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  1. Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly.
  2. Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do. Accessories that DONT work Horn Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights Starter Power Windows Accessories that DO work Overhead lights Keys lock and unlock truck I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions.
  3. I got a 2017 Silverado 2lt with remote start and recently a peer of mine got his truck stolen. I want to add something to my truck to prevent that but I can’t really afford the viper alarm system at the moment so i want to install a kill switch in the ignition. If someone could share the wiring diagram that would be awesome because I can’t seem to find it and I was curious if there was a way to install the kill switch without losing my remote start.
  4. I was driving for about 45 minutes down the interstate in my 2014 Silverado. I went to pass a car and the cruise shut off when i turned the blinker on. The dash lights would also dim for a second when i pressed the brake or turned on the blinker. It continued to do this until i pulled into a parking lot and shut the truck off for about 30 minutes while i was in a store. I should also note that when i pulled in the parking spot it was like the power steering quit for half a second like it has done a few times before. On the 1 hour trip home it drove normally with no issues. I have had other electrical issues like diming headlights when pressing the brake and also headlights dimming in time with the blinker. Usually these problems happen when i have been driving for 45 minutes or more. My battery is about a year old so i dont think that is the issue. Has anyone else had these issues and found a fix? Thanks
  5. Ok guy, I'm getting beat up on this one. 2015 Silverado, headlights flickering and a few other strange electrical issues. I've done the following: - new battery -new alternator -cleaned up ground connections- 2 on the front near the tow hooks, 1 on the frame that goes straight to the battery, the ever famous G218 in the left corner of the dash -new negative battery cable -took to dealer that did "thorough check" and still found nothing Still have flickering headlights and if I hit my window up switch when the windows are already up all the electrical in the dash goes dead for a few seconds and comes back. I'm ready to set this thing on fire. Any advice is appreciated.
  6. I have a 2010 Silverado 1500. The instrument cluster is completely non-functional except for the check engine light. The gauges do not work, nothing displays on the LCD, and no other lights illuminate. The check engine light will come on when the key is turned on, but as soon as the engine starts it too disappears. Everything else seems to work - radio, A/C, etc. I checked the fuses that I figured could be related. disconnected and reconnected the battery. I banged on the dash in case of a loose connection, and even tried swapping out the cluster panel with another panel, and got the exact same behavior. Would anyone be willing to share any advice or guesses? Should I change the ignition switch? Look for a bad ground (not sure where to start with that).
  7. My new old '88 truck needs a new brake light switch. It's got a release switch thing for cruise control in front of it (but no cruise control on the column), and I'm wondering if anyone with a similar set up can give me some basic tips on how to get to that brake light switch, in order to take it out. Can you wiggle your fingers around in there and get it loose, or will I have to take something off to get to it? The cruise control switch is on the brass bracket from the steering column. Even if I take the cruise control switch out, it's hard to get to the brake light switch. But I'm new at this, so maybe I'm whining too early or missing something.
  8. I replaced my pass side light bulb about 5 months ago with the same type of halogen bulbs that they come with out of the factory and one day i realized that the same side as before went out. Before that one went out i had a set of after market LED lights. these to be exact https://www.amazon.ca/Lumen-9012HLC-G7-LED-Performance-Bulbs/dp/B01N5Q0TMA i ran those LED's on my truck and they looked great! everything was plug and play they lasted for about 4 months when my pass side bulb gave out on those too. when i took out the bulb to inspect it one of the LED diodes was blown out. I wasn't too surprised by that because sometimes after market parts can be a bit cheaper quality. But when my OEM halogen bulbs went out. thats 3 sets of bulbs in less than 2 years. I am just wondering. Is this bad luck?? Have any of you had this issue before?? if you did what was causing it?? any troubleshooting tips?? I really dont want to keep buying light bulbs every 5 months even the halogen bulbs are a little expensive
  9. Hello everyone and new member here. The following question and situation is related to a 2017 LTZ Silverado 4x4 with just after 40,000 miles on it. Wondering if the following codes go hand in hand with one another or no? The codes are as followed: B127E, C0800, B1325. All occurred within a month of one another with C0800 and B1325 occurring recently (five days) and together. I am asking as I just picked up my truck from the dealership from being worked on and wondering if something else may occur soon. Has anyone else had this or any of these codes occur and what did you do to correct/fix the issue. Thank you for reading this and replying if you choose too.
  10. So, get up one day after a snow storm to move my truck, battery dead on my 2015 Sierra Base. Original battery, didn't think much of it, boosted it, went and bought a new battery. Next day, new battery is dead again. Brought it to my local mechanic to troubleshoot the draw. He was noticing a 0.5V drop in 9 hours one day, then dead the following day. Charged again, looked at it at night, the heater controls were lit up, another time the instrument cluster warning lights all lit up. He also saw the dome light turn on by themselves. Prior to that, I had other intermittent issues: - unlock the door with the key, pushed the unlock button on the door, it would not unlock the others, start the engine, then I can unlock with the door button - parking brake light on the dash doesn't come on parking brake applied - would crank for 10 to 15 seconds on cold mornings before starting Spoke to another mechanic I know, he said the fuse box was the issue, he replaced 4 in the last couple of years. I got it replaced by my mechanic and brought the truck home. I opened up the old box to see what was going on inside, it was a real mess, all corroded to ******, so pretty confident that was the issue. It's so prevalent that the local dealer keeps them in stock.
  11. Hi all, my 2016 1500 chevy silverado lt had 3 door lock actuators were inoperable or making noise. Common issue,ordered 4 new lock acuators from Gruven parts and put 3 in. They work great but noticed drivers door when opening or closing will not turn on or turn off interior lights and also radio stays on when closing door. Sounds like a bad door switch to me which is in the latch I believe. Thinking I caused the problem since it worked fine before. Went back in the latch and all looks fine. Was hoping to see a gear out of place or something, but looks ok. Anyone have some insight on this. Maybe a door schematic you can share to check the wiring. Thank you in advance
  12. Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers
  13. So my 2018 Chevy Silverado LTZ radio is basically bouncing and I have already tried to remove the blue cable and still does it. And ofcourse I am now 2000 miles out of warranty. This sucks my first new truck is messing up already! IMG_8354.MOV
  14. Got an error "service charging system". After some testing it appears the "mega fuse (175a Littelfuse) PN 84095551 is what is bad. (2018 Silverado 1500). I cant find one anywhere. GMpartsdirect.com says 84460795 "replaces". I have had mixed luck with this site... some stuff WAY off. However, I cant find the part anywhere else. I know I can take it to dealer on Monday (NYE) but my fear is they will not have a loaner for me and I NEED the truck/vehicle Monday night/Tuesday. Anyone familiar with this part? Pic below
  15. so I brought my truck in to get detail this past weekend. When I picked it up and drove maybe 50ft my doors locked and then kept constantly locking as if someone was pushing the lock button repeatedly. I took it back to the detailer and of course they claim they didn't do anything and they're not on the hook for fixing it. Has anyone had this issue before? I had a mechanic look at it and he said there is nothing wrong with the switches or door actuators. The truck is now at the dealer and I am hoping I dont have an astronomical bill to pay.
  16. I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
  17. So, I think this is a obvious question but I would like to be sure im not missing anything. I want to add a auxiliary battery to my 09 silverado but after looking into the system I would really prefer not to mess with both the cost and wiring of a traditional two battery system with a isolator. I was wondering though is it un reasonable to just throw a deep cycle battery and wire what I want to it (bed lights, 12v ports in bed, maby a few others) and then basically have it as its own electrical system with nothing connected to the first battery or grounded to body? I could then just use a charger to recharge it when it died? If anyone else has any other similar system or other ideas any help would be appreciated. I've also considered just hooking everything to a low voltage disconnect but I assume I would not get much use from just that. Thanks!
  18. This morning I started the truck up and I could see the lights on the dash were flickering like there wasn't enough power, and then the battery light popped on. I restarted the truck and the problem went away, was headed to work so figured I would look at it later. Drove to town with no issues, then parked, when I went to put it in reverse, it died and the battery light popped again. Started it up and no problems. Got to work and parked, and it stumbled like it was going to die, then recovered but all the electrical shut off, like the radio restarted, and the voltage meter was reading low(it usually fluctuates between 14 and 15.5ish, this was around 11. Restarted and now it seems fine again. Battery is about 3 years old, alternator is maybe a year and a half. Not sure what to start looking at for intermittent issues like this.
  19. 61872730218__99E50898-03B8-416E-B2E1-D303018DE498.MOV Hello All, I have a 2001 Chevy 1500hd that won’t turn over/start with other electrical issues as well. History: -went to start truck after not using it for a few days and the battery was dead - Boosted it with a booster pack, it started and ran for 1 second and then quit. - charged battery from an other vehicle and won’t even turn over. The dash only has volt meter, and backlighting working. Since then I have triple charged the battery. When you turn the key to the on position the lights come on, the radio works, voltmeter works, check engine light comes on and transfer case indication works. There is no PRND321, odometer, batt light, airbag, seatbelt etc.... when you push and hold the odometer reset button all the normal lights do come on. if you try start. You can here a faint relay click. if I energize the 10 amp crank fuse on the side of the dash the truck starts and continues to run. i have checked fuses, start relay, and battery post connections any ideas?
  20. hi I have a 2004 gmc Sierra ,1500 5.3 it goes into 4auto and 2 wheel all day long .but switch to 4hi or 4lo and the buttons light up 2wheel and the selected gear weather its 4lo Or4hi and both stay lighted up until reset encoder motor would this be the encoder motor fault
  21. Hello. I have no power output at my trailer outlet plug on my 2012 sierra 1500. Things I've done so far: checked ALL fuses, changed the trailer brake control module(at rear of truck) Can you help me figure out what the problem is ?
  22. I'm not sure if this is factory or not, or what it really is for. The wire attached isn't factory but the pad seems riveted on. Anyone knows what this is?
  23. Hey all, I will start from the beginning here. Purchased my new 2017 Sierra Elevation Edition in February 2017. Drove it off the lot with 6 miles on it. This is my first new vehicle so its been a little discerning to me that this has more issues than any used car I have owned before. A few weeks after owning the truck, my microphone stopped working for my phone calls and the onstar stopped working all together. My OnStar module died and they replaced it with a new one. About 5 thousand miles later, my trucks radio screen started randomly going black, turning off all sound, then coming back on again. It would resume where it last was, phone call still intact or radio still on the right station. This went on for about 2 weeks then my dash lit up and chimed at me, the radio turned off like it does I get a warning of a Power Steering Failure. I call my local shop and get it in there right away. The drive in, the power steering worked just fine. They said the reading came back as High Voltage, they updated the computer and sent me on my way. Fast Forward to 3 weeks later, my truck starts doing the radio off again but this time the dash lights all shut off too. I can't be sure but it seems to do it when its wet outside. It did not have problems after I was in the shop but it was also dry outside. I also noticed when this happens the voltmeter spikes high. I am dropping my truck off again the Tuesday after Christmas. Does anyone have experience with this before? The shop told me last time they have never seen this before. Thanks!
  24. my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance.
  25. I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one?
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