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btj_z71

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btj_z71 last won the day on October 10 2018

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About btj_z71

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  1. I suggest letting someone else drive while you ride in the bed (safely of course) and see if you can hear it from there. It could be as simple as a pen or something in the glove box or center console but just sounds likes it's coming from the rear. Acoustics can play tricks on us. I assume you've already done this but ensure that the radio and AC is off too when attempting to identify where the sound is coming from. There may be a loose bracket or clip on the rear end that makes a sound like what you are hearing. Last thought, is to take your truck to a different Chevrolet dealership. Let them know the first place couldn't figure it out and so you're counting on them to get a solution.
  2. Hahaha true, there may be better deals around the corner
  3. I'm sure yall have heard about the 0% for 84 months, plus no payment for the first 120 days available through 3/31. Meaning, this is a great chance to trade up if its it about that time. My 2014 with 98k is still driving like new (stock brake pads and rotors still!), but this offer has got me seriously considering trading up and I am focused on the 3.0L duramax as I do more highway driving than towing. I'd miss the acceleration and towing of the 6.2L if I went with the diesel. But I'd love the fuel economy. Thoughts on this?
  4. Curious too - I've got 97k and running stock brakes 100%, except for Amsoil brake fluid. I had been looking at Wagner OEx pads and rotors for when it comes time to replace. Interested what others have to say on the Wagners.
  5. Same as the other guys, fluid was milky green/gray when I did mine at 60k. Not much material on the magnetic plug though. Oddly enough, transfer case DID have a good amount of material on its magnetic plug. Seems that is normal too.
  6. I suggest checking your oil level. Could be too high or too low.
  7. Morimoto HID or LED - I have the LEDs in the stock projector headlamp and replaced the fog lights with the Morimoto xB square LEDs for 2014 silverado. Pain in the ass to install btw. GTR Lighting Ultra Series 2 are very good too.
  8. Agree with tlaw91. Very likely it's the seal around your third brake light on the cab. Replace the third brake light and you should not have a leak anymore. The next problem is the mold and other damage already done to the headliner. May need to be replaced to avoid respiratory health issues.
  9. The dust covers are always a pain. Sounds strange but take the bulb out, and get the feel for putting on the dust cover correctly. It must line up correctly and then the twist on maneuver takes some elbow grease. It's only a quarter turn to full lock but is tough. On a different note, Morimoto used to sell dust caps with extended lengths. Not sure if they are still available though.
  10. Same as snowcamo said. Turns out mine was the alternator going out and so I replaced the 150amp with a new 170amp. Been fine ever since.
  11. I had something similar, or at least sounds similar, and I used silicone lubricant on all the non-metal parts. Took care of the problem for me!
  12. Go get Amsoil engine flush and power foam products. I used them this past weekend and my ticking noise vanished. I used the upper cylinder lubricant and gas PI too. Quite a difference after throwing all this into the truck. I'm at 94k at this point. I've also used Amsoil products and thus the recommendation. Similar products from other brands should do the same.
  13. Go to Amsoil.com, get the engine and transmission flush product along with their power foam. I recently did this and easily gained 1mpg city, 2 on the hwy. Check your MAF. May be due to get some MAF sensor cleaner from the store and clean it. See if a friend has a tuner or stop by local parts store to see if any codes are present.
  14. I use soft shackles due to the tight area they are in - I got my set from Tactical Recovery Equipment. Have worked out very well for me. https://tacticalrecoveryequipment.com/product-category/soft-shackles/
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