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Found 12 results
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Hey, I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 L. A few weeks ago I slammed on my horn too hard and the horn wouldn't stop until I took the fuse out. If I put the fuse back in, the horn blows continuously so I have taken the fuse back out but now I can't use the horn. I would like to try and fix the issue myself instead of bringing it into a dealership but can't find any videos or tutorials on how to fix the horn button switch which I think is the issue. If anyone has any feedback, please I'd appreciate something because I am not having much luck on my end. Thanks, -
Anyone with a 2017+ knows the back up camera is a little bright at time especially if you like to drive with the gauges dimmed, then you reach over to dim it and nothing happens, this is especially irritating when backing a trailer and you have to use the mirrors. I had this issue on my 2017 and I'm quite certain this exist on ALL 2017-18 Silverados/GMCs/1500s/2500s etc. It has to do with a LAN network GM added, anyways last year I went and did the TSB 17-NA-269 and it did help some but I was still irritated I couldn't use my dimmer to turn it down to match the gauges like on the 2016 we have. So after some digging I found someone just as dedicated in the Colorado/Canyon crowd. All credit goes to (nmz787) on ColoradoFans.com for his hard work and testing. So you can either use some trim tools or just your hands, I'm comfortable grabbing and yanking on the factory plastics without worry, some people are not and the tools make it easier. First remove the radio surround (the part that holds the heated/cooled seat switches if applicable) this has 8 Clips I think 2 above the radio and 2 below the ac controls then one on each corner. You can use tools to go from the corners or you can reach near the upfitter switches (park assist/adj pedals/traction control,etc.) find a edge or lip and pull upward firmly and evenly, some can be a real PITA but possible. Then slowly work around each clip the more you get the easier it gets. Once the surround is removed unclip the heated seat switches if applicable then set the surround to the side. Now to the radio LCD Panel, it has 4 bolts and 2 clips in the middle holding it in. remove the 4 bolts and start with the middle of either side of the panel (left or right) an again firmly but evenly pull out on one side once one side is out you can pull out the other side with ease. Okay so now that the LCD panel is out you should see 2 plugs, one are the far right side(passenger side of screen) and one on the left (drivers side of screen) the left is a mini usb, the right is a 10 pin connector. Go ahead and unclip both, no special tools required. Now move onto the 10 Pin plug. this is the hardest part of the whole thing, take out the white pin retaining clip (nmz787 used tweezers, I used 2 picks) once that is removed, lift up the black tab holding the pin in and remove the #3 pin, it SHOULD be a grey and green wire. The connector will show a 1 and a 5 on one side of the connector, in between that is the #3 pin. Remove it and tape it up good and re-insert the white pin retaining clip and plug both connectors back in. That's it, Now time for reassembly. I'm not sure of the voltage inside of that LAN wire so make sure it's taped up and secured just for safe measure. (I taped the terminal and then taped it back against the harness out of the way.) (I don't recommend cutting it out just incase you need to return it to factory for whatever reason.) Once that's secure place the LCD panel back in the clip slots and re-install the 4 bolts. Once those are secured replace the surround by first plugging in the seat switches if applicable then clipping the surround back in, then bam you're done and SHOULD have a fully dimmable reverse camera that follows the dimmer wheel. I hope I explained this well enough for anyone to do. This is extremely easy for anyone to do the hardest part is pulling the those clips out and the white retaining pin. I know this is ridiculous to some and shouldn't have to be done on a 60K truck but it's the world we live in. I also don't know if GM has any updated modules or cameras in 2019 that do this same job for the 17-18 trucks so if you are uncomfortable doing this please check that first but I am very happy with the outcome with my 2017 nothing oddball yet and everything still functions as normal with the wonderful function of a real dimmer not the band aid TSB. I hope this helps others as much as it helped me, after all that's what these forums are for. Good luck to everyone and like always this forum and any forums, it's members, me and "nmz787" are not responsible for any damage that you might do. I've attached the original post on the other forum (I hope that's okay, I don't want to endorse another forum or take credit for someone else's work, I just want to help others as this is a rather irritating issue for a lot of 2017+ owners) Also some pictures showing the "nighttime screens" and full dim https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/201-2nd-gen-electronics-audio-lighting/403329-fixing-2018-reverse-camera-display-too-bright-non-functional-dimmer.html
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- backup camera
- too bright
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This bracket that holds a 4 plug plate for the rear taillight wiring. it is mounted on the rear of the frame at the last cross member. I cant find it in my drunken stumbles, a part # or where I can buy one would be a huge help
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Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
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Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
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Hello, I’ve got a 2008 GMC Sierra SLT with z71 package. I’ve had it stock until this year (2020). Recently put a level it in and had the truck aligned and it ran great. Went to put new tires and rims which are 33x12.5 Toyo open country AT2 extremes on 18x9 fuel assault wheels. The truck obviously had a decrease in power and mpg but recently it has gotten significantly worse. On HWY I can get 18-16 but recently in the city I am getting 11mpg!!! I live in a city with a lot of hills and windy driving so I can attribute that to some of it but it seems low. I’ve looked around and some guys suggest checking air sensors and tune ups, but I am wondering at what point is it a bigger issue? Or is it the reality of a lifted truck with heavy tires? any suggestions are welcome, it has not been 11mpg for long just the last month. Thanks -
07 silverado 1500 with 7.5” RC lift I’ve discovered recently that my cv joints are on a steep angle causing them to clunking and wear down. So i read into it and alot of others have this problem with these lifts. Could anyone provide the list of parts to decrease this angle on the cv’s and fix the binding issue. Cheers -
So the screen on my Sierra got hit with a golf club (don’t ask how) and is now cracked. It works fine just looks like sh*t. Found a few replacements on eBay but was wondering does it matter if it comes off a Sierra or Silverado since they’re the same unit. Only thing that’s worrrying me is I know when I start the truck up it says “Denali Intellilink” before booting up. Is that programmed from somewhere inside the truck or on the unit itself? I highly doubt that they make different units for each model so it should just be a programming issue, but wanted to run it by you guys before I go and switch it out. Thanks -
My 2004 Silverado 1500 AC is not blowing out of the top vents, it only blows from bottom. I took it to get diagnosed and asked for name and part number but when I looked online I couldn't find it. He said he it was called a "control head' part number 599-009. What can I do to fix this?
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Hey all! So, as y’all know I have a 2014 Silverado. I installed LED reverse and cargo bulbs a couple months ago but I noticed there’s interference, and I don’t know what to do to fix it. Calling all electricians out there that know what I could do to fix this. Open for any responses, suggestions, and solutions. Thanks, y’all! -
I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
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I have a 2012 silverado and my check engine light keeps coming off and on. The codes read are c0900- device 1 voltage high(history) c0899- device 1 voltage low(history) p0300- multiple misfire detected (History Mil) p0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (confirmed) there is a slight rough idle on the truck, and I think that my gas mileage has decreased slightly Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be before I take it to a shop, or start replacing parts
