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Exactly as the title states, RunVSE has released emissions compliant tuning for the LM2 Duramax in the Sierra and Silverado platform (pre-refresh). https://runvse.com/2020-2022-3-0l-lm2-duramax-emissions-compliant/ https://youtu.be/lGBM54eJ1Vw

Hope nobody minds, but I'm going to start up a Quick Reference Guide for common parts/fluids/bulbs for the T1 HD trucks. I'll try to keep it updated if anything changes. If a mod wants to sticky it, I'm down for that too. Owners Manuals Chevrolet: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/silverado-2500-3500/2020-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual.pdf GMC: https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/gmc/sierra-2500-3500/2020-gmc-sierra-owners-manual.pdf Diesel Supplement: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/multimodel/2020-6.6-duramax-diesel-supplement.pdf Oil Changes 6.6 gas L8T (VIN code "7") Capacity: 8 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19383806 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 6.6 Diesel L5P (VIN code "Y") Capacity: 10 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF26 / 89017527 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 Engine Air Filters 6.6 Gas: A3244C / 84121219 6.6 Diesel: A3248C / 84554703 Engine Fuel Filter 6.6 Diesel L5P: TP1015 / 23304096 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 / 13508023 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 23387857 Spark Plugs 6.6 Gas L8T: 41-114 / 12622441 Glow Plugs 6.6 Diesel L5P: 68G / 12690238 Fuel Tank Sizes 6.6 Gas L8T, All Box/Cab Configurations: 36 Gallons 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Long Box/Crew Cab Standard and Long Box Configurations: 36 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Standard Box Configuration: 29 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Regular Cab Long Box Configuration: 28 Gallons. Diesel Exhaust Fluid Tank Capacity: 7 gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine): DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine): DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid. Transmission Capacities (Approximate): 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine) Pan Drop: 6.0 quarts Overhaul: 10.5 quarts Complete System: 12.4 quarts 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine) Overhual: 20.6 quarts Complete System: 22.08 quarts Transfer Case Fluid Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: Dexron VI Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: Dexron VI Transfer Case Fluid Capacities Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: 2.4 Quarts Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: 1.6 Quarts Brake System Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 3 brake fluid): DOT 3 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 4 brake fluid): DOT 4 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m Front Axle 9.25" Axle Lubricant: 75w85 Synthetic High Efficiency Lubricant, 10-4091 / 19300457 Capacity: 1.9 Quarts Rear Axle 11.5" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts Rear Axle 12.0" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts

Hopefully someone can help me, I made a dumb mistake of loosening the clutch lever pivot pin on my Sierra 1500 transfer case. Transfer case is a np246. I kid you not I have looked online for hours looking for the torque spec of that clutch lever pivot pin. Just want to torque it back to where is was. If anyone knows the torque spec for it I would greatly appreciate it. Below is a diagram of transfer case, #13 is the clutch lever pivot pin

So I have a 03 GMC Sierra 1500HD with a 4l80e and 4.10 gearing with the essential Intake and Exhuast mods. I’m in process of getting a Black Bear Performance scan cable tune and I’m about to fill out the Tune Order Form asking how firm I want my shifts and how much Torque management to remove and if I want the “Tow/Haul Ass” button. This question is for people that have custom tunes. Since I have the Beefy transmission I wanted to take 100% TM off for normal driving because I want power when I need/want it cause that’s why I got a 6.0 and I like Firm shifts. I also like the idea of the Tow/ Haul Performance button. My Question is, with 100% TM off in “Normal mode” would the Performance button make any difference that you can feel? I just wonder at that point if it would be worth getting the Performance button or should I have 80% TM removed in Normal mode so that I can really tell the difference from the Performance button. I want to squeeze everything I can out of it. Anyone that’s chose 100% TM removed AND have the Performance button? How do you like it?

Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 with the dreaded whine that seems to be the torque converter. I am almost certain that is what it is. The only video I’ve found that has the same exact sound is here How hard is it to pull the transmission just to swap out a nee TC? Does that sound like the TC or the pump? Anything I need to be sure I do? Truck is still driving fine, but not sure for how long. Any tips would be appreciated. Also looking for the best TC that will last.

2019 2500HD Duramax diesel. What is the OEM spec for the rear axle leaf spring u-bolts? I am installing longer shackles to drop the rear. I have seen so many different answers on other posts.

This thread is for anyone who would like to post pictures or share their feedback on the Roto-fab CAI system. We are receiving awesome feedback and customer reviews for our new 2019-2020 Silverado / Sierra 1500 Cold Air Intake, and we're excited to continue our tradition of performance and quality on this new platform! Roto-fab CAI Web Link: https://www.roto-fab.com/products/make/gmc Photo Credit: Rakkasan Motorsports, Authorized Roto-fab Dealer Gen5 DIY, Authorized Roto-fab Dealer onthereel, GM-Trucks.com Forum Member RyanbabZ71, GM-Trucks.com Forum Member @Cfowler_75, Instagram @Mayhem_1LE_, Instagram Thanks for the Photos everyone!

asking for recommendations for bolt-ons to give more power to my 1993 silverado 2500. Going to start using it to tow a travel trailer. It already has the factory tow package. It's a 5.7L [350] V-8. I've already upgraded the exhaust; thinking headers and a cold-air intake . . . any other suggestions?

Hey guys I’m new to the forum as well the brand. I recently just bought a 2019 custom trail boss which only offers the 5.3. I wanted the 6.2 but that came with only the higher trims. I’m familiar with the 5.7 hemi and I’m kinda down about the 355 horsepower/ 383 torque compared to my hemi that I traded. What can I do exactly to get more power to the engine?

Hi, I have an 03' Yukon XL AWD with a 4L60E transmission. Does anyone know the torque specs for the transmission mount? From what I have found. the bolts that attach the mount to the transmission get tightened to 18 ft/lbs. However, I cannot find the torque for the nuts for the studs that go through the crossmember. The mount part # is 15113134 and here's a photo of it. Thanks!

Decided to make a new thread about headers. So I am looking for ways to add some umph to my truck. I have seen that long tube headers can add low end torque and HP. Anyone run with these types of headers? What kind of power gains have you seen? Hooked to stock exhaust or full custom?

Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing?

CASH TALKS! TEXT ME OR CALL 406-690-537I TO DISCUSS, TEXT PREFERRED AS I WORK OUT OF CELL SERVICE OFTEN. Selling my beloved 2007 GMC Duramax Diesel, last year of the best of the LBZ model code. No emissions from the factory to deal with, and considered to be the best model of duramax ever made. This is a very clean truck, I looked long and hard to find this, and it is my 3rd lbz GM truck. No leaks no drips no check engine lights nothing. Ready for anything and will last forever, I see these trucks on the forums over a half million miles getting beat on daily and running forever, this has been babied. Yes I am asking over book and considering offers, please realize this truck has had a lot more than the average truck has had put into it. Really like buying a brand new truck with everything completely done. Truck is awesome all around. The front seats are showing light wear but no rips, rears and rest of interior looks like new. A couple light paint chips on the front bumper, and I have all factory touch up paints. That's it for imperfections. THIS TRUCK IS CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. I hate selling, however this truck is such a garage queen it makes it hard for me to justify keeping. I started a new position shortly after purchasing the truck and have a work vehicle I use the marjority of the time. The truck is only used for weekend soccer interstate trips etc. I am the 3rd owner, first was in california and second was in billings and was an oil worker, and it was a garage queen its life. I purchased the truck and did extensive upgrades and reliability modifications to make it the perfect truck in my eyes. I have spent thousands in upgrades and countless hours and extensive labor charges to get the truck to where it is today. This will make someone a reliable powerful vehicle for many years to come with everything done. Always ran premium diesel and Stanadyne with every fillup. Truck is fully loaded slt model, every available option except leaking sunroof. Bose stereo, power heated leather etc etc. I will do my best to list everything I can think of about the truck. I am sure I will miss much as so much has been done it is hard to even remember it all. Everything was done with reliability in mind first, and performance second. I have most of the stock parts as well that have been removed. Upgrades and performance modifications... Allison deep transmission pan and new gasket with all new filters. Transgo jr shift kit. Fleece all on module Duramax store transmission cooler line kit upgrade (replaces notorious oem leaking lines) Professionally installed rough country 3" lift kit, including new steering stabilizer, 4 new shocks, new rear block, new upper control arms with better angle for ball joint lift, new torsion keys. Also did new pitman and idler arm at this time and full alignment. 16" XD wheels with 33" Cooper AT3 tires, maybe 5k miles on tires. SDP PCV reroute kit AFE Series 2 intake with afe pre filter 4" MBRP mufflered exhaust with black tip. 3" MBRP downpipe MBRP uppipe Sinister EGR delete kit Edge Insight Gauge Monitor with egt into passenger side exhaust header. Gauge is mounted in dash pod and professionally wired. Airdog 165 lift pump Capped resonator Fleece headlight modification (allows fogs brights lows driving to all be on simultaneously) Full window tint with vent visors. 2 sets of weathertech floor mats, one still new in box. Trailer brake Snugtop Topper color matched and fitted for the truck, matches the lines perfect. 5th wheel rails in bed GMC Gatorback heavy duty mudflaps Lund chrome nerf bars Blacked out led taillights EFI LIVE by Idaho rob at atp in Idaho, comes with efi live tuner. If you are not familiar with efi live tuning take some time to read up on google, it is amazing what it does for these trucks and Idaho Rob is considered among the best tuners in the business. Truck was tuned after all modifications were completed and comes with 5 tunes that are able to be shifted on the fly with the dsp 5 switch mounted in the cigarette lighter spot and is tuned for the transmission with shift kit. Tunes range from optimized stock, tow tune with turbo tow brake, 90hp eco, 120 street, and 150 hot race, and are changeable simply by turning the switch from positions 1 through 5. I have used the tow tune and the eco tune primarily, as I get older I enjoy cruising more than speeding. The truck does have the ability to really pull however in the higher tunes. Very clean tuning with almost no smoke except in tune 5 where it will smoke a little when getting after it. Truck has not been rodded, adult owned and driven always. Maintenance items completed... All completed within the last 6 months. Repeat drain and fills of both differentials with 500k mile synthetic delo dif fluid. Repeat drain and fill of transmission and allison filters using only transynd fluid. (Internal filter also change with the deep pan addition.) New oem gm radiator hoses and coolant filled drained and filled multiple times. Hyperlube racing coolant additive added on last fillup. New oem thermostats Brake fluid flushed twice, filled with Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. Power steering flushed twice, filled with blue line synthetic power steering fluid. Midas full alignment after lift kit installation. 4 wheel tire balance. Full midas inspection showing everything in the good green category. New intermediate dorman problem solver steering shaft and bearing kit (fixes notorious oem clunking steering problem) New spicer lifetime greasable ujoints All zerks repeatedly greased with lucas red and tacky Recharged air conditioning. Turbo Vane cleaning done. Synthetic oils and oem filters, oem airdog liftpump filters. Truck is ready to go. Title in hand, lien through local bank which my wife works at and all title work can be done at bank on day of sale. I may consider delivery for a fee, depending on how far etc. I may consider a partial trade on a cheaper vehicle (under 5kish) with your cash offer. Would need to know all vehicle details. SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY PLEASE!!! I am working huge hours right now and don't have time for tire kickers. Vin available upon request. Truck is located in billings montana and can be viewed at almost any time. I will try to get more pictures up of the truck as time allows. First picture is current with topper, other pic just to show how it looks without topper.

2005 GMC 2500 HD 6.0 Tracking down torque Specs for the bolts that hold the rocker arms in place and the bolts that hold on the cover that goes over the rocker arms.

Have a few questions, wonder if any of you have some ideas or input on them... I have an 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4wd with the 6.0L Vortec (U code for VIN) and has about 179K miles on it. The truck was getting a check engine code of P0101, MAF Sensor, I replaced that one and now I am getting the below codes, on and off... P0131 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (B1S1) P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low B2S1 P0327 Knock Sensor DTC Code P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low (Bank 2) Everything except P0327 (normally stays on during normal driving) comes up when I floor the gas on the highway. But when going around 65 - 70 mph at 2000rpm, and gives full throttle, the truck down shifts to 3000 rpm first and then once more down to 4000 rpm, but there is no torque... truck actually slows down going uphill instead and does not go above 4000 rpm. Should I bite the bullet and change the knock sensors and O2 sensors as well? I got the suggestion that it could be clogged cats, but it's not idling or running rough... Any ideas?

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 7-11-2016 Ford announced in a press release this week that its V6 EcoBoost engine for 2017 in the F-150 will generate 470 ft-lb of torque. Jumping 50 lb-ft for the new model year, that number could make the Ford F-150 the truck with the most torque in the 1500 segment. GM's 6.2-liter V8 presently produces 460 lb-ft. That 10-ft-lb torque spread is no accident. The 2016 Ram EcoDiesel 3.0-liter V6 generates 420 ft-lb of torque and its 5.7-liter "HEMI" V8 makes 410 ft-lb. GM could modify its 2017 models to add torque, but without boost that is not as easy as it sounds. The topic may be mostly specmanship more than reality. HD trucks pack much more torque than these numbers. Ford says its new drivetrain will have the first "volume-produced" 10-speed automatic transmission available to consumers. Ford also goes on to say "The new engine provides better low-end and peak engine performance, ideal for hauling heavy payloads and towing heavy trailers." What say you GM-Trucks readers? Does Ford's leap ahead in max torque point to a boosted gasoline engine being the best for towing going forward?

I have a stock 2008 Silveardo Crew cab LT, with a 5.3l motor. Truck is currently getting a used motor installed in it due to knocking, oil pressure, and oil lose (fun right). Well once I get a new motor (used) with 50k miles on it I was planning on dropping like 3k of parts into it to make it faster. My only concern is my transmission, will it hold up? Upgrades: Cams Headers Intake Injectors exhaust Tune All on a stock tranny, is this possible or will this be a quick way to find my truck in the shop?

I have 2012 Sierra 5.3 with a 4l60e trans. As of lately there has been a shuttering raging from 30 to 40 MPH . Its like going over the safety bumps on the side of the road. Its not the tires or the U joints, i ruled those out. Im thinking either the Tc itself or the solenoid is bad. If i keep it at 30 it will shutter and when I press the brake to see if it stops , it wont, the shuttering will continue . When i turn the tow mode on, the shutter will disappear. Any input would help. Thankyou

Hi guys, I was hoping someone might have this information. I'm going to be attempting to swap out the original rancho shocks in the front with Bilstein 5100s, and wanted to know if anybody has the torque settings for all the bolts involved in the job? Having a hell of a time trying to find any information and I don't have a Helm manual to help me. Can anyone help?

By Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 6/18/2014 General Motors has released the final engine power figures for the up coming 2015 Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon. The standard 2.5L four-cylinder engine will produce 200-horsepower and 191 ft-lb of torque while the optional 3.6L six-cylinder engine will be rated at 305-horsepower and 269 ft-lb. Properly equipped, the mid-size truck duo will be rated to tow up to 7,000lbs when it goes on sale later this year. No further information on the optional 2016 2.8L Duramax diesel engine was released at this time. Chevrolet/GMC Press Release Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Top Segment in Power DETROIT – The 2015 Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon will have the most horsepower in the midsized truck segment when they go on sale this fall. The Colorado and Canyon’s available engines provide customers choices to fit their varied lifestyles. The 2.5L I-4 has been rated at 200 horsepower and 191 lb-ft of torque, while the 3.6L V-6 is rated at 305 horsepower and 269 lb-ft of torque. The Colorado and Canyon will also provide class-leading maximum trailering capabilities, with the capacity to tow up to 7,000 pounds when properly equipped. That’s more than enough to take a truck full of friends, gear in the bed, and a trailer full of toys to your favorite weekend adventure. Each engine features direct injection and variable valve timing to make the most of power and efficiency. Both engines are based on proven engine designs found throughout the General Motors’ family, but are optimized for the demands of truck use with the latest technology for improving performance and efficiency. This includes torque at lower RPMs for better towing power and a more confident feeling while pulling a trailer. Both engines are matched to a six-speed automatic transmission; a six-speed manual is available on select extended cab 2WD models. The six-speed automatic is tuned specifically for the truck engines, offering features like auto grade braking and tow/haul mode. “Every decision we made considered the wants and needs of midsize truck customers. The 2015 Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon are engineered to deliver class leading horsepower,” said Anita Burke, vehicle chief engineer for Midsize Trucks. “Not everyone needs the size or the capability of a full-sized pickup. Now customers have a viable option in a smaller package.” Class-leading horsepower also comes with efficiency, courtesy of dual-overhead camshafts with variable valve timing, direct injection, and jet-spray piston cooling, while aluminum blocks and forged-steel crankshafts ensure a long-life cycle. The Colorado and Canyon will be assembled at GM’s Wentzville, Mo., assembly plant with start of production in fall 2014. Attached Images: Click here to view the article

Hello, my name is Kyle. I am new to GM-Trucks.com and am just starting to really get into do it yourself projects. I will be taking my 1987 GMC S15 pickup down to florida next week for the Daytona 500 from New Jersey. But first I need to replace the belt tensioner. I understand the part of taking it off and putting the new one on but in videos I keep watching them keep mentioning something about the torque when I tighten the new tensioner. When tightening it I don't just tighten it with a socket? I need a torque wrench? Any help or tips you guys or girls can provide me with for this project would be greatly apprciated. Thanks!!!

What can i do to gain the most low end torque out of my 09 5.3?

Im new to the forum, just got a k&n intake put on yesterday. I read changing out the stock muffler will reduce low end torque. Is there a muffler that can increase low end torque? Around 1-2K rpms? Thanks