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Found 22 results

  1. Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
  2. I just replaced my alternator on my 2006 Sierra 1500 today, after doing so my radio only plays sound out of the subwoofer. I checked the radio and amplifier fuses and they were good. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Just had the rear main seal, and the transmission output seal replaced which meant the transmission had to come out completely. Everything looks and feels fine, except now there is a grinding/scraping noise coming from either the transmission output or where the drive shaft meets the differential. The noise is louder at slower speeds. Do new transmission output seals need to be "broken in" and such noise is normal? Otherwise, it's back to the dealer.
  4. Hello everyone, I just bought this used 06 Duramax 2500hd crew cab. So the guy that had this truck before me put a screw through the harness going through the driver door towards the bottom that runs all the lock/unlock door open windows etc. Etc. The window controls on the driver side work, but not the door lock/unlock. The passenger lock/unlock works, and driver rear door power lock does not work at all.. the guy that put the system in re-spliced the wires but it's still not working. He thinks either the control module got semi-fried, or the buttons in the door got semi-fried because he said lock/windows/and mirror controls are all one unit with it's own little computer. If anyone has any tips on how to trouble shoot this I would be very appreciative, and also any idea on where to get a newer looking driver door interior panel because all the clips to hold the bottom it were broken off and replaced with, you guessed it, a screw! It's the tan interior, other that that the thing looks almost new. Thank you in advance for the help!!
  5. Hello all, need some help on ordering a part for my 2006 GMC Yukon Denali XL. Installed a JVC aftermarket radio, completed buy a certified audio technician. Install went great but he told me that my amp was bad volume would not be sufficient. Cost to bypass amp and install aftermarket amp and labor is $445. I see that replacement is pretty easy, just do not want to rip off my dash and console to the amp just yet to see the part number. Can someone please tell me what the exact part number is for my baby ? 2006 GMC Yukon Denali XL Bose audio system. Has back seat DVD Entertainment System.
  6. So I just bought a 2006 silverado and it has nerf bars that I want to remove. I was wondering if the bolt holding the nerf bars to the truck is a factory bolt or if I will need to buy 6 new shorter bolts. Thanks in advance!
  7. I have a 2006 Silverado WT with the 4.3 and NV3500, and am in the process of ordering everything for a clutch swap within the next week or so. I'm almost fairly certain I want to go with an Exedy clutch kit, including master and slave cylinder. I've used Exedy before and have been happy with it thus far. What I really can't decide on is what brand flywheel to use. I'm leaning toward a Sachs NFW1055, but I've only seen one review on it and the person mentioned it was incorrectly balanced and it had to be sent back. Just seeing if anyone else has done a clutch swap on a 4.3 and what brands were used. I probably wouldn't normally ask, but Exedy doesn't appear to make a flywheel for this truck, leaving me to find an alternate brand flywheel. Also, the main reason I'm doing a clutch swap is because the truck shifts and drives horrendously. Grinding gears, clutch pedal engaging at the floor, jerky engagement, etc. I've seen mixed information on different forums about this issue never really being resolved and some people never get a properly functioning clutch before it's over. I've seen comments as simple as someone had the same symptoms and swapped the clutch and it drove like new. Then I've seen people say there is a GM service bulletin out over trucks assembled in Mexico using the wrong master cylinder and a revised replacement part has to be used, a clutch swap has been done with little change in symptoms, etc. I'm hoping replacing the entire clutch system will take care of all this. Input on this would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!
  8. Need a good shop around The Woodlands TX to rebuild rear differential in the step sons truck. He said its making a popping noise of some kind. If anyone knows of a top notch mechanic in that area, I would appreciate your help. thanks
  9. I Was wondering if i can put RCD dual shock mounts on 2006 silverado 1500 rwd, want to add billets 5100, or maybe 5160 if possible, or any other good dual shock mounts
  10. So I was driving back from the electronics store and didn't know how to get back home. So I decided to use my GPS. Well, while looking at the GPS, I rear ended someone in a 2006 Silverado. The rear bumper was damaged but that was it, everything else is fine. I don't have a picture of the damage, so I will describe it. The rear bumper was pushed down at an acute angle. The plastic (under the license plate) slightly detached on the left side. The license plate was slightly pushed in. Since I don't have insurance I have to pay out of pocket to fix it. How much will it cost to replace it?
  11. I'm looking to install a Kenwood single din stereo head unit in my 2006 Sierra, and I'm curious to know if its something that is easy to do yourself or if i should just take it in to a shop? Mainly just wondering if the wiring will be the same as stock and i can just plug and play, or if its not that simple. ALSO, I'm not too concerned about keeping the door chimes, steering wheel controls, and OnStar and all that stuff, so if having an easy install I can do myself means losing those features I'm still all for it, I'd just like to not spend $100+ for a shop to install it if possible.
  12. Does anyone know what size the bulbs under the side mirrors are? When you hit the unlock button on the key remote they light up along with the DRL's. Just can't seem to find them anywhere, and can't find a part number either. Truck is a 2006 Sierra Denali.
  13. The leaf springs on my truck are getting pretty saggy, and one of them actually has a broken leaf, so I am shopping around for replacement ones. I came across SD Truck Springs' website and found that they have two options that seem to both fit my truck (and also another option with 5 leaves instead of 3). The problem is, one is $84 w/o shipping, the other is $216. So my question is, what is the difference between the two, is one just higher quality than the other or does one just include all the mounting hardware or?... There is the same situation on other websites too. Here is the link for SD Truck Springs that I was looking at: http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&categories_id=655&year_select=2006&make_select=623&model_select=8277&x=132&y=10 Somewhat off topic, how big of a job is replacing the leaf springs? The dealer was going to charge $1000 to do it lol so I am pretty set on either doing it myself or not doing it at all seeing as I don't tow or haul very often.
  14. A while ago, the intermediate steering shaft on my 2006 began to rattle, along with the brake pedal. I decided to do 3 items at once: The shaft itself, the shaft bearing, and the brake pedal bushing. Doing all 3 at once makes things easier. This is the only bolt under the hood that needs to be removed, nut and bolt are 15mm. First, I removed the pushrod and pressure sensor from the brake pedal. With the brake pedal free, it's much easier to get under the dash to do everything else. You can see the clip that holds it together here. I used a small flathead and popped up the tab, then just pushed it off. Rod and sensor slide off. Here is what the clip looks like. Pedal can be moved forward, out of the way. With the pedal unhooked, you can get in and remove the interior bolt from the shaft. It is right underneath the white plastic bearing. Bolt is 13mm, nut is 15mm With the bolts removed, the shaft can be slid down, and then back up into the cab. It will be easiest to fish it out if it's fully collapsed. I moved the shaft up into the hollow spot by the console to get it out of the dash, it takes some trial and error to get it. After the shaft is removed, the bearing can be pulled down and off the steering column. Then it'll look like this. With the shaft and bearing out, it's easy to access the brake pedal bolt seen here. Both nut and bolt are 18mm. With the pedal out, it's easy to push in the tabs and remove the old bushing, then put in the new one. My old bushing was beat up, old vs new. Then the brake pedal can be bolted back in. After that, the new bearing can be pushed onto the shaft, it'll be a very snug fit. Then, finagle the new shaft into place and through the firewall. The rubber boot under the hood may need to be held to the side to get the shaft though at an angle. Finally, insert the bolt under the hood, then pull the shaft into place under the dash and bolt it. Both bolts need to be torqued to 37 ft*lbs. Then, reconnect the brake pedal to the pushrod and sensor. The finished product: It's not a hard job, but if you're a wide shouldered guy it'll be a tight fit under the dash. Now that the replacements are in, there is no clunking or rattle of any kind. Very glad I did it!
  15. Alright so after researching some options and getting some outside opinions on here, I'm pretty sure I am going to go with a custom tune from Black bear to get some more power and drivability. I do have a few questions though: 1. Is it possible to save multiple tunes with different settings? I love to have all the power I can just around town or messing around but also drive on the highway very frequently, so is it possible to have two (or more) separate tunes that I can easily switch back and forth between max HP and max MPG without having to replace the PCM? (Or is it possible to get a tune that maximizes both at once?) 2. What has typically been the total cost and how long does the entire process start to finish take when going with the scan cable tune? 3. Is it worth it to get an aftermarket air intake before getting the tune (wondering if a tune that optimizes the engine for greater airflow will yield better results?), or will the intake's effect still be pretty minimal? The truck is a 2006 Sierra Denali, 6.0L, AWD, 4.10 gears, around 135k miles. And I live in MT, so unfortunately it would be too long of a drive to get a tune in person anywhere that black bear goes.
  16. I have an 06 Sierra Denali AWD and I'm wanting to lift it, but I've read and heard from multiple sources that even a small lift will cause vibrations from the transfer case.. But then I've seen lifted Denali's online that guys reportedly are having no problems with. Also, I've seen people lift AWD hummers and jeeps with no problems at all. So, is a 3 inch lift doable on a 2006 Sierra Denali, or will it cause problems? ALSO, apparently Skyjacker makes a 3" lift specifically for AWD Denali's, anyone have experience with this?
  17. I am purchasing a new K&N cold air intake kit for my truck to primarily try to improve gas mileage (extra power always a plus too). I plan to get the K&N Performance Intake kit with the polyethylene tube shown here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/k-n-performance-intake-kit-57-3031-1/17401676-P?searchTerm=intake K&N seems pretty reputable. I also read the polyethylene tube is better than a aluminum chrome tube since the aluminum can heat up from the heat of the engine and decrease the performance of the cool air intake. My question is do I need to buy a different air flow sensor for my new intake kit or will the computer in my truck calibrate/account for the new intake? I also plan to clean the air flow sensor with air flow sensor cleaner during the process. Thanks! Any tips on any of these topics appreciated!
  18. I drive a 2006 seirra 1500 5.3 4wd and it has about 130xxx miles. I only owned it about 8 months now. On the way home I noticed my rpms where higher than usual when the truck shifted. I was about 5 miles from home when I came to a stop light. It turned green? I babied the gas but the truck jerked and didn't want to move forward. As I let my foot off the gas the truck slammed in gear and only moved like 15 feet. The transmission was in drive but I wasn't moving anywhere. Tried switching to R, 3 2 1 and still nothing. Truck sat there for like 30 mins, went to switch to D and the trucked moved. Still have the same problem of almost red lining to switch gears. Had to have it towed home. I'm pretty sure the trannys done. But this being my first truck would like to just make sure. My budget is only about 2g as of right now. Should I get the tranny rebuilt or just get one from like autozone or something? Any help is appreciated
  19. I have changed the pads, the rotors, the calipers, abs sensors, bled the brakes , replaced the hoses, checked for any kind of leaks in brake system; I've pretty much changed and done everything and anything I can think of to fix this problem. Nothing has worked. And the many mechanics I have talked to can not figure it out either. They lock up very often and unpredictably. I measured the temp of the rotors when I get home and it has been upward of 800 degrees. No, I'm not kidding. Can you offer up any ideas and or possible solutions? I am going broke trying to fix this problem. I live in San Jose, CA so it's not that east coast thing. Any advice, solutions, ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also no sensors are showing that anything is wrong. Thank you for any help given.
  20. First time to post here... so my apologies for giving too little or too much info... Got a 2006 Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z71. Its just now getting cold enough for me to use the heat in the morning and for some reason it is acting crazy this year. No problems in the past. When my truck gets up to temperature I turned on the air and ran the digital temp number up 90 and nothing happened - air stayed cold. I turned the air off and then back on and it got hot immediately but 30-45 seconds later it returned to cold air. I repeated it a few times and it was hit or miss about 50/50 when the air would start blowing hot again (and it was hot - not warm so I don't think it has anything to do with the heater core). I have heard of the a/c being on and then going to hot but never the other way around. I do suspect that it wasn't actually going to a/c but to the ambient air outside the truck (40 degrees). It was like this on both the passenger and driver side - unlike when I hear of only one side acting crazy. Anybody ever experience this or know what is going on? How do I fix it? Can't go without heat - pretty soon I will have ice on my windshield that will need defrosting. Thanks in advance for the help!
  21. Hi, I'm pretty new to this website. Came across it when I was looking for an answer to my problem . . . I don't know too much about trucks.. cars....4 wheel vehicles. I just bought this 06 crew cab 1500 silverado 4.3L had about 80k miles on it. I actually noticed the sound when I was test driving it from the dealer. Now it has about 101k miles and noise is still the same. it makes a rattling noise, almost like a metal noise at LOW rpms only. Doesn't matter if its 35 or 75mph. Have to be cruising like slight amount of acceleration. Sounds like its coming from the engine.. I checked a bunch of forums all saying different things. my truck is stock, as far as i know.. one of the forums mentioned it could bea bad alternator, but I have no clue. any help? Sorry I'm a complete noob. Ivy
  22. I just recently bought a 2006 silverado, I wanna swap my "stock" mirrors plus cash for the hd tow mirrors. there power, heated, all that good stuff. if you have some you'd like to swap or just sell please let me know, thanks zack
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