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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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Thought that this might be a thread of interest and maybe a way for some to keep track of their oil changes. Basically post the vehicle you changed the oil on, at what mileage and how long you go on the oil change. If you follow the oil life monitor (OLM) then post at what percent it was reading at the time of the change. Also what brand oil/weight and oil filter you use. Here is an example; 7/21/18 2002 Silverado 182,157 total miles on truck 5,147 miles on oil OLM at 0% Oil AMSOIL Signature Series 10w-30 out SS 0w-20 in Ea064 filter out and Ea030 filter on Sent sample off to Dysonanalysis to see how this sample did. Reason for so short is I changed out the oil pan, intake gaskets and rear main seal so there will be some sealant in there somewhere. My oil consumption went to 0 after the intake gasket change. So it must have had a small leak. I use to go through a qt in 5k miles. No more smoke on start up after pulling the trailer either so I'm happy. Also I have been running E85 for most of this oil change and I want to see what effect it has had on the oil. -
I have the 4.3 L V6 Silverado that calls for 6 quarts of oil. However, if I put 6 quarts in the truck it seems to be well past the full “waffle mark“ (crosshatch fill zone)on the dipstick. It actually almost goes up to the point where the dipstick reader and the wire connect. Seems awfully high. However, if I put 5 1/2 quarts in it, it almost reaches the top of the waffle impression. and yes, I completely emptied the oil and drained it on a flat surface. in fact, when you read the dipstick with 6 quarts of oil in it, it’s almost hard to tell that the oil is actually going well above the top of the full mark of the dipstick because it tapers off at the top. If you hold it in the perfect light, you can tell that it is well above the waffle mark Anyone else notice this oddity in the dipstick reading?
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Hope nobody minds, but I'm going to start up a Quick Reference Guide for common parts/fluids/bulbs for the T1 HD trucks. I'll try to keep it updated if anything changes. If a mod wants to sticky it, I'm down for that too. Owners Manuals Chevrolet: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/silverado-2500-3500/2020-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual.pdf GMC: https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/gmc/sierra-2500-3500/2020-gmc-sierra-owners-manual.pdf Diesel Supplement: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/multimodel/2020-6.6-duramax-diesel-supplement.pdf Oil Changes 6.6 gas L8T (VIN code "7") Capacity: 8 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19383806 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 6.6 Diesel L5P (VIN code "Y") Capacity: 10 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF26 / 89017527 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 Engine Air Filters 6.6 Gas: A3244C / 84121219 6.6 Diesel: A3248C / 84554703 Engine Fuel Filter 6.6 Diesel L5P: TP1015 / 23304096 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 / 13508023 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 23387857 Spark Plugs 6.6 Gas L8T: 41-114 / 12622441 Glow Plugs 6.6 Diesel L5P: 68G / 12690238 Fuel Tank Sizes 6.6 Gas L8T, All Box/Cab Configurations: 36 Gallons 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Long Box/Crew Cab Standard and Long Box Configurations: 36 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Standard Box Configuration: 29 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Regular Cab Long Box Configuration: 28 Gallons. Diesel Exhaust Fluid Tank Capacity: 7 gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine): DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine): DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid. Transmission Capacities (Approximate): 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine) Pan Drop: 6.0 quarts Overhaul: 10.5 quarts Complete System: 12.4 quarts 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine) Overhual: 20.6 quarts Complete System: 22.08 quarts Transfer Case Fluid Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: Dexron VI Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: Dexron VI Transfer Case Fluid Capacities Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: 2.4 Quarts Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: 1.6 Quarts Brake System Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 3 brake fluid): DOT 3 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 4 brake fluid): DOT 4 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m Front Axle 9.25" Axle Lubricant: 75w85 Synthetic High Efficiency Lubricant, 10-4091 / 19300457 Capacity: 1.9 Quarts Rear Axle 11.5" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts Rear Axle 12.0" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts -
Currently working on a 6.0L V8 (2000 LQ9 I believe) and cannot seem to locate the PCV valve and hose (see image for reference). I was under the impression that they weren’t integrated into the valve cover until around 2005. The body of this truck is a 2000 Sierra 1500 but the engine was replaced from the 4.8 to the 6.0 at some point so I’m guessing for a lot of the component locations. First time poster, any helps appreciated. -
my 6.0 with 230xxx has low oil pressure but no knocks maybe a little tick though. When i bought the truck it had maybe 5-9psi cold dropping to 0 warm. Thought it may have been a pickup tube oring or oil pump so i went ahead and replaced the pickup tube, o ring, and pump. it now gets 20 cold 7 warm at idle and 0 warm at idle and 20 warm running 1700 rpm. Which is a lot better but still a problem. I am aware the bearings may be shot and need a total rebuild, that is not out of the options. It is not electrical or sensor based issue same psi with a mechanical gauge. However I need to replace my harmonic balancer and take off the timing cover again so i was looking at it and could it be as simple as a o camshaft retainer plate? it has a build in thin o ring which if fails will drain pressure as it connects the oil gallys. Am I correct in thinking that this could solve my issues? Any input is helpful, thanks.
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Hi there, So I ride a 18 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L and keep getting gas in my oil, my high pressure fuel pump let go in March of 2019 (40000kms ish) and was the first time I got gas in the oil, they replaced it and it was good until late December of 2019, I drove 800 kms to home, parked at the restaurant and went to go home and got a bunch of codes, saying that bank was to lean, bank 1 to rich, bank 2 to lean, bank 2 to rich and a open circuit fault code. The truck was in limp mode but got it to the dealership, they found a short to a relay for the hp fuel pump and my crank case filled with gas (same as the last time but now the truck at 69000kms) they tested the O2’s, fuel injectors, injector cycles and such, they all passed the test so they figured the hp fuel pump went, so they replaced it. I then drove not even 3000kms and my truck was doing 33L/100kms downhill at 104km/h, no codes or engine lights. Checked the oil and it was over filled and smelled of gas, brought into the dealership and they said the Intake tube after the MAF was loose causing the engine to over fuel, now not even 2000kms (3 weeks) into the dealership “fixing” the issue, my oil is over filled and smells strong like gasoline. Any ideas on what the issue could be? I don’t want to keep paying for an oil change every 2-3000kms and 100$ deductible for my extended warranty. I know it’s not healthy for the engine and GM Canada won’t do anything about it.. Any ideas as to what the issue might be would be awesome, thanks
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John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 10/26/2015 GM-Trucks.com wonders if you wait for the car to remind you to change your oil, or if you change it more proactively. Our own Zane Merva is not the type of guy to wait for instructions. He recently drained the oil in his family's new Buick Encore and felt glad he did. Zane tells us that the oil maintenance reminder said there was still 43% remaining in the factory oil's life. However when he drained it, it was "very dark." The good news is that at least on the Encore, changing the oil at home is easy and took only fifteen minutes start to finish. He filled it up with Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic motor oil. What is your view? Should oil in a vehicle you plan to keep beyond the warranty be changed sooner than the vehicle says? Or do you think it is better to only do what is required when the vehicle's algorithm says the time is right? If you do change your oil yourself, tell us why. Is it to save money, be involved in caring for something you value, or for convenience?
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Took my 2017 Chevy Silverado z71 to the dealer today . Engine was ticking on top end sounded like a lifter tick and slight deeper knock in bottom end . oil presure was all over the place would go from 65 psi to 25 psi at same rpm. I have 44,000 miles. Has anyone else had this issue? With the strike in play who know how long I will be without my truck.
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Hi guys I have a question about the Viscosity Grade that I can use on my 2016 GMC Sierra 5.3 engine, the recommended oil viscosity is 0w20 but I live in an extremely hot country (I'm talking 130-140 degrees) and I’m not sure if this is the best oil for my truck or not it has around 100k miles now and I’m thinking that its time to change it to 5w30 but the owners manual recommends 0w20 so I’m not sure if I can change to 5w30 or not. -
Has anyone installed a water/methanol inject kit on any of the small blocks (2014-2018)? I personally have the LV3 4.3L V6. Looking to eliminate the carbon build up, caused by direct injection, on the intake valves. Right now I'm trusting that Sea Foam is doing the job every 30k miles. EDIT* I'm also interested in the increased performance after tuning. I am aware that a catch can would eliminate the majority of carbon build up on the valves.
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2016 Silverado LTZ 5.3L I had 8 injectors replaced at Chevrolet 5/13/19. Code read p050d (NoWarranty) Check engine light had come on before but it would go away. I just now took it in for injectors. Every time I’m in heavy traffic I get home and it ticks almost like a Diesel. Im saying diesel because I had a gas 2005 F150 that sounded like a diesel. There is No check engine Light on now. I know something is wrong. What could be the problem? What is it that can cause the motor to work extra hard and feel strained. I still feel a rough idle when I let go of the gas. -
Just wanted to show this to whoever is interested. Other weights are also on sale. PepBoys has Pennzoil Platinum oil on sale for $31.98 per 5qt + $15 PepBoys rebate per jug so $16.98 after rebate + $10 rebate from Pennzoil which stacks on top = $7 per 5qt jug. Limit 2. https://www.pepboys.com/pennzoil-platinum-high-mileage-motor-oil-0w-20-5-qt-/product/1809055?quantity=1 PepBoys rebate form: https://s3.amazonaws.com/pepboys-image-production/images/promotions/PBA-190501.pdf Pennzoil rebate form: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/15/54/30/45/99/12/15543045991249._CB467049274_.pdf -
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV - https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-mobil-advantage/mobil-1-performance/ford-f-150-motor-oil-results?WT.ac=Home-JT_Truck_and_SUV_Test Anyone using this yet? Don't want to start an oil debate.
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Hi everybody, Just bought my first GMC a week ago. It is a 2016 with 55,000 miles 5.3 SLT 4x4 with Z71. I looked the car over pretty good but noticed something after we got home. Is this the common leaking crimps I have been learning about on these vehicles with transmission lines? I have to crawl under the vehicle this weekend but this was the picture I was able to get. The gunk had no smell to it at all. And not sure if the Rancho shocks are completely shot on this Z71 package but on the highway and my first speed bump the words....Old Cadillac came to mind about how much it wallows. Thanks everybody for your time....
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Here it is Nov 2018 time for another drawing. 1st prize is an OE oil change. Winner will need to contact me with how many qts they need for their vehicle and what weight they need. What is available is 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30 and 15w-40, 10w-30 for the diesel crowd. 2nd prize is a bottle of AMSOIL's P.i. Performance Improver 3rd prize is a can of AMSOIL's MP Metal Protector. To enter to win, all you need to do is post one time in this thread. More than one post will disqualify you. Drawing ends at midnight the 18th of Nov 2018. Good luck everyone!
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Hey guys looking for all the advice I can get. I have done a fair bit of research already. However, I am going to change the transmission fluid in my 2007 (New Body) Silverado. If it matters it is a 4.8 V8, 4x4, regular cab and long bed. 1.) I do not know exactly what filter kit I need. I went by Advanced Auto Parts and the guy told me you usually count the bolts on the pan but he said for this specific model there are two different ones. I called General Motors and talked to what I am guessing is a foreigner that lives in another country. I gave him my VIN and he could not tell me what I needed to know. Does anyone happen to know which one I need? 2.) My truck has 95,000 on it and to be honest he oil does not look good. When I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off it is pretty black/burnt but there is definitely still a little red to it. I was told that if it was in really bad shape not to change it because I know I can risk damage. I know this is true but not sure if it has been neglected to that point. It is sort of weird that I can still see red meaning someone might have dropped the pan at one point and added oil in. I bought the truck used. To try and keep this short I will say I am pretty well researched from YouTube and other forums. However, any advice from people that have a similar truck to mine would be greatly appreciated. For instance, I know that I am going to have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan. Just so you guys know I plan to remove the transmission in line to the radiator and let it pump out as much as it wants. After it stops I am going to put it back together, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then put it back together. Also when I go to get a plastic hose to guide the old oil out does anyone know what size hose is a good fit for my truck? Also where can I buy it, my local auto parts store? I appreciate any help in advance.
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Hey I will try to keep this short and to the point. For some time, I have been considering whether or not to sell my 2007 Silverado. It is coming up on needing a lot of work and I figure if I can scrape up the cash to make the payment on a newer Silverado/Sierra it might be worth it. Before I forgot it is 4x4 and has about 95,000 miles on it. It is a long bed and has the 4.8 V8 engine. Anyway, the truck has been suffering from what I would call 'considerable' rust underneath to the frame and now it has began to get around the bottom of my paint job and chip it off. I was thinking about sanding it down (or having someone do it for me) and painting the lower six inches or so black. I have seen it done on a lot of trucks. It is also coming up on new brake pads, possibly calibers and rotors as well. Also it has never had the transmission oil changed so I am planning on changing the filter in the pan and doing that as well. So basically I am sort of beginning to wonder if I should consider selling it and purchasing a newer one. However, the truck has never left me on the side of the road and runs great. -
I purchased a 2014 gmc 5.3 with 80k. the lifters were all replaced under warranty. soon after i noticed 10 psi oil pressure after driving 25 min on highway. dealer replaced oil pump still has 10 psi after 25 min of driving. when i first start up its at 40, oil pressure goes to 70 when rpm exceeds 3500 rpm. oil pressure starts to drop to 20 after 10 min and seems fine. after 25 min it drops to 10 on guage. i had oil pressure checked with mechanical guage and confermed guage is accurate. i asked dealer to che k the screen under oil pressure switch they said it was clean. at this time dealer says nothing is wrong due to specs at 1000,2000,3000 rpm. i called gm customer care and they said to get different dealer to look at. i did and they confermed rpm at different rpm and charged me 118.00 gm customer care did nothing to help me out. i have never seen any truck with 10 psi at idle. does anyone else seem to have this issue? -
I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.
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Good morning guys, Obviously I'm new to the forums, so thank you in advance for your understanding! A little background on my situation -- I always make sure to maintain my vehicle to the best of my ability (both proactively and within my financial budget), but my Chevy Silverado just hit it's 75,000 mile mark with no previous transmission fluid maintenance. 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 (Standard Work Vehicle) Pre-Certified with 3,008 miles on it, pretty much brand-new -- Purchased in Oct, 2013 4.3 Liters V6 Engine 75,600 miles currently The only thing it's ever towed is the smallest Uhaul for about 600/miles, and sod back in the day. For the past couple of years I've only driven it to and from work (50 miles round trip in city/highway), but for the most part this past year my new place of employment is super close, so that dwindled to around 25 miles round-trip. I've only ever replaced the engine oil and filter regularly, and tires a year ago, so when it comes to how I should maintenance the transmission oil, that's a bit foreign to me unfortunately. I've heard if you make it passed 70k with no issues, it's not wise to flush it out entirely, but more so the 50/50 (old/new) method? I would like some advice from you tenured vets on this, and to see if I should take it to the Chevy dealer or a transmission specialist? Thanks again! -
I am not sure how many use Mobil 1 in their truck, but you can get a filter and 5 qt of oil for $29.99 plus tax at Auto Zone. It's a decent deal with the filter included. Once 5 quarts and a filter are in your cart, the coupon automatically applies. You can pick up at the store or, if you have Shoprunner, you get free shipping. And it comes in 5 individual quarts, so you can use them as top-off or combined with a jug for 8 quarts like my 5.3 takes. Makes for ~$50 oil change, which isn't bad for everything. And I'm not affiliated with Auto Zone or anything, just want to let you know, not sure how long it lasts. Here is what I used: Mobil1 Oil Filter Part Number: M1-212 Alternate Part Number: M1-212A Location / Category: Oil Filter Mobil Engine Oil Part Number: 124184 Alternate Part Number: 105891 Location / Category: Engine Oil -
I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?
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Hey Forum, Regarding the oil drain plug on the 2014 5.3L, is anyone using aftermarket magnetic plugs? What about a magnetic oil filter sleeve, or both? Just curious because last weekend I changed the fluid in my front & rear differentials, and transfer case - all of which have magnetic plugs on them. However, none of of them have filters so, I assume adding a magnetic drain plug or filter sleeve would not make much difference since that is what the oil filter is for. Again, just curious to see everyone's thoughts!
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I am wanting to start changing the fluids in my truck since its so much more expensive for the dealership to do it. What fluids do y'all recommend for oil, transfer case, transmission, etc.?
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First post here, but I am in need of help. I just dropped my truck off at the local dealer for mysterious oil consumption. It is a 2013 GMC 2500hd with the 6.0 gasser. It doesn't leak enough to leave any puddles (rear main is a little wet but that's it) and it doesn't smoke at all. My truck is losing a quart of oil or more every 50-100 miles and the tech at GMC called and he has no idea why this would be happening. They're going to drive it to try and prove it's losing oil but i have found that one long drive doesn't seem to burn a lot of oil. It's after a week of my 2 mile drives to work every day and the occasional trip to the store and what not that I notice a quart has vanished from the dipstick. Please help
