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Hi everybody, Just bought my first GMC a week ago. It is a 2016 with 55,000 miles 5.3 SLT 4x4 with Z71. I looked the car over pretty good but noticed something after we got home. Is this the common leaking crimps I have been learning about on these vehicles with transmission lines? I have to crawl under the vehicle this weekend but this was the picture I was able to get. The gunk had no smell to it at all. And not sure if the Rancho shocks are completely shot on this Z71 package but on the highway and my first speed bump the words....Old Cadillac came to mind about how much it wallows. Thanks everybody for your time....

Here it is Nov 2018 time for another drawing. 1st prize is an OE oil change. Winner will need to contact me with how many qts they need for their vehicle and what weight they need. What is available is 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30 and 15w-40, 10w-30 for the diesel crowd. 2nd prize is a bottle of AMSOIL's P.i. Performance Improver 3rd prize is a can of AMSOIL's MP Metal Protector. To enter to win, all you need to do is post one time in this thread. More than one post will disqualify you. Drawing ends at midnight the 18th of Nov 2018. Good luck everyone!

Hey guys looking for all the advice I can get. I have done a fair bit of research already. However, I am going to change the transmission fluid in my 2007 (New Body) Silverado. If it matters it is a 4.8 V8, 4x4, regular cab and long bed. 1.) I do not know exactly what filter kit I need. I went by Advanced Auto Parts and the guy told me you usually count the bolts on the pan but he said for this specific model there are two different ones. I called General Motors and talked to what I am guessing is a foreigner that lives in another country. I gave him my VIN and he could not tell me what I needed to know. Does anyone happen to know which one I need? 2.) My truck has 95,000 on it and to be honest he oil does not look good. When I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off it is pretty black/burnt but there is definitely still a little red to it. I was told that if it was in really bad shape not to change it because I know I can risk damage. I know this is true but not sure if it has been neglected to that point. It is sort of weird that I can still see red meaning someone might have dropped the pan at one point and added oil in. I bought the truck used. To try and keep this short I will say I am pretty well researched from YouTube and other forums. However, any advice from people that have a similar truck to mine would be greatly appreciated. For instance, I know that I am going to have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan. Just so you guys know I plan to remove the transmission in line to the radiator and let it pump out as much as it wants. After it stops I am going to put it back together, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then put it back together. Also when I go to get a plastic hose to guide the old oil out does anyone know what size hose is a good fit for my truck? Also where can I buy it, my local auto parts store? I appreciate any help in advance.

Hey I will try to keep this short and to the point. For some time, I have been considering whether or not to sell my 2007 Silverado. It is coming up on needing a lot of work and I figure if I can scrape up the cash to make the payment on a newer Silverado/Sierra it might be worth it. Before I forgot it is 4x4 and has about 95,000 miles on it. It is a long bed and has the 4.8 V8 engine. Anyway, the truck has been suffering from what I would call 'considerable' rust underneath to the frame and now it has began to get around the bottom of my paint job and chip it off. I was thinking about sanding it down (or having someone do it for me) and painting the lower six inches or so black. I have seen it done on a lot of trucks. It is also coming up on new brake pads, possibly calibers and rotors as well. Also it has never had the transmission oil changed so I am planning on changing the filter in the pan and doing that as well. So basically I am sort of beginning to wonder if I should consider selling it and purchasing a newer one. However, the truck has never left me on the side of the road and runs great.

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 10/26/2015 GM-Trucks.com wonders if you wait for the car to remind you to change your oil, or if you change it more proactively. Our own Zane Merva is not the type of guy to wait for instructions. He recently drained the oil in his family's new Buick Encore and felt glad he did. Zane tells us that the oil maintenance reminder said there was still 43% remaining in the factory oil's life. However when he drained it, it was "very dark." The good news is that at least on the Encore, changing the oil at home is easy and took only fifteen minutes start to finish. He filled it up with Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic motor oil. What is your view? Should oil in a vehicle you plan to keep beyond the warranty be changed sooner than the vehicle says? Or do you think it is better to only do what is required when the vehicle's algorithm says the time is right? If you do change your oil yourself, tell us why. Is it to save money, be involved in caring for something you value, or for convenience?

Thought that this might be a thread of interest and maybe a way for some to keep track of their oil changes. Basically post the vehicle you changed the oil on, at what mileage and how long you go on the oil change. If you follow the oil life monitor (OLM) then post at what percent it was reading at the time of the change. Also what brand oil/weight and oil filter you use. Here is an example; 7/21/18 2002 Silverado 182,157 total miles on truck 5,147 miles on oil OLM at 0% Oil AMSOIL Signature Series 10w-30 out SS 0w-20 in Ea064 filter out and Ea030 filter on Sent sample off to Dysonanalysis to see how this sample did. Reason for so short is I changed out the oil pan, intake gaskets and rear main seal so there will be some sealant in there somewhere. My oil consumption went to 0 after the intake gasket change. So it must have had a small leak. I use to go through a qt in 5k miles. No more smoke on start up after pulling the trailer either so I'm happy. Also I have been running E85 for most of this oil change and I want to see what effect it has had on the oil.

I purchased a 2014 gmc 5.3 with 80k. the lifters were all replaced under warranty. soon after i noticed 10 psi oil pressure after driving 25 min on highway. dealer replaced oil pump still has 10 psi after 25 min of driving. when i first start up its at 40, oil pressure goes to 70 when rpm exceeds 3500 rpm. oil pressure starts to drop to 20 after 10 min and seems fine. after 25 min it drops to 10 on guage. i had oil pressure checked with mechanical guage and confermed guage is accurate. i asked dealer to che k the screen under oil pressure switch they said it was clean. at this time dealer says nothing is wrong due to specs at 1000,2000,3000 rpm. i called gm customer care and they said to get different dealer to look at. i did and they confermed rpm at different rpm and charged me 118.00 gm customer care did nothing to help me out. i have never seen any truck with 10 psi at idle. does anyone else seem to have this issue?

I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.

Good morning guys, Obviously I'm new to the forums, so thank you in advance for your understanding! A little background on my situation -- I always make sure to maintain my vehicle to the best of my ability (both proactively and within my financial budget), but my Chevy Silverado just hit it's 75,000 mile mark with no previous transmission fluid maintenance. 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 (Standard Work Vehicle) Pre-Certified with 3,008 miles on it, pretty much brand-new -- Purchased in Oct, 2013 4.3 Liters V6 Engine 75,600 miles currently The only thing it's ever towed is the smallest Uhaul for about 600/miles, and sod back in the day. For the past couple of years I've only driven it to and from work (50 miles round trip in city/highway), but for the most part this past year my new place of employment is super close, so that dwindled to around 25 miles round-trip. I've only ever replaced the engine oil and filter regularly, and tires a year ago, so when it comes to how I should maintenance the transmission oil, that's a bit foreign to me unfortunately. I've heard if you make it passed 70k with no issues, it's not wise to flush it out entirely, but more so the 50/50 (old/new) method? I would like some advice from you tenured vets on this, and to see if I should take it to the Chevy dealer or a transmission specialist? Thanks again!

I am not sure how many use Mobil 1 in their truck, but you can get a filter and 5 qt of oil for $29.99 plus tax at Auto Zone. It's a decent deal with the filter included. Once 5 quarts and a filter are in your cart, the coupon automatically applies. You can pick up at the store or, if you have Shoprunner, you get free shipping. And it comes in 5 individual quarts, so you can use them as top-off or combined with a jug for 8 quarts like my 5.3 takes. Makes for ~$50 oil change, which isn't bad for everything. And I'm not affiliated with Auto Zone or anything, just want to let you know, not sure how long it lasts. Here is what I used: Mobil1 Oil Filter Part Number: M1-212 Alternate Part Number: M1-212A Location / Category: Oil Filter Mobil Engine Oil Part Number: 124184 Alternate Part Number: 105891 Location / Category: Engine Oil

I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?

Hey Forum, Regarding the oil drain plug on the 2014 5.3L, is anyone using aftermarket magnetic plugs? What about a magnetic oil filter sleeve, or both? Just curious because last weekend I changed the fluid in my front & rear differentials, and transfer case - all of which have magnetic plugs on them. However, none of of them have filters so, I assume adding a magnetic drain plug or filter sleeve would not make much difference since that is what the oil filter is for. Again, just curious to see everyone's thoughts!

I am wanting to start changing the fluids in my truck since its so much more expensive for the dealership to do it. What fluids do y'all recommend for oil, transfer case, transmission, etc.?

Has anyone installed a water/methanol inject kit on any of the small blocks (2014-2018)? I personally have the LV3 4.3L V6. Looking to eliminate the carbon build up, caused by direct injection, on the intake valves. Right now I'm trusting that Sea Foam is doing the job every 30k miles. EDIT* I'm also interested in the increased performance after tuning. I am aware that a catch can would eliminate the majority of carbon build up on the valves.

First post here, but I am in need of help. I just dropped my truck off at the local dealer for mysterious oil consumption. It is a 2013 GMC 2500hd with the 6.0 gasser. It doesn't leak enough to leave any puddles (rear main is a little wet but that's it) and it doesn't smoke at all. My truck is losing a quart of oil or more every 50-100 miles and the tech at GMC called and he has no idea why this would be happening. They're going to drive it to try and prove it's losing oil but i have found that one long drive doesn't seem to burn a lot of oil. It's after a week of my 2 mile drives to work every day and the occasional trip to the store and what not that I notice a quart has vanished from the dipstick. Please help

is it normal for the oil pressure guage to jump from 40 psi to 45 psi while normal driving?

I recently bought a brand new 2018 GMC Sierra Elevation SLE. After having it for a few days and putting on 500 km, I decided to check the fluid levels. I noticed that the oil was on the lower side, meaning, it almost showed that there was minimal oil in the engine. I find this strange, seeing as normally you see the oil bubble on the dip stick between the 2 indicators. In my case, there was no proof of an oil bubble. It seems very faint and thin-looking on the dip stick. Just curious if this is how the new GMC's are, or am I just running on seriously low oil?

Sure a funnel works some-what for pouring the 8.5 quarts in your 5.3 when your doing an oil change. Trying to help everyone with a tip I used this weekend that not only was easier but made me happy. No longer did I have to hold or have drips from the bottles while trying to pour or hit the oil fill opening. Attached some photos of a Lisle Funnel kit that's supposed to be for radiator fill. It comes with a half dozen adapters... one just happened to fit like a glove. Adapter E in the kit plus an elbow it comes with. Hope this helps some of you. This also has a plug and cap to keep the funnel clean when not in use. Most Auto Parts Stores stock this. Probably Amazon too. I labeled Adapter E with a sharpie for next time.

So after the free oil changes I realized it would take at least an hour or a little more to get oil changed for 80$ Even with appointment. And each oil change the dip stick would say its 1qt overfilled. so I decided to start changing the oil myself. And In doing this I learned a big lesson late in life. make sure the damn o-ring is still in the old filter! This has never happend to me ever! Embarrassing as heck! Oil everywhere, luckily I was out by the old shed and not on my concrete. Had to clean up my toxic waste and now somehow clean the bottom of my truck. So even after all that I'm still changing my own oil from here on out. another thing I learned is that after 5k the oil filter gets really hard to get off. The old filter Deforms from trying to break it free it get so tight. i use dexos o- 20w.

I have a 2007 2500hd with the 6.0l. Driving home the other day the oil cooler line at the top of radiator blew off. Truck shut down immediately. Now that lines have been replaced, truck wont start. Timing chain and tensioner are good. Appear to have no compression in cyl. 1. While trying to start if I hold it to the floor it will backfire. This truck ran great with no knocking before all this happened.

Hello, Everyone I know this seems like an unimportant thing to complain about, but today, while driving, I noticed that my oil pressure was too high. I pulled over and shut the engine off to investigate, only to discover that my Oil pressure Gauge Needle is Offset, and I don't know how it happened, is this normal? The gauge seems to read just fine, just with an offset of almost half the sweep Does anyone have a fix for this? I don't have OCD or anything but I just find it very annoying, since the truck has less than a year with me Thanks in advance, Here are a couple of pics, truck completely off, and at idle:

has anyone invested in an oil catch can? if so, what one and what kind of success??? Worth it?

So I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ. Just had it into the dealer for transmission repair. My tranny has been shifting very hard since I had it. I noticed shifting hard at 10k miles and had it in. They told me it was normal break in period. It wasn't bad but I had a 2005 that I put 239k on it never shifted like mine. I had 97k and it finally went. It wasn't right from day one. The dealership told me it is the torque converter clutches. They are covering under warranty...thank GOD it went before 3k miles. I ordered the towing package and integrated brake controller with trans cooler. I only pulled a little camper 8 times in the last three year less than 5000 lbs. Really frustrated because I change my oil Use AMS Oil and K&N oil filter. I didn't have time to change the oil because of the transmission issues so while I am waiting on parts I called the dealer to tell them to change the oil while I was waiting on the parts of the transmission to ship. They said they were notified by GM to put 8 quarts of oil instead of the 8.5 quarts per owners manual (because I questioned what oil they use) because I'm very picky. I was really frustrated that as an owner we were not notified that they switched to 8 quarts instead of 8.5 that I've been putting in. No reason this tranny should have the issues. I understand things happen and you get bad parts but I've read several posts about hard shifting. No excuse why we were not notified that it takes 8 quarts instead of 8.5. I baby my truck and I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe with 207k, 2009 Chevy Malibu, 1999 Chevy Silverado 2500 with 234 miles,...I've been a die hard chevy fan for 20 years. My first car was a 1988 Chevy Camaro and next was a Beretta. I've so disappointed with the communication and lack of customer feedback with them. My best friend just ordered a 2017 Duramax loaded for 72k price tag and it has been back to the dealer 3 times with leaks. The dealer has been great in communication but has not explanation why the oil capacity hasn't been sent to smart phone, snail mail, or phone calls. Now I'm wondering what the right oil capacity.... Really frustrated with Chevy and now my wife wants a Chevy Tahoe but I'm wondering if I should finally cut bait and look at Ford or Toyota?

Hey guys, It been few years now maintaining it... I have 2005 sierra 1500 z71 5.3L extended cab... I gotten it at 80,000 and now it at 182k, i have since replaced the alternator, water pump, coolant hose, flush the tranmission fluids, and now i noticed now it be getting hot while im idling and the oil pressure gauge will be low but when i am driving the oil pressure gauge goes back to middle and the coolant temp will go back to the middle instead being hot... it happen when im going through a stop like a traffic jam... it wouldnt last 5min without getting low oil pressure(although no alarm light) and high engine coolant temp (coolant warning light came on) reaching... i been racking my brain trying to figure it out what could it be... it same thing all over again, driving normal then come to a stop, a long stop then my oil pressure will dip low and then engine coolant will dip pass the 210 mark and get hot til if i am idle long enough it will flash coolant light on... i open the hood check the engine, hoses, coolant level is good, fan blowing, but still getting hot with no leaks or steams... i really love my truck i really need to resolve this asap... pls help??? G30

Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?