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Found 18 results

  1. Anyone with a 2017+ knows the back up camera is a little bright at time especially if you like to drive with the gauges dimmed, then you reach over to dim it and nothing happens, this is especially irritating when backing a trailer and you have to use the mirrors. I had this issue on my 2017 and I'm quite certain this exist on ALL 2017-18 Silverados/GMCs/1500s/2500s etc. It has to do with a LAN network GM added, anyways last year I went and did the TSB 17-NA-269 and it did help some but I was still irritated I couldn't use my dimmer to turn it down to match the gauges like on the 2016 we have. So after some digging I found someone just as dedicated in the Colorado/Canyon crowd. All credit goes to (nmz787) on ColoradoFans.com for his hard work and testing. So you can either use some trim tools or just your hands, I'm comfortable grabbing and yanking on the factory plastics without worry, some people are not and the tools make it easier. First remove the radio surround (the part that holds the heated/cooled seat switches if applicable) this has 8 Clips I think 2 above the radio and 2 below the ac controls then one on each corner. You can use tools to go from the corners or you can reach near the upfitter switches (park assist/adj pedals/traction control,etc.) find a edge or lip and pull upward firmly and evenly, some can be a real PITA but possible. Then slowly work around each clip the more you get the easier it gets. Once the surround is removed unclip the heated seat switches if applicable then set the surround to the side. Now to the radio LCD Panel, it has 4 bolts and 2 clips in the middle holding it in. remove the 4 bolts and start with the middle of either side of the panel (left or right) an again firmly but evenly pull out on one side once one side is out you can pull out the other side with ease. Okay so now that the LCD panel is out you should see 2 plugs, one are the far right side(passenger side of screen) and one on the left (drivers side of screen) the left is a mini usb, the right is a 10 pin connector. Go ahead and unclip both, no special tools required. Now move onto the 10 Pin plug. this is the hardest part of the whole thing, take out the white pin retaining clip (nmz787 used tweezers, I used 2 picks) once that is removed, lift up the black tab holding the pin in and remove the #3 pin, it SHOULD be a grey and green wire. The connector will show a 1 and a 5 on one side of the connector, in between that is the #3 pin. Remove it and tape it up good and re-insert the white pin retaining clip and plug both connectors back in. That's it, Now time for reassembly. I'm not sure of the voltage inside of that LAN wire so make sure it's taped up and secured just for safe measure. (I taped the terminal and then taped it back against the harness out of the way.) (I don't recommend cutting it out just incase you need to return it to factory for whatever reason.) Once that's secure place the LCD panel back in the clip slots and re-install the 4 bolts. Once those are secured replace the surround by first plugging in the seat switches if applicable then clipping the surround back in, then bam you're done and SHOULD have a fully dimmable reverse camera that follows the dimmer wheel. I hope I explained this well enough for anyone to do. This is extremely easy for anyone to do the hardest part is pulling the those clips out and the white retaining pin. I know this is ridiculous to some and shouldn't have to be done on a 60K truck but it's the world we live in. I also don't know if GM has any updated modules or cameras in 2019 that do this same job for the 17-18 trucks so if you are uncomfortable doing this please check that first but I am very happy with the outcome with my 2017 nothing oddball yet and everything still functions as normal with the wonderful function of a real dimmer not the band aid TSB. I hope this helps others as much as it helped me, after all that's what these forums are for. Good luck to everyone and like always this forum and any forums, it's members, me and "nmz787" are not responsible for any damage that you might do. I've attached the original post on the other forum (I hope that's okay, I don't want to endorse another forum or take credit for someone else's work, I just want to help others as this is a rather irritating issue for a lot of 2017+ owners) Also some pictures showing the "nighttime screens" and full dim https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/201-2nd-gen-electronics-audio-lighting/403329-fixing-2018-reverse-camera-display-too-bright-non-functional-dimmer.html
  2. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  3. Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
  4. Hello, I’ve got a 2008 GMC Sierra SLT with z71 package. I’ve had it stock until this year (2020). Recently put a level it in and had the truck aligned and it ran great. Went to put new tires and rims which are 33x12.5 Toyo open country AT2 extremes on 18x9 fuel assault wheels. The truck obviously had a decrease in power and mpg but recently it has gotten significantly worse. On HWY I can get 18-16 but recently in the city I am getting 11mpg!!! I live in a city with a lot of hills and windy driving so I can attribute that to some of it but it seems low. I’ve looked around and some guys suggest checking air sensors and tune ups, but I am wondering at what point is it a bigger issue? Or is it the reality of a lifted truck with heavy tires? any suggestions are welcome, it has not been 11mpg for long just the last month. Thanks
  5. 07 silverado 1500 with 7.5” RC lift I’ve discovered recently that my cv joints are on a steep angle causing them to clunking and wear down. So i read into it and alot of others have this problem with these lifts. Could anyone provide the list of parts to decrease this angle on the cv’s and fix the binding issue. Cheers
  6. So the screen on my Sierra got hit with a golf club (don’t ask how) and is now cracked. It works fine just looks like sh*t. Found a few replacements on eBay but was wondering does it matter if it comes off a Sierra or Silverado since they’re the same unit. Only thing that’s worrrying me is I know when I start the truck up it says “Denali Intellilink” before booting up. Is that programmed from somewhere inside the truck or on the unit itself? I highly doubt that they make different units for each model so it should just be a programming issue, but wanted to run it by you guys before I go and switch it out. Thanks
  7. My 2004 Silverado 1500 AC is not blowing out of the top vents, it only blows from bottom. I took it to get diagnosed and asked for name and part number but when I looked online I couldn't find it. He said he it was called a "control head' part number 599-009. What can I do to fix this?
  8. Hey all! So, as y’all know I have a 2014 Silverado. I installed LED reverse and cargo bulbs a couple months ago but I noticed there’s interference, and I don’t know what to do to fix it. Calling all electricians out there that know what I could do to fix this. Open for any responses, suggestions, and solutions. Thanks, y’all!
  9. I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
  10. I have a 2012 silverado and my check engine light keeps coming off and on. The codes read are c0900- device 1 voltage high(history) c0899- device 1 voltage low(history) p0300- multiple misfire detected (History Mil) p0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (confirmed) there is a slight rough idle on the truck, and I think that my gas mileage has decreased slightly Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be before I take it to a shop, or start replacing parts
  11. This bracket that holds a 4 plug plate for the rear taillight wiring. it is mounted on the rear of the frame at the last cross member. I cant find it in my drunken stumbles, a part # or where I can buy one would be a huge help
  12. Small shop in Kitchener ontario, working on medium duty trucks, canyons colorados rangers dakotas, brakes, oil changes, tire installs on rims already. Follow link to Kijiji ad for contact information information Please view this ad: Light duty truck repairs , http://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-repair-maintenance/kitchener-waterloo/light-duty-truck-repairs/1237560242?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttonsVIP&utm_content=app_android
  13. I'm from the mid missouri area, i was raised mostly on chevys but i have a love for all things truck, unfortunately i'm having some huge issues now that i'm back in a GM after being with dodge for a few years lol If i'm in the wrong area posting i'm sorry, please direct me to the correct place. I have a 2012 gmc sierra, i've had it little less than a year. When i bought this truck the previous owner had an "autopage alarm system" installed. not a big fan but thought "if it isnt broke dont fix it". Let's just jump ahead to the problem. periodically when i try to start the truck NOTHING happens for the most part. doesn't try to crank, sometimes the gauges flicker on and off, most of the time it starts throwing warning alarms for needing service on the 4x4, the traction control, a several other things. if you fight with it long enough it will start but once it starts that first time after the issue, my actual gauges don't work at all but if you shut it back off and start it again she will run fine for another few days maybe even a week or so. Now i messed around with a few things myself and just for a lack of time i dropped it off a chevy dealer. they tell me the autopage alarm is the problem, have it put in valet mode and they say that it should be 100% fine for the time being to run that way and thats all thats wrong i need it removed. of course it's not, so i have them remove it entirely. they say drive it for a week and let's see. of course problem still exists. so they say the autopage alarm has fried and taken some innocent bystanders with it. Replaced the BCM, Ignition, a couple relays (don't remember which ones specifically at this moment) re programmed the truck and the full removal of the Autopage alarm included pulling out the splices re soldering the wires and shrink tubing the wires. ( I checked to make sure of that last part) so it runs great for a week then of course i have it fully loaded down and it doesn't start this weekend. read on another forum how the starter getting moisture in it this and that will cause it to not try to start. replaced the starter. Runs great for saturday and sunday. monday morning nothing again. i have combed every wire i can get to cannot find loose wires or bad connections or even dirty connections anywhere. I am at my wits end with this truck. I hate to see it go but i cannot just keep throwing money at it until something works if it ever does. Surely someone has heard of this problem and been down this road to tell me where to look.
  14. Well I just got my truck lifted and I was not used to the width of the new tires. I accidentally scuffed up the sidewall a bit. The entire sidewall is faded brown (probably dirt) but where I scraped it that area is black. It's more of discoloration but it's noticable . I bought some armor all extreme wheel and tire cleaner, and some armor all extreme tire shine. Will this combination fix the discoloration? Or overtime will the scraped area fade like the rest of the tire and disappear.As always all replies are greatly appreciated.
  15. Driving my truck everyday and using my truck for work I some how put light scratches on the taillights from going in and out of the back of the truck very often. I was wondering if there was any way to possibly fix this without replacing the whole unit. The scratches are very light but noticeable. Is there any polishing or buffing compound that could work? As always all replies are greatly appreciated.
  16. Well I recently went off-road with some friends and I sort of bent the front plastic air dam (truck isn't lifted yet)is it possible to bend it back with a heat gun or should I just get a new one or should I just take it off all together. I'm sort of bummed that it happened but I don't know what to do. Will there be any major effects if I take the plastic air dam off in the front ? All replies will be greatly appreciated as always.
  17. Hi new to the forum! I bought a 02 GMC sierra z71 extended cab about 3 yrs ago. I looked the truck over and it was spotless then all of a sudden after this brutal winter we had (from Ohio in the rust belt) little bubbles appeared in the passenger rocker panel just at the very back. I know these trucks are known for rusting in these areas but when I got under the truck not a spec of rust .... I am assuming it's rusting inside out. has anyone else had this issue and what can be done to stop the rust if I cant find the source of it? truck only has 80k on it so would hate to let it just rust away . any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
  18. Hello Fellow Chevy Truck Drivers, I have had my 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 4x4 Z71 5.3L V8 since new. Since then I have replaced all tires with new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires in September of last year (2012). I also had brake fluid changed and the back drums and pads serviced. Recently, my brakes in the front (sounds like both) squeak when I apply them to come to a stop. Please note though that they start squeaking about halfway in my commute to work which is about 1 hour in length or 42 miles one way. The area I live in his hilly but not too bad. I live in the Piedmont area of NC. I do not tow anything nor do I drive "like I stole it", at least not in a while since I haven't volunteered with a fire dept. since 2003. I thought about just going ahead and changing my brake pads on the front but I am hung on the subject of what brand to use and ceramic or not. Any help or suggestions or ideas about what is going on and what course of action I should take would be greatly helpful. Thanks in advance. Ricky
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