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Found 102 results

  1. Hello everyone. I have a fun issue. My 99 suburban decided to die on me recently. Was running alright. Went into my parents for maybe 30mins. Came back out it fired up and then died maybe a half second to second after. Never had the issue before. Today decided to attempt to diagnose. It has spark. Distributer looks good. Changed the fuel pump with assembly and fuel filter. Also changed the cam sensor and crankshaft sensor. Lastly changed the ignition switch due to sometimes it acting up and messing with my gauges and transmission. Checked the idle control valve motor. Seems to be working. Cleaned the gunk off of it and the throttle body. Checked all the relays. All working. All fuses are good. Attempting the security passcode reset now due to running out of options. The security light isnt showing. But not sure if this suburban has one. Spray starter fluid into intake and it will run for a second longer then dies out again. Not sure what's causing it. thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator. Any ideas?
  2. I really need to convert the tired look of my 2008 Z71 Suburban to something exciting like a gmc sierra or Silverado front clip.....I like 2014 and up....any knowledge on how difficult. Bolt on?
  3. hello everyone. trying to figure out the wire harness part number to connect to part number 15926102 integrated brake controlller I have 4 loose wires under the dash blue trailer brake controller? black red white ground? the wire adapter I had had 8 wires all white. I think this is the wrong connector
  4. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  5. The rattle we had was coming from headliner behind the passenger seat, and was typically worse at medium to highway speeds. It is noticeably louder with the sunroof cover slid back(open). My fix: Open rear passenger door and stand on running board to access the roof rack. If you wiggle the crossbar of the rack it has the slightest of slack, but just enough to make a clanking sound. I wedged some thin flexible magnet pieces(no the rack isn't magnetic, just what I had handy) in between the crossbar and the roof brace in front of and back of the bar(see pic). Viola...no noise. If these come loose I will come up with something more robust(maybe some two part epoxy). I'm not familiar with the inside of the 2015-2019 Suburban, Tahoe, and regular Yukon's, but the ultra quiet cabin of the Denali amplifies ANY little rattle or strange noise. I was used to the road noise and rattles of my 2007 Suburban(288K). They went kind of hand in hand. This one will take some getting used to. I know, suck it up buttercup. Now...back to the "other" issue... front end clank, clank, clank-clank after medium to hard braking, but occasionally during acceleration, and less occasionally steady speeds. No specific rhythm, almost like it's swinging in the wind, and then it suddenly stops after a few seconds. Please help if you know anything! I WILL fix this too! There is a video from another in a different thread on here that has the EXACT same issue/sound as mine.
  6. 2015 Chevy Suburban with 130k, transmission went just like everyone else's, so I had it rebuilt at a outside shop with a trusted mechanic but I keep on having to bring it back. He rebuilt it and it took a week for the converter and the new gears to shift smoothly once again (normal). But now Im having problems with the temperature. My transmission temp is skyrocketing to 260 degrees with no check engine light coming on. After doing further investagation and taking the dipstick out and looking at the fluid and touching the stick it wasn't burnt or hot at all. The stick was cold. This is causing both my fans to blow cold air which is doing nothing and the temperature stays. The engine temperature is normal around 190. I love these trucks but with the amount of money put into them to keep is insane.
  7. What is the minimum if anything I need to do to my 2016 suburban ls to fit 285 70 17 tires on it without rubbing? It has silver painted 17" steel wheels not the more common 18" aluminum wheels. First time caller long time listener, I will take my answer off the air, thanks!(not my vehicle below, just an example of my wheels)
  8. Hi all, just took delivery of my Suburban and the first thing that jumps out at me is that there is no cover for the owner's manual like the '04 has. Salesfolk say that GM doesn't use a cover anymore. Are they lying? Thanks, Lester
  9. What is the average repair cost for a fuel pump sending unit and float. On a 1998 Suburban 2500. Parts and labor included??
  10. I have a 1997 chevy suburban 4wd and while in 4wd it was making a loud clanging noise when accelerating in 4wd hi or 4wd lo. Anyways everything underneath was tight and no play. I couldn't figure it out. It has the dash 2wd 4wd hi and 4wd lo electric switch it wasn't flashing while in 4wd hi or low and you could hear an engagement sound when 4wd selected. I thought it maybe it was the front crown and pinion gear missing a tooth. I took it to the mechanic and it was the 4wd actuator! I guess it was gimped up and engaging and disengaging while in 4wd and making a horrible clanging noise. Anyways I replaced the actuator myself a few years ago (which was possibly the easiest repair ever) but the 4wd light was flashing and it wasn't engaging at that time. Anyways it cost me a fair bit more to have a mechanic diagnose and then replace the actuator but if it happens again I'll know what it is. Also I may be able to help someone else searching online for an answer. It's a fairly cheap fix to do yourself and super simple to do. About $60 from 1aauto! Hope this helps someone out.
  11. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  12. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  13. Hey everyone, As the title states, I have a 2004 Suburban, 1500 with the 5.3L and it's a 4x4. The AC keeps blowing the 10A fuse. Backstory: A few weeks back the family and I were driving a few hours away in the car. I stopped halfway(but didn't turn off the car) to fill up with gas and grab snacks. When I came back in I noticed the AC wasn't cold, but all the blowers were going and the light was on the dash. I popped the hood and noticed the compressor wasn't going, so I checked the fuses and found that 10amp AC fuse was blown. I replaced it with a 15 amp(only one I had) and finished the drive down. For the rest of the day it kept blowing the fuse, and I eventually worked up to a 30amp fuse in order to make it home. I know that's bad but it was hot and I have a newborn so no AC for 2 hours wasn't really an option. At home, I found this thread(that's pasted below). Seems like the exact same problem, so I went ahead and replaced the AC clutch earlier this week. Mind you everything appears to be working 100% normal. When I pop a new fuse in, the AC pump works and the AC is ice cold. After replacing the AC clutch, it's blowing the fuses again. I'm not really sure where to look or where to start for fixing this issue. It just randomly started happening. Maybe it's a wire that's shorting out? The only semi-consistent thing I notice is that if the car is running, and I put in a new fuse, it won't blow unless I drive it AND put it back in park. Driving for hours its fine. Only once I put it in park it seems to blow then. At my wits end. Any ideas? The only thing I can think is the wiring to the clutch compressor is shorting out somewhere intermittently. Thank you for any suggestions!!
  14. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  15. 2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
  16. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  17. My Suburban's sound system has recently gotten blown out. Does anybody know the size for the front and rear door speakers? I'm considering on putting an aftermarket sound system into the SUV.
  18. My Suburban was suddenly overheating whilst driving it. Does anybody know if the '07 Chevy Suburban LT have an electric fan? However, I do know that my '07 Silverado (VortecMax edition) has an electric fan.
  19. Hello first post. I have a 2015 suburban with horrible FM reception. I have replaced the Radio, HMI and antenna booster. no change. I'm hoping to find out if anyone has had this problem and was able to repair. My next attempt will be to use an aftermarket FM window antenna to replace the OEM in glass antenna. Could there be another module causing maybe the control bezel?
  20. Okay so my truck game with accordion style mirrors from the factory. The button on my door shows left for extend, right for retract which works however it says center for fold which does not work. I we have been told by a couple people recently that the mirrors did not fold and extend however they said that it could be reflashed to fold instead of extend. This makes no sense to me. So do the factory mirrors fold and extend?
  21. Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
  22. Took delievery of my new GMC Yukok XL earlier today and had an odd question about the second row windows. Anyone know why the "whole" glass doesn't go down? There's that 3 inch vertial piece at the back that is fixed in place. Only reason I ask is because my buddy's Silverado doesn't have that piece and since they are built similarly why would the Yukon have that obtrusive piece there that takes away from the clean side profile? Love some insight on this, is it merely structural? Cheers, Victor
  23. Hey Guys, wondering which colour combination you think is best for the Suburban/Yukon XLs for exterior and interior? I know colour and taste is subjective but would like to see what everyone has picked! If you can post some pictures of your vehicle that would be awesome. I quite like the iridium metallic or black but still undecided on interior colour. I have a feeling if I go black on black it would feel like I'm driving an airport taxi haha (but it does look really nice though). So post some pictures if you can and why you chose that colour, if not thanks for looking at this thread! Cheers
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