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Showing results for tags '2006'.
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So recently I cracked the bell housing to my transmission and it lost all the oil, so I’ve been looking at good used transmissions. My question is what years are compatible with the 2006s? I’ve heard the plugs vary year to year making some incompatible with different years. Any advice would be awesome. -
So, I want to know what it would take or if it can be done, switching some heated/ac seats out of a Cadillac Escalade Platinum model into my 2007 GMC Sierra 3500HD SLT. Then also switching the control panel in the center console for it also. I just want to know if anyone has done this and if it can be added and done???
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I have an 06 Silverado with 215k miles. Has the L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 in it. It runs great, has good power, but has an odd ticking/knocking noise. It doesn’t make the noise until it’s been running for about a minute so I don’t think it’s exhaust. I also do not think it’s a lifter because it sounds more lower end towards the rear of the engine. Has anyone had any experience with these L33s knocking? It has been making this noise for a while now and it’s very annoying/embarrassing. I’m not sure if oil has anything to do with it but I use penzoil 5w30 full syn. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks.
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This morning I started the truck up and I could see the lights on the dash were flickering like there wasn't enough power, and then the battery light popped on. I restarted the truck and the problem went away, was headed to work so figured I would look at it later. Drove to town with no issues, then parked, when I went to put it in reverse, it died and the battery light popped again. Started it up and no problems. Got to work and parked, and it stumbled like it was going to die, then recovered but all the electrical shut off, like the radio restarted, and the voltage meter was reading low(it usually fluctuates between 14 and 15.5ish, this was around 11. Restarted and now it seems fine again. Battery is about 3 years old, alternator is maybe a year and a half. Not sure what to start looking at for intermittent issues like this. -
I’m really debating on punching out my cat and running a straight pipe through it. My truck puffs out a cloud of white smoke when I dump it and I can tell a loss of power. Has anyone straight piped a 6.0? What are the pros and cons of doing it on a 2006 I’ve always done it to my older pickups but I’m not sure how it will affect this one
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I have a 2006 4.3 V6 Silverado 1500 WT that as of yesterday will not start. The last time I drove the truck was about a week ago before I parked it at the house. Luckily, its in my driveway so I can work on it. I'm a little confused though on why its not starting. I have tested the fuel rail pressure and have 59lbs when the fuel pump is engaged and about 59-61lbs when I try to crank the engine. I've tested the spark on all 6 cylinders with an inline spark tester and have posted the video of the number 3 cylinder's test below. They all managed to light the plug up telling me I have some spark, but i dont know how much spark at the plugs. I then checked the high tension line by trying to get it to arc off a ground bolt. It was sending power as i managed to shock myself through rubber handle channel locks, but it wasnt creating a visable arc. I also pulled a few plugs and they all were dry but had a color to them as if they were burning normally. I also tried shooting some starting fluid directly into the throttle body during crank; that didnt give me anything either. I'm thinking I have a spark issue; but am confused as I have spark at the plugs. Perhaps its not enough? My battery is dead now from troubleshooting so i'll be waiting for a charger to come in tomorrow. Until then - any suggestions???
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Hi, I'm pretty new to this website. Came across it when I was looking for an answer to my problem . . . I don't know too much about trucks.. cars....4 wheel vehicles. I just bought this 06 crew cab 1500 silverado 4.3L had about 80k miles on it. I actually noticed the sound when I was test driving it from the dealer. Now it has about 101k miles and noise is still the same. it makes a rattling noise, almost like a metal noise at LOW rpms only. Doesn't matter if its 35 or 75mph. Have to be cruising like slight amount of acceleration. Sounds like its coming from the engine.. I checked a bunch of forums all saying different things. my truck is stock, as far as i know.. one of the forums mentioned it could bea bad alternator, but I have no clue. any help? Sorry I'm a complete noob. Ivy
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My 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 won't shift into overdrive. -It started with, my check engine light came on Blinking the other day but then the light shut off almost immediately. I had pulled over, once the check engine light shut off moments later I went to pull back out and the truck wouldn't shift into overdrive. The light has come on a couple of times before but it was never blinking and usually a couple days later it would just shut of on it's own before we could get it looked at. Does anyone have any Ideas as to what might be going on? - And please tell me it's a cheap fix, HAHAHA -
Any paint recalls on 2006 GMC Sierra 1500?
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Looking to lift the front end of my 06 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD to lessen some of the factory rake. I have about a 3.5in difference from the back to front. Looking for about 2-2.5in of lift in the front. Any suggestions on what i can do to get the lift and if you have any product recommendations that would be great. I don't mind paying a little extra for something of good quality. Thanks!
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Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub. -
I just replaced my alternator on my 2006 Sierra 1500 today, after doing so my radio only plays sound out of the subwoofer. I checked the radio and amplifier fuses and they were good. Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
Just had the rear main seal, and the transmission output seal replaced which meant the transmission had to come out completely. Everything looks and feels fine, except now there is a grinding/scraping noise coming from either the transmission output or where the drive shaft meets the differential. The noise is louder at slower speeds. Do new transmission output seals need to be "broken in" and such noise is normal? Otherwise, it's back to the dealer. -
Hello everyone, I just bought this used 06 Duramax 2500hd crew cab. So the guy that had this truck before me put a screw through the harness going through the driver door towards the bottom that runs all the lock/unlock door open windows etc. Etc. The window controls on the driver side work, but not the door lock/unlock. The passenger lock/unlock works, and driver rear door power lock does not work at all.. the guy that put the system in re-spliced the wires but it's still not working. He thinks either the control module got semi-fried, or the buttons in the door got semi-fried because he said lock/windows/and mirror controls are all one unit with it's own little computer. If anyone has any tips on how to trouble shoot this I would be very appreciative, and also any idea on where to get a newer looking driver door interior panel because all the clips to hold the bottom it were broken off and replaced with, you guessed it, a screw! It's the tan interior, other that that the thing looks almost new. Thank you in advance for the help!! -
06 GMC Yukon Denali XL Bose Amp part# needed!!!
Javenged1007 posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Hello all, need some help on ordering a part for my 2006 GMC Yukon Denali XL. Installed a JVC aftermarket radio, completed buy a certified audio technician. Install went great but he told me that my amp was bad volume would not be sufficient. Cost to bypass amp and install aftermarket amp and labor is $445. I see that replacement is pretty easy, just do not want to rip off my dash and console to the amp just yet to see the part number. Can someone please tell me what the exact part number is for my baby ? 2006 GMC Yukon Denali XL Bose audio system. Has back seat DVD Entertainment System. -
So I just bought a 2006 silverado and it has nerf bars that I want to remove. I was wondering if the bolt holding the nerf bars to the truck is a factory bolt or if I will need to buy 6 new shorter bolts. Thanks in advance! -
I have a 2006 Silverado WT with the 4.3 and NV3500, and am in the process of ordering everything for a clutch swap within the next week or so. I'm almost fairly certain I want to go with an Exedy clutch kit, including master and slave cylinder. I've used Exedy before and have been happy with it thus far. What I really can't decide on is what brand flywheel to use. I'm leaning toward a Sachs NFW1055, but I've only seen one review on it and the person mentioned it was incorrectly balanced and it had to be sent back. Just seeing if anyone else has done a clutch swap on a 4.3 and what brands were used. I probably wouldn't normally ask, but Exedy doesn't appear to make a flywheel for this truck, leaving me to find an alternate brand flywheel. Also, the main reason I'm doing a clutch swap is because the truck shifts and drives horrendously. Grinding gears, clutch pedal engaging at the floor, jerky engagement, etc. I've seen mixed information on different forums about this issue never really being resolved and some people never get a properly functioning clutch before it's over. I've seen comments as simple as someone had the same symptoms and swapped the clutch and it drove like new. Then I've seen people say there is a GM service bulletin out over trucks assembled in Mexico using the wrong master cylinder and a revised replacement part has to be used, a clutch swap has been done with little change in symptoms, etc. I'm hoping replacing the entire clutch system will take care of all this. Input on this would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!
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Need a good shop around The Woodlands TX to rebuild rear differential in the step sons truck. He said its making a popping noise of some kind. If anyone knows of a top notch mechanic in that area, I would appreciate your help. thanks -
I Was wondering if i can put RCD dual shock mounts on 2006 silverado 1500 rwd, want to add billets 5100, or maybe 5160 if possible, or any other good dual shock mounts
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So I was driving back from the electronics store and didn't know how to get back home. So I decided to use my GPS. Well, while looking at the GPS, I rear ended someone in a 2006 Silverado. The rear bumper was damaged but that was it, everything else is fine. I don't have a picture of the damage, so I will describe it. The rear bumper was pushed down at an acute angle. The plastic (under the license plate) slightly detached on the left side. The license plate was slightly pushed in. Since I don't have insurance I have to pay out of pocket to fix it. How much will it cost to replace it?
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I'm looking to install a Kenwood single din stereo head unit in my 2006 Sierra, and I'm curious to know if its something that is easy to do yourself or if i should just take it in to a shop? Mainly just wondering if the wiring will be the same as stock and i can just plug and play, or if its not that simple. ALSO, I'm not too concerned about keeping the door chimes, steering wheel controls, and OnStar and all that stuff, so if having an easy install I can do myself means losing those features I'm still all for it, I'd just like to not spend $100+ for a shop to install it if possible.
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Does anyone know what size the bulbs under the side mirrors are? When you hit the unlock button on the key remote they light up along with the DRL's. Just can't seem to find them anywhere, and can't find a part number either. Truck is a 2006 Sierra Denali.
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The leaf springs on my truck are getting pretty saggy, and one of them actually has a broken leaf, so I am shopping around for replacement ones. I came across SD Truck Springs' website and found that they have two options that seem to both fit my truck (and also another option with 5 leaves instead of 3). The problem is, one is $84 w/o shipping, the other is $216. So my question is, what is the difference between the two, is one just higher quality than the other or does one just include all the mounting hardware or?... There is the same situation on other websites too. Here is the link for SD Truck Springs that I was looking at: http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&categories_id=655&year_select=2006&make_select=623&model_select=8277&x=132&y=10 Somewhat off topic, how big of a job is replacing the leaf springs? The dealer was going to charge $1000 to do it lol so I am pretty set on either doing it myself or not doing it at all seeing as I don't tow or haul very often.
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A while ago, the intermediate steering shaft on my 2006 began to rattle, along with the brake pedal. I decided to do 3 items at once: The shaft itself, the shaft bearing, and the brake pedal bushing. Doing all 3 at once makes things easier. This is the only bolt under the hood that needs to be removed, nut and bolt are 15mm. First, I removed the pushrod and pressure sensor from the brake pedal. With the brake pedal free, it's much easier to get under the dash to do everything else. You can see the clip that holds it together here. I used a small flathead and popped up the tab, then just pushed it off. Rod and sensor slide off. Here is what the clip looks like. Pedal can be moved forward, out of the way. With the pedal unhooked, you can get in and remove the interior bolt from the shaft. It is right underneath the white plastic bearing. Bolt is 13mm, nut is 15mm With the bolts removed, the shaft can be slid down, and then back up into the cab. It will be easiest to fish it out if it's fully collapsed. I moved the shaft up into the hollow spot by the console to get it out of the dash, it takes some trial and error to get it. After the shaft is removed, the bearing can be pulled down and off the steering column. Then it'll look like this. With the shaft and bearing out, it's easy to access the brake pedal bolt seen here. Both nut and bolt are 18mm. With the pedal out, it's easy to push in the tabs and remove the old bushing, then put in the new one. My old bushing was beat up, old vs new. Then the brake pedal can be bolted back in. After that, the new bearing can be pushed onto the shaft, it'll be a very snug fit. Then, finagle the new shaft into place and through the firewall. The rubber boot under the hood may need to be held to the side to get the shaft though at an angle. Finally, insert the bolt under the hood, then pull the shaft into place under the dash and bolt it. Both bolts need to be torqued to 37 ft*lbs. Then, reconnect the brake pedal to the pushrod and sensor. The finished product: It's not a hard job, but if you're a wide shouldered guy it'll be a tight fit under the dash. Now that the replacements are in, there is no clunking or rattle of any kind. Very glad I did it!
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Alright so after researching some options and getting some outside opinions on here, I'm pretty sure I am going to go with a custom tune from Black bear to get some more power and drivability. I do have a few questions though: 1. Is it possible to save multiple tunes with different settings? I love to have all the power I can just around town or messing around but also drive on the highway very frequently, so is it possible to have two (or more) separate tunes that I can easily switch back and forth between max HP and max MPG without having to replace the PCM? (Or is it possible to get a tune that maximizes both at once?) 2. What has typically been the total cost and how long does the entire process start to finish take when going with the scan cable tune? 3. Is it worth it to get an aftermarket air intake before getting the tune (wondering if a tune that optimizes the engine for greater airflow will yield better results?), or will the intake's effect still be pretty minimal? The truck is a 2006 Sierra Denali, 6.0L, AWD, 4.10 gears, around 135k miles. And I live in MT, so unfortunately it would be too long of a drive to get a tune in person anywhere that black bear goes.
