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Found 39 results

  1. i have an 08 chevy silverado 2500hd with the 6.6l duramax. The issue I am having is that the bolt that connects the intermediate shaft to the column shaft keeps rubbing against the bracket for the column. To resolve the issue temporarily I can reach under and collapse or push the intermediate shaft back down thus backing the bolt down and it stops temporarily. I have replaced the intermediate shaft and it has changed nothing. I have attached a photo to show what I am dealing with. The yellow arrow is the bolt that keeps rubbing on the bracket that the red arrow is pointing at. The purple arrow is the direction the shaft keeps sliding up towards the steering wheel. When it slides up it causes the steering to lock. Any help?
  2. Hello all, I’m sorry if this isn’t posted in the right section but I couldn’t find any results for the problem I’m having. So a little bit of back story.... I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 2wd with 180,xxx miles on it, It’s a good old girl. I recently had a lot of work done to the front end, new rack and pinion assembly, new coils, shocks, spindles, new ucas, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends. I had a shop install on the parts because I don’t have a driveway to work in right now. All the parts replaced were stock oem parts, so well worn out. The truck rides great now much more controlled and steering feel is firm. But I noticed there is about an inch of free play in the steering wheel ( no resistance, no moving the wheel in the free play). What do y’all think it could be? I checked the intermediate steering shaft for play and it is moving with the u-joint at the rack and pinion. Can the gear box be adjusted? Thank y’all for your insight. I don’t just want to fire the parts cannon in vain. Again thank you for all the help!
  3. Had to take my truck in to have some issues addressed. One of the items on that list was steering wheel groan or creak when turning lock-to-lock. The best way i can describe it is, when you turn the steering wheel to a lock at one end, as you start turning it back, there is this groan/creak sound. Funny enough, the loaner i had also exhibited the same issue so i feared it might come back as operating as designed. It turns out this was due to a noisy steering shaft seal. They refitted the seal and the noise is gone. If you are experiencing this and it's bugging you, it's not operating as intended and you should get it fixed.
  4. I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
  5. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew Cab with the standard bed. I have the Rancho Quick-Lift front struts for the front that level the front about 2-1/4". I am looking at adding an additional 1" of lift front and rear. The rear will be either blocks or an add-a-leaf kit. The front will be done with strut spacers while also adding Upper Control Arms and a 3/4" differential drop kit to keep the upper ball joints and CV joints within factory specs. I am looking for something to help with the lower control arms, steering links, and sway bar end links or drop brackets to keep the rest of the suspension geometry in alignment. Does anyone have any sources for any of these components besides fabricating them?
  6. When I turn my steering wheel on my 2014 Silverado 1500 it makes a clicking noise. I can feel it in my steering wheel so I know it’s not coming from anywhere else except either something on the steering column or steering wheel.
  7. I first noticed a death wobble at 35-40 mph other than that it is good. I jacked up the front end and i have alot of play left and right but tight up and down. It seems like my idler arm has play and my steering box has some play. My idler arm, pitman arm, inner and outer tie rods are less than a year old. Wondering if it is steering link or steering box. I need ideas. Truck is a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 lt
  8. Hello everyone this is my first post. I drive a 2005 Sierra Denali with 170K miles the vehicle is stock. Today while taking a turn at an intersection I experienced TOTAL STEERING LOSS and ended up in a snowbank! No injuries or damages to the vehicle, besides my ego and eventually my wallet. The steering wheel completely disconnected from the wheels and drive train. After doing a small amount of research I believe this is a fairly rare occurrence. I am very surprised that this could occur under normal driving conditions. Anyone else experience this of have heard of a similar situation?
  9. I posted this in the 40 page thread but wanted to get a new look so I copied it here. I have a 2017 Denali 3500HD with "loose" steering. I don't usually give my resume' but I think it is relative to this subject. For 12 years I was a professional test driver at a major competitor to GM. I worked in the suspension development group at a proving ground testing and tuning shocks, spring rates, stabilizer bars, tires, etc. My job was to dial in just the right amount of comfort vs handling vs steering response and feel. Why is this important? Because I am 100% confident I know what is causing my "loose" steering. The problem is the digital steering assist tuning. Although there is a documented issue with some steering gear boxes, the "loose" steering in my vehicle is not from any mechanical problems with the gear box. Please understand that I did not say no one has a gear box problem. I am simple saying that GM has more than 1 issue due to poor steering feel. The problem with my truck has nothing to do with anything being "loose". Here is the proof. At all speeds below 45 mph the steering feels fine. At speeds above 75 mph the steering feels fine. If something was loose or wrong with my gear box or other mechanical steering component the problem would not magically go away below 45 mph and above 75mph. In fact, with almost any kind on mechanical "loose" steering component the problem would be perceived as worse with most increases in speed. For folks with "loose" steering try this. Pick a long straight level road. Drive straight at 40 mph with the steering wheel straight. Concentrate on the amount of effort (torque) it takes to turn the wheel 1 degree, 2 degrees, 3 degrees etc up to 10 degrees. These are small movements of the wheel but you feel immediate effort required to turn the wheel these small amounts at speeds below 45 mph. At 1 and 2 degrees of steering wheel movement there is effort but little to no vehicle response or yaw. This effort is a "feedback" (although artificial and in the suspension tuning world effort is not necessarily feedback but for the sack of keeping it simple let's just go with that) to the driver about what is happening to the steering system and vehicle. Now try this same procedure at 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 mph. Does the effort required to move the steering wheel these small amounts start to increase at 74, 75, 76, 77 mph? If so, you have a poorly tuned digital assist system. In my vehicle the worst speeds are 60-70 mph. At these speed the initial 0-5 degrees of steering wheel movement require almost zero effort. The digital steering is "over boosting" the required assist needed. At speeds above 75 mph, my vehicle "magically" fixes itself and the effort required to move the steering wheel increases dramatically. I have read through all 39 pages of posts. Some folks have described the exact problem I have. "Loose steering" between 45-75mph. Another fact is many have complained that their steering is no better after GM replaced multiple steering components including the gear box. GM needs to assign an engineer to retune the digital assist. I volunteer to help. I just need access to the ability to change the power steering assist levels through the digital steering. So GM if your reading this just look me up and I will help. I hope this helps others to identify their real steering problems. I also hope GM fixes this with a simply retune of the digital assist parameters. Mike P.
  10. Ive always had a moderate pull to the right when hands off the wheel. To drive straight, I have to hold the wheel about 1/2 inch turned to the left. I noticed the passenger right tire tread was chopped in irregular patterns, but they were old tires so I didn't care. I put off identifying and fixing the issue. I recently got the truck leveled and new, expensive AT tires. I got the truck aligned and was told it was "way misaligned," however the issue is still there, although a little better. I don't want to chop up these tires and want to be able to take my hands off the wheel and not start drifting right.Any ideas? Easy fix? Hard fix?FWIW, 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71. 144,xxx miles, everything all original. Now have new keys for the level and new 285/70/17 Toyo tires
  11. Hey all, Forgive my lack of technical terms when I describe this but I have been having an issue with steering lately. Whenever I turn backwards to the right at full lock like I keep getting a rubbing noise and a clicking. It feels like the truck is fighting itself to go backwards and it feels like the tire is trying to roll under itself . After going out and checking by the right tire and as you see in the picture below I have rubbing in these two parts. I was wondering if it was possible that the center link had been put in backwards causing this part to be misaligned? The last owner of the truck redid the whole front end so nothing is original. Any tips are appreciated!
  12. I am trying to figure out if it is possible to install a steering wheel from a 2007 Silverado into my 2000 Silverado. Reason for doing so is because (1) my brothers 2007 steering wheel is a lot more comfortable then the steering wheel I have in my truck and (2) it looks better. I am not here to have people hate on this. I may not even do this, but I am curious on if this will work or not. I have been attempting to do reasearch, however I am finding nothing, so: Will the 2007 steering wheel be able to be installed into the 2000? Will the airbag harness of the 2000 connect to the airbag of the 2007? Will the 2007 airbag have issues being connected to a 2000? I know there is a large difference in years. I am just curious as it was simple to swap the front end of my 2000 with a 2004.
  13. In regards to leveling these new GMCs (mine: 2018) is there a definitive answer on what the issues are? And specifically how to avoid the issue? I have fine tooth combed every forum possible and it’s like throwing darts drunk. I've heard it'll blow out the ball joints, the electronic steering gear, tie rod ends, etc. I've heard don't go over 1.75", don't go over 2.5", and even 2.25" is the limit before you'll have issues. I've heard it's from installation errors... Like no support under control arm when you knock the knuckle to separate the ball joint and the sudden drop/slack causes damage. I've heard if you don't disconnect the electronic power steering harnesses or battery the shock from separating the ball joint can cause a spark that damages the EPS. I've talked to multiple 4x4 shops that install these and most say they've done hundreds/thousands with no issues, which of course I doubt. It's just too widespread of an issue. So does anyone know the secret recipe to a level kit that won't screw up the front end on these new GMCs? Is there anyone out there that's put a substantial amount of miles (25k or more) with their level kit with out the clicking, popping, etc? Sorry to beat a dead horse.
  14. Hi I've been trying to replace the pitman arm on my gmc Sierra 2500hd for several days now. I'm using the moog 4 master spline pitman arm and no matter what I try it will not go any further on the steering box there is about a 1 inch gap between the pitman arm and the steering box. I know this has been discussed before but I cannot find anything to help with this problem. Any advice will be appreciated
  15. Anyone with a 2017/18 who went the Bilstein route and had the steering popping noise? Seems this is the preferred and safest option. I've kinda made my mind up to go with Bilsteins instead of spacers due to the fact that I've read numerous cases of steering issues with spacers. Just figured I'd feel the water before jumping in. Thanks!
  16. Hey everyone... recently switched from a f150 to my 2018 elevation, love the truck so far but wana do some mods.. This post will be mainly on swapping the factory steering wheel to a leather one with volume control (gota have it lol) I got the base model in the pic below and just looking, who knows how to swap it and what it take to get it done. Also is it simply plug and play or will the car need to be reprogrammed to allow the controls to work with the radio. On another note if anyone has a good spot to get parts let me know. I got a few other projects I plan on doing such as Rear sear replacement from the bench to a 60/40 Leatherseats.com replacements (after the bench replace) Tint (anyone got good brand reviews or experiences?) Possible change from flip front sear to consul (big job and expensive lol) I hope some one on here can help ill be sure to post pics as I get the project going.
  17. I am looking at tackling the infamous steering rattle in my 2011 2500HD. I plan on replacing both the intermediate shaft and the steering column bearing. I have located the shaft online, but am not sure if the column bearing Part # 905-512 will fit my truck. Everything online says no. Any recommendations? Thanks, Mike
  18. Everytime i turn on my truck i get a message saying ,"steering assist reduced drive with care" I took it to the dealer but they didnt want to work on it sence its lifted and all of the warranty is voided. Sounds like bs to me?? Any one with similar issue ?!?!? Its a 2017 silverado z71
  19. I know my truck came with Bilstien shocks and I bet GM didn't pay retail for them either! IS there a shock BESIDES Bilstien that will do the job? What's wrong with the usual Monroe, and others?
  20. I live in New York and this morning the temp read 16 degrees in the truck. I noticed the steering was noticeably stiffer. Even after a 10 minute remote start and 15 minutes of driving it continued to feel this way. When I left work in the late afternoon is was 26 degrees and the steering felt the same as it did in the morning. I've lived in NY my whole life and never experienced this in any other car I've owned. Being it's my first winter with my truck I have to ask-does anyone else experience this or is my issue completely unrelated to the weather?
  21. Hey guys (and gals), it's been a while since I've checked in. My 2001 2500 got new front suspension pieces, and now I'm having issues getting it to stay aligned, and the suspension seems to be awfully stiff. I replaced all the pieces myself, so I easily suspect I did something wrong. First off, let's start with the alignment (at least the toe). I replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, and both tie rod ends with new ball joints. The power steering gearbox was also replaced at the same time. Ever since then, I can't get the alignment to line up and stay. I can get it close (by eye at least), and then as soon as I drive around the block, it's completely off when I get back in the driveway. Has anyone ever run across this issue before? I can keep the steering wheel straight and get the toe to almost dead straight, but once I drive it the steering wheel isn't straight anymore. I want to see if I can at least get it close to straight before I take it to an alignment shop. I've also noticed that when I turn the wheel to the left, the left side of the truck dips down. Turning to the right causes the right side to dip down. I'm talking at least an inch or 2 as soon as you turn the wheel. Shouldn't it be able to turn sitting in the driveway without affecting the ride height? Second, the suspension seems to be really stiff. The items replaced were complete upper control arms (new bushings and ball joints installed) and lower ball joints. I have brand new shocks installed, but it feels like the front has no shocks at all when going over rolling bumps. It bounced so much that it broke one of the front sway bar end links, most likely the other one as well. Not sure what else to report on this side, I'm afraid to drive it much with the steering being so all over the place. If anyone has any advice, I would greatly appreciate it. If pictures would help, let me know what specific areas you would like a picture of. Thanks!
  22. Hey there, i wanna know if im able to upgrade my steering wheel from my silverado 1500 to the leather, stitched, heated wheel that you find in the LTZ / Z71 trucks. If there is a way lemme know step by step how to do it! thanks
  23. Last month I replaced idler arm and bracket, pitman arm and inner and outer tie rods. Immediately I found the steering to be incredibly stiff. Not as stiff as not having power steering but it requires some effort to turn the wheel. I put the truck back on the hoist to inspect all components. I removed the idler arm and bracket and found the idler arm would not turn on the bracket without alot of force. To get it to move I have to put it on the bench and put all my body weight into it to get it to move. I moved it back and forth several times and reinstalled in the truck. It was still really tight but maybe not as bad as before. I took the truck for an alignment and it seemed marginally better after the alignment. The shop told be it it's common to be a bit stiff when new but will wear in. I've now put about 1000km on the truck and its a bitch to drive. Wheel still will not return to center and very stiff to turn, It's even a bit jerky at hwy speeds as it takes a bit of force to get it to move. I'm leaning towards a defective idler bracket. I've tried to contact Moog (manufacturer of the part) to get me some spec on resistance but so far now luck in that department. Before I actually try and warenttee this part is there anything else I could be missing here. A bit more info on the install - Similar to may others experiences my pitman arm did not seat as far up on the splines as the original this pushes the center link a little lower on the drivers side than originally from the factory - All parts are Moog, pitman and idler are HD versions, this is not an HD truck. when comparing the original pitman and idler arms the angles all seem to be the same or very very close to the originals. From what I can gather the HD is just a beefier version. - Parts were replaced as there was play in the pitman and idler causing the center link to move up and down. I also had one inner tie rod that was bad. - Steering was not stiff before changing parts Vehicle: 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. 5.3
  24. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 8-7-2017 Back when electronic, or electric, steering replaced hydraulic assist, many drivers worried that if the electric motor that adds the power steering input was suddenly disabled the vehicle would lose control. Manufacturers poo-pood safety concerns, calling the new systems "fail-safe." Today, GM has announced a huge recall of about three-quarters of a million 2014 model year Silverado and SIerra pickups because the electronic steering may fail and the driver may lose steering control, possibly leading to a crash. - Background on GM electric power steering here. The NHTSA recall website explains the problem, saying, "The vehicles may have a temporary loss of electric power steering (EPS) assist, especially during low-speed turning maneuvers." The result is explained as well, as, "If EPS assist is lost and then returns, the driver might lose temporary control of the steering wheel, increasing the risk of a crash." GM will follow the law and notify all owners of the problem by snail mail. However, like all manufacturers, GM has a recall lookup website. You can access it here. The plan is for GM dealers to simply update software. There is no mechanical problem according to the information provided. - Please, check out one of members' excellent background story on this topic in the comments below. Thanks 97 Sierra SLT!
  25. Can anyone identify the leveling kit used on my new (to me) 2014 Silverado 5.3l? Height in the front is 40.1" and height in back is 39.4". I believe the prior owner installed a leveling kit, but I don't know how to identify it. Can you please assist? Below is a picture of the driver side strut.
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