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Short version: 2018 silverado 2500 6.0 intermittently misfiring on bank 1. Holes 1/3/5/7. Changed 02 sensors, plugs. coils, catalytic converters, spark plugs. Once the truck is above 1300rpm or so, it doesn't misfire at all. Cannot seem to find any relation between whether ambient temperature is hot or cold or when engine temperature is hot or cold. Long version: Hey Y'all, I bought a used 2018 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0 L96 "G" about a month ago. Used from a sales lot. 160km (100,000 miles.) After driving about 200 highway miles or so, I was at a red light, and it was idling (burbling and chugging) a little weird. When I went to leave the red light, the engine was a bit hesitant, but once above 1200rpm or so, it drove fine. Over the next few days, It did the same thing intermittently and ended up throwing some codes: P0420: Catalyst system low efficiency P0137 H02S Circuit Low voltage sensor 2 P2097 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 1 P2099 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 2 P0300 random/multiple misfire. However, once rolling, it performs fine with no drama. The dealer gave me a 2 year unlimited mileage powertrain warranty through a 3rd party company. The warranty company does not pay for diagnostic work, just part changing and part cost. In order to get this warranty, I agreed to do oil change/spark plugs/air filter. For peace of mind, I ordered new 02 sensors (2 up 2 down) 8 new plugs (stock replacements) ignition coils and ignition wires. Once the parts came in, I got underneath and changed the 02 sensors. It looks like they had been changed at some point because they were aftermarket sensors. I started the truck up and cleared the codes. It ran fine for 10 minutes. I had my fiancée come out to back the truck out of the garage (I was filthy) and as soon as it went in reverse, it started idling like dog sh** and stalled out. I started it up again and we coerced it out of the garage. At this point I was tired and cranky (up for 24 hours with 12 hours of work in there.) I was in no mood to carry on with working on it. I took it to a shop and we plugged the Gucci Snap on scanner into the truck. It showed it was misfiring on 1/3/5/7. All bank 1. Bank 2 was fine. The mechanic/shop owner and I decided to have the coils/plugs/wires changed and see what happens. He called me later that evening and said the truck was running like a top. He had his datalogger on and it hadn't recorded a single misfire. I went to the shop and saw the truck had been running for about 40 minutes without recording a misfire. Drove it 10 minutes to a friend's house and had dinner. It worked fine. No idle or low RPM acceleration issues. When I left his house, I let the truck run for a minute and it started repeating it's prior behaviors. Did some studying at youtube university. Added a 2nd ground off of the coil harness to ensure it was grounding properly. No change. Cleaned MAF and throttle body, no change. Called some friends that are smarter than me. We concluded it may be the catalytic converter. While the truck wasn't short on any power.. It was a company truck (seemingly well maintained) that likely idled a lot. There are nearly 7000 hours on the truck. Not sure if that's high hours for the mileage. Took it to an exhaust shop and asked them to determine if the cat was pooched. They called me back and said it was. I did not ask how they determined this. Ordered a new set of Magnaflow cats (and a muffler for fun sounds.) Had them installed yesterday. Picked them up from the shop and the truck ran great. Today, it started doing the Harlem shake again. I'm guessing after this... It's got to be a wiring issue? Chafing somewhere? What makes me have a hard time believing it's electrical is that it is strictly RPM related. Idle to about 1300/1400 rpm. And intermittent. Once I'm cruising it's fine. If I am at a lower speed and the trans is in a gear where the RPM is low... it will (very seldom) struggle a little to build RPM. I've been using the gear selector a lot to keep the RPM's above 1400. I cannot seem to find a correlation between when the engine is hot/cold etc. If any of you have some insight, it would be greatly appreciated. This weekend a friend and I are going to hookup datalogger to check fuel trims, and also watch for misfires while wiggling harnesses and such. Have a great day! I'm about to lose my mind. This has been a slow process
Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help.
So I was all settled on installing the Fabtech 6” basic lift then the 4wheelparts guy tells me Pro Comp is running a $500 rebate on the 6” coilover kit which is usually $2400, now $1900. The Fabtech kit w/ their stealth shocks and front spacers was $1600 something. Should I spring for the upgraded coils? Vast ride improvement? 85% on pavement driving occasional off road for hunting/fishing thanks
Hows it going, any help and advice is VERY much appreciated. 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec 1500 4wd. I have been trying to figure this truck out for months, shakes at all rpms although certain rpms are worse than others(the missfire) I have replaced intake manifold gaskets, double and triple checked vaccum system for leaks doing smoke tests (no vaccum leaks), replaced pcv valve, thoroughly cleaned injectors, confirmed everything fuel wise is working properly, new fuel filter. Still shaking badly. The other day I had a great idea, I waited until it got dark outside and decided to run the engine and look under the hood. Sure enough, I noticed sparking (shorting out) happening on pretty much all of the coils. The sparking is COMPLETELY random and there is never a consistent spark, for example one moment coils for cyl# 2,5,1,7 will be sparking, the next moment they wont and others will, and sometimes they look like they arent sparking at all, Also may mention that the drivers side of the motor seems to be sparking more often but it does indeed happen on both sides. It seems to spark a little more frequently when you spike the throttle. All i have replaced in the ignition system is the spark plugs, and made no difference at all. All of the coils are producing a spark at the spark plug. I have checked the common grounds to each ignition coil (plug on the top of the coil) and they all were grounded. Truck has 240k miles. If someone could please help me I would really appreciate it I feel like im SO close to fixing this thing and is my only car right now and need to figure it out. Thanks