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btj_z71 last won the day on October 10 2018

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About btj_z71

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  1. Call GM customer support, provided them your VIN, and ask for the build sheet. From there, you will be provided with your build sheet and that will give you all the details you need including a list of all your RPO codes. Owners manual can help too.
  2. No, don't do it. Air bags, extra leafs, extended bump stops, etc., do not increase towing or payload. Rather, these products increase the ability for the truck to handle heavy loads. Go for a 2500 or 3500 long bed if a bed camper is what you want.
  3. Check your glove box for the list of RPO codes. From there, you can find out what your truck has and then determine the tow rating. You can also call GM customer service, provide them with your VIN, and ask for the build sheet for your truck. This is handy to have. In either case, keep in mind that persons and cargo in your truck add weight thus reducing the tow rating.
  4. If you are in 4wd, that is expected but should he avoided as it can and will cause damages. To save some time, just check your owner's manual on when to use and not use 4wd.
  5. You can use some of this to help out. Best to use it right after a flush too. I added this and the instant shudder fix. Noticeable difference after 20-30 miles. Has to mix in with all the fluid plus get throughout the torque converter. https://www.lubegard.com/products/platinum/
  6. I'd suggest switching to Falken Wildpeak AT3W. Superb wet weather traction. If you have the rear locker, than the 2nd wheel should lock up after a certain RPM difference between the two wheels (I think 200 or 300 rpm)
  7. Ahh, gotcha. Makes sense now! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  8. On my 2014 1500 I upgraded from the 150amp to the 170amp when it started showing signs of failure. 370amp seems like way too much.
  9. I'm at 98,859 miles on my 2014 Z71 LTZ and so far AC has been my only gripe. I put a CAI on at 23k, custom exhaust at 31k, Hypertech tune at 65-70k-ish, and have done some occassional heavy hauls (50 bags of mulch many times, two 1600lb pallets of stone (two separate trips), towed a skid steer once (well over the tow rating), and been offroad many a times over the years, and other various tasks you can expect a truck to endure over the years, along with spirited driving. I plan on keeping my truck till ~150k before I get another one.
  10. Just an unfortunate series of events. I had the AC problem twice (compressor at 37k, condenser at 95k), but all else has been fine. I was rear ended at 10k and as a result, the frame had to be replaced, and now at 98k, still going strong. Anyways, I plan on buying another Chevrolet. Although if I win the lottery then I'm buying a Ram TRX (Hellcat engine in the truck, Ford Raptor competitor) unless Chevy comes out with the Silverado ZRX by the time I win the lottery of course. Will probably go for the 2500 next time as I plan on getting a RV in a few years.
  11. Amsoil is the best you can get. I have it throughout my truck. Front and rear diffs, transfer case, brake fluid, oil, and transmission. Really is the best product out there.
  12. A custom Blackbear tune is the best you can get. I went with a canned tune via the Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 (Part # 2000) which I bought at a good discount off of Facebook marketplace. The canned tune has worked well for me. I've had it on the truck for over a year, closer to two years probably. 2014 L83 w/CAI & custom exhaust. Whenever I get a new (newer) truck I may go for the blackbear tune.
  13. I recommend you have them turned by a brake shop before replacing. Turning a rotor is the process of smoothing the contact area. That will take care of the vibration.
  14. I gave the dealer a chance to fix mine, then took it to Firestone. Lifetime warranty on the repair, and the parts, including a new condenser and compressor (2nd compressor replacement), and new lines. Same price, around $2200, but have the AC under lifetime warranty now.
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