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Found 23 results
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I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?
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Part: GM 13525431, Receptacle Assembly, Multi Media *Jet Black Just posting a thread on here if someone who has a 2019 Silverado with the one USB type B port, you can easily upgrade to a module that has a USB-C, USB-B, and an SD card port very quickly and easily in under 5 minutes. I bought mine from eBay and it ran me $27.19 plus shipping. I bought a trim removal kit on Amazon and used the one circled to pry it from the bottom and when the bottom popped out a bit, I pried it from the left side and it just popped out very quickly. After that, just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. FYI, I also bought the module that just has just the USB-C and USB-B ports (without the SD card port) and I don't believe that one would work since it needs an extra cable to be plugged into and I was searching around and didn't find one -- you probably need a different harness for that one. What I've noticed so far is that Apple CarPlay will pickup my iPhone a bit faster, skip through the songs a bit faster, and it charges my phone a bit faster, as well. I haven't tried the SD card functionality yet but I can hope that it may be a necessary requirement for people that have IOR radios to upgrade to the IOS ones with navigation.
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I got a 2017 Silverado 2lt with remote start and recently a peer of mine got his truck stolen. I want to add something to my truck to prevent that but I can’t really afford the viper alarm system at the moment so i want to install a kill switch in the ignition. If someone could share the wiring diagram that would be awesome because I can’t seem to find it and I was curious if there was a way to install the kill switch without losing my remote start.
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I am currently sitting in front of boost autos High beam to spot mirror mod for the 2019+ HD trucks. This kit taps into the BCM using a relay and a diode to achieve the spot lights on while in drive. I'll attach a install link that shows the wire taps in the BCM. Although this kit sounds nice, I don't want my Task lights (spot lights) on whenever my high beams are on, but rather have the option to use the stock dash button to achieve my desired lighting while in drive. From what I've broke down I believe this to be a ground activated relay and could be done differently then tapping into the high beams. The kits relay is wired as follows: 30- red to fuse with a jumper to 30, 86-black, 85- red jumper from 30, 87- dual outputs with diode. Could anyone simplify this for me to where I can either just always have use of my mirror lights in drive or park, or what I need to wire/jump etc to achieve this? I feel like I'm over thinking this and there should be a simple answer that tricks the truck's mirror lights to believe they are still in park. Maybe a ground wire just tapped in or something??? -
Does anyone know of a company that makes brackets to fit a 2014-2018 Silverado 1500 to convert tow hooks to shackles (D rings). I see multiple sites that make them for 07-13 and 2019+ but can’t seem to find any for a 14-18. I don’t know why no site is listing them for these trucks and wonder if the brackets from the 2019+ or 07-13 would work on a 2017? Does anyone have any Insight or know of a company that does make them? Thanks
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I am trying to find a 2 piece drive shaft for my ‘15 Sierra Double Cab. Where can I find one?
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Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help. -
See a lot of questions asked about this and not a lot of set info on the upgrade. Hope this helps even anyone trying to set it up. **READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WATCH ALL VIDEOS PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING PURCHASING OR INSTALLATION** Apple CarPlay / Android Auto functionality is not supported in any 2014-2015 (Many 2016) Silverado/Sierra’s. This is due to neither application being available from Google or Apple when these vehicles being built, therefore not an available option during these model years. The following instructions are designed to simplify the process as much as possible. Three things are required for this upgrade (ONE) Radio Module, (ONE) HMI Module, and (ONE) USB Hub 2016+. Search around for the modules, they are available for purchase from many different locations. EBay, totaled vehicles, junkyards, or other various websites to find them. AGAIN, if the part numbers are not listed below DO NOT purchase them. It is highly encouraged to not try and cut corners with purchasing part numbers of modules not listed as they cannot be flashed to work properly. **DISCONNECT THE BATTERY PRIOR TO INSTALLING FRESHLY UPDATED MODULES** TOOLS REQUIRED: Trim Removal tool 10 mm Socket 7 mm Socket PARTS REQUIRED USB HUB P/N 13519224 (BLACK) P/N 13509943 (WHITE) HMI Module USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84006103 84048396 84096817 84156701 81431943 84296482 USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84096815 84156699 84131941 84296480 84004948 84048398 84131941 84296480 RADIO MODULE USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 84062073 84293226 13506371 23402903 USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N. 13506387 23402909 84062056 84293243 Once acquiring the parts you can now send them to be flashed. These modules will be flashed to your VIN and will then be plug and play. Copy the link and follow the prompts. http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=98&category_id=44&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54 If you have followed all the directions up and to this point, select yes for hardware match. You can chose if you would like the maps updated on your NAV if you so choose. You will be emailed your order number from WAMS, this is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. You will be required to ship your parts either FedEx or UPS, they will not accept packages from USPS. You will need to write your order number on the box to ensure your order is properly handled. Turn around is approximately one week from shipment to return. ONLY ship your (ONE) Radio Module and (ONE) HMI Module. Maintain your USB Hub. Once you have received your parts from WAMS you can begin installation. Disconnect your battery prior to installation. To install the radio module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2MYuuyqLrs. For the purpose of this install start the video at 1:00. Stop the video at 2:04, the radio module is visible with a green connector on the far left. Simply begin disconnecting all of the connectors plugged into the module, once all are removed you can slide the module out of the dash. It is retained only by the tension of the cables plugged into it. Replace with your new module, you can now continue the video and finish putting the dash back together. Stop the video at 4:10. To install the HMI Module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFe2gwlOsD4. Stop the video at 2:00. The module being described behind the crossbar is what you are replacing. Remove all connectors, the module is retained with a plastic clip on top. Installing the module along with the glove box, is self explanatory. Take note of the plastic tabs on the sides of the USB Hub you are preparing to install. Those tabs can be depressed with a dental pick and gradually removed out of place. Once removed, disconnect the harness and reconnect. Installation is now complete. You can now reconnect your battery and start your vehicle. Initial start up might take a few seconds to initialize, and temperature defaulting to 32 degrees is normal. Android Auto and Apple CarPlay require hardwire connection, so to test functionality it needs to be connected to the newly installed USB hub. MVI Inc (https://www.gm-navigation.com/) offers kits and other customization options if the above is not something you feel comfortable acquiring on your own. Hope this helps, should be pretty cut and dry. There might be other methods, but this was the cheapest I discovered. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask. -
I currently have the little 4” screen in my truck and was wondering if anyone has tried to go get an 8” screen and HMI out of a and junkyard truck and plug it up. Would that work? I dont feel like paying $1500 for something to still be stock -
Hey Guys, I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 and have been looking for an aggressive and mean looking aftermarket grille but can't really seem to find anything anywhere. I have searched the forum aswell but did not find anything. Do you guys have any recommendation for particular brands or any websites? As well are there any recommendations for other mods? My truck is fairly stock and just been looking to change it up a bit without breaking the bank! Anything would help, Thanks
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I just purchased a 2018 Sierra 1500 SLT 5.3L V8. I found a steal on offerup for a borla exhaust system. The part number is 19303332. However, the part number listed for my truck is 19303333 (verified with GMC customer service) I spoke with the guy and he claims the muffler package is for a Silverado but will fit a Sierra (hence the different model #) Has anyone come across this or can verify his claims? Links: 19303332- https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-exhaust-system-by-gm-19303332 19303333- https://accessories.gmc.com/product/3GTP1NEC7JG376770/53l-cat-back-dual-exit-exhaust-upgrade-system-by-borla®---associated-accessories-19303333?categoryId=12009 -
Hey everyone, Thought I’d start a build thread for my 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Crew Cab Standard Box (5.3 L) 4x4. Been my dream vehicle since I was a kid and finally owning one is a great feeling! I've quickly learned that these mods can get out of control though, but I’m sure you all know that! Here are the following modifications I have done on my truck so far: · 2" Zone leveling kit · Upgraded from 18" to 20" wheels (Matte black Rockstar 2 XD 811) · Goodyear Duratrac 275/60R20 tires · BakFlip G2 tonneau cover · Smittybilt Receiver Hitch D-Ring · Rigid Industries SR-M2 fog lights (x 4) · Rigid Industries D-Series lights behind the grill (x 4) · Enthuze LED headlights (high and low beams) · Swapped out license plate lights, cargo lights, and third-brake lights with Philips LED bulbs · AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Pro 5R cold air intake system · Borla S-type cat-back exhaust (side exit) · Added GM 3" black powder coated nerf bars (GM part #23194635) · Gatorback oversized custom fit mud flaps · De-badged all wording from doors and tailgate, including “4x4” decals · Plastidipped front and rear bowties matte black · Hood and tail gate vinyl wrapped with matte black rally stripes with pin-stripe outline · Installed driver side assist handle · Weathertech precise fit floor mats (front and back) · Blackvue 1080P DR650GW-1CH dash camera Here is my truck on day 1 when I picked it up; fully stock: And let the modifications begin…
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I know a lot of people are running black rims on white trucks and blacked out black trucks and color matching etc. I decided to go old school chrome (lux) look. I made this happen on the front end by swapping out my black front bumper skid shield with the denali chrome one. I also as some of you may know, whited out my badges with reflective vinyle (see profile pic) and decided on chrome rims, exception, these rims are powder coated and flashed for the exact same look as chrome except they clean up just like paint. soap and water and wax. So this may not be for all but it takes me back a bit while still be modern. By the way, to remove this and replace. off comes the under grill molding, the radiator shroud, the front grill, the front bumper, remove both bumper backing plates remove and replace skid plate. i followed these instructions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do4lHsbydM- 10 replies
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Is it possible to hook our leds up to a 12v switch to allow them to be at full brightness to see the potential at night? Makes me curious since the impala driver in the photo attached did this so easily.
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I just wanted to share my light mods I did over the weekend. I used many of your for advice and looking at old threads, so thought I would share the results...for reference, I am one of those guys that doesn't have a ton of tools, so when I get knee deep in a project, I usually don't have all the tools, which makes the jobs a little frustrating (I know what I want to do, but can't because of the resources I have) hope that makes sense. having said that, these two projects went pretty well...and an amateur (like me) could do them. First Camper lights: i tapped into the power wire for my dome light, I got the string lights with remote and color changing from Amazon (around $20). I then glued the lights to a velcro hooks strip and let dry...once they were dry, I hung them around the top. *note, that the glue didn't stick for crap, so I ended up having to use little strips of velcro to hold the lights up from sagging. pics are of the remote and relay box, I put velcro on both so they wont move around when driving. lights wrapped around camper shell (note that the pics look purple, but they are on 'white' setting)... and the left over light, I kept wrapping around to the back near the hinge... LIGHT BAR I also got this light bar, wiring harness and switch with wireless remote as a package deal on amazon (under $40). i also got the split wire conduit from lowes to help protect the wires...I believe that it is well worth it and helps maintain the factory look without having a bunch of wires all over your engine compartment. first pic is where i zip tied the wire and fed it down to the light bar second pic is where i mounted the relay switch...i just used the bottom side of the plastic plug next pic is just showing how indiscreet the wiring is, how I zip tied it to the other wiring harness more wiring (it had PLENTY of wire to I had to loop it around a bit this is a pic of the remote sensor box and the lead to the hard wired switch and finally the switch...this is where i am 'meh' about it...I wasn't originally going to do the hard switch, but thought after the fact...it isnt the cleanest, nor the best...but it is the easiest and gets the job done... I hope these pics are as helpful to someone as this forum has been to me...I will be happy to post links of the stuff I bought if anyone was interested and answer any questions...again, I'm not saying my way is the best way, but I am happy with the way it turned out...but I didn't do anything crazy...enjoy!
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(Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart.
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Cannibalize my existing Samsung Wireless Charger and installed wireless charging ability to my 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. Minimal modifications (3 non-visible drilled wholes). Parts required are: Phillips screw driver, Drill and Drill bit. Source Charger might requiring some other parts. My job required micro Phillips screw driver, soldering iron, solder, sander, speaker wire (3") Electrical tape, and pliers. Enjoy and pass along any suggestions. -
Has anyone taken apart a 14-15 Chevy headlight before? Im curious about the black plastic piece that divides the chrome from the high beam housing and low beam housing. Has anyone attempted to remove this piece? And successfully reapplied it with breaking anything? My goal is to fabricate a piece integrated with a LED light strip similar to the 16 headlight look. Thanks in advance
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This if for you guys that have oversized tires rubbing your fenders and want a little more than a zip tie, but less than norcal mod. I bought my 2014 silverado z71 ccsb used with a leveling kit and 18x9 -6 offset wheels. I just put on a set of cooper stt pro's in 275/70r18 and there was a slight rub in reverse at full lock. This NorTex mod aleviated that problem. I've got nothing against the guys that zip tie the lining back. My concern with it is that the slits in the lining may want to tear more than a hole would and the zip tie itself may saw through the lining over time. Here you go..... Find the closest point between the fender liner and the body mount bracket and clamp them together. Drill one 3/16 hole through fender liner and metal. Use a 3/16 x 1/4 grip rivet and a #6 washer. Put the washer on the rivet before inserting it into the drilled hole, then rivet it on. That should be enough to add about 3/4 inch or so of clearance. The plastic piece at the bottom and rear of the front fender was being rubbed as well. It was being hit on the top of the most inside corner. I didn't want the tire to rip it off and since it shouldn't be removed, because of how it's attached, I did some trimming. I cut a triangular piece off of the top, most inside corner. The cut line was about 1.5-2" long making a square triangle cut off. Here's the kicker. Bevel the cut edge with a razor blade. That way if there is anymore contact the tire won't have a square angle to catch onto and will have a better chance to slide over the plastic trim piece. The tools I used were; -Power drill with 1/8(pilot hole) & 3/16 bits -Vise grips -Flash light -flat razor blade -Hack saw blade (held by vise grips to get in flush on the plastic piece) -Rivet gun, rivets and washers There you have it. This took me about 30 minutes and I would caution you to watch for falling debris as you're under the fender. I hope this helps.
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Good afternoon, We are excited to announce that our 2014-2015 GM truck and SUV intake system is officially scheduled to be release/ for sale in early November! The new intake will have all the great benefits and features/construction as our previous GM truck and SUV intake system and will fit the following vehicles: 2014-2015 * Chevy Silverado 1500 * GMC Sierra 1500 * GMC Yukon/Yukon XL 2015 * Chevy Tahoe/Suburban 1500 You can also see our facebook post! -
Hey so I have around 2000$ to play around with and I have a 2014 GMC sierra 4 wheel drive with the only thing put on it is a Rough Country 2 inch level and nitto trail grapplers. I have some idea's in what I want to do but I was wondering if any of you guys have any ideas for me. I'm looking for accessories outside of the truck not necessarily performance mods. I have a toolbox, 5% tint, and rhino lining in the bed. I'm looking for a more showy or buffer look on the truck. My idea is to get everything from Rough Country, but I'm open to other companies. What I have in mind is a 50 inch light bar w/ bracket, a chrome bull bar w/ 20 inch light bar, and some nfab running boards with the 3rd step for toolbox access (I have the 6'6 bed and I've seen them and they look great). If y'all have any ideas for me that'd be great! or if you think any of these clash. Thanks
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So, a couple months back I installed the Magnaflow cat-back, single in/dual out, exhaust system on my 2015 2500HD 6.0L Sierra (see some info/pics on the install and outcome below). http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171270-2015-60-muffler/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1673626 Truly I am quite happy with it. Got a great deal online, sounds great, was able to install it myself with no major issues, got the dual tips perfectly aligned, etc... Fast forward about 2,000 miles. Still love it, however after moving it in my driveway I recently noticed a 3rd wet spot underneath my truck about the same size/shape/color as what had resulted in water dripping from the exhaust tips. So, I got underneath and noticed that some water was dripping from both outlet ports from the muffler. Now, the drips on each side are coming from where you clamp the rear pipes to the muffler outlets. Worth mentioning: periodically since installing, I have gotten back under the truck and checked every nut and bolt for loosening and re-tightened where necessary. There was some very slightly that tightened more after about 50-100 miles but absolutely none since then. Also worth mentioning: the outlet ports on the rear of the muffler are basically exhaust pipe diameter and stick out roughly 1", which is what you connect the exhaust pipe to, and clamp down on. The 1" that sticks out obviously is not a perfect tube; the welding imperfections stick out 1/4"-1/2". I did not want to clamp the exhaust pipe down to only half, or the tip, of the outlet port, so it is partially clamped down over welded material. I believe this is obviously why there is some water leaking, but I saw no way to avoid this. I found the point where I thought the pipe was clamped on just enough to be as solid as possible, which meant MAYBE a few mm's of weld bumps, and tightened the hell out of it. My question: how big of a problem is this small water leak, does it largely effect backpressure, performance, etc.? I am not very knowledgeable on exhaust systems as my last one was done at a local shop, but the only solution I can see is taking it to a shop and having them weld those pieces together to eliminate this issue. At that point, might they as well weld each connection together? Anyone have any other suggestions? Any and all feedback or insight is appreciated. I am pretty sure I know what a shop will tell me to do, but hoping to get the real scoop here first! Thanks!!!! -
I am thinking about taking my front GMC and tailgate GMC logos off and Painting them to match the truck....truck is a 2013 Sierra in Heritage Blue Metallic, problem is blue logos on the front reminds me of a ford, is it a good idea to try this or leave it stock?
