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Found 40 results

  1. Anyone know how difficult it would be to upgrade the rear view mirror? My trail boss came with a "dumb" mirror. No auto dim, no compass, no onstar, no temp read out, nothing. I'd like to at least have auto dimming, compass, and temp read out. Rear view mirror camera would nice too. Is there any chance that the wiring is already there for it and I just need to simply replace the mirror and plug it in? I've seen a lot of aftermarket options and some of them look pretty neat, but for the most part they attach to the existing mirror and I'd like to find something that is as close as possible to stock looking. Thanks!
  2. Hey everybody, Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade! Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod. If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things. Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.) Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below. MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below. COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster. Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay. Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once. Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
  3. See a lot of questions asked about this and not a lot of set info on the upgrade. Hope this helps even anyone trying to set it up. **READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WATCH ALL VIDEOS PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING PURCHASING OR INSTALLATION** Apple CarPlay / Android Auto functionality is not supported in any 2014-2015 (Many 2016) Silverado/Sierra’s. This is due to neither application being available from Google or Apple when these vehicles being built, therefore not an available option during these model years. The following instructions are designed to simplify the process as much as possible. Three things are required for this upgrade (ONE) Radio Module, (ONE) HMI Module, and (ONE) USB Hub 2016+. Search around for the modules, they are available for purchase from many different locations. EBay, totaled vehicles, junkyards, or other various websites to find them. AGAIN, if the part numbers are not listed below DO NOT purchase them. It is highly encouraged to not try and cut corners with purchasing part numbers of modules not listed as they cannot be flashed to work properly. **DISCONNECT THE BATTERY PRIOR TO INSTALLING FRESHLY UPDATED MODULES** TOOLS REQUIRED: Trim Removal tool 10 mm Socket 7 mm Socket PARTS REQUIRED USB HUB P/N 13519224 (BLACK) P/N 13509943 (WHITE) HMI Module USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84006103 84048396 84096817 84156701 81431943 84296482 USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84096815 84156699 84131941 84296480 84004948 84048398 84131941 84296480 RADIO MODULE USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84062073 84293226 13506371 23402903 USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 13506387 23402909 84062056 84293243 Once acquiring the parts you can now send them to be flashed. These modules will be flashed to your VIN and will then be plug and play. Copy the link and follow the prompts. http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=98&category_id=44&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54 If you have followed all the directions up and to this point, select yes for hardware match. You can chose if you would like the maps updated on your NAV if you so choose. You will be emailed your order number from WAMS, this is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. You will be required to ship your parts either FedEx or UPS, they will not accept packages from USPS. You will need to write your order number on the box to ensure your order is properly handled. Turn around is approximately one week from shipment to return. ONLY ship your (ONE) Radio Module and (ONE) HMI Module. Maintain your USB Hub. Once you have received your parts from WAMS you can begin installation. Disconnect your battery prior to installation. To install the radio module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2MYuuyqLrs. For the purpose of this install start the video at 1:00. Stop the video at 2:04, the radio module is visible with a green connector on the far left. Simply begin disconnecting all of the connectors plugged into the module, once all are removed you can slide the module out of the dash. It is retained only by the tension of the cables plugged into it. Replace with your new module, you can now continue the video and finish putting the dash back together. Stop the video at 4:10. To install the HMI Module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFe2gwlOsD4. Stop the video at 2:00. The module being described behind the crossbar is what you are replacing. Remove all connectors, the module is retained with a plastic clip on top. Installing the module along with the glove box, is self explanatory. Take note of the plastic tabs on the sides of the USB Hub you are preparing to install. Those tabs can be depressed with a dental pick and gradually removed out of place. Once removed, disconnect the harness and reconnect. Installation is now complete. You can now reconnect your battery and start your vehicle. Initial start up might take a few seconds to initialize, and temperature defaulting to 32 degrees is normal. Android Auto and Apple CarPlay require hardwire connection, so to test functionality it needs to be connected to the newly installed USB hub. MVI Inc (https://www.gm-navigation.com/) offers kits and other customization options if the above is not something you feel comfortable acquiring on your own. Hope this helps, should be pretty cut and dry. There might be other methods, but this was the cheapest I discovered. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.
  4. I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 and my key fob only has the lock/unlock, and the panic button on it. I saw that the official Chevy accessories page has the key fobs with remote start, tail gate unlock on them as well. If I get one, will I be able to have the dealership program it on my current truck so I can have remote start or is this only for replacement for owners that already have the same key fob? 5 Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Part No. 84312372 https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/2019/Chevrolet/Silverado 1500/5-button-keyless-entry-remote-key-fob-84312372?categoryId=12001 Thanks much!
  5. Hello, I’m new to this so please bare with me. I have a 2018 Silverado LT With DL8 Mirrors And I just purchased the DL3 Mirrors Online. I connected the driver side mirror to the factory switch harness and the only function I’m getting from it is the mirror adjustment settings. The problem I’m having is that the turn signal and puddle lights are not working. im hoping to get some advice, I’m not worried about making it look nice I just really would like to get it to work. I came to think that if I were to tap into the power wire in the mirror harness for the mirror turn signal, and possibly run a wire from there to To the headlight turn signal wire harness that would get it to work? Then maybe run a wire from puddle light but run that to something that turns on when the doors are unlocked? The problem is I’m worried that it might be pushing too much power to the mirror and blow something out? if that can work I’m not sure witch wires in the mirror harness to tap into? I can’t find anything online showing what wires do what? Thanks!
  6. I am trying to install courtesy lights with the GMC logo on my 2008 Sierra but after getting the first one drilled I realized there is not a light in the reflector on the door. Can anyone provide the related diagram for the wiring within the door / does anyone know if any of the door lights are only activated when the door is opened so that I can tie into those wires? It's a crew cab so I will be attempting to install them on all four doors. TIA.
  7. For Members with Factory Rancho shocks on your K2, Do you still have them and Like/Love them or Have you ditched and upgraded to New Shocks?
  8. I’m starting to consider a replacement battery for my 2015 6.2L High Country 1500. It has the 94R type battery, I believe. I have looked over the threads I could find with the search function without any specific results. One type that came up in a few of the threads is the XS Power brand, but there is not a recommendation for which series is most desirable. I also wasn’t able to find one in 94R. it seems that the majority of newer batteries have lower CCA than I recall in older “heavy duty” batteries. I’ve bought 1000 CCA batteries in the past, but now 800 -850 seems to be about the highest. The new Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries may be more efficient and therefore can operate reliably with less CCAs, I don’t know. My truck has to be relied upon in rural, cold weather situations, I need a strong, long life battery. That said, my questions are; Exactly which replacement battery have you used? What is good/bad about it and why? What would recommend for an extreme duty battery? What else would you recommend replacing? -I don’t know if these trucks need the “Big 3” replacement -my alternator is functioning within normal limits, but I’m open to replacement options as needed. -my cables seem clean, undamaged and corrosion free.
  9. My parked 2018 got swiped light bumper damage... insurance quote is over 1200 want to upgrade the bumper in the process... but cant tell what looks good on a stock truck... any suggestions?
  10. Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
  11. Possible cause of DTC P0777 for a 6L80 transmission - especially after a re-build, upgrade, or maintenance of the valve body (a chapter from my upcoming book, "Learn from my mistakes!") Here's the context: 2007 GMC Yukon Denali 6L80 Transmission (Early, 1st Design, original equipment, no prior work or refurbishment actions taken on this transmission/valve body/TEHCM (TCM) - just trans fluid change and filter change) 195,000 miles (not bad, eh?) 6.2 Liter L92 engine (Original Equipment, no serious work has ever been needed, never rebuilt - just well maintained) Vehicle is - from an interior perspective - 95% 'new'. I've spent the last couple of years restoring it. I've spent time and money on everything from new carpets to a new dashboard, HVAC assembly (in-dash), new seats, new seat motors, new windshield, new everything, for the most part I've done all this work myself. I've built up quite a tool collection and quite a bit of knowledge I work in the world of IT (Digital Experience Strategy for large and medium-sized companies) Being in this field of IT means I work all day in a world of total ambiguity and chaos where nothing is ever cut and dry and the options, ideas, and risks are endless...as are the personalities I deal with. Working on my vehicle - along with vehicle's owned by friends and family aware of my growing skill-set - provides me a level of calm and relaxation I can't find elsewhere How This Story Originates: In the last 4 to 6 months, I've noticed the transmission exhibiting a moderate 'clunk' when - IMO - it is shifting down from 3rd gear to 2nd gear, or during any low-load, low-RPM upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear. This happens only when there is low RPM / low 'Load' on the engine...followed by a quick increase in requested 'load'. For context, a situation wherein it commonly happens is during a slow-down at a stop light and my intentions are to turn right. I.e., 'right on red' with a slow, cautious crawl for safety. Assume no cars / traffic to negotiate (for simplicity). I'd say I'd be going at about 10 to 15 miles per hour...perhaps as much as 20 to 25 miles per hour...from a pre-braking speed of ~30 to 40 mph. I would take my foot off the accelerator about 100 to 150 feet before the red light and apply light braking. Once I'm in a position to begin my right turn safely, I would take my foot from the brake and apply ~30% to 50% throttle on the accelerator. At this point wherein I engage the throttle, it seems as if the transmission doesn't know which gear to be in. While it only takes about a second, it eventually chooses 2nd gear but in the process it makes a noticeable 'clunk'. To mitigate this 'clunk' I usually try to feather the throttle up a little bit before I'm about to release the brake (i.e., 2 - footed driving). Slowly getting the RPM's up above 1,000 before starting my right turn and releasing the brake seems to negate the clunk. I've also noticed this clunk never really occurs until the transmission fluid temperature reaches about 110 (or above) Fahrenheit ( + /- 10 degrees). All other gear shifts in all other situations are rather comfortable and exhibit no observable issues. The transmission (nor the engine) never produces any DTC codes. Using a capable scan tool to reset the Trans Adapts and manually doing the Garage Shift procedure doesn't result in a 'fix'. Neither has anything else I've tried. I have not - to this day - ever tried doing a "Service Fast Learn". This is a procedure only incorporated into a few of the highly expensive scan tools such as the OE Tech2 and the Snap-On. My Autel Maxisys Elite definitely doesn't have this special function. One of these day's I'll have this procedure done by the Dealer or someone with a capable tool. Last weekend, I decided to install a Sonnax Zip Kit for the 6L80. My thought process was that the temperature increase of the trans fluid was a key indicator and gave me good direction. I was thinking pressure was being lost when the internal components of the valve body heated up to a certain point and expanded ever-so-slightly...we're talking a thousandth or so of a millimeter in various places throughout the valve body veins / assembly...but enough where some trans fluid pressure was being lost in key areas and causing the resulting clunk. Because the valves themselves were a different metal (and some of them a type of polymer / plastic) and probably not expanding like the valve body casing, I figured this was a good enough hypothesis to start working against. The Troubles Begin.... To make a long story shorter for you TLDR-er's, the Zip Kit is now installed and the shifting concerns seem alleviated. I'll give it another couple weeks to make a full conclusion, however. But the big story I wanted to share was about a mistake I made during the installation of the Zip Kit...but I imagine it could happen during any valve body refurbishment, upgrade, or maintenance. It has nothing to do with the Zip Kit itself. The Zip Kit was well manufactured and has fantastic instructions...with pictures too! The Zip Kit installation - plus a desire to inspect and clean all valves - simply gave me the opportunity to make the massive screw-up which occurred. So to help out fellow techs or DIY'ers who may experience this in the future, I have attached a summary pictorial explaining what I did and what it caused...along with the now-obvious solution. Initial Start-up and Test Post-Cleaning, Assembly, Refurbishment - aka, "The Crucible": What should have taken just about 3 hours to complete ended up taking 4 days. After putting everything back together the first time, I started the vehicle. I left it in Park for about five minutes. No unusual noises, no "Check Engine" lights. Normal oil pressure, normal slow rise in trans fluid temperature. Normal idle RPM's. I shifted from Park to Reverse and back to Park - allowing about 3 seconds between each move. This was an effort to flush air out of the veins/pump which may have accumulated during the overnight hours (I started this job in the evening but didn't re-install the valve body and other components until the next morning.) I then shifted from Park to Drive. I expected - as one usually does - to feel the torque and the car's desire to move forward. But no, there was no forward engagement whatsoever. I then shifted back to Park and let it sit for a minute. I shifted to Reverse - no reverse engagement. I left it in Reverse for 5 to 10 seconds thinking it will engage once the 'air is pushed out from the pump and valve body veins'...and that's when the Check Engine light came on. Silly me. I put it back in Park. I figured, let's try this again...maybe it was a solar flare or perhaps CNN is talking about Mueller again... Nope - same bad result - no forward, no reverse, not even the sound of it trying to engage. From Drive I was moving the shift lever back towards Park...and during that time I stopped briefly at Neutral. A faint squeal noise was observed from the transmission. Knowing that a squeal noise coming from a transmission is not SKOOKUM (h/t Ave on YouTube - one of my all-time favorites), I left it in Park and shut the engine off. Exhausted, bewildered, and full of self-doubt, I removed the valve body and TEHCM two more times. For anyone familiar with accessing the transmission valve body on a 2007 - 2013 Yukon (and perhaps 2014 and beyond), you know it's not easy. Each time, the catalytic converters need to be moved / dropped. This means the O2 sensors need to be removed, the front drive shaft needs to be undone and moved off to the side a bit, the front right wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed, etc. etc. ....in addition to draining the trans fluid oil and making a mess of your garage floor and yourself. I did this without a lift...only a jack and jack stands...making me ache and strain in ways I haven't felt in years. Note to DIY's...it takes the catalytic converters a bit more time than you think in order to cool down to a manageable level...ask me how I know. Each time I went over the instructions for the Zip Kit step-by-step to make sure I put the pieces where they were supposed to go. Each time I questioned most everything about how I put things back together - were the seals matching up correctly? Were the electronics / wires completely connected? Were there any green fuzzies on the main connector going from the outside of the trans and into the transmission case? Were there any cut or broken wires I didn't notice or failed to inspect? Each time I examined every piece that I had touched and questioned everything!...or so I thought. The struggle was REAL! Approximately 8 liters of new Dexron VI ATF - along with both hands, the right side of my jaw, and my lower back - were abused in the process of this event. The Cause: In short, during the re-assembly of valves which I had removed for cleaning, I put two of them in backwards. When they were first re-installed, they seemed to fit and it appeared how I re-installed them was exactly how I took them out. But I was incredibly wrong on both points. It wasn't until I noticed the ATSG manual's depiction of the valve body assembly diagrams - and comparing them to how I had re-installed my valves - that I finally realized the reasons for DTC's p0777 and p0700 suddenly appearing. For SEO, (but explained in the pictorial), I'll simply say that DTC p0777 is "Clutch Pressure Control (CPC) Solenoid 2, Stuck ON" and was the only result post-assembly and start-up. However in the end there was nothing wrong with solenoid 2 whatsoever. The TCM/ECU only threw that code because the situation matched the DTC p0777 trigger conditions. At that point I was really close to spending ~ $600 bucks on a new TEHCM...and that's when I noticed I had installed Clutch Select Valve 2 and Clutch Select Valve 3 backwards. THANK THE GOOD PEOPLE AT ATSG WHO MAKE GOOD TRANSMISSION MANUALS..SPECIFICALLY THE DIAGRAMS (if only they were in color, btw.) Now getting people to read carefully...a different story , of course. I couldn't find too much on DTC P0777, so I suppose it's rare. But if you ever come across this DTC or other "solenoid stuck", "solenoid failed" types of codes - and especially if you've just completed a refurbishing / cleaning / Zip-Kit installation on your valve body - take triple notice of how you reassembled and re-installed those valves....ALL OF THEM! Thanks for your time, Jeff Alpharetta, GA
  12. Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help.
  13. I have a 2014 1500 LTZ and was looking to upgrade to something with Apple car play. I took it to a local shop this week and got my truck back yesterday and I’m disappointed with what they put in, on my drive home unit shut off twice and is laggy. Was a pioneer brand unit. I’m going to be requesting they remove it, Any suggestions what I can swap too? I’d like to retain my factory mic and usb functions as I lost those with the unit they recommended. I was looking at this not sure on quality though. Thanks! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stereo-12-1-Android-Vertical-Screen-Chevrolet-Silverado-2014-2018-Nav-Radio-GPS/173781842298?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3Dbdb1e22d8bb44a738f1309a120affa2d%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D282219624979%26itm%3D173781842298&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276
  14. Hi all. New member here. Feels great to come back from the "dark side". After owning and loving my 07 Tahoe LT3 and then having a horrible experience with an 09 Tundra, I finally landed in the drivers seat of my lovely 15 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain. Ive looked through the various options and lurked on the forums for a while and I cant seem to find a solution to my problem that fits my needs. I'm aware of the kicker audio upgrades for the sierra, and custom (or pre-made) enclosures for under the rear seat. Unfortunately since I use my vehicle for work and frequently have expensive audio/visual equipment in the rear of my truck, a rear seat enclosure isn't an option. While bose is a love hate brand, I had no issues with the stock bose system in my 07 Tahoe. The stereo in my all terrain is decent, but I would love a little low end grunt. I am aware of the dual voice coil nature of the bose sub, if you would even call it one. Has anyone added the center console bose enclosure to a non-bose truck with the center console? Is it possible? Thanks
  15. So I just got a 2016 Silverado (specs in sig.) and wanted to upgrade the audio and not bust the bank. So here is my list of parts prices links where I got it, and some pictures of the install. Sundown Audio SA-2.75FR 2.75" speakers for the front dash. $69.99 2 Pair Kicker 40CS674 6.75" 2 way coaxial speakers for front and rear doors. $99.99 Metra 82-3005 Speaker adapter for front doors. $12.00 Scosche SAGMHR634B Spekaer adapter for rear door $10.99 Noico 50 mil Sound deadening material $36.90 uxcell Car Sound Deadener Application Rolling Wheel $6.25 So far I have $236.12 in the upgrade and I am very happy so far. My future upgrade will be a sub. Here are the components I planned to use. Kicker 40CWRT101 CompRT 10" Sub $104.99 Kicker 43CXA3001 600 Watt amp $119.99 Kicker 43CXARC Bass Remote Control $20.98 Soudoffaudio Single Deep Sub Box Passenger Side in Cocoa Color $140 Which brings the Sub install to : $385.96 and a grand total of $622.08 That is a little more than the factor Bose upgrade but it is going to sound way better. IMHO Here is pictures of the factory dash speakers. Here is an up close picture of the back of the factory dash speaker. Here is a side-by-side of the factory and the Sundown replacement speakers Here is pictures of the Sundown speakers installed. Here is a picture of the front door completely stripped. Side-by-side of the factor front door speakers and the Kicker replacements. Picture of the sound deadening material installed and then one of the speaker installed. Here is a picture of the factory Rear door speaker installed. Here is picture of the rear door stripped with some of the sound deadening installed. Side-by-side of the factory rear door speaker and the kicker replacement. Here is a picture of the rear speakers installed.
  16. I decided after a week of having the Crew that the factory non-Bose system really sucks. I will be installing an Audio Control LC6i to convert the factory signals over to RCA. I am running 2 Rockford amps, a Power T400-4 for the doors, and a Power T400-2 for the sub. The door speakers are Rockford P1675 3-ways in the front doors, and P165 2-ways in the rear doors. I am using a single 12" Rockford P3SD4 under the driver's side rear seat in a Subthump box. (http://subthump.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_72&products_id=457) The power and ground will be Lightning Audio 1/0 gauge to the back, and then 4 gauge to the amps. Running 12 gauge speaker wire to all. I'm going to try leaving the dash speakers hooked up to the factory outputs, just to have some fill in up front. Lots of install pics to come.
  17. Hey guys, I want to work on my truck and upgrade it but i dont know what i should do. What are some things you have done to your engine and drive train to enhance performance and add durability? *I drive a 2014 LTZ 5.3
  18. looking to see if its possible to upgrade ac module to a digital one. if its an easy switch with no extra work
  19. Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
  20. Hey all, I have a 2017 LT 5.3 Z71 that just turned over 10k miles. I've never had a truck under warranty so I haven't jumped into many mods yet (did an intake tube and hoping for an exhaust soon though). Trucks/jeeps I've had in the past I've upgraded the transmission pan to hold more fluid/cool better, on my Tahoe I did the same to the rear differential cover for toughness and cooling ability. I've never had a new truck but plan on holding onto it for a long time so my thoughts are longevity/preventative/bulletproofing the drivetrain. Anyone have thoughts/experience/opinions? Thanks!
  21. I just bought my first newish truck, being the 2014 Silverado 2wd z71 lt. It’s got the crew cab with 5.3l under the hood. I’m currently stationed at ft Stewart ga. Im just looking for some help or some advice on some upgrades I’d like to do to this truck and which products might be the best. - I’d like to change the headlights and fog lights from stock. - Put a leveling kit and some new (bigger) a/t tires on it and not sure what size being 2wd. - Change to an aftermarket air intake. - Do something about the shitty stock speakers (without Bose). Wether it be new door speakers and sub(s). Or be just subs and have a separate amp just for door speakers. Do I need a processor to hook up to stock 8” head unit. - How do I add any app or navigation to this stock 8” head unit - Exhaust? - How to get more performance from the truck. Anything would help, Thanks
  22. I have a 2016 Silverado LT2 and do have the new style projector bulbs and LED running light strips in the reworked front end vs the 2015 style... but I like LED lights more than bulbs. Anyone have the smarts to have looked into it to know if the LTZ lights would plug and play into an LT? The LTZ has LED front signal lights and tail lights where the LT has bulbs. Not saying I will do it, but it would be nice to know if it's possible so my truck would have the same look as an LTZ. Thanks
  23. Hey guys. So I just bought an 03 1500 LS and I hate the look of the steering wheel. My buddy has an extra wheel from his 08 1500 (which I much prefer). Is there anyway of swapping the second gen wheel into my first gen? Thanks for your time.
  24. Hi, I'm relatively new here so forgive me if this has been covered. Does anyone here know the items required and the part numbers to upgrade the OnStar Nav radio (IO5) to the full Nav (IO6) system? I've seen where it's only a cable and in other places you need to get a number of parts. If anyone has any experience with this mod I would really appreciate as much info as possible so I can go ahead with this mod. Thanks ahead of time for any help and info.
  25. Hi I’m looking to install an electric lock mechanism to the tailgate of my 2015 Silverado 1500. I know that I can purchase an aftermarket one that comes with a wiring harness that runs to a relay that gets added under the hood..... Does anyone know if there is already wiring at or near the tailgate, say at a plug under the bed for plug and play. Im thinking there might be one there from the factory. Or do they only run the wiring back on trucks that come with the lock from the factory? thanks Glen
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