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Found 13 results

  1. Just installed s&b cai, and truck stalls out after start, when it doesnt it idles rough and sometimes kicks when starting to drive, it seems alot slower and is throwing me a check engine light please help! What do i do
  2. Hi, I have a 1997 c1500 ext cab with the small block 350 and a 4L60e. I’m replacing my torque converter but I don’t know what the original stall on the converter is. Some people tell me it’s around 1400 and other people tell me it’s 1650. Does anyone know the stock stall number? And the bolt diameter too please.
  3. Hi all, I am new to posting so please bear with me. I was on the beautiful Garden State Parkway... cruising at a bout 75 MPH. The truck got very sluggish, bucked a couple times and stalled. I had just filled my tank about 20 miles back. So thought it may have been a fuel problem. I tried to start it a few times it would start run very rough for a few seconds, then die. So I AAA for a tow. Found out that AAA is not allowed on the parkway, long story short $120.00 later I was towed 2 miles to the nearest exit. There was an advanced auto just off the exit, they scanned the truck, only code shown was a wheel sensor for both front wheels. So I purchased a fuel filter just before closing and replaced it in the parking lot. ?No luck after trying again to start the truck, I would up killing the battery. Got a tow back home. Now I have replaced the battery. Start the truck runs great for about 10 seconds, then the ABS light come on and the truck stalls. When the ABS light comes on it tries to run, but is almost like the timing gets changed. It runs really lopping then dies. If I try to start it right away, starts running rough again. Turn off the key, wait 5-10 minutes start it up runs great for about 10 seconds, then the ABS light comes on and lopes again eventually stalling. Has anyone had this issue or have any ideas on what it could be?
  4. So I have heard that I should look into changing my torque converter or stall. Can someone help me better understand what that is and why I need to change it? Also, maybe some recommendations. They are telling me this because I just got the truck 2 weeks ago but hopefully by next month ill have Intake, Headers, E85 and a street tune. Can't justify a throttle body or intake manifold, change my mind? lol. But I am new to all of this and they are saying maybe a 3200 stall will be good? no clue. TIA!!! Also, can someone point me in the right direction for info on drive shafts and when I need one.
  5. When traffic light turns green, I kicked the throttle pedal, finally, this time, I got the power that a 454 supposed to give me, I almost cried. ======= 1994 Chevy Suburban Silverado K2500 454 L19 TBI 4L80E 153K miles ======= Months ago, I posted several topic (2 or 3) about it stall and knock sound under the floor, while cruising on highway. Well, the "highway" include GGB (Golden Gate Bridge).? 94' 454 stall while driving and knock sound under the cab 94'454 stall again, after change fuel pump Take note that I am actually completely a newbie, new driver (2 years), new vehicle owner, and new to America. So maybe some thing in my topic is wrong, but I don't tend to misleading. Shattered catalyst After the GGB stall, I found its power is weaker than before, and sounds like the exhaust is blocked, and when drive next to a vehicle or wall, I can hear air bleeding sound. Then got MIL code 32, EGR, however I can't find any problem on EGR system. This 454 engine use Linear EGR system, the valve is controlled by ECM directly, no vacuum pipe. I tried to remove air filter, to make it performs better, then find the blocked-exhaust sound become louder. Then one day the stall happened again, I found the knock sound sounds more like opening a soda can. So I visited a muffler stop, turns out the catalyst is shattered, quite big loss. ? Since I don't have enough money for a catalyst, and it may be shattered again, so I asked them to put a steel pipe instead as a temporary manner. After that, the compressed air sound is disappeared, the blocked-exhaust sound is lighter but still there, and the performance is better but still weak. So shattered catalyst blocked exhaust, caused air bleeding sound. And caused extremely high pressure in EGR system, too much exhaust injected into intake manifold when EGR is open, caused ECM think EGR have problem, light MIL and sending code 32. Fired chip in ICM (ignition control module ) The last time it stalls, at a quiet place, I finally figured it out that it feels and sounds like wrong timing, and when press throttle pedal, it back fires, and the harder press the pedal, the louder the sound is, very loud. And when it back fires, I can feel shock on throttle pedal. I told this to my mechanic, he told me to replace the ICM. He said back to old days, he replaced many of it. He suggested me to purchase new one, because it's cheap, even from ACDelco, and this thing usually break down for years parked vehicles, vehicles in junk yard usually parked for years. I opened the metal cover of old ICM, find one of chips is black, oil or something around it is dark brown, the metal cover supposed to be glued to the plastic shell, but the gap near the black chip is open, so it's clear that the chip was exploded. After I changed the module, 3K+ miles so far, including 2 round trip from San Jose to Yosemite, stall never happened, I think the stall problem is officially solved. So the broken ICM caused wrong timing, and stall. "Knock sound" is actually backfire, the exhaust is under floor, so I felt it's knock sound under floor. Back fire caused huge pressure burst in exhaust, then transferred to intake manifold and throttle body via EGR system, caused shock on throttle pedal. Thank god this didn't ignite the gas-air mixture, or my trouble gonna be bigger.? Wrong base timing That's NOT all folks! I found it still very weak, on I680, the climb at east of Fremont, it even can't maintain 60MPH! WTF?? At this time, what I have done on it: Fueling system: New Delphi fuel pump, capable of over 60PSI; New fuel filter, ACDelco; Fuel injector, tested and cleaned; Fuel pressure regulator, changed new spring, 30PSI; Air intake system: New air filter, ACDelco; Ignition system: Distributor cleaned; New ICM, ACdelco; Full assembly of distributor and ICM from junk yard as spare part. New spark plugs, wires and ignition coil, ACDelco. Cylinder pressure: I forgot reading, but within normal range. I pulled out the distributor for cleaning and ICM change reason, but when I put it back, I tried to find the timing mark. However, only engine block have the mark, the distributor don't have mark from factory, only a mark made by the ex-owner's mechanic, and it turns out it's wrong. So I tried to do base timing. I borrowed ignition timing light from my mechanic. But I can't find the "timing connector". At that time, I thought cold start and idle is running at base timing. So you guess it, runs over 20 degree ******. Then one day, I read my shop manual carefully, find out cold idle is NOT base timing, and only when the "timing connector" disconnected, the engine runs at base timing. However I can't find the connector, then after some dig on internet, I finally find it: inside the cab, passenger side, by the side of the blower motor, a single pin connector, tan with single black stripe lead, that's it. It's a bit far from "adjacent to the distributor".? Then I borrowed the timing light again, do the base timing, hit the road again, the result, on I680, maintain 70MPH easily, like I write at beginning of this topic, I almost cried! Just recently days, it even reached over 90MPH when climbing! Yeah it's speeding too much, but you know the traffic flow on highway is a bit crazy after reopen, probably due to people lock in their home for too many days. ======================================================= So That's all folks, I currently focus on renew my truck camper, including solar panel, painting, bathroom convention, jack system rebuilt, then maintenance on the 1996 Ford F250xl, 350 engine, and convert to dually, create a "FAKE F350". ? Then come back, I found the A/C compressor is dead, my mechanic suggested me to get one from junk yard, because most of them from car part shop are rebuild in China, you know what, even I am Chinese, I always avoid "China".?
  6. Golden Gate Bridge, what a perfect place to have your vehicle stalls on. ?? ======================== This is not the 1st time it stalls, see: 94' 454 stall while driving and knock sound under the cab ======================== Before this fault down, I have changed the fuel pump (thanks to <riverbanks>), the original one is weak, I can easily block the fuel pipe with thumb, I think it is almost fail. Changed a new one, very strong, I can't block the fuel pipe with thumb. ======================== Model= 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado Engine= 454 TBI Transmission= AT Fault down des. : Location= Veterans Blvd. tunnel NB, Golden Gate Bridge(GGB) NB, Alexander Ave. NB, Calif.; Transfer case pos.=2H Coolant temp.= around 210(heated up), normal operation temp., enough; Engine Oil= normal pressure, enough, just changed (incl. filter); Trans. oil= enough, just changed(incl. filter); Fuel= enough, #87 from Chevron or Shell, I only fuel my vehicles in these 2 brand, I've burnout old fuel, now is new fuel in tank; Symptom= engine stall, hear knock sound from under the cab. Veterans Blvd. tunnel: attempt to shift to N then crank, crank no start, stop on drive way (no emergency stop area) shift to P, crank, start, shift to D(O/D Off), continue the road. GGB: multiple time of stall, after some times of stall, found the engine sounds like intake or exhaust jammed, and very weak power. Alexander Ave.: stall when down hill with O/D off, but back normal later. Inspection at break down site: Air cleaner is okay, filter is new, fuel pump relay contact is okay. Inspection at home : OBD scanner get DTC 54 and 32. ===== Current status=sounds like intake or exhaust jammed, and power is weak; when drive next to a wall or something, can hear the sound like bleed pressure of a tire, this sound can't be heard when the vehicle is not moving. I gonna check ignition system, incl. distributor, coil, spark plugs and wires, to check if there are any bad contact, but I suspect bad contact can't cause this problem. I am afraid one more thing have broken while on GGB .??
  7. Model= 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado Engine= 454 TBI Transmission= AT Fault down des. : Location= Albany, Berkeley, Calif., I80E; Trans. pos.= D (O/D Off); Transfer case pos.=2H Last operation= OD --> D, fully release throttle pedal; Speed= around 40 mph; Coolant temp.= around 210(heated up), normal operation temp., enough; Engine Oil= normal pressure, enough, just changed (incl. filter); Trans. oil= enough, just changed(incl. filter); Fuel= enough, #87 from Chevron or Shell, I only fuel my vehicles in these 2 brand, I've burnout old fuel, now is new fuel in tank; Symptom= engine stall, hear knock sound from under the cab. Attempt 1: shift to N then crank, crank no start, pull over, shift to P. Attempt 2: crank, start, shift to D(O/D Off), accelerate, around 40mph, stall and knock sound again, pull over, shift to P. Attempt 3: crank, start, shift to OD, accelerate with little throttle, around 40mph, stall with knock sound again, pull over, shift to P. Inspection at break down site: crank, start, noticed check engine light is on, press throttle pedal to 2000 then 3000 rpm, no knock sound, inspected engine driving belt area, belt and all pulleys are okay. Inspection at home (Towed): OBD scanner get DTC 54. Inspected drive shaft for both front axle and rear axle, no loss. Repair attempt= Change: fuel pump relay (as DTC 54), spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coil (noticed serous oxidation on the terminal to distributor), all from AC Delco, OE or above product line, purchased via O'reilly or Autozone store. Clean: distributor, all terminals (outer for ignition wires and inner for roter), rotor. Current status=normal. Other info. maybe useful=I found a maintenance label on wind screen, its next maintenance supposed to be on 05/22/2014 at mileage 153,000. But now is early 2020, 151,000, so most time it was just sit there. Question= Is this only the fuel pump relay? What is the knock sound? Is there any thing I should inspect or replace a new one?
  8. 19 Silverado TrailBoss V6: Several times now the truck stalled out when in park and idling. I try to restart and it turns over but won't start, take the key out and try again a couple minutes later and it works but the check engine light is on. Prior to this starting, last week while driving 60mph on highway the truck shuddered/shook a few times and the check engine light came on. OBD reads out P16AF & P16A7 as the error codes. Dealership said they ordered a new part...anyone having issues like this? Also, still no fix on the backup camera glitching out. Someone is gonna get hurt and GM has been made aware and I filed it with NHTSA. No fix yet...
  9. I will be searching the forums here shortly, but I am semi-stranded on a 1,750 mile road trip with 5 kids under 10, over 500 miles from both my origin and destination. I have a 2001 Suburban I bought with 260,000 miles on it. I'm now pushing 270,000 I made it to a hotel nearby a Chevrolet Dealer, but they don't open for service until Monday. I was cruising at freeway speeds and suddenly the truck engine died and began coasting to a stop. I put the truck in neutral, restarted it, and it fired up and popped back into drive. About 150-200 miles it started happening more frequently. When the engine loses power, the tachometer shows the engine speed dying out, so it is not a total loss of signal from whatever provides the signal to the tachometer. After dying out, the engine will fire back up and idle with minimal extra cranking. The engine starts up and idles well at these times, and I have had to idle it with the family in it and it runs the AC no problem at idle. I have not had the condition pop up at idle. Sometimes, the engine will recover itself and resume accellerating as we are coasting if I feather the pedal. I have an AutoEnginuity scanner and a decent array of tools that I travel with. MIL is not on. I have some history codes for: P0461: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (I believe this code was never cleared from before I replaced the sending unit previously) P1172: Fuel Transfer pump Flow Insufficient - This one kind of makes me wonder. On the trip, due to having the kids in the car, I have refueled at various levels with the engine running for A/C. Alldata says this code will not set if P0461 is present. P1431: Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit performance. The only way I could see the secondary fuel pump effecting drivability, aside form usable fuel, is if the secondary pump failure has caused it to become an excessive current draw. When I bought the truck, the fuel gage was not working, which I traced back to the primary sending unit in the tank. At around 265K miles. I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit assembly at this time with a new AC Delco OEM replacement part. Since that replacement, I have made the same 3,500 round trip road trip without issue about 1 month ago. One difference this time is that the ambient temperature this time is considerably warmer outside, however the coolant and trans temp gages have been riding right at where they normally do. Prior to that last trip as well, I put AC Delco Irridium spark plugs gapped at .045", and a 180F thermostat in the truck. The only other issue that I had was that at one point the EGR became stuck open by a small piece of stray carbon that would cause the truck to not idle. When the stalling symptoms first surfaced on this trip, I put a new AC Delco fuel filter in the truck and replaced the primary fuel pump relay just to rule them out, I would find it odd that a fuel pump would fail at that juncture at 5K miles old, however I am planning to get down to AutoZone and purchase a fuel pressure gage just to check that out during the moments when the problems are being experienced. The old fuel filter didn't seem restricted with a blow-through test. I do know this truck has both a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor, and I have seen a lot of similar symptoms that relate to the failure of one or both of these. I think that's where I'm looking next if the fuel pressure checks out. Am I correct in assuming that the engine would throw a DTC if an ignition coil or coil group was intermittently failing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks! Steve 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L 4x4, 270K Miles
  10. Hello there, I am having issues with my truck. It is a 2003 silverado 2500HD 4x4 LT with a 6.0L V8 gas engine and 180,000 miles. Aftermarket components on the truck are a K&N cold air intake, Hypertech max energy power programmer, a 2.5" leveling kit, and 33" tires. It started with the truck randomly stalling when switching to reverse gear when parking, and started back up no problem. This has occurred atleast 4 times and does not happen every time. Another issue that is happening is that when at stops and starting to gain speed, at around 5-10 mph, the truck stutters and has a hard time gaining torque and shifting. I have zero issues at medium to high speeds and it shifts fine but it seems to not like going between gears 1-2 it has issues. I have no lights on the dash and the temperatures are at normal ranges. I have had people suggest that it could be a fuel pump problem and also heard it could be the torque converter. Has anyone had similar issues or know what they would suggest might be the problem or need more information from me please respond.
  11. I had looked at the following issue last year and thought that I had solved it, but it is recrruing again and I am at a loss. The RPMs drop, the "Park Assist Off" display comes on, and the doors lock. When moving, the truck hitches a bit then resumes as normal. If at a stop, the truck stalls. About every fifth occurrence, both the electronic and physical gas gauges drop to zero. The values increase over 10-15 minutes time if there is no reoccurrence, but immediately go back to accurate if there is a reoccurrence. Last year, I replaced the 75amp mega (looked OK) and cleaned and reset the ground wire behind the driver's side tire. I have traced all of the visible wiring and haven't been able to locate any issues. All of the fuses appear intact. I only put about 2,000 miles per year on the truck, and yesterday was the first occurrence since last fall. It was also the first warm day I have driven it in since then. The air conditioner was not on. Correlation doesn't equal causation and I have a very small sample size, but I just want to throw the temperature issue out there as additional information. I have not been able to catch anything with my OBD reader and two dealerships have found nothing. Any clues? Thanks in advance, SM
  12. Howdy, I own a 2010 Silverado that is doing some weird stuff. First off, let me tell you the mods that are done: Yank 2800 Stall, TSP long tubes, Borla Cat-Back system, K&N cold air intake, some random after market spark plug wires that came off a 2011 Camaro SS, and it has a custom tune done with HP tuners. This is a 5.3 LC9 with a 6l80 transmission (with stock clutches besides the stall). Now let me tell you the issue. If I am cruising at low speeds and mash into the gas it will sometimes wig out. It shoots the rpm's to 6k and unlocks and locks the doors (almost like it's trying to throw it in park). This doesn't happen all the time, only at low speeds and if I haven't touched the gas in awhile. I'm almost ready to pull the converter off and throw the stock one back on, but part of me thinks it might be an electrical issue. I had the transmission pulled out and the stall rebuilt back in December and my transmission guy said it's one of cleanest 6l80's he has ever seen, so I'm hoping its not my clutches. Let me know if y'all know anything about this type of problem, but everyone I've talked to so far has no clue. This sucks because I was planning on doing a TSP cam and DOD delete this summer, but that will have to wait! -David
  13. Has any one had an issue with their truck stalling an not firing back up? Three weeks ago I took delivery of a 2014 1500 Sierra Denali with the 5.3 and this happened to me yesterday. I had to get it towed to a dealership service center where it still sits waiting for Monday morning when the techs get back in. I was leaving work going about 15mph with a full tank of gas and the engine just shut itself off and would not fire back up. It cranks, but is not getting signal or something to turn the fuel pumps on as they don't chime in with their signature buzz when the key is turned. I tried several different things to try and get the system to restart to maybe get me going to limp home, but none of them worked. Pumped the gas pedal 5-10 times with the key on, disconnected the battery for a short period of time, checked the fuses, tried knocking in a hard manner on the gas tank, and opened and closed the fuel cap. On top of it all, the thing only has 1330 miles on it.... Any words of wisdom for what I should expect the dealership to try and sell me on?
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