Amsoil is the best engine oil out there. If you have a leased vehicle or some POS vehicle you could care less about, then just use Walmart oil or whatever is cheapest. I plan on keeping my truck for a long time and Amsoil will help to achieve that. I use Amsoil in my truck bumper to bumper. Transmission, front and rear differentials, transfer case, and brake fluid. There are several other high quality engine oils out there but Amsoil is the best. Then we talk about oil filters, magnetic plugs for the oil pan, and those magnetic wraps for the oil filters. Can take tons of steps to keep the engine clean. My point is, Amsoil is the best engine oil even though it's not the ideal option for all drivers.
81k on a 2014, pads and rotors still have plenty of life. Did a brake fluid flush around 70k and I had to tighten up the parking brake once. It's the ferro-nitric compounds that allow the brakes to last for a long time.
Falken Wildpeak AT3W
But after a quick tune, I'm sure these numbers will go way up. This will be my next truck with that Duramax in it. The Ram Ecodiesel has a tune from PPEI that will add 60hp and 114ft lbs of torque. The 3.0 power stroke has tunes that will add 40+hp and 100+ft lbs of torque.
Depends on the laws of your state. In Alabama, the vehicle will be totaled if the repairs cost more than 75% of the vehicles value. In this case, even if the frame is bent, you should be good. Will just be without your ride for a week or likely two weeks.
Change the transfer case fluid ASAP. Mine was disgusting at 60k, magnetic plug had lots of material on it. Front diff was ok, but was due for a change. Rear diff still looked new at 60k, but I still changed it. Replaced all with Amsoil products.
The spray coating from 3M or Rustoleum should do the trick, but I would double check their application steps before purchasing. I think the Amsoil metal protector and HD metal protector products are meant for bare metal but I'm not 100% sure. If you take it to a Line-X dealer, they will take care of the surface prep and application of their product.
You can use several different products to fix this. If its already rusting, you can use a product like rustoleum automotive undercoating, comes in a 32oz can or can get it in a spray-on form. 3M also has some frame undercoating products. Last option would be to have Line-X applied to the frame if you got the $$$. You can also use something like Amsoil Metal protector or Amsoil HD metal protector which is also a spray-on product. If you can find one that is asphalt-based, that is the strongest you buy. Water-based and paraffin-based will be the entry level products but will get the job done. Anything petroleum-based or rubber-based will be your middle grade products.
Nope, I was planning locacting the leak if the stop leak additive did not work, but so far there hasn't been any noticeable drop in pressure. I assume the leak is in the line which others in here have had issues with. My compressor experienced catastrophic failure around 38k and had it replaced with one from NAPA that had a 2 year warranty. So far all had been good minus the recent leak. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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