Start by getting under it and inspecting every bit of the front end, suspension, steering linkage, all of it. Have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you look at everything. Hopefully that will help you get a clue. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRIVE IT. If you do something ignorant, you may hurt someone. With the airbags deployed, your hopes of a low budget “make it steer” repair are let’s say “slim”. You must’ve walloped the ever loving heck out of it to get it to deploy those head curtain bags.. Not to be mean. But, your post reads like it’s Dad’s truck and he’s out of town til Monday. Sorry.
Kennerz summed it up very well. “Good fuel is the best Mod”. Well said, man. You believe your truck “hauls butt” and runs well on bunk fuel, as I said before, “It’s your truck, have at it.” If you ever have an opportunity to ride in (much less drive) one of these trucks with just an intake/exhaust and a tune. I recommend that you do. Hearing that V8 sing and feeling the power going to the wheels is a joy. I can’t explain that experience to the uninitiated. But, It’s why the majority of us drive them and are here enjoying this forum, sharing our experiences and learning the intricacies of these vehicles. You’ve had many members explain how detonation control works and how timing affects performance. People with varied levels of expertise and experience, from mooks like me to actual subject matter experts. You’re firmly entrenched in your position. Good for you. It’s your truck, have at it. My truck makes me happy, it’s a simple pleasure that I enjoy almost daily. I modify it to make it better suit me. I enjoy the process of upgrading it. I relish reading about the brethren here and their experiences. When one of them finds a way to wring an additional smile out of his truck, a little part of me celebrates and I plan on emulating their “gains”, be it horsepower or a new interior light. Not everyone gets that and that’s fine. I couldn’t agree with KarNut more. I too, find your position mind boggling, as I imagine you find mine. Enjoy your extra $300.
You know you’ve done it. The questionable mod. The cheesie accessory. If it’s over the top, it belongs here. Little dog with blinker eyes? Giant emblems? Ridiculous paint? Goofy wheels wider than your tires?Trash can lid subs? Cursive writing in your tint? Welcome home. Let’s not forget performance mods... Garbage can lid hood scoop? Chrome stacks? Grandma’s emphysema O2 tank injection? We got you. Let’s see them all. There is NO SHAME too great. You know you’ve got a fin in the garage somewhere. “We’re all about the downforce” If you show me yours... I’ll show you mine. Heck, I’ll even start. Late 1960’s fender emblem. I removed the plastic and drilled the radiator support so it would sit flush. Yup, I suck. ”But, but, I’m proud of my engine, honey.” “The guy’s all think it’s cool”. She shook her head so hard, I thought the marbles would rattle out her ears.
Darksky replied to Shawn T's topic in 2020 Chevy Silverado HD & GMC Sierra HD (2500/3500)Congratulations on the new machine. It looks like a jewel. It’s also good to see a local kid do well. I’ll keep an eye out for you in the new truck. Maybe we will see each other at a stoplight. I had dinner at the new steakhouse on the HARP just the other night. -Dark.
Cut the pipe in front of the muffler and behind the flapper. Drop in a piece of straight pipe, it’s a ten minute $10 fix. It doesn’t sound horrendous. It’s really not that big of a change. After a week, if you don’t appreciate it... two cuts and slip a muffler in its place. I like Aero mufflers, they’re easy and work well. You’re not out anything by trying the straight pipe. With the three OEM resonators, it’s not a huge difference and it’s basically free to try.
To protect itself from detonation the engine may retard performance with low octane fuel. You might not feel it. I can tell the difference under hard acceleration. They literally tell you not to run low octane fuel in the manual. It’s your truck, have at it.
Damn. Just reading that hurt me a little. edit: carburetors were cool, you Heathen. Swapping jets, playing with floats, it was kismet. My first Holley 650 double pumper... her name was Alice. I get misty just thinking about our first tunnel ram. Now points... points were dirty hooores.
I can’t find the NorthStar cheaper than $259 delivered. I know BOSCH makes good products. The NorthStar battery has a 48 month full replacement warranty. The Bosch says 36 month “no questions asked” replacement. PepBoys has t at $199 currently. For me that would be like $214 If you find it for $150 post a link. I might be swayed...
Suggestion- Beef up your rear spring pack a little and add a set of traction bars. It will perform like a different vehicle. I added one full length leaf to the pack and a set of Rough Country traction bars. There are other quality brands as well. Traction bars make a very noticeable difference to handling and rear wheel traction. My DSC hardly ever activates post install.
I must be misunderstanding your position. Cleaning and facilitating fast, uniform, dense airflow is huge. Media blasting the intake, scrubbing crap off the back of the valves. Cleaning the MAF (some even de-screened it). All of that has value. Where you lose me is in prescribing ECU calibration/intake maintenance as a “fix” for a known driveline issue like the “Chevy Shakes”. I’m not being smarmy here or being a troll. In my mind, the Shakes is a manifestation of a group of errors working in concert to cause/allow that terrible vibration. Such as: -long, cheap, weak ultralight driveshaft -lightweight, poorly speced leaf springs (especially on lifted 1500 trucks) -overall poor quality control regarding tolerances of parts in differentials to include brakes & rotors -out of balance wheels/tires -piss poor OEM upgrade shocks -some have complained about motor/trans mounts -and finally slapdash assembly I’m certain this list isn’t comprehensive. While I agree that I wouldn’t start with replacing axle shafts. I have seen several members here post that their OEM axles were out of spec. So, replacing them isn’t outlandish. Especially if you are far down the list of attempted repairs. I’m lucky. My truck doesn’t shake. However, strengthened leaf springs, replacement driveshaft, quality shocks, brakes, aftermarket wheels and tires with increased rotational mass and a set of traction bars may have helped in this case. I’m sure everyone appreciates being “thrown a line” in a “try this” type post. You’re a smart person and your input has merit. That said, I’m struggling to see the correlation in your recommendation and the “Shakes”.
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