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Drives

  1. I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
  2. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  3. What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD? I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban. I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income. Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it? SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance. Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr)
  4. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  5. Have a 4l80e (first gen?) Transmission and it doesn't go in reverse. So took pan, gasket, filter etc out to get to the reverse servo assembly. Took that apart and checked the servo pin (seems pin I have is D/C so can't find replacement or specs) Also inspected pin and looks good. So wondering If it's the "bigger" spring in the reverse servo assembly but can't find specific, part number or name etc. Can anyone help please? I don't want to buy a whole "kit" if I just need one spring. Or the servo assembly isn't the issue... First spring. Not second. Ordered second by part # but not one I now know I need. Thanks for your help Nate
  6. Hey all ! Just signed up, but I'm coming over from gmc4x4.com. That forum has pretty much died out, and I need some pretty urgent help. Rear heat ! Fan doesn't spin. Doesn't get voltage at the fan. I have done the following, but I am willing to double check things too: That red wire under the dash. Complete, charged and seems to be ok. I really don't understand this fix, so I'd be willing to talk about it some more. Replaced rear resistor with the new updated one. Millivolts on those wires - nothing else. Fuses checked and appear to be ok. I have the auto-thermostat model with rear and fore temperature settings and "Auto" fan speeds. When I move the front HVAC control, it will disable the rear (Unless it's in AUX and the rear comes to life) The vent flapper doesn't appear to move either. It's like the entire rear unit has just gone to sleep. Voltage applied directly to the motor will spin it. Motor and windings appear ok and test out ok. Does anyone have any ideas ?
  7. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  8. 2004 SUBURBAN Z71 I need some help. My suburban sometimes goes dead. It will go dead every day for a week, and then not again for a month. Right now, its doing it again. I have: Replaced the battery (twice) on a new battery < 1 week old. Had the alternator tested 3 times. Replaced a questionable looking harness connection on the alternator with a soldered in connector properly heat shrunk. Replaced the Instrument cluster about 6 months ago with a rebuild due to bad steppers. (not because of battery drain) but I mention it because its popped up before. Performed numerous parasitic draw tests and found a possible issue: Here's what I have found so far. My natural battery off state is 0.03A or 30mA. I have confirmed this with a matching truck I have where it has an off state draw of 22mA. They're within reason to each other so I consider that the normal state for my vehicle. I have caught what I feel to be the issue twice, where I have a draw of 0.22A or 220mA almost a 1/4 amp and solid. It doesn't happen every time though. I only luckily found this twice while testing. The only way I can get the draw to disappear when it comes up by itself is to pull TBC BATT. And I only know its happening because I have a meter in line with the battery while testing. I can simulate this same draw by doing the following: 1: Wait for the natural off state to settle in around 0.03A. This takes about a minute, first it starts off at 2.8A, then drops to 1.8, and so on as features are put to sleep after connecting the battery. 2: Pull the LBEC 1 Fuse. This makes the battery draw jump from the settled state of 30mA up to 190mA. 3: Reinsert LBEC 1 Fuse. This then jumps the battery draw all the way up to 220mA, which I consider to be the actual problem. The thing is it never drops back down. It just sits there indefinitely. 4: (to solve the issue) If I pull TBC BATT that instantly drops the draw back to the normal off state current, and when I reinsert TBC BATT the draw doesn't come back until I repeat the process above. Notes: A: when this happens, pulling any fuses in the cabin fuse panel does not drop the current. B: There is an audible click from a relay or something INSIDE the BCM under the dash. My other truck does this too, but I'm not sure what's on the aft side of that connection. I checked out some of the free wiring diagrams at autozone. Unfortunately they're not organized too well and I'm getting lost with them, that and once the diagram enters the BCM I'm not sure whats going on with the circuits after that. Anyone here have some insight to what to do? Like I said before, I have another identical truck (just not Z71) I can swap parts and pieces with to narrow it down. I will mention that on the other truck, if I do the steps above I get the same result BUT it eventually does settle down to 0.02A by itself where the Z71 does not. It just draws that 1/4 amp all day long (usually all night long). Here's a video of my test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBdFzXxGzgdzuzAR8 Here are the two offending circuits in the underhood fuse panel:
  9. Anyone heard of adding adaptive headlights (headlights that move with steering Input) to the 2015-2019 suburban? Is it as simple as switching the headlight assembly, or do additional modifications need to be made?
  10. I purchased a brand new Suburban in 2015 from Sawgrass Chevrolet in November 2015. Over the last 6 months my husband and I noticed the paint on the hood of the vehicle is faded and has noticiable swirls. I had it evaluated by a auto body shop and they confirmed the paint is defective and there is no clear coat. I've also been told by the dealership that this is a very common issue they have seen on the hood/ over the engine. Yet, there is nothing they can do, I must contact GM. How is it possible that this is a know issue and there is no resolution. My car is just over four years old! My 10 year old Ford Expedition's paint looked close to brand new compared to this!!! Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? CLASS Action lawsuit?????
  11. About 1 year ago I replaced the engine in my 1989 suburban v2500 with a 5.7L tbi engine in it, I used another chevy 350 from summit racing and used most of the old Accesory drive then, about 6 months after I completed the build it noticed a loud rattling noise that sounded like detonation to me but only under low speed acceleration and it would stop when I let my foot off the gas, so I began troubleshooting the issue. I replaced the egr valve, put colder spark plugs in it, replaced the knock sensor, tried high octane fuel, retarded the timing adjusted the valve lash and now I am lost, the noise only gets worse the more I drive it. Any Ideas?
  12. Bought this vehicle brand new. I love it, and perfect for myself, my family, and the fact it's Diesel puts the cherry on top for me. But... now things have started. We have currently 1,137 miles on the vehicle and had the first message populated: - Service steering column lock. (see photo) Everything else worked, remote start, standard start, and the vehicle had zero issues. The following day from our road trip, we had to go to the DMV with our out-of-state paperwork to submit for plates. My wife now received a new message. - Service emissions system. See owners manual. (see photo) She drove to the DMV and left to get the smog paperwork. Then a new issue: - Vehicle remote start isn't working. (see photo) She is in the car and tries to start... Nothing. She tries again. It starts, and she drives it to a local dealer. They come to look and scheduled us for an appointment. She drives the vehicle now, and Onstar now shows the emission issue. ( see photo ) We now can't register the vehicle in California, because, the check engine light is on, emissions warning, and they won't smog it until it's corrected. Awesome... I noticed that none of these issues happened until it updated the software in the vehicle. I'm hoping this is something that can be fixed. I've been looking around for answers and only finding more issues that are all pretty shitty. Sorry, no better way to say it. I've also seen a post of people saying, “deal with it, it's a new breed of vehicles,” etc. I’d challenge that answer. No one should pay this much for a vehicle and face these issues I'm reading about. So here's what I'm going to do, document everything, and I mean everything. This will be for everyone who may have this issue now or who may come across it. My opinion...but I'm not a mechanic, is that there is a massive software and hardware issue with these models. I believe GM internally has to know about this from Dealers, Customer Service, Compliance Reports, etc. I'm sure all issues are in the queue to be address or fixed. I do, however, feel with the challenges of physical hardware that they chose a vendor that was most cost-effective, which is a component of these issues a long with the capability to support the software complexity of the current models. Or maybe I'm just wearing a tin hat, who knows. So, I open this up to you. Any advice, similar issues, outcomes you've faced, and other topics, please comment below. May the journey of dealership visits begin. Hopefully, this journey isn't to long.
  13. Story: transmission overheated @ 60k miles. Warranty replaced with new transmission. I’ve had the vehicle (2018 suburban LT 4x4) since new and always sit around 190 degrees give or take and back and fourth around 200 when towing. With the new transmission I keep hitting 210 up to 220 driving around town and not driving hard. I haven’t towed yet but tow often and I am very concerned and afraid to tow. I just finished a thermostat delete to test that out and driving for about 30 min around town and freeway it was over 190 and climbing. It took a while to get there compared to normal but still got hot. Dealership has no clue and the transmission shop has no clue. I need help in figuring out what could be causing the heat. I am so for an oil change and my AC blow nice and cold.
  14. Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  15. Never been here before but looking to convert her into a 4x4 car camping rig
  16. Hey all, sorry if this is the wrong area. 2008 Suburban 4WD here and I bent this weird clip on my u-joint, curious if I need to replace u-joint or not? I have 4 u-joints and only the one on the front diff has it. Very thin metal that I can’t imagine does much. New ones don’t come with it. What’s this things purpose? Can I just pull it and forget it? Never seen one of them before anyway. Thanks guys!
  17. Hi all, new to the forum, but have been reading random threads. I own a 2020 Trailboss, and my wife has a 2019 Suburban Premiere 6.2. I did some searching and couldn't really pinpoint any good discussions on this. I'm looking to add exhaust to the Suburban. I was hoping to accomplish 2 things: 1. Marginal increase in volume/sound, she wants people to know she's on the road 2. "Dual" exhaust, however I can't seem to find any good pictures or systems that exist out there. Honestly I don't even want/need the tips visible, it would be great to add a 2nd exit on the driver side, similar to what's currently on the passenger side. Anyone do/see anything like this or know of a system that exists? Thank you!
  18. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  19. new to the forum i'm seeking some advise i have a 2016 suburban ltz with magnetic ride a few days ago i noticed it felt like it was bottoming out when driving down the road started reading up on it and people say when you go over 65k miles on them suspension gives out well mine has 91k on clock but what has me baffled is that there are no service warnings popping up on dashboard has anyone experienced this before any help is greatly appreciated before i go shelling out any cash
  20. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  21. Being that the 91 Suburban is a square body I posted here in hopes of getting some help. I have a 4x4 suburban 1/2 ton I just overhauled the brakes. On the back brakes I replaced everything (All springs, axle brake lines, wheel cylinder, all new hardware including self adjustment wheel and kit and the wheel cylinder links) except the drums and the backing plate which I couldn't find a new replacement. Please note also there is no parking brake cable at all, no parking brake strut or the arm that holds the cable. Three things I have done that could have contributed to the problem that I want to mention. 1.) The only replacement wheel cylinder links I could find were slightly longer. (The original ones were terribly rusted and there was no drag what so ever.) 2.) I cheaped out and didn't get the rotors turned. They looked fine. 3.) The backing plate tabs had grooves in them so I carefully ground them nearly flat as to not take an insane amount of material off. So I put everything together and adjusted the star wheel to where the pads were just barely touching the drums. With the wheel off, the drum did spin nice and freely. Though I suspect slight warpage. I drove to town about 7 miles away and back and everything seemed normal. Got out of the truck and smelled a burning smell and noticed the hub on the driver's side rear wheel was too hot to touch. I jacked the truck up and the wheel could spin freely by hand going backwards, but forward it would lock up! I took the tire and drum off and backed off the adjustment some, put it back together and once again it moved forward and backwards freely. Took it for another test drive and the same thing. I have ordered another set of pads because the ones I put on are heat damaged and ordered a new set of drums. I just can't figure out why they would lock up going forward and not in reverse. I'm just fishing for ideas here, never seen anything like it. (Update): I lightly sanded the brake shoes and they look good as new. I got the rear end jacked up and backed the star wheels all the way to the closed position. With the drum off on the driver's side, I lightly pressed on the brake and the rear shoe was failing to return to a closed position. I added extra lube and it appears to be functioning. But I still don't feel confident the problem won't return. Anyhow, I'm incrementally adjusting the star wheel by 50 clicks on each side and with the truck in neutral the wheels turn and I work the brakes. Put it in drive and reverse working the brakes. So far so good. Now making smaller increments in adjustments. If anyone knows where I can find brand new backing plates and the proper wheel cylinder links it would be much appreciated. I can't find them. I even called Dorman and they have nothing. It's a 91 ten bolt, 30 spline, 6 lug axle. I found a disc brake kit for around 400 bucks, but I feared having to change out the proportioning valve and master cylinder. I don't know that I would, but am afraid to open that can of worms. Unless someone has did a rear disc conversion and can tell me otherwise. I'm just wanting my brakes to work properly. It's a rusty old truck that's my daily driver.
  22. Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
  23. Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008. I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming... good or bad experiences? Thanks in advance for the discussion.
  24. I have 2016 LTZ Suburban with magride, I want to upgrade it because there are three things which I don't like: 1) It has air shocks suspension which is not good for long life. The balloons is starting to leak air on 40 K miles and then it break the compressor. 2) Other thing is that this shock has magfuel, but it is also not good for long life. It is starting to leak magfuel on 70-80k miles. 3) And the price is too high for this short service life. I want to upgrade them for a longer service life with the same or better ride characteristics. And my question is what do you recommend as a replacement OEM MRC?
  25. Putting together a little Light guide similar to what MotoMedic did for the Silverados. More details to come on this with swaps and some photos (Scroll down a few posts). (Yukon and Yukon XL Only Low, High, fog, license and back-up apply as GMC has more OEM LED handling the others). Some of these may apply to 2014 model year but the bulb size is different like the 2014 Yukons. Tutorial videos (Courtesy of CarCareKiosk and some random dude on YouTube) reflect as: * Chevrolet ** GMC Side Note: OEM HID Color is approximately 4200-4300K. LuciasMaximus and I are playing around with color matching the factory LED DRL. The factory LED DRL appears to be between 5500K-6000K color wise. Suburban*/Tahoe*/Yukon**/Yukon XL**: Low Beam Lights w/HID*,** - D3S Low Beam Lights*,** - H11 (H11-55W) Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial ** High Beam Lights*,** - 9005 (HB3) Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial ** Front turn signal* - 7440NA Replace Front Turn Signal Bulb Tutorial * Fog Lights*,** - PSX26W - (12278 / 12278C1 / H28W) Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial * Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial ** Back-up Lights / Reverse Lights*,** - 921 (921W / W16W) Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial * Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial ** License Plate Lights*,** - 194 (194W / 12961) Replace License Plate Bulb Tutorial *, ** (Starts at 0:30) Rear Turn/Stop Lights* - 7440 (7440W) Replace Rear Turn/Stop Bulbs Tutorial *
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