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Found 173 results

  1. I would like to change the regular bulbs in my Front turn signals on my RST to LEDs. Does anyone know what bulbs these are (they are marked 855)? Any recommendations on LED's that won't require resistors?
  2. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  3. So the answers I found online all resulted in cutting the active shutters to get this to work so I devised another way. I’m still not happy with the upper bar mounting which is two bars connected to the light but it is mounted and works great. The hardest part of finding a LED light bar that isn’t deep. The one I found on eBay is about the size of an Apple Watch when you look at it from the side. The bracket was just a piece of aluminum angle cut to fit (40”) and painted black. I used 2 of the three holes for the active shutters with a longer button type bolt, spacer, and lock washer. You will need to use spacer to clear the active shutters and to adjust the placement for the light bars. Cost wise I probably spent about $150 total.
  4. Hi everyone, It is my first time posting here and my first GM truck (2018 Sierra 1500). Before I jump into the topic here is what I have done to the truck to date: • Relay/Fuse Box install • LED RGB rock lights / ground effects and blue tooth controller • Rough Country 2” level • Black door handles and mirror caps (chrome delete) • TruXedo Pro X15 Soft Roll-up Truck Bed Tonneau • LED reverse and center high mount lights • Husky front and rear floor liners • Under seat storage box in the rear I love LED lighting, so once I got the truck I started researching what the best ways were to hook up AUX lighting or accessories. I did a few searches on power sources, switch mounting, and the best way to run wires from the engine bay to inside the cab. I was able to gather a few pieces of information, but still had multiple pieces of the build to develop to connect the dots. This is where I decided I was going to build a relay/fuse panel to control up to 5 aftermarket electrical accessories. Build detail (pictures below): • Create a relay/fuse panel with 5 relays. Mounting location is the opening for the second battery. I started with a 12”x12” piece of 1/8” thick ABS from amazon and laid out my parts then cut off the excess material with a dremel. Items I mounted to the panel – 6 output fuse block, 5 40 amp fuses, 10 position double row screw terminal block, and a 100 amp mini bus bar for the grounds. My relays came with 6 inch pigtail wires, but that was not enough length for all my runs so I removed all the wires and made new wires for each position to the required length to keep it clean. To connect the ABS fuse/relay panel to the truck I did not want to use self tapping screws as the holes become stripped after ~4 insertions so I ended up installing 4 rivnuts, which turned out to be awesome and allow me to use 4 bolts to install the panel so I can remove and install it as many times as I need. Highly recommend using these for mounting items in the engine bay. • Create a mount to hold my Bluetooth controller for my LED rock lights. Mounting location is the opening for the second battery. To connect this mount I used two existing bolts in the second battery pan so I wanted to use a thicker piece of ABS. I used 1/4” thick ABS and it is very strong. I cut the ABS with a dremel then used a heat gun to bend the mount into shape to keep the Bluetooth controller horizontal to the ground. • Use a fuse tap to tap into the heated steering wheel 7.5amp fuse located in the driver’s side fuse block to energize the relays. This fuse is only powered with the ignition on so if I forget to switch off lights they will automatically turn off when I shut off the truck. My relays only require .3amps each to energize them so with all 5 on at the same time they would only be pulling ~1.5amps • Create a wire harness with 6 wires that run from the engine bay to inside the cab using the cap located by the drivers door hinge on the drivers side. 5 16AWG wires for switches and 1 10AWG wire for potential powering switches if I want some accessories to not be limited to “ignition on” only. Wrap the wires in wire loom to protect them. I then sliced a hole in the cap and slid my wires through the insertion so that when the wires are back on the truck the cap still provides a weather tight seal. Where the wires go through the cap I used a piece of heat shrink so the cap would seal tightly against it. • Pull power direct from the battery into a 100amp circuit breaker then to my fuse panel. Mounted the circuit breaker with 2 more rivnuts. Used 4 gauge wire and created power cables and ran directly off the battery terminal nut. This should have been easy but GM scores the bolts to prevent the nuts from being removed from the terminal. I did not have the correct size die so I used a dremel to clean up the thread and was able to get the bolt off. If you cant get this to work you can cut the bolt completely off and order a new mounting bolt on amazon for $10.50 -> Battery Cable Tensioner Bolt 61128373946T With Lock Nut and Washer. • Rock lights and blue tooth controller – I used 8 LUX lighting systems lights and a Bluetooth controller they offer from XK Glow. I got 4 lights that are Monster RGB and have 10 foot wire leads and 4 lights that are Monster RGB XL which have longer wired leads (20 feet). The 4 20 footers I put towards the back of the truck and the 4 10 footers I put toward the front of the truck. The way I ran my wires under the truck still led me to have to solder 2 of the wires to add extra length to reach the controller. I just looked at their website now and see they offer a “daisy chain” series, which I definitely would have gotten instead if they were available when I bought mine (Jan 2018). This would have greatly reduced the amount of wires I would have had to run, which ended up being around ~175 feet of wire. The controller is great and allows for 2 zones where you can change colors and patterns independently or synchronized. There is a third zone as well for a solid color. You can set a default for lights so when you flip the switch in the cab they come on to your preset and then you can use the phone app if you want to change colors or patterns. 8 lights does a great job lighting under the truck!! I did 2 lights in the back on the tow hitch mount. 2 under each running board and then 2 on the front frame. I can take pictures if people are interested. https://luxlightingsystems.com/collections/monster • Still to be determined – where to mount my switches in the cab. Would love ideas/feedback. Ideally I would like to build a switch panel for 5 switches and connect it without drilling to the side of the center console. Since I currently only have 1 accessory hooked up I may wire a round toggle switch into the 12v outlet next to the USB connectors in the center console If anyone has any questions please let me know! I'd love to help! I am learning as I go. ------------------- Rough Country 2” level Black mirror caps Replacing the door handles i lost one of the nuts in the door and had to take the door panel off to get it. Take your time so this doesn't happen to you! LED light upgrade - Looks way better especially when you click unlock walking up to your truck at night TruXedo Pro X15 Soft Roll-up Truck Bed Tonneau Starting the fuse/relay panel. Cutting the ABS New wires added to the relays and then cut to length and mounted to ABS Wiring harness for 6 wires. 5 for switches and 1 potentially for switch power in the future. Notice going through the grommet with heat shrink to make sure its weather tight Fuse tap on the 7.5amp heated steering wheel fuse and fishing wires. Caption in picture is supposed to say "Top side is power(+)" 4 rivnuts installed to mount the panel to. This allows you to easily install and uninstall. If you've never used a rivnut, youtube it. there a lot of good videos test fit in the truck So many wires to run! Bluetooth controller mount bent to shape and test fit Bluetooth controller mounted and starting to wire in lights 100 Amp circuit breaker installed to the left of the battery. Rivnuts used again. After the circuit breaker I ran the power wire across the top of the engine bay and zip tied it to an existing harness. All 8 rock lights wired into 2 zones Complete and mounted! Pics of the finished product. Sorry for the bad pictures! I need to get better ones standing further back from the truck. They throw a lot of light!!
  5. Have you seen the Michael J Fox Edition Sierra/Silverado rolling down the road? Looks like the Toyota from Back to the Future. Anyway there is a really cool headlight switch with the option for Off-Road lights. Apparently with a long push of the button the BCM will latch the signal and provide a constant positive signal for triggering a relay. It will also illuminate the icon on the switch as well as send a signal to the cluster illuminating an amber light icon next to the fog light icon or “ORL” in amber. I successfully installed this in my wife’s ‘16 2500 Denali yesterday but from what I’ve read it’s the same for 1/2 tons, HDs, and Colorado/Canyon. The BCM already has Programing for this from the factory but I’m not sure when (how early) it was started. I have a ‘15 3500 that I’ll try soon as well as a friend’s ‘17 2500 to do soon. If the Programing hasn’t been done in my ‘15 I’ll still be able to get the switch to illuminate as well as latch a signal for positive or negative relay signaling using a latching relay. There are several variants of this switch. Some have blue background for ‘17+Up model years and red for ‘16+earlier. Additionally some have the ORL switch without Fogs, and some have no surround backlighting. Here is the video from yesterday’s install..... ......More videos to come for other uses like work lights, incorporating into the X50A, rear facing lights, non programmed trucks..... Pgamboa has been very helpful in discussion about this as well as providing schematic-Thank You!
  6. Just installed a set of SL1 LED headlights in the low beam and high beam. These are fantastic! Check out the video below:
  7. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  8. A couple of weeks ago I saw an ad or post from Battle Born Off-Road about a behind the grill light bar for the 2019 Silverado. I was quite interested because I have read about problems putting a light bar behind the grill on these new models because of the active shutters in front of the radiator on these trucks. I had a behind the grill light bar on my 2016 Sierra and the extra light really helps on some of the dark areas I roam... I was quite disappointed to find that I may not be able to have the same thing on my 2019 Silverado RST. So Battle Born Off-Road posted an add for a set-up made by Baja Designs. It incorporated their S8 20 inch light bar, a wiring harness and mounting brackets. I inquired about the kit and if it would actually work. These guys called the manufacturer and confirmed it, so I pulled the trigger. The S8 light bar is awesome and it has a pretty slick amber accent light built in. This 20 inch bar really pumps out the light and has focused lenses on the bar. Installation was quite easy and after I got the grill off it took about an hour. The only week part of the kit is the directions in terms of removing the grill on the Silverado... If you are looking for a behind the grill light bar for the Silverado, this kit should top your list. sorry for the picture quality, but it's all I have at the moment.
  9. My first post!! I purchased the OPT7 AURA Pro light kit to install on the floor board in my 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. (Hard to believe a $67,000 truck does not have lights there). Does anyone know which wire from the door that tells the dome light to come on when the door opens? Or have the wiring diagram?
  10. Hello Everyone, After spending some time on the forums looking at everyones headlight replacements I finally chose the OPT7 LED H11 Headlight Bulbs off Amazon.com for $100 and thought Id share my experience with it so its easier for someone else to find what they are looking for. Like most, the first thing I did when I wanted a swap was to scour the forum for everyones experience. I saw some reviews that were good and some that were bad. Some people wanted HID, LED, Morimotos, and so on. My main priorities were this: 1) I want it to be white 2) Needs to look good 3) I don't want to blind people 4) Needs to last awhile 5) I don't go off roading much so light throw isn't TOO important 6) Needs to be at least as good if not better than stock. 7) Needs to be budget conscious Thus, with those parameters I nixed projector retro fits. I narrowed it down to HID/ LED. After doing some research I found that due to light patterns and dispersement, the HID would most likely give me a scatter pattern where as the LED would give me closest to the stock cutoff while meeting my additional parameters. This all being said I didn't expect it to be a 1 1/2 hour install. The lights worked fine once you figure out the right way to connect it all. The hard part however is removing everything and fighting the tiny space behind the light. There are two ways to do it also so I could have just removed the lights but I didn't really know what tools Id need and I did it in a parking stall at my apartment complex so I just went with the tight space. Not going to lie, it was tough. The space is really hard to maneuver and that was the hardest part for sure. Having done it, I could cut my time in half for sure but Chevy definitely didn't make this easy. Ok so install was finally finished and the fruits of my labor realized. Initial thoughts on it: 1) Install was a pain in the butt. 2) The truck looks way better than stock, Chevy should have done this from the start. 3) The space behind the lights is a pittance. If you aren't nimble or have medium to small hands then don't even attempt it just take the lights off. 4) The LEDs only go in one way so that makes things easier. 5) Lights are for sure brighter than Stock but definitely not overpowering. (Will have night review later tonight) 6) The LEDs fit inside the light and the seal plugs just fine but it is tough. Additional thought, These LED have fans... if the fans are sealed inside of an airtight headlight... isn't it just circulating hot air? Any thoughts on this could be helpful. 7) The whole set up looks to be really good quality parts actually. 8) Light output coming tonight *ADDITION* 9) Light output at night is approx 100-150 feet. 10) I didn't expect to like them as much as I did. 11) The output is a great color and at least double the stock output. 12) Plug and play I didn't have to adjust the lights at all. 13) Cut off is the same as stock. *MY VEHICLE* 1) 2015 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 4x4 Tungsten Here is the EXACT link to the product I bought from Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Headlight-Bulbs-Clear-Arc-Beam/dp/B00VNBDWPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458508907&sr=8-1&keywords=OPT7+H11 ** When you plug in the "Does this fit your Vehicle" it will say that it doesn't. Trust me when I say that it does fit your vehicle. I don't think its been updated because I ordered them anyways and they worked perfectly fine** **UPDATE NIGHT PHOTOS ARE LISTED BELOW** Ok folks this wouldn't be much of a review if I didn't have some pictures for you! If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will be updating this post as it goes and if I have any issues with them at all, rest assured I will update this review with the issues noted. **UPDATE NIGHT PHOTOS ARE LISTED BELOW**
  11. I have a Silverado Custom and I want to upgrade the whole headlight fixture to the LED headlights. Does anyone know the cost of the OEM LED headlights? Also has anyone heard of aftermarket headlights OEM style that may be coming out?
  12. Installing Wireless Cab Lights

    Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights. Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/ The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights. Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens. The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke. In our case, we went with smoke. You also get two remotes to control the lights. Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range. You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens. Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure. We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. The install: First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights. We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle. Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts. It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts. We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed. Here they are laid out in position. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud. This will locate the front mounting post. The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines. Repeat for the passenger side light. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light. Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline. Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights. They look great with the switchback mirrors! Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading! Thanks! WF41
  13. Hello all, I have searched for ideas on this, and only found a few people who installed "mood lighting" inside the bumper step. I'm wondering how simple or effective it would be to get some real reverse flood lights inside the bumper step? I know you could fill the whole cavity with a tractor light and it would work, but I'd like to still be able to use the step if I need it. So has anyone installed an LED flush mount or similar light that actually throws enough light behind them to use for backing up/ doing work? How does it fit inside the curved surface of the step? The reason is I want the ability to have light behind me for plowing snow. I already replaced the factory reverse and cargo bulbs with LEDs, I think they work fairly nice, but they throw really straight back like a spotlight. I'm hoping to have a little wider path lit up. I don't want to cut the bumper or have lights hanging down below the bumper, but I know those would be alternative options. I know there have been a lot of creative people adding auxiliary lights to their trucks, so I'm hoping someone can show how you were able to do this.
  14. I have a Go Rhino sport bar in transit, I believe I will be purchasing (5) Q Series LED pod lights from Rigid Industries. I'd love to see how others have ran their conductors for power, fuses, disconnects, and cab / interior switch setups. Any and all pictures , and information are greatly appreciated. Youtube and forum searches have been mostly a bust. Interested in what lights you all are running? 2016 Silverado Z71 LT Crew Cab
  15. I have a low beam out on my 2013 1500. I'd like to replace them with leds but I'm not sure which ones play well with the auto lights and drl stuff. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on leds that are on the current market?
  16. Hello everyone. I purchased a complete set of LED bulbs to replace all the stock bulbs for my 2012 GMC Sierra 2500 HD. In addition, I upgraded the tail lights and the head light assemblies as well to house these new bulbs. I'm very happy with the complete change-over except for the hyper flash issue I'm having with the new LED turn signals. Originally, I thought I could just replace the original flasher for an LED flasher that doesn't monitor the load on the circuit and therefore operates normally with the light-loaded LED upgrade. Turns out that the 2012 doesn't have a flasher and it's the BCM that controls the turn signal lights. From what I've researched, it appears that the BCM can be programmed to allow the use of LED's by changing the configuration of the BCM to a "cab/chassis" setup where the vehicle would accept the LED tail lights. I'm guessing that with changing everything including front turn signal bulbs to LED, the BCM reprogram to "cab/chassis" will not fix my issue because I've changed the front turn signals to LED as well. The other option I've researched is installing load resistors for every LED bulb. That seems a bit outrageous and hacking into the original wiring harness is not what I'd prefer as it makes it more susceptible to malfunction, corrosion, etc. not to mention the heat these resistors tend to give off, if installed improperly, can begin causing a whole other bundle of issues. So my question is, will the BCM reprogram resolve the hyper flash issue? Depending where you are but most dealers will charge $120 - $200 for the 3 minutes it takes to plug in but if it fixes the issue, I'd rather go that route instead of hacking my wiring harness. Thanks in advance for any help!
  17. This last weekend I went ahead with putting in the OEM LED tail lights from the LTZ model on my new 2018 Silverado LT. Overall the installation was successfull and fairly easy to do. The tail lights that I have had the stock GM harnesses still attached and I ordered a tail light harness (with resistors for hyperflash) from PGamboa. BTW if you are planning on doing this mod I would HIGHLY suggest the kit from @pgamboa. The kit was shipped quickly, was made with quality and I have never met a person that was willing to answer so many stupid questions from me . I would say that the most difficult parts of the entire process was picking a good place to mount the resistors, and doing the actual routing of the stock wire harness. The cables from the tails are actually threaded down behind the lights and down to almost the middle of the truck near the spare tire to an electrical hook up. If I could give anyone advice on this it would be to drop the spare and move it out ahead of time, makes clipping the cables in way easier. So onto the picks: Before the project: Where I decided to mount the resistors. This is on the drivers side and it is close to where the other cables run down. The cables were eventually routed in that opening to the left and continued through the stock channels: Close up off the resistor location: Afterwards, lit up at night: and with the reverse lights on: I know that some people say that they are too expensive, however I just think that they look better than most of the aftermarket tail lights that are out there. Also yes I am planning on adding White LED Reverse lights and LED License plate bulbs. If you have any questions about the process I would be happy to try and answer them.
  18. I wanted to get the pulse of how many people have successfully had their Denali/LED headlamps painted? I am very interested in doing mine but have 2 major concerns due to the cost of these OEM lights: - Is it REALLY possible to get these re-sealed adequately to the point I should have little to no concern of condensation ever occurring after spending some serious money to have these painted? - Speaking of serious money, what is a reasonable amount to expect to pay? I know you can infinitely increase the cost of these projects by adding different LED switchbacks, different projectors, doing intricate paintings vs. just satin black everything, etc. What I'm wanting falls somewhere in the middle. I want to upgrade the LED switchback module (bc why not if I'm already in $$$ to crack them open?) which runs around $150 I believe, and I want a simple Satin black + (maybe) a portion color-matched as well (still on the fence) as well as the GMC stamped in the chrome of the headlamps to be the red color of the emblems. Does anyone have any input/feedback/advice/recommendations on this? If I have it done, I'd potentially be willing to send them off to someone to have them done, but shipping is a major added cost. Is there anyone in on of the following locations (that is highly recommended as well as reasonable??): Houston, TX - Where I live Austin, TX San Antonio, TX Dallas, TX Ft. Worth, TX Baton Rouge, LA Oklahoma City, OK Any and all comments are highly appreciated!
  19. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  20. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  21. I have a 2002 Sierra Z71. I see a lot of options online for aftermarket headlights, but the reviews are terrible. Does anyone have a link to some known GOOD options? Thanks in advance!
  22. I was wondering if any of you have replaced the cargo and backup bulbs to LED. I have always used Diode Dynamics bulbs in the past because they are great, however I don't want to spend $170 on backup and cargo LED bulbs. I have Diode Dynamic license plate bulbs already because they weren't too high on the price. So if any of you guys replaced them and found bright white LED bulbs that aren't $170 like Diode Dynamics I want to know what brand you went with and where you bought them. Thanks!
  23. For anyone who's added their own lighting to their truck bed, what was your choice to powering them on? I tried adding a magnetic switch to the tailgate so that whenever it'd open the lights would come on. Wiring was done as instructions said and spent hours on it trying to get it to work. But I was left with the option with turning them on whenever I hit the Cargo light button inside the Cab.
  24. Thinking about adding 2 or 3 small leds in the ram air hood scoop. Guy on another forum did it on a Silverado but this is the only one I have seen. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/81-electrical/951082-2017-hood-scoop-lights.html%3famp=1 May be too many since I added running board lights though...
  25. Hi All, I was investigating the radio/ac/heat/lights and 4x4 knob lights to see if I could change them to what I desire in my truck and found they are circuit board LED's. Does anyone have any experience with these and if so, I would like to pick your brain. They are VERY tiny and I'd need to find some that match with a different color. I'm looking for a true blue, instead of the blue/teal that these are. This is my personal preference so, please refrain from negative comments. Everyone has their personal preferences/likes. Thank you all!
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