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Found 7 results

  1. Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
  2. Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 with the dreaded whine that seems to be the torque converter. I am almost certain that is what it is. The only video I’ve found that has the same exact sound is here How hard is it to pull the transmission just to swap out a nee TC? Does that sound like the TC or the pump? Anything I need to be sure I do? Truck is still driving fine, but not sure for how long. Any tips would be appreciated. Also looking for the best TC that will last.
  3. Hi guys, I have a 2003 Silverado 4x4 with a 4.8 and 3.73s and auto trans. My catalytic converters were very plugged up and I ended up cutting them open, removing all of the material inside, and welding them back together. The truck has run much better since doing this. The problem is, since doing this i have been getting about 13.8-14 mpg with it. This is driving the same route i had been getting 16-17mpg previously. I am thinking that this has something to do with the fact that i left the o2 sensors in place. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive fix/ improvement for this, because this is just a rusted out daily driver truck with 160k that I don't really want to put a ton of money into. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before I tried a few of my ideas. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, i am aware that this is technically illegal, but there are no emissions tests in my state, so running no cats is not a huge issue for me. thanks
  4. Okay, Algore and company please leave the thread now and tune in to the most recent global warming propaganda station, as offensive stuff will follow. If you have a problem with your cat converters clogging, and you end up gutting them (even temporarily to avoid engine damage), you may note some horrible gas mileage. My truck... a 1996 K3500, 4 door, 8 foot bed, with 5.7 Vortec engine, 4L80e transmission. My mileage went to 7.5 mph (yes, literally) after opening converters. I had been getting 11 to 12 mpg. Fuel was so rich it would fog you out sitting at the drive thru. :o I got lots of advice from various folks, up to and including that I needed to just "bite the bullet" and replace both cats and o2's or the truck would never get correct fuel mileage. And the guy with the spinner in his ball cap of course points out that opening up the converters is ILLEGAL. (he likes to put that in all caps)... And his name is Ogilvie, regardless of what his forum handle happens to be. But a GM tech who is a friend of mine told me to unplug the rear 2 oxygen sensors and see what happened. That in fact worked *perfectly*... my truck began to run like it used to, and mileage went back to 11 to 12 mph. I do realize there is a way to use anti-fouling spark plug spacers to offset the 02's in the front (maybe?) to create a temperature difference, and get rid of the check engine light. But my front 02's after 22 years don't want to budge. I post this just in case it may help someone out there with the same problem. Dan
  5. Howdy, I own a 2010 Silverado that is doing some weird stuff. First off, let me tell you the mods that are done: Yank 2800 Stall, TSP long tubes, Borla Cat-Back system, K&N cold air intake, some random after market spark plug wires that came off a 2011 Camaro SS, and it has a custom tune done with HP tuners. This is a 5.3 LC9 with a 6l80 transmission (with stock clutches besides the stall). Now let me tell you the issue. If I am cruising at low speeds and mash into the gas it will sometimes wig out. It shoots the rpm's to 6k and unlocks and locks the doors (almost like it's trying to throw it in park). This doesn't happen all the time, only at low speeds and if I haven't touched the gas in awhile. I'm almost ready to pull the converter off and throw the stock one back on, but part of me thinks it might be an electrical issue. I had the transmission pulled out and the stall rebuilt back in December and my transmission guy said it's one of cleanest 6l80's he has ever seen, so I'm hoping its not my clutches. Let me know if y'all know anything about this type of problem, but everyone I've talked to so far has no clue. This sucks because I was planning on doing a TSP cam and DOD delete this summer, but that will have to wait! -David
  6. I have 2012 Sierra 5.3 with a 4l60e trans. As of lately there has been a shuttering raging from 30 to 40 MPH . Its like going over the safety bumps on the side of the road. Its not the tires or the U joints, i ruled those out. Im thinking either the Tc itself or the solenoid is bad. If i keep it at 30 it will shutter and when I press the brake to see if it stops , it wont, the shuttering will continue . When i turn the tow mode on, the shutter will disappear. Any input would help. Thankyou
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