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Looking for what else you guys recommend to replace. I Noticed one of my tie rod grease boots was busted, planning to replace both inner and outer tie rods, sway bay end link, sway bar bushings. Anything else while I’m under there and have to get an alignment? Mileage is at 78,000 miles. Looking to use MOOG parts. Running 33’s so if anyone else has upgraded to something beefier let me know!

Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?

So recently I cracked the bell housing to my transmission and it lost all the oil, so I’ve been looking at good used transmissions. My question is what years are compatible with the 2006s? I’ve heard the plugs vary year to year making some incompatible with different years. Any advice would be awesome.

I am replacing the steering position sensor in a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500. The new sensor is offset about 15-20 degrees from the old one. That said, I can't line up the pin without moving the inner gear. Is it a problem with the sensor? Can I adjust it and make it fit? Help!!! My steering column is sitting on the front seat! Thanks, Nimrod

Hi all, Im new to this forum. I apologize if my post is in the wrong place. I have a 2003 Chev Suburban 1500 2wd 5.3 Flex Fuel Vin:Z with 180K miles. Problem: At present my finances, thus my diy attempt. Problem with Vehicle: Over a period of months my air conditioner slowly became less and less cool. I see refrigerant bubbling from Low Pressure Service Port and feel air pressure against my finger when covering the High Side Service Port. At the time my vehicle never stayed parked long enough (teens) to do any further checking. Now they have their own vehicle, time to see about my AC. I connected the manifold hoses and the system has no refrigerant in it, as I suspected once the compressor didnt try to cycle on any longer when turning on the ac. I researched “leakingAC service ports” and to my understanding GM’s ACs systems have faulty ball & flap style parts inside their service port housing that aren’t replaceable. However it is possible to purchase the housing which contain the ball and flap inside. By most accounts its a simple unscrew the old part and screw in replacement, just being careful to realize it unscrews in the center, and does not unscrew from the line itself. At the auto parts store I told them I need to replace both my High & Low side service ports and they showed a me a kit which contained both housings (the fatter high side port and slimmer Low side port, both have a threaded end for screwing in as a replacement) it also contained red and blue caps and schrader valve cores. This was where I should have questioned the reason for valve cores being in the kit but I thought it must be an either/or kind of kit but everything I read said “Replace the port housing because of the faulty GM ports leak after disconnecting the manifold couplings” So with my system empty already, I unscrew the High side port. Replace with the new one, screwed right in, fit well. Then tried the same with the Low side port. After several failed attempts to unscrew it, its now rounded off, bent and still hasn’t budged. My Question 1:Does the Low Pressure Service Port (near the dryer thats wrapped in foil near firewall) {its the port where refrigerant is recieved into the system} unscrew in the middle like the High Side port did, so that the upper housing of the port can be replaced?? Of course I have since seen the Low side port has a Schrader valve inside. Problem: Replacing Schrader valve may solve the leak problem BUT thats irrelevant when the system cant be recharged due to the manifold coupling not fitting well enough to seal because of the mangled upper half of the housing. 2: If it should unscrew, any suggestions what will loosen it? 3: If I have to replace the aluminum line where the low port is, what is the name of that line and should I replace anything else while Im at it bc Ive read some ppl say replace accumalator/dryer and orifice tube if the system is going to be opened at that point anyways? Any suggestions are appreciated I really messed up at first not paying attention if specific lines were referenced as I read about leaking AC service ports. Apparently most ppl experience with leaks are on the high side because when I tried to research specifically for the low side replacement, I can’t find anything about replacing the port housing, only the schrader valve, which has me thinking I might be looking at replacing the line due to my messing it up. I apologize about long post but wanted to go ahead and explain the long as the short might get more questions than answers. Also I have vacuum pump, and know how much refrigerant to recharge (134-A) just need to get Low pressure service port replaced if possible??

I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors. My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance. Symptoms/Diagnosis My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again. I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant. Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything? How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors? I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right. Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.

I decided after a week of having the Crew that the factory non-Bose system really sucks. I will be installing an Audio Control LC6i to convert the factory signals over to RCA. I am running 2 Rockford amps, a Power T400-4 for the doors, and a Power T400-2 for the sub. The door speakers are Rockford P1675 3-ways in the front doors, and P165 2-ways in the rear doors. I am using a single 12" Rockford P3SD4 under the driver's side rear seat in a Subthump box. (http://subthump.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_72&products_id=457) The power and ground will be Lightning Audio 1/0 gauge to the back, and then 4 gauge to the amps. Running 12 gauge speaker wire to all. I'm going to try leaving the dash speakers hooked up to the factory outputs, just to have some fill in up front. Lots of install pics to come.

I have an '04 Silverado Z71, and want to replace the stock tail light assemblies with new aftermarket assemblies. I want to retain the OEM incandescent bulbs, but want a clear lens. My OEM tail lights are cracked and have deteriorated to where they look like fogged lights, rather than a clean looking finish. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

So I was looking to replace my factory incandescent turn signal bulbs to led amber bulbs to make it brighter. However after buying the bulb that they have a direct replacement I encountered hyper flash and a faliure notice on the information display. On my older truck after replacing any bulbs to led all I had to do was add a resistor however after removing the front turn signal bulb on the 2017 Silverado I realized that it has no cables on the turn signal to add the resistor to, it's only a tab that you rotate to remove the bulb and has metal on it that I assume works the way the old wiring did. Has anyone replaced their bulbs with LEDs on 2016 or 2017 silverados that can help me out?

I am trying to replace the interior lighting in my Dad's truck for him since the stock lighting is so dim. There are 4 identical lights, two in the center ceiling console, and 2 in the front ceiling console. After going directly to the manufacturer to figure out what bulbs i needed to buy, they suggested the 921 Led Buld. This is not the correct bulb. Has anyone had any luck replacing these lights? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com The colder weather of winter can be punishing on your pickup’s battery. If your truck doesn't start with the same enthusiasm this spring as it did last fall, your battery is to blame. After two months of temperatures regularly below zero-degrees Fahrenheit, the stock battery in our Sierra was in rough shape. Even leaving a cell-phone charger plugged in overnight was too much for our old battery to handle. Luckily, changing your battery is one of the easiest pieces of maintenance to perform on your Silverado or Sierra. You can buy a new battery at any auto parts store and most large box stores. Consult with a compatibility chart or sales associate to ensure you purchase a compatible battery. Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery. Aside from the correct type, it’s important to note the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of your stock battery and buy a new battery that is at least equivalent. If you live in a cold region or have hooked up accessories to your battery, getting a higher CCA-rated battery is a great idea. Never buy a battery that is smaller or has a CCA rating that is lower than stock. Tools needed 13mm socket (battery hold down) 10mm socket (battery cables) ½-in socket (body bracing) 6-in socket extension Safety Glasses Mechanic’s Gloves Applicable Vehicles 2007-2015+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Time required 10-15 minutes Estimated Cost $150-175 depending on battery, not including refundable core charge Skills Required Beginner Technical Ability Able to lift 50lbs over shoulder height Warnings and Precautions Never allow a tool to connect the two battery terminals together Step One - Prepare The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Some vehicles have security codes or radio settings that need to be noted before disconnecting vehicle power. Step Two - Unscrew the engine bay bracing The battery in the older 2007-2013 body styles and newer 2014+ body styles are surrounded by bracing. While the designs are different, all model years require a 1/2-inch socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracing and set aside in a safe place. Step Three - Remove the battery hold down The battery is held in place by a single 13mm bolt and block. Simply unscrew the hold-down using a socket and the 6-inch extension, Set aside in a safe place. Step Four - Disconnect the old battery Now, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket. Be careful to remove the negative terminal first and never allow the positive and negative wires or terminals to touch. Step Five - Switch the old and new battery The battery weights around 40lbs, so make sure you are comfortable lifting this much weight to around shoulder height. Step Six - Reassemble in reverse order Simply reattach your battery, battery hold down, and engine bay bracing in the reverse order. Step Seven - Restore settings Replacing the battery will most likely reset your pickup’s clock, radio favorites and memory seat settings that you may have customized. Take a moment before you hit the road again to restore these settings in a safe place while parked.

Hey guys new to the forum and i'm not sure if this is the correct spot to post this. I'm looking for some information on a replacement part for my truck. I need to find a replacement wheel trim piece that fits my truck. I think I have narrowed it down the the correct one but there are two different "Designs" it says. 1st design and 2nd design does anyone know how to tell what the differences are? Here is a link to what I am looking at it's Part 4 on the exploded view Exterior Trim thanks in advance!!!

I did a search on here for replacing the engine computer and was surprised for not finding much ! We have an 05 Silverado with a 5.3 in it. The other evening, my wife went to see a friend and when it began to storm, she decided to leave. She went out and the truck was dead, no click, no crank. I went to get her and tried to jump start it (while it was still storming) and arcs came off of the negative terminal when the cable touched it. I stopped and decided to disconnect the battery till morning. Next day I go over there and reconnect the battery and the engine fans start running with no key in the ignition (probable reason why the battery arced the night before)! Battery voltage was down to under 11 volts so I took it to get checked since it was 5 years old. Got a new one, connected it, the truck fired up, and all seemed well. Took the truck home, parked it and 2 hours later I go to leave in it and the engine fans are running again ! When I drove away, I got about a mile from the house and the check engine light started flashing. Codes that came up were P0300 and P0480, random misfire and engine cooling fan code error. So..... I checked what I could, but then on Monday took it to an automotive electrical guy. He ran his diagnostics and while it was there, the fans came on by themselves again with no key on. He check his schematics, ran his checks and suspects the computer has some kind of fault. He said to get a salvage computer and he would re-flash it for my VIN. I checked around and found one local, but also looked online and came across "All Computer Resources" in Miami FL that sells reprogramed ECM / ECU / PCM automotive computers. I wasn't sure what to do, so called another electrical repair guy for another opinion. He said it could well be the computer, but would run his own checks before just replacing it. He was adamant about not using a salvage or reconditioned computer. Said he has been there, done that, and will now ONLY install new OEM replacement GM computers and flash them. Anybody out there have good or bad luck with a reconditioned computer ? Any thoughts or suggestions ?

I have a 2016 GMC Sierra All-Terrain X and would love to switch the stock grille out to a black honeycomb style like the Denali. Problem is...I can't find them anywhere. The Denali replacement grilles I've found state that they do not fit the Sierra. Then I can find them to fit the '14 and the '15 Sierras, but not the '16 or '17. Am I missing something here??? Thanks!

New to the site and looking for some help on my recently acquired 2002 Avalanche 1500 4x4 with 140k miles. I was working on replacing the front wheel hub and half-shaft yesterday. Finally got the hub out using an air chisel and hammer. Hub was rusted in pretty tight. So after I got the hub out I used a wire brush on the steering knuckle to remove all of the rust. I put a thick layer of anti-seize on the knuckle and put the hub in. The hub slid right into the knuckle. It was actually so loose that it would fall out if I did hold it in and I could move it slightly around in the hole. I was in a hurry as I was running late for diner with the in-laws and didn’t think about it much at the time. Reassembled everything and took it for a test drive. Truck ran great ABS light went out and everything seemed fine. Later that evening I started thinking about it and remembered that every other hub I had replaced I had to pull it into the knuckle with the mounting bolts. So now I am thinking that the hub is being held in place only by the three mounting bolt rather than by the tight fit of the hub to the steering knuckle hole. So do I need to replace the steering knuckle due to the rust enlarging the hole for the wheel hub? I am worried about driving the truck with just the three mounting bolt holding up the front wheel.

I have a set of 2014+ GMC Sierra 1500 seat covers, brand new factory, I am looking to part ways with. If you are interested, please PM me for info and pics. Thanks

I am well aware that we can avoid paying the dealerships fee and get a replacement key from ebay, pay someone with a fancy laser machine to cut it and then program it ourselves. Even with all that effort we can save about half the price that GM would charge. I'm wondering about the style of keys, for our trucks we have the traditional style key with a separate fob. Some other GM models (GMC Terrain/ Chevy Equinox in particular) have the flip/ switchblade style. I believe the working end of the key is identical and they both have the "chip" for programming. (correct me if I'm wrong) So the question is, can we use either style for a replacement? I really want to get a spare for both my truck and my wife's car. But obviously a replacement/ valet key does not need a fob, so if possible I would just get the "truck" style key for both if that works. I believe others might be interested in making a switchblade that works with their trucks if that is possible. So if anyone has tried this, I'd love to hear about your findings. Thanks in advance.

Nothing came up in a search, so I've decided to make a thread about the procedure to replace the compressor in my 2000 Silverado with a 5.3. Some background info: In May of 2012 the A/C was recharged and was cooling perfectly until it began to disengage as if it was low on freon. It was doing this for a week or so, and in the mean time it began to smell "funny". It would be blowing ice cold then hot, then the compressor would engage again and it would be fine. Then it just shut off permanently and hasn't been working since, and I haven't needed to replace it since because I barely drove the truck last summer, but now she's my main car and I'll be replacing the a/c as soon as possible. Do you guys know of any great tutorials online? Such as videos or whatever, and even as much as advice as possible would be fantastic too. And at this point I am only assuming that it's the compressor, but I'm not 100% sure since it could just be the clutch itself? Tyi P.S. I apologize if this thread is in the incorrect section, please move if necessary.

Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster. I got in an accident in my 2016 Silverado Crew Cab LTZ 4x4 Standard Bed about 2 weeks ago. My truck has about 4300 miles on it. No major damage (~$7100) mainly cosmetic, replacing the grill, left headlight, left fog lamp, bumper, and left fender among some other things. I just got the truck back after being in the shop for 2 weeks and have already found a couple things they are going to have to revisit such as aiming the LED projectors and working on the park assist. The main reason for this post is that they have only replaced the front left tire. Should I argue to have the other replaced aswell, or will this not cause an issue. The truck only has about 4300 miles on it but I've read conflicting arguments on tire replacement. Thanks in advance guys, and if you have anything else you think I should double check it would be appreciated. Steven

Hi Forum, I have been looking for an aftermarket upgrade for the fog lights on my 2014 Silverado. I already have the bulb size but have had no luck in finding any kind of an upgrade, just OEM replacements from Sylvania and Philips, along with some LED options which I am not sure would emit the same beam pattern due to the halogen housing the stock bulb came in. Any suggestions for an aftermarket fog light replacement bulb?

Please help I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT and I want to change my fog,high,low, and day time running lights to something that makes them look Bright white or the blueish color. I can't seem to find all the bulb numbers and I am trying to do it the least expensive way possible. I don't know if you can change the rear tail lights to be brighter and what that would consist of but can anyone give me the bald numbers that I would need and what would be the best solution for this it's for my husband as a surprise

Hello all, Long time reader, first time poster here (haha). I decided to post this because I couldn't find any answers to my questions prior to going through the process. It was very frustrating, my back hurts, and I spent a lot of money in gas, so I am posting this to hopefully make things easier for you than it was for me. Unless you work on vehicles full time with access to a shop, go ahead and plan on taking your truck to a spring shop. Try this if you want to save a few bucks though. My ride: 1994 Z71 Chevrolet (half ton/heavy half/4x4) without a torsion lift, though my truck seems to sit relatively high. I currently have 265R16 tires on mine. What I did: Changed my leaf springs to a set with two additional leafs from a 3/4 ton (yes they fit half tons), purchased everything separately, changed my shocks, tried out some larger tires so I know what to buy next. The newer springs with more leafs/leaves changed the ride height to a perfect level. Why I did it: My truck was sagging, not a lot, but enough to where I noticed it. It was also sagging ever so slightly to one side, not much but enough to where I thought I was losing my mind. The ride was also rough even when I wasn't hauling anything. I noticed it when my buddy's truck had a much easier ride. I also noticed that my front suspension seemed to react "harder" than other trucks to bumps in the road. Later I found that one of my main leafs was broken at the eyelet, the other side was broken at the U-bolts and I couldn't see it. I had probably been driving like that for maybe one year. New parts and what I spent: Used leaf springs from a junk yard (I opted for six-leaf springs from a 3/4 ton) : $200 for both (The junk yard will probably saw them off and hand them to you.) New shackles x2 : $55 New U-bolts x 4: $35 (from a 2000's model, they fit as long as you measure them) New things that the U-bolts attach to: $45 (again, from a newer model, the shop said they've worked in the past) New bushings x2 : $40 (get the stock ones, trust me, all the others are a headache) New shocks x4, replaced a few months earlier : $250ish (don't waste your money if you haul, get the good ones) Had a shop handle the rest, yes it is much easier : $330 taxes and all Used newer model rims with bald 305's from Craigslist : $75 *This is probably the cheapest route to follow give or take pricing on a few items. *Ebay was used for Ubolts and shackles, use Ebay for the bushings too though. Needed tools IF you remove the old bushings on your own: Circular bit (1 5/8" I think, measure yours first) : $20 Power Drill and Sawsall: I already had one. 24" breaker bar : $15 on sale at Harbor Freight *Don't bother with electric or battery impacts, they won't work. *I'd just let the shop press them out when they put the old ones in and save a few bucks. The best path if you aren't a full time mechanic: Note first: I found that my ride stiffness didn't change much from the old springs (broken four leafs to the new six leafs). It is actually a bit better. My buddy also confirmed this thought when he did his, though he said his was a bit more stiff. How many leafs is your choice though. 1. Find a spring shop and get an idea of what they will charge to swap the new ones on (I was quoted $270). I explained that I already had everything and intended to do it myself but gave up, it wasn't the first time they had heard that. You could check what they would charge for shocks too, but those aren't hard to change. I'd have probably paid up to $65 for them to change the shocks to save an afternoon, up to you though. 2. Purchase/order everything needed first so it is on its way. Discuss what shocks to use with someone who is an expert, not just the guy behind the counter. The pricier ones are usually better though. If in doubt about something fitting, buy it from a store so it can be returned. 3. Purchase used six-leaf springs, make sure they aren't broken or cracked. Saw away the crap if needed so the old bushings can be easily pressed out by the spring shop. You could use the circular bit to drill down around the old bushing. Work it back and forth with the breaker bar until free. Turn it one direction with pressure on the other side until it twists out (it takes a while). OR just saw each side of the bolt off and let the shop press them out. 4. Don't waste time trying to have the bushings pressed in or out, it will likely be included in the price if the shop is putting them on. 5. Take the truck in, explain that you want to make sure it won't be sitting ass-up like a jackass, and them them do it. This will save you a back ache, lots of gas money, and many curse words. I kid you not, messing with old rusty bolts and bushings is a major pain in the butt, let them do it! 6. Change your shocks afterward to avoid wearing them out prior to the spring swap (if you didn't want the shop to). Aftermath: My truck looks like it got a little bit of lift compared to the way it used to sit. The six-leafs fit perfectly without the truck sitting too high in the back. The stiffness didn't change all that much for me and the ride is a bit better. I recommend changing your shocks if your truck is old as sin like mine. I found that I could play my old shocks like an accordion. Hey, I inherited it so leave me alone! Keep in mind that changing your springs doesn't change the ability of the axles, so don't risk breaking them by overloading the truck. I found that I could fit 305's on my truck stock, but since I haul and do some minor off-roading, I won't be going over 285's next time. I also read another post where a guy had six leafs installed in order to haul his camper. He changed his tires to 10-ply tires, which I will probably do eventually. I took this path to avoid the markups on parts at the shop, and I honestly thought I could do it myself. Mistake. Skip the machine shops, get what you need, and have a spring shop do it. It will save you a few headaches, lots of sweat, time, back pains, and gas money. Pictures are added below of the end result, still with 265R16 tires. The only concern I have moving forward is the dependability of my newer springs, but brand new ones were crazy expensive so I risked using used ones. Honestly, I'll probably miss replies but plan to check back periodically when I can remember to answer questions. I wish I'd have known all of this going into the project, hopefully it helps you! Other considerations for longevity: If you have an old truck like mine, consider getting a tune up and new distributor cap. You might also change the O2 sensors, I found mine went bad without giving me an engine light. It killed my power and drove me crazy. There is also an inlet at the top of the engine toward the back that will be brittle and break soon, leaking coolant on the ground. Have a shop handle it when it happens, trust me. Also, you might check the circuit board for the windshield wipers if they ever go intermittent or quit.

Gentlemen I would like to know where can i go to find a replacement bulb parts list for a 2015 Sierra Denali, 4x4, 5.3L. Also, would like to find a parts list for replacement LED bulbs that match current OEM bulb locations. Hope this makes sense..Thanks

Wanted to replace my pedals, trying to see if anyone has done this modification and if so what are some good products.