) I'm not sure and could use some help. This is a picture of the leftside engine in front of the cylinder head. I think it reads D224? I'm not sure.
  5. While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
  6. This is my first post here so cut me some slack if it's in the wrong place.. Anyway, I recently bought myself a 2013 Silverado 2500, gas 6.0, 4x4 & on the drive home taking the highway I noticed there is little shake/vibration when on the gas when going 40+. Nothing bad at all, just seems to run less then smooth while on the accelerator going 40 & over. It completely stops when I let off the gas & just coast. It feels like its coming from the engine but if not then idk where it could be coming from.. Up till this point I've read it could be the driveshaft or U-joints, which are not looking to healthy, very rusty. Anything else it could most likely be? Odometer currently reads 50,500. Thanks in advance!
  7. Currently working on a 6.0L V8 (2000 LQ9 I believe) and cannot seem to locate the PCV valve and hose (see image for reference). I was under the impression that they weren’t integrated into the valve cover until around 2005. The body of this truck is a 2000 Sierra 1500 but the engine was replaced from the 4.8 to the 6.0 at some point so I’m guessing for a lot of the component locations. First time poster, any helps appreciated.
  8. I have a 2020 RST with the 3.0 LM2 Duramax with 79k miles… the flywheel failed when I was driving down the highway and left me dead in the water.. I had it towed to the dealership 4 weeks ago and they called today and said the transmission and the engine needs to be replaced. Has anyone experienced this with their trucks? I never towed anything heavy and was religious with service.. luckily all covered under the 100k powertrain warranty…
  9. Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4
  10. My wife and I got this truck ( 2014 Chevy LT 4x4 with the 5.3 ) about a week ago , check engine light came on. Took it to my dealer and they said the Barometric Pressure Sensor went bad and replaced it. Tonight we got the same check engine light and on-star said it was the same problem as before. Any ideas here ? Thanks for the help.
  11. TIA for your help and time… BLUF: Ticking noise under truck, not heard from top of engine compartment. I noticed a ticking/clicking/pinging noise under my truck today, took a video, hopefully you can hear it. Anyone else? Truck was in Park and Neutral (Parking brake engaged) and still heard the sounds.
  12. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  13. Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still. ?
  14. Just changed the oil on my 2014 gmc sierra 4.3l. It required six quarts of oil which is what i used but now i am afraid if its overfilled or not. Its a completely different reading than what it was before the oil change. Althought its not above the hashmarks there are 2 dots on there which I’m not sure if those are the oil level indicators or the hashmarks are the oil level indicators. The dots are kinda hidden which is why I’m not sure if those even are oil indicators dots. Im really hoping i filled it up correctly and wont ruin the engine by overfilling the oil. I installed a fumoto valve so it could be easier to drain excess oil. I do note there was a metallic ticking noise that was present before the oil change but disappeared afterwards. following picture (2) is before the oil change one of each side of the dipstick The next two fuller looking ones are after the oil change one for each side of the dipstick
  15. Hey there I have a 2015 1500 5.3L LTZ Silverado 4WD (midnight edition) Anyway I was doing highway miles and got a console alert that oil level was low. Stopped at the auto parts store, added one quart, saw level was still low.. so I added a second quart which filled it up. I climbed under the engine in the parking lot, and took a peek at the oil pan. I noticed the gasket was all mushroomed out and there was oil pretty much caked everywhere lower than that seal. I took it to the dealership to get it repaired and the service manager told me the strangest stories. He said 1) the lower oil pan is one time use 2) the lower oil pan gasket is RTV 3) the upper oil pan gasket was also leaking 4) the crimp in the oil cooler line was leaking (didn't realize my engine even had an oil cooler!? Why would a light duty truck have this equipped?) He quoted $2000 for everything including 10% sales tax. Does this raise the alarm for anyone else here? I only saw oil from the lower gasket downward. The parts on rock auto are about $70. I think I'll have to do this one myself but would love some thoughts. Thanks in advance.
  16. "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley
  17. Hi all. My son has a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.0. we are wondering can we use a engine wiring harness for a 5.3? Also what year range can we use.
  18. Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
  19. Just picked up my new 14 last Friday (5 days ago) and have had multiple occurrences where the truck will not start. The typical scenario has been like this: 1. Attempt remote start either by key fob or the OnStar remote link app. If using the key fob, the parking lights flash to indicate that the remote start request was received but the truck does not start. If using the OnStar app, I receive an error message that the truck could not be started. 2. Attempt to start the truck using the key and...click.click. 3. Get out of truck, throw something, say a few four letter words 4. Try again with the key and it magically starts. The new software was loaded in the truck as I was in the process of negotiation during the recall and had to wait for the update to come out before the dealer could deliver. I went straight to the dealer yesterday morning after this happened and they have no explanation to what the cause is. They reprogrammed the keys/fobs. I also was carrying my 2nd set of keys in the console, which they suggested could be the cause of the problem?? So I took the spare set of keys out of the truck and crossed my fingers. No such luck however as it happened again this morning. Anybody else experiencing anything like this?
  20. Anyone else have multiple issue regarding the lifters? I purchased a demo truck with 3900 miles on it back in early May. Started having engine issues almost immediately and had gotten all my lifters replaced recently, with under 7,000 miles on the truck. Spent almost a month at the dealer and finally got it back. They replaced all the lifters the first time and then a few weeks later it started having issues again. Luckily with the market conditions today I was able to trade out and get a newer one but I gotta admit I'm concerned. Anyone else dealing with this issue repeatedly?
  21. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  22. I have a 1993 GMC C3500 7.4L manual trans with running issues. When the engine is cold the truck has a rough idle and revs up and down. When the truck has warmed up it idles fine just a little low around 350 RPM. When in the driveway it revs to redline fine with no issue. Once the trans is put into gear, the engine will idle fine but as RPMs approach 1000 the engine starts to stumble, loose power, and begins to pop through the exhaust. Parts I have replaced: distributor ( came with new cap, rotor, and ICM) fuel filter fuel pump strainer IAC valve MAP sensor temperature sender fuel injectors spark plugs ignition coil ECM TPS sensor throttle body rebuilt and new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm installed fuel pump (the first fuel pump was one for a 1993, the second was one for a 1995) After installing the second fuel pump the engine runs smoother but still stumbles during acceleration. When the distributor was changed, engine was timed to 4 degrees BTC. I disconnected the timing connector and the engine runs better but still has a little stumble and lacks power when driving. If anyone can give me some ideas or things to check out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! I have retired the engine to make sure that it is at 4° BTDC....haven't drove it yet but will give an update once I do.
  23. Hey everyone, Running into an issue with my truck and I want to see if anyone can give me some insight. 2017-6.2l-4wd Truck drives normal in drive. Throttle response is good, gets up and goes, But, If I put it in park and try to rev it, it will runaway all the way to limiter and slowly creep back down. I will try to post a video a little later if needed, but I wanted to see if anyone has had this issue. It will also do it in neutral, but does not in drive. As well, I do not have a throttle response enhancer installed. Things on the truck: UPR Catch Can Kit American Racing Headers CAI Brand Cold air intake MBRP Exhaust Things I have tried/done (some are unrelated to this issue): Throttle Body replacement MAF Replacement Harness + Throttle body Check-over Pedal Wiring check-over Tune Checked by Tuner- We even put it back to OEM tune to see if anything changed Check for engine codes Check for irregular Vacuum amount. I wasn't entirely sure what the normal vacuum amount should be, but it "looked" okay. Overall the truck is pretty clean in the sense of being able to "see" anything wrong.
  24. My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
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