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Found 95 results

  1. Got an error "service charging system". After some testing it appears the "mega fuse (175a Littelfuse) PN 84095551 is what is bad. (2018 Silverado 1500). I cant find one anywhere. GMpartsdirect.com says 84460795 "replaces". I have had mixed luck with this site... some stuff WAY off. However, I cant find the part anywhere else. I know I can take it to dealer on Monday (NYE) but my fear is they will not have a loaner for me and I NEED the truck/vehicle Monday night/Tuesday. Anyone familiar with this part? Pic below
  2. 61872730218__99E50898-03B8-416E-B2E1-D303018DE498.MOV Hello All, I have a 2001 Chevy 1500hd that won’t turn over/start with other electrical issues as well. History: -went to start truck after not using it for a few days and the battery was dead - Boosted it with a booster pack, it started and ran for 1 second and then quit. - charged battery from an other vehicle and won’t even turn over. The dash only has volt meter, and backlighting working. Since then I have triple charged the battery. When you turn the key to the on position the lights come on, the radio works, voltmeter works, check engine light comes on and transfer case indication works. There is no PRND321, odometer, batt light, airbag, seatbelt etc.... when you push and hold the odometer reset button all the normal lights do come on. if you try start. You can here a faint relay click. if I energize the 10 amp crank fuse on the side of the dash the truck starts and continues to run. i have checked fuses, start relay, and battery post connections any ideas?
  3. I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
  4. hi I have a 2004 gmc Sierra ,1500 5.3 it goes into 4auto and 2 wheel all day long .but switch to 4hi or 4lo and the buttons light up 2wheel and the selected gear weather its 4lo Or4hi and both stay lighted up until reset encoder motor would this be the encoder motor fault
  5. Hello. I have no power output at my trailer outlet plug on my 2012 sierra 1500. Things I've done so far: checked ALL fuses, changed the trailer brake control module(at rear of truck) Can you help me figure out what the problem is ?
  6. I'm not sure if this is factory or not, or what it really is for. The wire attached isn't factory but the pad seems riveted on. Anyone knows what this is?
  7. Hey all, I will start from the beginning here. Purchased my new 2017 Sierra Elevation Edition in February 2017. Drove it off the lot with 6 miles on it. This is my first new vehicle so its been a little discerning to me that this has more issues than any used car I have owned before. A few weeks after owning the truck, my microphone stopped working for my phone calls and the onstar stopped working all together. My OnStar module died and they replaced it with a new one. About 5 thousand miles later, my trucks radio screen started randomly going black, turning off all sound, then coming back on again. It would resume where it last was, phone call still intact or radio still on the right station. This went on for about 2 weeks then my dash lit up and chimed at me, the radio turned off like it does I get a warning of a Power Steering Failure. I call my local shop and get it in there right away. The drive in, the power steering worked just fine. They said the reading came back as High Voltage, they updated the computer and sent me on my way. Fast Forward to 3 weeks later, my truck starts doing the radio off again but this time the dash lights all shut off too. I can't be sure but it seems to do it when its wet outside. It did not have problems after I was in the shop but it was also dry outside. I also noticed when this happens the voltmeter spikes high. I am dropping my truck off again the Tuesday after Christmas. Does anyone have experience with this before? The shop told me last time they have never seen this before. Thanks!
  8. Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do. Accessories that DONT work Horn Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights Starter Power Windows Accessories that DO work Overhead lights Keys lock and unlock truck I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions.
  9. my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance.
  10. I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one?
  11. I was driving for about 45 minutes down the interstate in my 2014 Silverado. I went to pass a car and the cruise shut off when i turned the blinker on. The dash lights would also dim for a second when i pressed the brake or turned on the blinker. It continued to do this until i pulled into a parking lot and shut the truck off for about 30 minutes while i was in a store. I should also note that when i pulled in the parking spot it was like the power steering quit for half a second like it has done a few times before. On the 1 hour trip home it drove normally with no issues. I have had other electrical issues like diming headlights when pressing the brake and also headlights dimming in time with the blinker. Usually these problems happen when i have been driving for 45 minutes or more. My battery is about a year old so i dont think that is the issue. Has anyone else had these issues and found a fix? Thanks
  12. I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
  13. Ok guy, I'm getting beat up on this one. 2015 Silverado, headlights flickering and a few other strange electrical issues. I've done the following: - new battery -new alternator -cleaned up ground connections- 2 on the front near the tow hooks, 1 on the frame that goes straight to the battery, the ever famous G218 in the left corner of the dash -new negative battery cable -took to dealer that did "thorough check" and still found nothing Still have flickering headlights and if I hit my window up switch when the windows are already up all the electrical in the dash goes dead for a few seconds and comes back. I'm ready to set this thing on fire. Any advice is appreciated.
  14. So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior
  15. Something that should be noted. I have now had experience with three Chevy/GMC trucks. Every time it rains/snows the speakers, sometimes the windows, side mirror controls won't work for 2-5 days, not until the inside of the doors dry out. Even with the weatherpfoofing foam panel that supposedly seals the interior of the door cavity, moisture still penetrates the space, shorts the various components. My friends work truck, door speakers could be counted on to stop playing after every rain or snowfall for 3-5 days. Once dried out-no problem, everything worked fine again. Noticed same thing on girlfriends truck and another friends personal truck. Just wanted everyone to be aware, this is definitely an issue with our Chevy/GMC Trucks. If something suddenly stops working in the door, dry out with a blow dryer or wait several days before you buy speakers or other parts to fix a problem. You may just need to pop you door panel and add some silicone sealant here and there. Did that with girlfriends truck. Fixed speakers going out intermittently.
  16. I am looking for some insight from other people that specialize in wiring and electrical. I own a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab and I have recently installed an overhead console and wired it to a 10 amp circuit in the interior fuse panel using 16ga wire. Doing it this way, the LEDS are very bright, like I want them. Now I want to switch the wiring to the existing wiring from the BCM for OE functionality when I open the door or use the dimmer switch to turn them on. The original wiring is a GRY/BLK 20ga(?) wire that runs up the pillar on the driver side. When I tapped into this wire, the dome lights work like they should, but are very dim. What should I do about this? I have considered running the oe wiring to activate a relay and running the 16ga I have installed through the same relay for power and ground to the dome lights. That way I get the brightness I like, and it retains OE functionality. Is this the way I should go or are there other options?
  17. 2016 Denali 3500 crew cab. Passenger side brake light / turn signal lamp is not working. Running light is working. New bulbs. Is there a fuse or relay that can be checked? I have not been able to locate one.
  18. Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
  19. Hello all, i have been lurking these forums forums for some time now but I now have an issue on my hands. My 2014 Silverado 1500 lt ccsb has been intermittently displaying the theft deterrent on the DIC but the theft deterrent light hasn’t stayed illuminated until a brief moment today. I had the battery terminals disconnected for about 20 minutes, it started fine, but when I put into any gear other than park it made the noise in the attached video. I replaced the battery about 3-4000 miles ago. Thanks. 90B0E818-502A-433F-9C65-86B59BAA2383.MOV
  20. 2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
  21. Hey everyone, New to the forum but I've browsed before when trying to figure out some of the issues I've been having with my 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 5.7L 4WD. I bought the truck from my old neighbor because I needed something to tow my ski boat to the lake and back. I knew the truck was a little rough around the edges and needed some work but I was okay with that since I know how to work on cars and I only need to tow the boat about a mile round trip to/from the lake. The truck started and ran great after I bought it but it started having some odd issues. There's no communication between the scan tool and DLC. There's good power and ground to the DLC, the cigarette lighter fuse is not blown. Not sure if this is related to the rest of the problems but I think it's possible. The Check Engine Light does not illuminate when I cycle the key or turn on the vehicle. Intermittent battery drain. Since the truck was still starting and running just fine, I figured I would leave it be and I'd get around to fixing it eventually. It developed a fuel leak from the lines near the tank about 7-8 months ago and I didn't want to deal with it during the winter so I let the truck sit until the weather got nice and I was able to replace the whole fuel system from the tank to the motor (not the injection system). Before I replace the fuel system, I drove it around the local industrial park to try to run some fuel out of it and the following issues started. Truck stumbled, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light came on, but kept running. Now, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light come on every time I drive it (4WD seems to still work). Power/Heated seats inop Intermittent battery drain turned into a consistent battery drain. I put in a battery disconnect that I use every time I let the truck sit for more than a day. Power Locks inop I started to get pretty confused and started trying to find some kind of common ground or module that would explain all of these issues so I went ahead and did the fuel system work and it's back up and running again. I drove it again after the fuel system repair and even more things either stopped working or started acting weird. Radio and temperature/compass in the mirror work great at idle, but both turn off above 10-15MPH. Turn signal on/off speed varies from fast to slow and interior lights dim/brighten opposite of the turn signal turning on/off Wipers are slow/dont work at all Cruise control inop Dash/cluster lights inop Power windows slow up/down So tell me what you guys think. I'm thinking there has to be a bad ground somewhere. I'm going to go through the truck and replace/clean grounds from front to back and see what happens, although I know that G202 is behind the dash and may be a huge PITA to get to, is that accurate? Has anyone experienced something like this? Is there a module like the BCM that could be bad and bringing down the communication lines, causing the no DLC communication? Thanks in advance! Adam
  22. Amazing how ridiculously low lit the interior lights are and I bought these on Amazon which are super super bright. It has it’s own on off switch and it’s easily accessible so I don’t need to do this but just because it’s been habit so long it would be nice to use the switch to turn this on but even though it’s LED it’s probably going to draw a lot more power as the wires the OEM switch feeds for its LED is so small it looks like a human hair! LOL. So I don’t think it’s going to work using the switch as I believe the new lights will overload it unless I combine all four wires together. But I would like to use the power positive and negative coming in at least so I don’t have to run new wires. The picture is deceiving these things are really big like 12 inches long by 4 inches wide Can someone look at this harness and tell me which two wires to use and opinions on whether the switches will handle this new LED light?
  23. I replaced my pass side light bulb about 5 months ago with the same type of halogen bulbs that they come with out of the factory and one day i realized that the same side as before went out. Before that one went out i had a set of after market LED lights. these to be exact https://www.amazon.ca/Lumen-9012HLC-G7-LED-Performance-Bulbs/dp/B01N5Q0TMA i ran those LED's on my truck and they looked great! everything was plug and play they lasted for about 4 months when my pass side bulb gave out on those too. when i took out the bulb to inspect it one of the LED diodes was blown out. I wasn't too surprised by that because sometimes after market parts can be a bit cheaper quality. But when my OEM halogen bulbs went out. thats 3 sets of bulbs in less than 2 years. I am just wondering. Is this bad luck?? Have any of you had this issue before?? if you did what was causing it?? any troubleshooting tips?? I really dont want to keep buying light bulbs every 5 months even the halogen bulbs are a little expensive
  24. Yesterday, 11:28pm 2015 3500 WT Crew 4X4 SRW - Going to be upgrading several things and hard wire all my USB stuff. Surprisingly Google research shows nothing on this subject for having been done this way or location. Rather then purchase a hardwire kit with a converter step down box, isn’t there a factory one already in the vehicle for the USB port in the center consule I can tie into and where is the location of it, in the console itself? Other research shows its only a .5 amp and if so, anyone know if the box in the truck is ONLY .5 output or if it has multiple outputs? If not and factory box is only .5 amps, it’s all a waste of time! Need 2.4. Thinking now probaly easier just to install a 12 V outlet directly to battery and use the standard plug-in adapter and hide it under the dash! LOL
  25. Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly.
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