The spray coating from 3M or Rustoleum should do the trick, but I would double check their application steps before purchasing. I think the Amsoil metal protector and HD metal protector products are meant for bare metal but I'm not 100% sure. If you take it to a Line-X dealer, they will take care of the surface prep and application of their product.
You can use several different products to fix this. If its already rusting, you can use a product like rustoleum automotive undercoating, comes in a 32oz can or can get it in a spray-on form. 3M also has some frame undercoating products. Last option would be to have Line-X applied to the frame if you got the $$$. You can also use something like Amsoil Metal protector or Amsoil HD metal protector which is also a spray-on product. If you can find one that is asphalt-based, that is the strongest you buy. Water-based and paraffin-based will be the entry level products but will get the job done. Anything petroleum-based or rubber-based will be your middle grade products.
Nope, I was planning locacting the leak if the stop leak additive did not work, but so far there hasn't been any noticeable drop in pressure. I assume the leak is in the line which others in here have had issues with. My compressor experienced catastrophic failure around 38k and had it replaced with one from NAPA that had a 2 year warranty. So far all had been good minus the recent leak. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Did you check the pressure on the low side port? Should be less 37 PSI. If its less than 30, then you are just running a little low. Recently had to put AC stop leak in my truck and then backfill with refrigerant. My truck was down to 23 psi unfortunately. Going on two weeks now so it seems the stop leak is working.
I opened a claim with GM, which was denied. Then I opened a case with the BBB, which GM also denied. I then filed a case with the Michigan attorney general's office, which GM also denied. So now I have a case with a law firm out of Texas. Law firm name is in my post below. Here is my post:
btj_z71 replied to RamRam's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingThe caliper bolts are ridiculous to get off. You will need an angle socket to get to them. Have a breaker bar handy too. My impact gun is rated around 300ft lbs and could not get them off. Had to use my torque wrench AMD penetrating oil to get them out. - Caliper to knuckle is 170ft lbs (18mm bolt) - Caliper to bracket, slightly past hand tighten, no more than 75ft lbs (15mm bolt I think) Remember to grease the caliper to bracket bolts too
Background - Pushing the parking brake pedal to the floor just barely engages the parking brake. Need to either adjust or replace or both. Two questions I have - 1) Can the parking brake on the 2014 Silverado be adjusted? 2) Are only the shoes needing to be replaced or is there a full hardware kit I need to find as well? The parts diagram on gmparts.com only has the shoes listed as part of the rear brake assembly. Do yall have a video link for the how-to onthe adjustment and/or replacement?
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