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Drives

Found 11 results

  1. Looking for what else you guys recommend to replace. I Noticed one of my tie rod grease boots was busted, planning to replace both inner and outer tie rods, sway bay end link, sway bar bushings. Anything else while I’m under there and have to get an alignment? Mileage is at 78,000 miles. Looking to use MOOG parts. Running 33’s so if anyone else has upgraded to something beefier let me know!
  2. Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?
  3. So recently I cracked the bell housing to my transmission and it lost all the oil, so I’ve been looking at good used transmissions. My question is what years are compatible with the 2006s? I’ve heard the plugs vary year to year making some incompatible with different years. Any advice would be awesome.
  4. I am replacing the steering position sensor in a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500. The new sensor is offset about 15-20 degrees from the old one. That said, I can't line up the pin without moving the inner gear. Is it a problem with the sensor? Can I adjust it and make it fit? Help!!! My steering column is sitting on the front seat! Thanks, Nimrod
  5. Hi all, Im new to this forum. I apologize if my post is in the wrong place. I have a 2003 Chev Suburban 1500 2wd 5.3 Flex Fuel Vin:Z with 180K miles. Problem: At present my finances, thus my diy attempt. Problem with Vehicle: Over a period of months my air conditioner slowly became less and less cool. I see refrigerant bubbling from Low Pressure Service Port and feel air pressure against my finger when covering the High Side Service Port. At the time my vehicle never stayed parked long enough (teens) to do any further checking. Now they have their own vehicle, time to see about my AC. I connected the manifold hoses and the system has no refrigerant in it, as I suspected once the compressor didnt try to cycle on any longer when turning on the ac. I researched “leakingAC service ports” and to my understanding GM’s ACs systems have faulty ball & flap style parts inside their service port housing that aren’t replaceable. However it is possible to purchase the housing which contain the ball and flap inside. By most accounts its a simple unscrew the old part and screw in replacement, just being careful to realize it unscrews in the center, and does not unscrew from the line itself. At the auto parts store I told them I need to replace both my High & Low side service ports and they showed a me a kit which contained both housings (the fatter high side port and slimmer Low side port, both have a threaded end for screwing in as a replacement) it also contained red and blue caps and schrader valve cores. This was where I should have questioned the reason for valve cores being in the kit but I thought it must be an either/or kind of kit but everything I read said “Replace the port housing because of the faulty GM ports leak after disconnecting the manifold couplings” So with my system empty already, I unscrew the High side port. Replace with the new one, screwed right in, fit well. Then tried the same with the Low side port. After several failed attempts to unscrew it, its now rounded off, bent and still hasn’t budged. My Question 1:Does the Low Pressure Service Port (near the dryer thats wrapped in foil near firewall) {its the port where refrigerant is recieved into the system} unscrew in the middle like the High Side port did, so that the upper housing of the port can be replaced?? Of course I have since seen the Low side port has a Schrader valve inside. Problem: Replacing Schrader valve may solve the leak problem BUT thats irrelevant when the system cant be recharged due to the manifold coupling not fitting well enough to seal because of the mangled upper half of the housing. 2: If it should unscrew, any suggestions what will loosen it? 3: If I have to replace the aluminum line where the low port is, what is the name of that line and should I replace anything else while Im at it bc Ive read some ppl say replace accumalator/dryer and orifice tube if the system is going to be opened at that point anyways? Any suggestions are appreciated I really messed up at first not paying attention if specific lines were referenced as I read about leaking AC service ports. Apparently most ppl experience with leaks are on the high side because when I tried to research specifically for the low side replacement, I can’t find anything about replacing the port housing, only the schrader valve, which has me thinking I might be looking at replacing the line due to my messing it up. I apologize about long post but wanted to go ahead and explain the long as the short might get more questions than answers. Also I have vacuum pump, and know how much refrigerant to recharge (134-A) just need to get Low pressure service port replaced if possible??
  6. I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors. My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance. Symptoms/Diagnosis My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again. I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant. Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything? How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors? I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right. Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
  7. I decided after a week of having the Crew that the factory non-Bose system really sucks. I will be installing an Audio Control LC6i to convert the factory signals over to RCA. I am running 2 Rockford amps, a Power T400-4 for the doors, and a Power T400-2 for the sub. The door speakers are Rockford P1675 3-ways in the front doors, and P165 2-ways in the rear doors. I am using a single 12" Rockford P3SD4 under the driver's side rear seat in a Subthump box. (http://subthump.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_72&products_id=457) The power and ground will be Lightning Audio 1/0 gauge to the back, and then 4 gauge to the amps. Running 12 gauge speaker wire to all. I'm going to try leaving the dash speakers hooked up to the factory outputs, just to have some fill in up front. Lots of install pics to come.
  8. I have an '04 Silverado Z71, and want to replace the stock tail light assemblies with new aftermarket assemblies. I want to retain the OEM incandescent bulbs, but want a clear lens. My OEM tail lights are cracked and have deteriorated to where they look like fogged lights, rather than a clean looking finish. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
  9. So I was looking to replace my factory incandescent turn signal bulbs to led amber bulbs to make it brighter. However after buying the bulb that they have a direct replacement I encountered hyper flash and a faliure notice on the information display. On my older truck after replacing any bulbs to led all I had to do was add a resistor however after removing the front turn signal bulb on the 2017 Silverado I realized that it has no cables on the turn signal to add the resistor to, it's only a tab that you rotate to remove the bulb and has metal on it that I assume works the way the old wiring did. Has anyone replaced their bulbs with LEDs on 2016 or 2017 silverados that can help me out?
  10. I am trying to replace the interior lighting in my Dad's truck for him since the stock lighting is so dim. There are 4 identical lights, two in the center ceiling console, and 2 in the front ceiling console. After going directly to the manufacturer to figure out what bulbs i needed to buy, they suggested the 921 Led Buld. This is not the correct bulb. Has anyone had any luck replacing these lights? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
  11. From the album: 4silverado

    Got these 2003 replacement tail lights and harnesses for Christmas. I think these look better than the stock 2004 ones, especially on a red truck.
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