Darksky

Link to EXACTLY what you used, please.

2.5 inch pipes are plenty, with low restriction mufflers, (I like Aero Exhaust in Utah #AT2525XL) don’t forget a crossover or H pipe. If you decide to go to headers, I would also recommend a set of resonators before the tailpipes. (Again, I like the Aero Exhaust 2.5 x 10 inch version #TR252) they tame it down a bit and definitely reduce highway RPM drone. I used a set of “one into two” slash cut, angled turn down tips- exiting behind each of the rear wheels, just in front of the bumper.

I have the bolt on L-86 Soler Performance Throttle Body. I can whole heartedly endorse this product. It removed the throttle lag or stumble that my truck had when accelerating, especially from a stop. My truck is smooth and stronger throughout the power range. I’m very happy with my purchase. I realize this is not a technical review. Soler may have those numbers somewhere, I don’t know. I do know that for me, this was a good investment.

Still looks damn sharp, Grump. I ask a lot of my 2015. I live rural, drive ten plus miles of gravel road (each way) everytime I leave the house. Drive across the prairie, chase cattle. It gets driven... 86,000 now. Runs and rides like a dream. Hands down the best truck I’ve owned and I *loved* my 2005. It went 215K, I felt like I abandoned an old friend when I drove this one off the lot and left it sitting there.The L86 has made me happy at every turn.

Nothing beats the voice of experience. When I first went to the winter wonderland, I couldn’t imagine why everyone had “steelies” and studded tires for winter. Those pictures are examples of the price of an education.

Replacement cables? Are there heavier gauge, finer stranded, more insulated, higher quality connector type cables to be had? Which ones, exactly do you recommend? The variations in different brands and caliber of manufacturers is like anything else, they vary wildly. Which cables should I Buy for my 2015 L86 High Country? Please and thank you.

A Hitachi Magic Wand “neck” massager caused the 110v circuit to fail at what seemed to have been a very critical moment. She had a few rather unflattering words for GM at that particular juncture.

Call or Swing by a busy 4WD parts and service shop. They may have a tin can full of hardware as well. You might even ask your dealership’s (body shop) service guy for bolts. Lots of people do OEM takeoffs.

If you haven’t already done so; get the driver’s side A-pillar grab handle. It’s a huge help in getting in and out without grabbing the steering wheel. It helps my old ass immensely. My truck came with one installed on the passenger side A-pillar, so I didn’t have to add it. If your truck does not have one pre-installed on the passenger side, I wold recommend getting one today. Your passengers (spouses or kids) will thank you. They make the side steps much safer IMHO. (Note the tie in to the assist step subject)

Don’t take leaves out of the pack. You’ll end up with them twisting under acceleration or braking or worse yet failing and breaking in two. Go to a truck spring shop and have them make/modify you a set to the specs you want. They’re surprisingly affordable. Flip kits are tried and true among the low low community as well. Be careful “shade treeing” springs- bad things happen. Also, if you see a torch, just drive away. Torching springs is idiocy. edit: Traction bars are one of the best things you can do for your truck. They make a huge difference in traction control. Also, because of the added connection between the frame and the axle, it kind of functions as an anti-sway bar. That helps a noticeable amount in cornering these monsters. Ladder bars look cool too... if you’re into looking cool. ?

Alex, welcome. Please post more details and describe what you alluded to in your above post.

Dude, the link shows a side shot of your truck, for me. Can you post one of the bow tie?

Yondu is perfectly correct about the ease of installing a chrome tip. A slash cut chromed or stainless will slip right over the stock pipe with just a tap from a mallet. For my taste, cut about six inches off the factory pipe before slipping the new tip over it, so that the finished tip does not stick out further and look odd. Also, I paid attention to twisting the tip so that the angle was to the rear, but slightly downward. It looked cleaner to me, when you couldn’t see up into the pipe from behind the truck. If you are looking for the simplest and very cheap performance upgrade for the exhaust. Cut the factory pipe before the muffler and just after flapper. Then put back a piece of straight pipe in its place. Leave everything else alone. It’s a small performance improvement, sounds good and the price is right.

The improvement from 3.23 to 3.73 with tires that measure out just a hair under 35” is very good. The drive-ability improvement is great. I ran the numbers a while ago, with the swap, the truck performs as it would’ve with stock height tires if it had been equipped with a 3.46 ratio. This is just where the math calculations would’ve put the gearing. The truck runs much better- stoplight to stoplight. Any feeling of “lugging” is gone. Mileage picked up a bit for in city driving. Highway performance is back where it should be and the truck sees 8th gear much more often. All in all a great improvement without having to swap the internals down to the 9.5” set up.