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This is my first post so sorry if I’m all over the place. I’ve had my 2014 Sierra slt for about two years now. I got it with 116k miles and I’m at about 174k right now. Since the day I’ve bought the truck it’s been nothing but issues. You name it, it’s happened. Four separate water leaks (sunroof, gps antenna, third brake light, and cab vents), 2 transfer case control modules, problems with the power steering going out, brakes going out at low speeds. A couple of months ago my transmission went out and it also needed various other repairs totaling over $20k. Now my park assist sensors don’t work, my rear doors don’t open from the inside and also don’t lock from the outside, reverse lights and camera don’t work, and it constantly dings at me to service my trailer brake system (seriously, it chimes at me about every two seconds as I’m going down the road, telling me to service the trailer brakes). I’ve gone through and checked every ground I can find and nothing helps. Today I went through every single fuse and relay in the truck. I found a couple of blown fuses and replaced as needed, but still no change. I’m at a loss for what to do at this point as I’m stuck with the truck after all the money I’ve sunk into it. Does anybody maybe have any solutions to any of these problems? I’m desperate for answers, anything helps.

Anyone with a 2017+ knows the back up camera is a little bright at time especially if you like to drive with the gauges dimmed, then you reach over to dim it and nothing happens, this is especially irritating when backing a trailer and you have to use the mirrors. I had this issue on my 2017 and I'm quite certain this exist on ALL 2017-18 Silverados/GMCs/1500s/2500s etc. It has to do with a LAN network GM added, anyways last year I went and did the TSB 17-NA-269 and it did help some but I was still irritated I couldn't use my dimmer to turn it down to match the gauges like on the 2016 we have. So after some digging I found someone just as dedicated in the Colorado/Canyon crowd. All credit goes to (nmz787) on ColoradoFans.com for his hard work and testing. So you can either use some trim tools or just your hands, I'm comfortable grabbing and yanking on the factory plastics without worry, some people are not and the tools make it easier. First remove the radio surround (the part that holds the heated/cooled seat switches if applicable) this has 8 Clips I think 2 above the radio and 2 below the ac controls then one on each corner. You can use tools to go from the corners or you can reach near the upfitter switches (park assist/adj pedals/traction control,etc.) find a edge or lip and pull upward firmly and evenly, some can be a real PITA but possible. Then slowly work around each clip the more you get the easier it gets. Once the surround is removed unclip the heated seat switches if applicable then set the surround to the side. Now to the radio LCD Panel, it has 4 bolts and 2 clips in the middle holding it in. remove the 4 bolts and start with the middle of either side of the panel (left or right) an again firmly but evenly pull out on one side once one side is out you can pull out the other side with ease. Okay so now that the LCD panel is out you should see 2 plugs, one are the far right side(passenger side of screen) and one on the left (drivers side of screen) the left is a mini usb, the right is a 10 pin connector. Go ahead and unclip both, no special tools required. Now move onto the 10 Pin plug. this is the hardest part of the whole thing, take out the white pin retaining clip (nmz787 used tweezers, I used 2 picks) once that is removed, lift up the black tab holding the pin in and remove the #3 pin, it SHOULD be a grey and green wire. The connector will show a 1 and a 5 on one side of the connector, in between that is the #3 pin. Remove it and tape it up good and re-insert the white pin retaining clip and plug both connectors back in. That's it, Now time for reassembly. I'm not sure of the voltage inside of that LAN wire so make sure it's taped up and secured just for safe measure. (I taped the terminal and then taped it back against the harness out of the way.) (I don't recommend cutting it out just incase you need to return it to factory for whatever reason.) Once that's secure place the LCD panel back in the clip slots and re-install the 4 bolts. Once those are secured replace the surround by first plugging in the seat switches if applicable then clipping the surround back in, then bam you're done and SHOULD have a fully dimmable reverse camera that follows the dimmer wheel. I hope I explained this well enough for anyone to do. This is extremely easy for anyone to do the hardest part is pulling the those clips out and the white retaining pin. I know this is ridiculous to some and shouldn't have to be done on a 60K truck but it's the world we live in. I also don't know if GM has any updated modules or cameras in 2019 that do this same job for the 17-18 trucks so if you are uncomfortable doing this please check that first but I am very happy with the outcome with my 2017 nothing oddball yet and everything still functions as normal with the wonderful function of a real dimmer not the band aid TSB. I hope this helps others as much as it helped me, after all that's what these forums are for. Good luck to everyone and like always this forum and any forums, it's members, me and "nmz787" are not responsible for any damage that you might do. I've attached the original post on the other forum (I hope that's okay, I don't want to endorse another forum or take credit for someone else's work, I just want to help others as this is a rather irritating issue for a lot of 2017+ owners) Also some pictures showing the "nighttime screens" and full dim https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/201-2nd-gen-electronics-audio-lighting/403329-fixing-2018-reverse-camera-display-too-bright-non-functional-dimmer.html

I own a 2015 GMC Sierra SLT Z71. When I put my truck in reverse, the reverse camera that pops up in the dashboard (the 8" touch screen) is black and says 'Service Rear Vison System'. Does anyone know how to fix this issue? It should be noted that I have not been in any accidents, have not replaced the rear reverse lights or head lights. I do have a LED brake light-bar underneath the tailgate that is plugged into the tow hitch on the truck. I have had the brake light-bar on the truck for almost 6 months now so I don't think that is the issue.

Hey all! So, as y’all know I have a 2014 Silverado. I installed LED reverse and cargo bulbs a couple months ago but I noticed there’s interference, and I don’t know what to do to fix it. Calling all electricians out there that know what I could do to fix this. Open for any responses, suggestions, and solutions. Thanks, y’all!

Hello Everyone and a BIG Thank You for a wonderful group to be part of!! With now a total of 20 years experience working directly with the GM product line, and spending the last 10 of those years specializing in True Factory Integration...I believe I can offer some valuable input and support when it comes to successfully adding factory equipment to the vehicles that did not come with it. Our specialty is adding Genuine Factory Navigation, Camera Systems and Video Entertainment Systems to these GM Vehicles. If anyone needs any help...don't hesitate to ask Lets have some fun!!

If you have an aftermarket navigation like an Advent OGM1, Alpine or Kenwood, etc. and have tied your factory camera into the aftermarket head unit, unless you disconnected it or sold the factory display mirror, you are now left with the factory camera showing in the mirror as well as the display on the radio. Although this is a perfectly acceptable situation and in some cases may be preferable if you tend to look at the mirror while backing up, you have a couple more options available: Sell your mirror monitor on Ebay for ~$250-$300 and replace it with the cheaper standard mirror Use the mirror monitor for displaying another camera like a front, side or camper/trailer camera A front camera is a lifesaver when pulling into a tight parking stall or garage space, and for the cost (in this case less than $125, but can be done for much less), it's cheaper than fixing ANY damage you could do to the front of your truck by running into another vehicle or other immoveable object. Also, if you ever hook any accessories to the front of your truck (snowplow, front hitch, etc.), a front camera is indispensable. To use the factory mirror with another camera is really pretty easy and can be done simply by adding a switch to turn on the display and hard-wiring your camera to the mirror. This mod covers adding a front camera (Advent CAM500) to my own Tahoe, and the process is identical in the Suburban and Yukon, but slightly different in the Silverado/Sierra, where the camera wires are actually easier to get to. An overview of the process: Determine what type of switch you want to use (momentary or toggle) and where you want to mount it Choose your camera and where you want to mount it, then run your camera power/ground and video output cables to the mirror Identify the wires for your mirror display trigger and the mirror monitor camera input Wire switch to ignition and mirror trigger wires Wire camera power/ground Wire camera video output to mirror input Enjoy another camera in your truck! In my own Tahoe, I added an Advent CAM500 to the front grille - this is a small camera with an all-metal body that can be used as a front or rear camera and has switchable parking lines: In the case of the Tahoe (or Silverado) with the factory "crosshatch" style grille, it was EXTREMELY easy to mount because the threads of the camera body were within a few thousandths of a "friction fit" into any one of the holes, so I added about 4 wraps of electrical tape to the metal threads to tighten the fit: As I mentioned, the camera is able to be used as a front camera because you can cut a loop to reverse the image, and another loop to remove the parking lines: Once the camera is mounted, it's very unobtrusive and almost hard to pick out as an aftermarket accessory: Next came finding a switch to use and a place to mount it. I sourced a nice rubber covered momentary switch, which when activated turns on the mirror display that stays on for 3-5 seconds after releasing the button. I mounted it on the steering column cover to the rear of the opening for the steering column tilt release lever: The switch is what's needed to turn on the mirror display while the truck is running, so it has to have an ignition power feed on one terminal (input) and a connection to the mirror display trigger wire (output) on the other terminal. A handy place to grab both ignition and the mirror trigger is at the left I/P junction block - this is under the large black cover to the left of the footbrake. Once you pull the cover off, this what you'll see (or some minor variation of this layout): In this case, the wire labeled "REVERSE" above is in fact the trigger wire for the factory mirror, and IGNITION and GROUND for the camera and switch are readily accessible here as well. What we need to do is hook one terminal of our switch (input) to the IGNITION terminal here, then remove the light gray plug at the top right of the junction block and peel back the tape on the harness a little bit, then cut the blue "REVERSE" wire: Connect the side that goes into the taped harness and up to the mirror to the output terminal of your switch: At this stage, you can test the operation of your switch - if your factory camera is still hooked up, put the truck in reverse to turn on the factory camera, then you should be able to turn the mirror display on and off with the switch. Now we can identify the wires from the factory camera. In the Silverado and Sierra, these wires can be found at the left kick panel (and if you have already wired your rear camera to your radio, you've already identified these wires and hooked your radio's backup camera RCA lead to them), or at the mirror harness like the Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche: If you have a Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche, this camera plug is not at the kick panel - the only place I've ever been able to locate it is at the mirror harness itself - the factory camera wires are the white and blue wires in Pins 6 and 7 at the plug at the mirror (third and second pins in from the right, respectively in this photo): Here's the actual pin assignments at the mirror: The easiest way to get access to these wires in order to make your connections is to remove the mirror (loosen the Torx T-20 screw at the base and slide it off upward), then remove the domelight lens to gain access and remove the two Torx T-15 screws under the lens, then pull out the upper console and unplug the harnesses attached, then set the console aside. You can then pull the mirror harness up and out of the hole in the headliner where the console was. Peel off the tape around the upper portion of this harness to expose the wires inside. You will need to route your camera's video output up to the mirror in order to make these connections, and if you did not hook power to your camera at the left I/P junction block as mentioned above, you can run power and ground for the camera here as well. It is far easier to run these cables by removing the left side "A" pillar trim by pulling the trim plug at the top of the "A" pillar cover and removing the 7mm screw underneath, then pull out at the top of the trim panel, then up. Unplug the tweeter if you want, or just lay the panel on top of the dashboard. Run your camera wires up the pillar and ziptie to the existing harness that's already there, then route across the forward edge of the headliner to the upper console location. Camera power connections: IGNITION is the pink wire in Pin 13 and GROUND is the black wire in Pin 8: The factory camera wires are the same white and blue wires you see in Pins 6 & 7 at the mirror, but they are wrapped inside the blue foil seen here: When you peel back the foil, the factory camera wires are inside - you will cut these wires as shown below in order to hook up your new camera input to the mirror: Almost all cameras have a standard RCA male for video output, so it makes sense to source a female RCA cable and hardwire that to the mirror harness instead of hacking off the male end of your camera harness - in the photo below, my female RCA cable has had the outer insulation stripped off and the center conductor (RED) connected to the white wire leading to the mirror and outer shield (COPPER) has been connected to the blue wire leading to the mirror: If you are doing this in a Silverado/Sierra, the same connections apply, but you will be doing them at the driver's kick panel, with the front camera video feeding the white and blue wires leading UP THE PILLAR TOWARDS THE MIRROR. Once your connections are made, you should then be able to display the rear camera on the radio when the truck is in reverse and the front camera any time the key is on by flipping your switch. If everything checks out, you can reassemble the truck and start using your camera! To lend some perspective to the difference this camera makes, I backed up in my driveway, then pulled in as close as I dared to the front of my garage without using the camera, judging distance solely by looking over the hood - (close enough that I was scared of running into the house) - then switched on the camera: On getting out and checking my clearance, I was embarrassed at how badly I had judged the distance: Next time, I backed up and tried pulling in with the camera on, and I was able to reduce this distance to about 6-8 inches with no problem at all. It truly made all the difference in the world being able to actually see where the front bumper was instead of having to guess (badly) where it was! If you (or your significant other) are regularly sticking the nose of your truck into tight spaces like a garage or even pulling into a parking stall, the added perspective will give a boost of confidence that I don't believe you can get any other way, and potentially save some pretty major repair bills... In conclusion, this mod is one of the most cost-effective, useful (and fun) mods I've done in awhile, and it makes great use out of your factory mirror that you probably don't even look at any more (for the camera portion anyway).