Darksky

Link to EXACTLY what you used, please.

2.5 inch pipes are plenty, with low restriction mufflers, (I like Aero Exhaust in Utah #AT2525XL) don’t forget a crossover or H pipe. If you decide to go to headers, I would also recommend a set of resonators before the tailpipes. (Again, I like the Aero Exhaust 2.5 x 10 inch version #TR252) they tame it down a bit and definitely reduce highway RPM drone. I used a set of “one into two” slash cut, angled turn down tips- exiting behind each of the rear wheels, just in front of the bumper.

I have the bolt on L-86 Soler Performance Throttle Body. I can whole heartedly endorse this product. It removed the throttle lag or stumble that my truck had when accelerating, especially from a stop. My truck is smooth and stronger throughout the power range. I’m very happy with my purchase. I realize this is not a technical review. Soler may have those numbers somewhere, I don’t know. I do know that for me, this was a good investment.

Still looks damn sharp, Grump. I ask a lot of my 2015. I live rural, drive ten plus miles of gravel road (each way) everytime I leave the house. Drive across the prairie, chase cattle. It gets driven... 86,000 now. Runs and rides like a dream. Hands down the best truck I’ve owned and I *loved* my 2005. It went 215K, I felt like I abandoned an old friend when I drove this one off the lot and left it sitting there.The L86 has made me happy at every turn.

Nothing beats the voice of experience. When I first went to the winter wonderland, I couldn’t imagine why everyone had “steelies” and studded tires for winter. Those pictures are examples of the price of an education.

Replacement cables? Are there heavier gauge, finer stranded, more insulated, higher quality connector type cables to be had? Which ones, exactly do you recommend? The variations in different brands and caliber of manufacturers is like anything else, they vary wildly. Which cables should I Buy for my 2015 L86 High Country? Please and thank you.

A Hitachi Magic Wand “neck” massager caused the 110v circuit to fail at what seemed to have been a very critical moment. She had a few rather unflattering words for GM at that particular juncture.

Call or Swing by a busy 4WD parts and service shop. They may have a tin can full of hardware as well. You might even ask your dealership’s (body shop) service guy for bolts. Lots of people do OEM takeoffs.

If you haven’t already done so; get the driver’s side A-pillar grab handle. It’s a huge help in getting in and out without grabbing the steering wheel. It helps my old ass immensely. My truck came with one installed on the passenger side A-pillar, so I didn’t have to add it. If your truck does not have one pre-installed on the passenger side, I wold recommend getting one today. Your passengers (spouses or kids) will thank you. They make the side steps much safer IMHO. (Note the tie in to the assist step subject)

Don’t take leaves out of the pack. You’ll end up with them twisting under acceleration or braking or worse yet failing and breaking in two. Go to a truck spring shop and have them make/modify you a set to the specs you want. They’re surprisingly affordable. Flip kits are tried and true among the low low community as well. Be careful “shade treeing” springs- bad things happen. Also, if you see a torch, just drive away. Torching springs is idiocy. edit: Traction bars are one of the best things you can do for your truck. They make a huge difference in traction control. Also, because of the added connection between the frame and the axle, it kind of functions as an anti-sway bar. That helps a noticeable amount in cornering these monsters. Ladder bars look cool too... if you’re into looking cool. ?

Alex, welcome. Please post more details and describe what you alluded to in your above post.

Dude, the link shows a side shot of your truck, for me. Can you post one of the bow tie?

Yondu is perfectly correct about the ease of installing a chrome tip. A slash cut chromed or stainless will slip right over the stock pipe with just a tap from a mallet. For my taste, cut about six inches off the factory pipe before slipping the new tip over it, so that the finished tip does not stick out further and look odd. Also, I paid attention to twisting the tip so that the angle was to the rear, but slightly downward. It looked cleaner to me, when you couldn’t see up into the pipe from behind the truck. If you are looking for the simplest and very cheap performance upgrade for the exhaust. Cut the factory pipe before the muffler and just after flapper. Then put back a piece of straight pipe in its place. Leave everything else alone. It’s a small performance improvement, sounds good and the price is right.

The improvement from 3.23 to 3.73 with tires that measure out just a hair under 35” is very good. The drive-ability improvement is great. I ran the numbers a while ago, with the swap, the truck performs as it would’ve with stock height tires if it had been equipped with a 3.46 ratio. This is just where the math calculations would’ve put the gearing. The truck runs much better- stoplight to stoplight. Any feeling of “lugging” is gone. Mileage picked up a bit for in city driving. Highway performance is back where it should be and the truck sees 8th gear much more often. All in all a great improvement without having to swap the internals down to the 9.5” set up.

Those are cool. Shoot me a pm. I’d like one for my tool box.

Dani, if you print up the #4 stickers, I want one for my shop. Heck, I’ll by a couple. Too funny. Thanks for the laugh. I appreciate the Golden Knights reference as well. “Old Paratroopers, good to the last drop”

I’m at 6000’ in Colorado as well. It’s not that different, certainly not enough to sell your truck. Unless you’re leaning that way already. The issue that I have is that 91 octane is premium here. 93 octane pumps are few and far between.

When you get your high beams screwed back down where they belong, you’ll be a lot happier with the pattern as well.

It’s been a month what’s your review of the holster?

Magnetic holsters, not exactly what you’re looking for. But, on the right track. I like this vendor’s products. https://jm4tactical.com/original-magnetic-quick-click-carry-holster-6-colors-available/

Picture of the underside. Sorry, it’s all for us “old” truck guys. FWIW- I do like the looks of this one.

BMC Extreme Customs. Part#: BMC-21026 Single Scoop Functional Ram Air Hood Fully Integrated Ram Air channel internal to hood - no extra bolt on channels to buy Fully Functional -interfaces through Open Path or Cold Air Intake Uses stock mounting hardware - no need for new brackets or special struts. Comes prebaked - which means less time for Prep. Comes ready for prep and paint Highest quality available and built in the USA Includes Fitment Guarantee 1 Year Warranty I have not seen this one in person. But, the pictures look decent.

Done. My concerns regarding my rear window and the reality of heat causing exploding rear windows (much less an actual fire) is now logged with my VIN# with GM. Hopefully it will never be an issue for me. But, it has been for several forum members.

They will change it, for certain. I would try putting a bit of weight over the axle and see if it changes anything. Maybe a bag of concrete on each side towards the tailgate and try it again. Post your findings.

They will make the back end stiffer overall, by decreasing the Springs’ ability to bend down in the back and up in the front, which causes the yoke to move upward as a result of the spring’s twisting. This is called axle wrap when it takes place during acceleration. By creating a “constant” dimension between the mount point on the differential (where it mounts to the Springs) and the mount point on the frame. It decreases the ability of the axle to move by keeping the spring from flexing (twisting). Doing this stops the tires from lifting up off of the pavement during the spring flex. During that flex, with the tire lifting up slightly... it allows the wheel being driven to slip. Causing the “breaking loose” loss of traction. At times you can even hear the tire chirping as the spring flexing causes wheel hop. The traction bars all but eliminate that. If the “bouncing” issue you are having is taking place during acceleration, especially hard acceleration with the tires breaking loose even just a little. Then the traction bars are your fix. Hence the name “Traction” Bars. If your rear suspension feels too soft to you or sags under load, you may consider a simple modification to help out. This is what I did; When I picked out a lift kit for my truck, it replaced the front coil overs with a taller and heavier “strut”. The shock had a larger piston and bigger fluid reservoir. The actual coil was replaced with thicker diameter, heavier, taller and possibly better grade of spring steel. The springs themselves were made by Eibach. With replacement uniball upper control arms, it was a good setup. The rear however was lifted with a block. Period. A block. The kit did come with a really good replacement shock, but no further modification was made to the leaf springs. It seemed odd to me to beef the heck out of the front end and do almost nothing to the rear. If you think about it, the block actually makes it potentially weaker by separating the spring mount from the axle. The block’s only real good point is that it had a small wedge designed into its shape, which pointed the differential’s yoke more towards the transmission’s tail end. That angle will help to minimize the flex that the u-joint must correct with every rotation. The absolute best fix would have been to purchase a replacement set of leaf springs with the correct arch to provide the six inch lift without using a block at all. You could take the spring specs from the front coil overs and have a spring shop determine the correct spring rate to match the rate of the front ones, adding a “wedge” under the springs to improve the angle just as the block had done. Bing, bang, boom... you’re off to the races. But, I didn’t do that. I wasn’t sure if the OEM Springs “needed” replacing. I already had the shiny new block, U-bolts and hardware. I improvised or maybe compromised is a better word. The OEM stack on a 2015 1500 truck seemed awfully puny. The main eyelet spring and three little leaves under it. I called a local suspension shop. *Before I go any further, let me clarify. I mean a “real” truck suspension shop. Preferably one with the word SPRING in the name. A place where they build springs and suspensions. I walked into the spring shop with my make, model and VIN#. In five minutes they looked up my OEM spring specs. Then they cut me a leaf. Not an Add-A-Leaf. A full length leaf with the correct arch and spring rate to be added into my existing OEM stack. It was designed to fit directly under the “eyelet” leaf and above the other three. They gave me a heavier “pin bolt” and two “keepers” for each side, to ensure the stack stayed straight. They cut, drilled, arched and painted those two leaves while I went next door bought us tacos. Us eating was the longest part of the process. Here’s the kicker, it’s been a few years. But, IIRC the whole thing was less than $100 or so. I drove back to the 4x4 shop that was installing the lift kit.when they dropped the rear diff, we disassembled the spring stack, slipped in the new leaf and bolted it all back together. The new stack did make the rear end of the truck about 3/4” taller. 7/16 or so, due to the thickness of the new leaf, the rest due to the additional support of the new leaf on the stack. Here it is four full years later and my truck performs like a champ. A few years ago, a friend and I both with 2015 1500 trucks went to the gravel yard and filled our truck beds with pea gravel for his wife’s yard project. His Sierra with a ProComp 6” lift, 35” tires on 20x10 wheels squatted pretty hard. My Silverado with the FabTech 6” 34” tires on 18x9 wheels did better, wasn’t squatted anywhere as much and rode like a champ. I did have the RC traction bars installed at that time. In Summation. For me; traction bars are an absolute win. The Rough Country bars I bought are perfect. The install was straightforward and relatively simple. Their performance is 10/10. The truck is better connected to the ground after the install in a remarkable fashion. You will no longer break a tire loose and kick on the traction control or DSC under daily driving. (This alone is worth the price of admission). The rear end is slightly stiffer, I think this is a good thing. To me it feels like it should have from the dealer. As I noted before, the traction bars are not connected Left to Right. Both sides are mounted independent of the other. But, because of the connection to the frame, it feels like I have added a rear sway bar, possibly setting it up on the “soft” tip. 1SLOW1500 mentioned a brand that he is familiar with, and has used. Anything he recommends will be solid, as he is solid. I bought the Rough Country because they were readily available, were drop shipped to my door and were made specifically for my application. I have always had good luck with Rough Country With the sale pricing, I got them delivered for about $300. Which to me was a smoking deal. They just work. They look cool too. ? Like I said before, I won’t call them the Best mod I’ve done to my truck, but they are right up there. Dark .