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Drives

Found 11 results

  1. Hey All, I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift. 2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF. 3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other. 4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady. 5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing. 6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal 7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case. 8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!! Installation 1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case. 1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs 2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs 3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs. **FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs. Here is a video from youtube that may help too. Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
  2. Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
  3. Who has replaced their factory rear driveshaft: Why? What brand or what type of custom build? Type of mods to driveshaft? Steel vs. Aluminum heavier/thicker walled/stronger Length added to accommodate lift kit? Heavier U Joints? Two piece? Cost? Results? Additional Advice or comments? Feel free to add in any field I neglected to mention. *I searched, but did not find a dedicated replacement driveshaft thread.
  4. I'm new to forum, I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500 Standard Cab 2 door ( Not a HD ) My Center support Bearing for my driveshaft is Bad. I have searched continuously for a video that has the support bearing (SB) in the same location and cant find one. My SB is Not hanging like others but it was located above the frame. Is this correct? My truck has ran fine for years until this went and I was wondering if the SB was supposed to be installed below the frame ( appearing to hang). Thanks for everyone's cosideration and help
  5. Hello everyone, I stopped by a well known performance shop Monday to set up a time to dyno the truck and have it tuned. They said they would only street tune it but couldn’t run it on the dyno unless I upgraded the driveshaft. This is the first I’ve heard of this. I’m wondering if they just had a bad experience. I had over 742 hp and 1307 tq on my old dodge Cummins and never had an issue with the driveshaft after years of drag racing and sled pulling. I broke about everything else though. Anyone else have any issues? 2014 6.2L 4x4 CC standard bed stock 20” with only upgraded CAI and exhaust. Thanks, Gregg
  6. Hi Everyone, So my truck has been at the dealership two times officially now. This 3rd time I had my friend look over it and he said the truck was within GM's specs. I don't know what GM's specs for vibration are but my vibration is in the mid 70mph range and excessively vibrates and then smooths out. This is a constant cycle throughout my commute. I am going to pull my driveshaft and take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts. I know several people have had their driveshafts replaced under warranty and it did not correct the issue. My thoughts are if your truck originally came with an out of spec driveshaft chances are there is a whole stockroom somewhere in the Parts Department that has out of spec driveshafts mixed in with the ones without issue, hence the reason some people have no luck with driveshaft replacement. I really feel this could be one of the major issues behind all of this especially when there is documentation instructing the technicians at the dealerships to use hose clamps to balance the driveshaft. I'm sorry but I don't see hose clamps as a permanent correction to this issue. I will update this post when I get the results from the driveshaft inspection. Please feel free to share your thoughts and bounce ideas around. Collectively I believe we can find an aftermarket fix for this issue, it may not 100% resolve the issue but will at least save people from taking huge losses on trade in (if you did not go through a buyback/lemon/customer satisfaction program). (A lot of people are trading in / selling their trucks because of this issue) ***UPDATE 01-22-2016*** I contacted the Team at Precision Shaft Technologies (http://pstds.com/) in Clearwater FL and they were able to squeeze me in as a walk in. (Not there normal protocol. They were super friendly, informative, and VERY helpful!) I drove up there and pulled the driveshaft in their parking lot. They then put the driveshaft on a machine and it was a near perfect balance. They added one small shim to the U joint to get it perfect but I'm sad to say the vibration is still present and there was no change. However, when I returned home I put my truck up on jack stands and ran it up to the speed I had issues at (per GM's service docs) and there was NO vibration. I was extremely confused at this point. I dumbed it down and looked at the rear wheels while the truck was in drive (idle speed) on the jack stands (be sure to block your front wheels and disable traction control / StabiliTrak if you plan on doing this on your own). I noticed my left rear wheel has a slight flat spot it in so much so that it's extremely difficult to notice. I have not had a chance to swap a known acceptable wheel to the rear at this time. When I do I will update this post. A recap for a description of my vibration: -72-74 MPH there is a cyclic vibration. Roughly every 7-8 seconds the truck has a vibration and then the vibration disappears.
  7. Alright so I’m thinking of doing a 2/4 drop on my 14 Silverado got a quick question. Will I have to mess with the driveshaft at all I don’t want the driveline to go in to the transmission. Will I have any problems.
  8. So my driveshaft on my 2008 Silverado Crew Cab came out on the highway last week. It also broke a tab that holds the U-Joint in place on the pinion yoke. My buddy broke the nut loose without telling me and removed the yoke thinking he was being helpful. I know marking and lining everything back up the way it was is crucial. What would be my next move here? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. I have a vigorous vibration on my floor mounted shifter at 65mph. This weekend I got my tires balanced, replaced my u joints, and tightened down the bolt in the cab that holds my shifter in the housing compartment. It still vibrates. I took it to a mechanic and they determined a bent driveshaft. Next, I took the drive shaft to a drivetrain specialists, they recommended building me a custom driveshaft since the other shaft was unfixable, and (from the receipt) balanced the driveshaft (not sure if the new or old driveshaft was balanced). The vibration is exactly the same at the same speed. Where do I go now? I am going to head back to the drivetrain specialists shop. I have a 2006 2500 Silverado 6L V8 Ext cab. Sidenote: A muffler/exhaust system that was not tight could shake around, but it would rather shake my truck as a whole and not just the floor mounted shifter, correct?
  10. I'm looking at purchasing a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain SLT Crewcab and the driveshaft is black - every other driveshaft I've seen/owned in a GMT-900 crew cab was aluminum and was not painted (probably clear coated?) but definitely metal colored. What is this black driveshaft? Is it something special because of the All Terrain package? Something they did because the truck was built for GM as an autoshow vehicle? The truck has the 3.08 rear end if that matters.
  11. Guys maybe we can help GM a little bit here. WE bought a brand new $36,000.00 GM 2500 doublecab WT the other day and the driveshaft carrier assembly fell off at 143 miles. Come on GM what is up with you guys?............. If anyone is having a clunk noise from the trans area you may want to shimmy underneath and check those bolts before the driveshaft drops completely out while driving/jams into the road/lifts the back of the truck up/rips out the rear end and flips the truck over and kills a lot of people!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is that over dramatic, "well maybe" but you get the point. My good friend was driving this truck when this happened and he stopped when it started wobbling but he was only doing 10 mph on a side road. Could have easily been a disaster. Hopefully this is a fluke but what if it is not? maybe there was a problem that went on for a week or even a month on the assembly line and we have many thousands out there like this? Keep in mind only 143 miles on this truck..............
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