Charles P.

Hi All, I recently replaced the mirror switch on my 02 Yukon. Weird issue, When I click the middle of the switch (Used to fold in mirrors on later models) it blows the 3 amp fuse. I have already used the secondary 3a fuse during testing. Is it okay to use a 5 or 10a fuse here for the time being? I only had a spare 10a and it did work, I just refrained from clicking the center of the switch. The autopart stores near me only sell "kits" for damn near 20 dollars. 5a is available at the autopart store as well, separately. Just wondering, as I do not want to burn any electronics, or myself down to the ground.

Heres my update: Pedal- Feels better, when I am driving, I can let go of the accelerator and it doesnt feel like the throttle body doesnt IMMEDIATELY slam shut. Overall, nice change. Did not fix my issue though.

I wonder if this pedal replacement would fix the issue I recently posted on...I still have yet to figure it out. Edit: I went ahead and bought it. Should be here tomorrow. Mines a 2017 with the 209 based pedal. Im a few revisions back.

Hey everyone, Running into an issue with my truck and I want to see if anyone can give me some insight. 2017-6.2l-4wd Truck drives normal in drive. Throttle response is good, gets up and goes, But, If I put it in park and try to rev it, it will runaway all the way to limiter and slowly creep back down. I will try to post a video a little later if needed, but I wanted to see if anyone has had this issue. It will also do it in neutral, but does not in drive. As well, I do not have a throttle response enhancer installed. Things on the truck: UPR Catch Can Kit American Racing Headers CAI Brand Cold air intake MBRP Exhaust Things I have tried/done (some are unrelated to this issue): Throttle Body replacement MAF Replacement Harness + Throttle body Check-over Pedal Wiring check-over Tune Checked by Tuner- We even put it back to OEM tune to see if anything changed Check for engine codes Check for irregular Vacuum amount. I wasn't entirely sure what the normal vacuum amount should be, but it "looked" okay. Overall the truck is pretty clean in the sense of being able to "see" anything wrong.

Hello, We have been trying to contact you about your vehicles extended warranty.

Hey Everyone! I have had my 2017 sierra for a couple years now. I love the truck but since I have had it, I thought it always had a rough ride. I seeked help here on the forums multiple times with great help in return and I got to a point where I got new tires "Continental A/T's (very soft), and then put 6112's on the front and 5160's on the rear. Everything felt fine for the first month, but it seemed that, after the shocks settled, the jittery bumps were back. I was so confused, I had asked everyone, everywhere I went, if their sierra's or silverados rode as bad as mine. No one had my experience. Well, On Monday, I decided, "you know what? I don't tow anything, AND, my tow button has been turned into race mode anyways, soo...I'm going to pull them just to see." What.A.Difference Its night and day, I don't have even the slightest thought of getting rid of it now. What I could see when I was down there was that the bags only allow maybe an inch of travel between the bags bump stops at completely empty. I also found that at the recommended 5-10psi for daily use, it only raised it to 1.5 inches of travel. Putting more air in caused for even worse of a ride, basically like I was axle to frame. Thanks to everyone that has helped me throughout the past year trying to diagnose it. It was right in front of us, we just didn't know it.

ordered new strut mounts on amazon the other day. Couldnt find the ones put together in stock, and when they are, they sell out quick. Ordered from Battleborn offroad from reviews and told them my situation. ( Strut mount on the left broke) They understood and managed to ship same day. Best customer service ever. got these

Had a duh moment. got 2 ordered and should be at dealer friday.

Anyone know where to get a "pair of nuts"? Lol I am switching to the 6112's, and the shop told me the nuts should be replaced as well because they are cross-thread on the current 5100s....

Sorry for bringing back an old thread. For those that had issues, did you ever figure it out? I am currently moving from 5100s to the 6112s. I will be putting them on the first notch since I already have 2.5 blocks for front. Interested in hearing responses.

Ill see if the shop has the write up for the K/S, mine did not include the fuse box at all, rather, the wiring coming out. They did it pretty close to a split off point or something...

My kill switch does exactly that, but rather, is in line with the harness. that way, they cant just quickly change the fuse. Dont ask me how I did it, because I didnt. Had a reputable shop near me do it.

I'd love to see that (honestly wouldnt love them breaking into my vehicles again but...). I'd also love to see them get caught or....something else, keep this from happening.

Yeah, It being right down the street, I put plans in motion same day I saw the original articles on the 5pm news. As well, I find it funny that even back then, Onstar was "looking into it" pff, they dont care, or else they would have a resolution by now. It is a bit disheartening

Image 1:https://imgur.com/cyrfubL Image 2: https://imgur.com/vYxWQvn Again, As you will obviously see, I am no cad designer or anything. I just went by thought and we made something out of it.