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Showing results for tags 'idle'.
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1500 6.2L not running right
Logroller posted a topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
The ‘17 Sierra 1500 6.2L idle is a little weak and its knocking or ticking some. This is the first time I changed the oil, other times by dealer. Oil pressure looks normal. I put in the required 8qts 0w/20 dexos 1 Gen 2, dipstick is fine, put on the a new oul filter (same as others), and all Acdelco as it has been. Do these motors take a little bit to run correctly after an engine oil change? Never had a motor do this. -
I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem. -
Just installed s&b cai, and truck stalls out after start, when it doesnt it idles rough and sometimes kicks when starting to drive, it seems alot slower and is throwing me a check engine light please help! What do i do -
2020 GMC 2500 gas engine. Starts good first of the day and idles smooth in park. Idle becomes rough when put in reverse to back out of garage. Smooth idle in gear after 2-3 blocks. I live in the south but it does it hot or cold weather. I've seen the service bulletin for cold weather starts and added the suggested additional ground to throttle body but no change. Truck has only had Chevron fuel. Has done this since new. Anyone else have this issue? E
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2020 GMC 2500 gas engine. Starts good first of the day and idles smooth in park. Idle becomes rough when put in reverse to back out of garage. Smooth idle in gear after 2-3 blocks. I live in the south but it does it hot or cold weather. I've seen the service bulletin for cold weather starts and added the suggested additional ground to throttle body but no change. Truck has only had Chevron fuel. Has done this since new. Anyone else have this issue? E
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I have a 2005, 4.3l, 2x4, extended cab Silverado. I’ve been tearing my hair out trying to figure out this issue. It seems that after the truck has warmed up for the most part it will sputter like it wants to stall out when accelerating after sitting idle at a stoplight until I get to about 40mph or so then it just seems to regain all power and smoothness to driving again like nothing was wrong. Any ideas?
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I have a stumble only at idle or when first accelerating from a stop, the engine rpm will stay around 500 then dip for a second to maybe 300-400 it isn't consistent and sometimes feels worse than others, you can feel a slight stumble when you first leave a stop but after that it's fine, smooth and no lack of power. The MAF and throttle body have both been cleaned properly but neither made any difference. The engine has about 205k on it, the plugs have about 80k on them now. I'm not sure where to look next ? -
Hello all, This is my first post on this forum. Last year I bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext cab LT with a 5.3l V8 that is Flexfuel capable. Well, I never intended to use flex fuel, but last week, I did so on the spur of the moment. We drove about 3/4 of the tank gone. Then as I was pulling up to the gas station to refill before going out of town for work, my truck's idle began dropping and feeling like it is about to stall out at idle. This happens whether park is engaged or not. I filled up, put some seafoam in my tank and drove about 1.5 hours to work. It continued to idle like this all throughout the trip and even later when I went out and sat at idle while on my break. What could be the problem? I can't imagine that an engine that is meant for flex fuel could get that messed up by it. A side note: we had the transmission rebuilt in January, just in case that makes a different. It has only been a few weeks since last oil change. All fluids were checked and filled up at that time and have been checked a couple of times since.
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Hello I am having an issue keeping my truck idling on its own. Here is the history on the truck. 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L automatic with manual 4x4. Bought from auction as a flood vehicle. Water was in the engine in the oil and in the cylinders. Got that all out and new plugs, wires, new fuel, oil and filter. The truck runs now but it will not idle on its own. If you give it just a slight amount of throttle it will run. If you let off the gas it dies. I checked the throttle body and cleaned it. Clean air filter. The fuel pump primes 50psi but I haven't checked it while running. Any thoughts as to why it wont idle on its own? It will rev all the way to redline and you can drive it around a little if you two foot it. The engine sounds healthy but wont stay running. -
2000 6.0L, 5 spd, 4x4, ex-cab, swb. Notice: 5 speed, manual. Get this truck over (about) 1700 rpm's & it'll maintain speed (foot off the gas) till it hits a big enough hill. It'll gain speed/acceleration down the hills. It's kinda like the cruise control is on. The big problem is when out of gear & rolling, motor will rev way up, eventually bump itself down, then wind-up again. BIG PROBLEM- Can't just take it out of gear & coast down, unless you wanna hear that motor wind out. Usually a buzz sound, similar to a street light buzzing happens around the same time, not sure if related. Already replaced a throttle control. Have been told wiring problems are common for 2000? Any ideas ? Thanks.
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2005 silverado reg cab short bed 2wd 4.3 v6 5 speed manual 63,000 miles Driving on the highway I downshifted while braking for a ramp and all the sudden my engine idle got stuck between 3800 and 4300 rpms. Limped home with the truck under what seemed like constant 20 percent throttle while in gear by itself. take it out of gear and it revs up to 4000 again, incredibly hard to put in gear and kinda dangerous to drive. No cel and nothing stored in my code reader, wondering where to start on fixing this? Pulled on throttle cable and seems free, spring is good and throttle moves. Can I replace a solenoid? IAC? Brake booster blow a vacuum line? Thoughts on this would be appreciated.
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I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
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2015 Silverado Regular cab with 4.3 V6. Has just under 14,000 miles. The other day after work I drove to the store and was gone for about 15 min. I kept my phone plugged into the charger. Came out, started the truck and it acted like it was gasping for fuel. Almost like starting up an old lawn mower. It then started surging a few times until I hit the gas and gave it some real juice. Then it became normal. This has only happened one time but it scared me. The only thing different I've been doing lately is running E85 fuel. On my 3rd tank of E85. Temperature has been in the high 50s to mid 60s. So not sure. Any input? Was just inspected and had synthetic oil change two weeks ago. -
Hey guys, It been few years now maintaining it... I have 2005 sierra 1500 z71 5.3L extended cab... I gotten it at 80,000 and now it at 182k, i have since replaced the alternator, water pump, coolant hose, flush the tranmission fluids, and now i noticed now it be getting hot while im idling and the oil pressure gauge will be low but when i am driving the oil pressure gauge goes back to middle and the coolant temp will go back to the middle instead being hot... it happen when im going through a stop like a traffic jam... it wouldnt last 5min without getting low oil pressure(although no alarm light) and high engine coolant temp (coolant warning light came on) reaching... i been racking my brain trying to figure it out what could it be... it same thing all over again, driving normal then come to a stop, a long stop then my oil pressure will dip low and then engine coolant will dip pass the 210 mark and get hot til if i am idle long enough it will flash coolant light on... i open the hood check the engine, hoses, coolant level is good, fan blowing, but still getting hot with no leaks or steams... i really love my truck i really need to resolve this asap... pls help??? G30 -
I have a 95 1500 that I have no check engine light, but the truck will stutter when idling or first accelerating from stop when it is maybe 50F outside or warmer. If it is cold outside, the truck idles fine and accelerates without any issues. I've checked and changed plugs, which looked fine with no issues or fowling. -
I purchased a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with 155,000 miles on it. I have some questions I'm hoping you can answer. Shifting from neutral to drive when the engine is cold results in a jerk forward. I also noticed that when I shift into neutral, the RPM's jump up to around 1500. It doesn't do this when the engine is warm. Any thoughts as to what this could be? I just changed the transmission fluid and also had a mechanic look at the U-joints, he said those are fine. The shop that did the transmission fluid change, just did the standard pan drop, drain fluid, put a new filter in, etc. Will this be enough or should I have a shop do a complete change? I do plan to tow a 6500# camper with the truck if it matters. I had the brake fluid and power steering fluid changed at the same time as the transmission fluid. Should I have the coolant, differentials (front and rear) and transfer case changed as well? What else should I have done to it for service? Can I take it to my regular mechanic or should I take it to a GMC dealer?
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Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2009 Silverado LS 4.8 V8 149,000kms (92,500 mi). This truck just started to idle a little rough or (rumble) while sitting at red light. it will do this in Drive but not neutral or park. If i rev it up its smooth until around 1400rpm then can hear and feel slight rumble. Can also hear rumble as i turn key off just as it quits. NO codes on truck checked with hand held scanner. Everyone online kept pointing me to EVAP issues. Ran emissions readiness test everything was clear except EVAP so i put in GM Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid #12597567. All items were clear! great right? not so fast, I cleared my scanner only to find out I shouldn't have because I now am having to run a bunch of "drive cycles" to reset everything. I have done this multiple times everything cleared up except EVAP which it did before and the truck still rumbles. Any ideas? is it EVAP or something different altogether? Thanks Stacy Edmonton,Alberta
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Hello all. I've noticed this whistling sound at idle on my truck. I am unsure how long it has been making it. In the video, I start it up, give it a couple very light Revs to see if there is any difference in sound. Then, I cycle to R, N, D, N, R, P. The audio turned out OK, you can hear the whistling sound the best at 25seconds and thru the end.. I don't know if it makes the sound as I am driving down the road. EDIT: You can't really hear the sound when looking at the engine bay. It is most audible when under the truck. Any thoughts on this? I am probably going to swing by the dealer after work tomorrow and have them take a listen. I appreciate your responses. Thanks!! -
I am at my wits end. I own a 1997 C1500 Silverado extended cab and I have just rolled past 210k miles. I wish to keep the truck since I cannot find the money to buy a new one so I have been repairing and replacing as necessary, which brings me to my issue. I have owned the truck for 3 years and bought it at 160k miles and at the time it had some issues with it in the engine as it didn't idle just right and it choked up on hard acceleration so I replaced all the usual and got my power back but the truck always had a bit of a stumble that never went away. I replaced nearly every part that deals with ignition and timing and got to the point this January that I had enough money to pay someone to rebuild an engine for me and pulled the original engine and dropped in the new one (rebuilt). now the fun part, the stumble issue showed up in the new engine as well. I have paid two different shops to diagnose and bother cannot find the issue in why it is misfire. The kicker, is all the misfires occur in just the front of the engine in cylinder 3 (the worst) and 2 and 4. The other cylinders do not misfire and the miss is visible at idle and can be felt at any throttle while driving. The parts from the old engine were transferred to the new engine normally I would have assumed the issue was in the spider injector but it passed leak down test flawlessly. One more issue is it would seem that the computer is trying to cut fuel and the truck is running slightly lean. I am currently considering that even though the EGR test passes it may be possible that there is something wrong with it opening too far and messing with the front cylinders. Any assistance anyone who has an idea would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
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Hello everyone! I think this is a pretty long standing question of mine. My family has owned several GMC Suburbans from the 1996-1999 model year range, and all but one has had this issue. I can only describe it as sort of a high pitched whine that is extremely audible when idling. Every Suburban I've seen on the road makes this noise. My current '96 Suburban just started making this noise recently, so I want to figure out what's causing it. It has a 454 in it that was put in around 2005. Any ideas are very much appreciated! Thanks. -
Just wanted to say I cleaned my throttle today and I saw an immediate difference in the truck. everyone with a rough idle or a vibration at 900-1000 rpm should look into this. both were problems I had and after cleaning the throttle and intake my idle is so smooth I have to stare at the needle to see any movement. also if you look back at my posts I had a vibration at 1000 rpm or so and so far that seems gone as well, If there is any change I will update this post for future reference to anyone that reads this. by the way the truck is a 2009 Silverado 5.3 ext cab z71 with afm. hope this helps anyone else with those problems
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hello everyone I have a 97 GMC Sierra with a 305 and electronic shift trans it has a lot of issues that I'm trying to sort out first of all on cold start it idles super low (200- 400 rpms) for a few seconds and then picks up and shudders and shakes for a minuet then goes to normal idle once it warms up it stars to drop to low rpms (any where between 100 to 400) and dies out when I rev it it revs super slow and hesitates when I go to drive it it falls on its face on take off it kinda cuts out at first but slowly and I mean slowly picks up speed all the while it back fires and slightly lunges now once I get moving the trans doesnt want to shift until I let off the gas no matter the throttle position and the speedometer jumps around like crazy and never shows my correct speed the brake and ABS light are on sometimes they go off but normally on look at the videos to see how bad it is any help would be great so far I have replaced the plugs and wires cleaned the cap replaced the button and the TPS cleaned the MAF sensor and cleaned the trans speed sensor videos: -
After I parked the truck last week the fan stayed on quite a bit longer than normal after the truck was off, I didn't think a whole lot of it at the time, but a couple days ago I got a "over temperature idle engine" warning on the DIC and watched the temperature go back and forth from dead center to max a couple times. Looked at the reservoir and there was no coolant visible at all. Ran to the store in our other vehicle and bought 2 gallons of coolant. It took the full first jug and a bit from the second to bring it up to the full cold mark. I couldn't see anywhere it would be leaking from - and I've had no pool on the driveway - but there was a definite coolant smell in the engine bay. The only thing I noticed was the visible corner of the rad that you can see (driver side) there was white residue along the top edge, not 100% sure if this is coolant or not but I suspect it may be. Have an appointment for the Onstar module replacement (2G to 4G) next week so will ask them to look into it then, until then I'll keep checking and topping it off.
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I have a 2014 Silverado 6.2. Max Trailer package. I recently took it in for scheduled recall. It has about 10,500 miles. I could tell they did something with the TC, grade braking and also the adjustable pedal settings. My truck started to act strange with idle fluttering and it feels like the TC is jumping in and out, like it's trying to decide whether to lock or unlock. It does this at speeds below 50 MPH. I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how they were able to fix it? I talked to another owner that had this issue and he took it in multiple times to have the dealer find nothing... He finally tuned it; modifying the TC adapt settings. I am very hesitant to void my warranty considering the issues with new new style. -
First post here on this Forum. Seems to have a lot of good info... so anywanys, here is my history and my problem: bought a '14 Z71 4x4 on dec30 2013 5.3l cab+ Used onstar the day the recall hit the news, they said I do not have a recall on my particular truck 2 days later I got my recall email saying to bring it in I have been in the auto industry for nearly 10 years in the R&D field, working with the big 3 and now have been reloctaed to Mid Ohio to do some aerodynamic/rolling resistance and also heat resistance/thermal stuff with honda... I have been around new technology and have seen alot of stuff. My Z71 started to sound a little loud to me coming from the wheel well at idle. this was really noticible if I was at a drive thorugh or in a traffic jam along a curb or wall. Nothing to loud, just sounded a little off to me. I know direct injection can be really loud, and I can hear that, but is almost sounded like exhaust noise... Didnt notice this when I test drove the vehicle. Took my truck in Wednesday the 22nd for the recall. they reflashed the ECU and sent me on my way. they said the did not hear anything out of the norm coming from the exhaust. I thought the calibration change may have helped. I have noticed the past few days driving to and from work that I am now getting a slight buzz/vibration feeling in my steering wheel. I thought I was crazy, but i have noticed it today again. the truck almost sounds a little deeper exhaust tone now too. this vibtration is most felt at idle. i know it wasnt there before the calibration change, because I commented on how smooth the trucck ran and how disconnected the driver feels from the road. (you tend to get no feeback with electric power steering on what your wheels are doing, the steering wheel just turns smooth and free). Has anyone esle noticed a exhaust note change and a vibration in the steering wheel after the calibration? Does anyeone know what exactly the new calibration changed? the little bit of diggin I did into the recall came up with that Chevy had the trucks running on 2 cyl at idle to conserve fuel. something was wrong in the cal that would only fire 2 but fuel more cyls than that. anyone who knows about cars and thermal properties know that when an excessive amount of fuel ran through a engine and put onto a cat at operating temps cause problems and cat temps to spike... causing underbody to melt/fire. not sure if this is true, but any input would be nice. maybe I am paranoid since this is my first NEW vehicle. but the vibration makes the truck feel like a old vehicle...
