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For sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!

or sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!

I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?

Have you seen the Michael J Fox Edition Sierra/Silverado rolling down the road? Looks like the Toyota from Back to the Future. Anyway there is a really cool headlight switch with the option for Off-Road lights. Apparently with a long push of the button the BCM will latch the signal and provide a constant positive signal for triggering a relay. It will also illuminate the icon on the switch as well as send a signal to the cluster illuminating an amber light icon next to the fog light icon or “ORL” in amber. I successfully installed this in my wife’s ‘16 2500 Denali yesterday but from what I’ve read it’s the same for 1/2 tons, HDs, and Colorado/Canyon. The BCM already has Programing for this from the factory but I’m not sure when (how early) it was started. I have a ‘15 3500 that I’ll try soon as well as a friend’s ‘17 2500 to do soon. If the Programing hasn’t been done in my ‘15 I’ll still be able to get the switch to illuminate as well as latch a signal for positive or negative relay signaling using a latching relay. There are several variants of this switch. Some have blue background for ‘17+Up model years and red for ‘16+earlier. Additionally some have the ORL switch without Fogs, and some have no surround backlighting. Here is the video from yesterday’s install..... ......More videos to come for other uses like work lights, incorporating into the X50A, rear facing lights, non programmed trucks..... Pgamboa has been very helpful in discussion about this as well as providing schematic-Thank You!

(Updated to reflect I have purchased BRAND NEW OEM LED Harnesses to accompany these lights) For sale are my Chevrolet LED Tail Lights. I originally purchased these to replace my existing tail lights but had a change of heart and painted my existing housings instead. In great shape and will be cleaned and polished for new owner. Asking $440 ($470 shipped) If you have any questions or want additional pictures, shoot me a message,

I bought a 2015 2500HD Sierra with regular tow mirrors, recently upgraded to the tow mirrors with the amber front lights. After install, the amber lights only turn on after unlocking the doors and then naturally they time out. Will not turn on as running lights. Any suggestions?

This last weekend I went ahead with putting in the OEM LED tail lights from the LTZ model on my new 2018 Silverado LT. Overall the installation was successfull and fairly easy to do. The tail lights that I have had the stock GM harnesses still attached and I ordered a tail light harness (with resistors for hyperflash) from PGamboa. BTW if you are planning on doing this mod I would HIGHLY suggest the kit from @pgamboa. The kit was shipped quickly, was made with quality and I have never met a person that was willing to answer so many stupid questions from me . I would say that the most difficult parts of the entire process was picking a good place to mount the resistors, and doing the actual routing of the stock wire harness. The cables from the tails are actually threaded down behind the lights and down to almost the middle of the truck near the spare tire to an electrical hook up. If I could give anyone advice on this it would be to drop the spare and move it out ahead of time, makes clipping the cables in way easier. So onto the picks: Before the project: Where I decided to mount the resistors. This is on the drivers side and it is close to where the other cables run down. The cables were eventually routed in that opening to the left and continued through the stock channels: Close up off the resistor location: Afterwards, lit up at night: and with the reverse lights on: I know that some people say that they are too expensive, however I just think that they look better than most of the aftermarket tail lights that are out there. Also yes I am planning on adding White LED Reverse lights and LED License plate bulbs. If you have any questions about the process I would be happy to try and answer them.

Hello all, I have searched for ideas on this, and only found a few people who installed "mood lighting" inside the bumper step. I'm wondering how simple or effective it would be to get some real reverse flood lights inside the bumper step? I know you could fill the whole cavity with a tractor light and it would work, but I'd like to still be able to use the step if I need it. So has anyone installed an LED flush mount or similar light that actually throws enough light behind them to use for backing up/ doing work? How does it fit inside the curved surface of the step? The reason is I want the ability to have light behind me for plowing snow. I already replaced the factory reverse and cargo bulbs with LEDs, I think they work fairly nice, but they throw really straight back like a spotlight. I'm hoping to have a little wider path lit up. I don't want to cut the bumper or have lights hanging down below the bumper, but I know those would be alternative options. I know there have been a lot of creative people adding auxiliary lights to their trucks, so I'm hoping someone can show how you were able to do this.

I have a 03 Sierra and installed a LED light bar with dedicated harness from the battery to a switch inside the Cab. So my light bar ran perfect and then I started noticing when I turned them off, they would still flicker. So I bought a Load Equalizer and installed that in line close to the light bar and screw it to the frame. I go to turn my lights on and now they flicker while ON but turn off fine. This might be stupid simple but could that mean the Equalizer is bad? My connections are pretty solid.

I saw a few topics on swapping the Silverado 2020 LT 2500HD but they seem older posts from 2019. We just bought our 2020 and love it but I want to change the lights to LED everywhere. I went on Amazon to see but there are so many choices that I don't know where to start. Who else has done this ? help please :)

I was wondering if any of you have replaced the cargo and backup bulbs to LED. I have always used Diode Dynamics bulbs in the past because they are great, however I don't want to spend $170 on backup and cargo LED bulbs. I have Diode Dynamic license plate bulbs already because they weren't too high on the price. So if any of you guys replaced them and found bright white LED bulbs that aren't $170 like Diode Dynamics I want to know what brand you went with and where you bought them. Thanks!

Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights. Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/ The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights. Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens. The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke. In our case, we went with smoke. You also get two remotes to control the lights. Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range. You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens. Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure. We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. The install: First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights. We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle. Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts. It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts. We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed. Here they are laid out in position. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud. This will locate the front mounting post. The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines. Repeat for the passenger side light. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light. Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline. Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights. They look great with the switchback mirrors! Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading! Thanks! WF41

I just noticed this while cleaning the dash. It looks like some LED strip of some sort in there. Went through settings and didn’t notice anything about a light for forward collision or anything. Definitely too small to be HUD.

Hello All, New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine. Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2017 1500 Silverado. I recently had a message that my right rear turn indicator had failed. I checked and yep, the bulb was broken. I replaced both right and both left with LED bulbs and now my truck tells me that both left and right turn indicators have failed. All the lights turn on so I don't know what the problem is. Are the LED bulbs not compatible? Thanks!

I don’t like putting LED bulbs in the OEM housing if they are used on the road since they scatter the bright light and blind oncoming traffic. This install was not hard but more difficult than the 2014-2018 (and 2019 HD) Sierra. 1) unbolt 2 wheel liner bolts (10mm) and remove push tab to make room to work 2) use small ratchet and swivel to unbolt 4 screws (8mm) of the fog light housing and remove wire harness push tabs and remove bulb from fog light 3) use 10mm socket to “cap” the OEM expanding nuts and swap over the adjuster and only the ends of the 2 other retaining nuts 4) trim off all 3 tabs of the Morimoto pigtail with razor knife or box cutter (wear cut gloves and cut away from your hand and body) as you will install the plug upside down or the lights will not turn on 5) put it all back in and adjust light associated pictures will be loaded below.

So the answers I found online all resulted in cutting the active shutters to get this to work so I devised another way. I’m still not happy with the upper bar mounting which is two bars connected to the light but it is mounted and works great. The hardest part of finding a LED light bar that isn’t deep. The one I found on eBay is about the size of an Apple Watch when you look at it from the side. The bracket was just a piece of aluminum angle cut to fit (40”) and painted black. I used 2 of the three holes for the active shutters with a longer button type bolt, spacer, and lock washer. You will need to use spacer to clear the active shutters and to adjust the placement for the light bars. Cost wise I probably spent about $150 total.

2020 Sierra 1500 I saw this mentioned in a thread on here, but after looking through dozens of threads I can't find it again! After struggling to see while in Reverse, I think I'd like to install flush mounted LED pods into the rear bumper footwells in order to provide more light while backing up. Would someone who's done mod this be willing to provide a walkthrough on how to install the lights? (how you installed the light pods, where to splice, what you used to splice, etc)? If you could provide links to what light pods you use or recommend that would be much appreciated! I've got a Putco Blade Quick Connect Harness inbound, which I'll install and use for any splicing. Thanks for your time and help! Daryl

A couple of weeks ago I saw an ad or post from Battle Born Off-Road about a behind the grill light bar for the 2019 Silverado. I was quite interested because I have read about problems putting a light bar behind the grill on these new models because of the active shutters in front of the radiator on these trucks. I had a behind the grill light bar on my 2016 Sierra and the extra light really helps on some of the dark areas I roam... I was quite disappointed to find that I may not be able to have the same thing on my 2019 Silverado RST. So Battle Born Off-Road posted an add for a set-up made by Baja Designs. It incorporated their S8 20 inch light bar, a wiring harness and mounting brackets. I inquired about the kit and if it would actually work. These guys called the manufacturer and confirmed it, so I pulled the trigger. The S8 light bar is awesome and it has a pretty slick amber accent light built in. This 20 inch bar really pumps out the light and has focused lenses on the bar. Installation was quite easy and after I got the grill off it took about an hour. The only week part of the kit is the directions in terms of removing the grill on the Silverado... If you are looking for a behind the grill light bar for the Silverado, this kit should top your list. sorry for the picture quality, but it's all I have at the moment.

Anyone replace their standard turn signals and tails with LEDs? Tried to do some searches, but no results were showing - so if there is another thread, let me know. Any suggestions on which bulbs? Happy with the results?

Hey all, I just did a swap from factory bulbs to some Xenon Pro 6000k LED bulbs in both the headlight and fog light locations. Issue is that the fogs work great. But the headlights work for a minute then turn off and don’t return on. I have bought the canbus modules to add to the line but when attached they don’t work at all. Seems to be an issue from when the computer switches the voltage to the headlights for the DRLs. If anybody has had any experience or ways to fix this issue I would greatly appreciate it. I’m about to pull my hair out Thanks

I have a 2017 Yukon XL Denali and it came with HID bulbs for the Low Beam. They...are... TERRIBLE at night. They are OSRAM XENARC 66340HBI D3S 35W and I can't see more than a few feet in front of me and barley at all if its raining. I want to replace the low beams with LEDs ( Already replaced the high beams with LEDs). The issue I am running into is that the wiring harness is not the same for the HID and the LED. Is there a conversion kit I can get to make them work? I have H11 LEDs that are plug and play (as that was it said was correct for my low beams, but realized when I got in that they were HID and not halogen. Any help would be appreciated.

I did an LED exterior light swap (every single bulb), I put an LED flasher in, and I have two related issues. 1) When I turn on the hazards, all the turn signals and the brake lights flash. The brake lights shouldn't be doing that. 2) When the low beams are on, the turn signals show up as being constantly on on the dash and the signals and flashers don't work. (Flashing the high beams does not cause this issue, just the low beams) Neither of these issues were around before I did the lights. I did the backs first and neither of the issues were present at that point either. I'm guessing I need a resistor somewhere but what do y'all think?

So, let me preface this by saying, as of today 8/14/20, no one still makes hood mounted LED pod light mounts for the new body 2019+ Sierra. Suffice to say, I got tired of waiting. So, I bought a set of the APS mounts made for the 2019+ Silverado for $75 online. I figured if I hacked them up and it doesn't work, I'm only out $75. Shipped out right away and got them quick. First thing, these brackets are thick. That was reassuring knowing I'd have to modify them somehow. Second, the brackets are too long for the driver side. The cut right into the wiper arm when it comes full vertical. I took off 1/4" off both brackets but still had to continue grinding the rear-facing edge down until I had clearance on the driver side. I also had to grind down the outer edges that were making contact with the hood closer to the hood line. Luckily, these APS mounts are beefy and can handle the loss of material. Also, the wiper arm that I grinded into is only like $25 to replace, so ill buy that down the line. This took a LOT of trial and error mounting them on the hood, taking them off, grinding more off, refitting, removing, etc. This won't work unless you have a cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, etc. And your trial and error will likely cost you a wiper arm as well.

Hi everyone, It is my first time posting here and my first GM truck (2018 Sierra 1500). Before I jump into the topic here is what I have done to the truck to date: • Relay/Fuse Box install • LED RGB rock lights / ground effects and blue tooth controller • Rough Country 2” level • Black door handles and mirror caps (chrome delete) • TruXedo Pro X15 Soft Roll-up Truck Bed Tonneau • LED reverse and center high mount lights • Husky front and rear floor liners • Under seat storage box in the rear I love LED lighting, so once I got the truck I started researching what the best ways were to hook up AUX lighting or accessories. I did a few searches on power sources, switch mounting, and the best way to run wires from the engine bay to inside the cab. I was able to gather a few pieces of information, but still had multiple pieces of the build to develop to connect the dots. This is where I decided I was going to build a relay/fuse panel to control up to 5 aftermarket electrical accessories. Build detail (pictures below): • Create a relay/fuse panel with 5 relays. Mounting location is the opening for the second battery. I started with a 12”x12” piece of 1/8” thick ABS from amazon and laid out my parts then cut off the excess material with a dremel. Items I mounted to the panel – 6 output fuse block, 5 40 amp fuses, 10 position double row screw terminal block, and a 100 amp mini bus bar for the grounds. My relays came with 6 inch pigtail wires, but that was not enough length for all my runs so I removed all the wires and made new wires for each position to the required length to keep it clean. To connect the ABS fuse/relay panel to the truck I did not want to use self tapping screws as the holes become stripped after ~4 insertions so I ended up installing 4 rivnuts, which turned out to be awesome and allow me to use 4 bolts to install the panel so I can remove and install it as many times as I need. Highly recommend using these for mounting items in the engine bay. • Create a mount to hold my Bluetooth controller for my LED rock lights. Mounting location is the opening for the second battery. To connect this mount I used two existing bolts in the second battery pan so I wanted to use a thicker piece of ABS. I used 1/4” thick ABS and it is very strong. I cut the ABS with a dremel then used a heat gun to bend the mount into shape to keep the Bluetooth controller horizontal to the ground. • Use a fuse tap to tap into the heated steering wheel 7.5amp fuse located in the driver’s side fuse block to energize the relays. This fuse is only powered with the ignition on so if I forget to switch off lights they will automatically turn off when I shut off the truck. My relays only require .3amps each to energize them so with all 5 on at the same time they would only be pulling ~1.5amps • Create a wire harness with 6 wires that run from the engine bay to inside the cab using the cap located by the drivers door hinge on the drivers side. 5 16AWG wires for switches and 1 10AWG wire for potential powering switches if I want some accessories to not be limited to “ignition on” only. Wrap the wires in wire loom to protect them. I then sliced a hole in the cap and slid my wires through the insertion so that when the wires are back on the truck the cap still provides a weather tight seal. Where the wires go through the cap I used a piece of heat shrink so the cap would seal tightly against it. • Pull power direct from the battery into a 100amp circuit breaker then to my fuse panel. Mounted the circuit breaker with 2 more rivnuts. Used 4 gauge wire and created power cables and ran directly off the battery terminal nut. This should have been easy but GM scores the bolts to prevent the nuts from being removed from the terminal. I did not have the correct size die so I used a dremel to clean up the thread and was able to get the bolt off. If you cant get this to work you can cut the bolt completely off and order a new mounting bolt on amazon for $10.50 -> Battery Cable Tensioner Bolt 61128373946T With Lock Nut and Washer. • Rock lights and blue tooth controller – I used 8 LUX lighting systems lights and a Bluetooth controller they offer from XK Glow. I got 4 lights that are Monster RGB and have 10 foot wire leads and 4 lights that are Monster RGB XL which have longer wired leads (20 feet). The 4 20 footers I put towards the back of the truck and the 4 10 footers I put toward the front of the truck. The way I ran my wires under the truck still led me to have to solder 2 of the wires to add extra length to reach the controller. I just looked at their website now and see they offer a “daisy chain” series, which I definitely would have gotten instead if they were available when I bought mine (Jan 2018). This would have greatly reduced the amount of wires I would have had to run, which ended up being around ~175 feet of wire. The controller is great and allows for 2 zones where you can change colors and patterns independently or synchronized. There is a third zone as well for a solid color. You can set a default for lights so when you flip the switch in the cab they come on to your preset and then you can use the phone app if you want to change colors or patterns. 8 lights does a great job lighting under the truck!! I did 2 lights in the back on the tow hitch mount. 2 under each running board and then 2 on the front frame. I can take pictures if people are interested. https://luxlightingsystems.com/collections/monster • Still to be determined – where to mount my switches in the cab. Would love ideas/feedback. Ideally I would like to build a switch panel for 5 switches and connect it without drilling to the side of the center console. Since I currently only have 1 accessory hooked up I may wire a round toggle switch into the 12v outlet next to the USB connectors in the center console If anyone has any questions please let me know! I'd love to help! I am learning as I go. ------------------- Rough Country 2” level Black mirror caps Replacing the door handles i lost one of the nuts in the door and had to take the door panel off to get it. Take your time so this doesn't happen to you! LED light upgrade - Looks way better especially when you click unlock walking up to your truck at night TruXedo Pro X15 Soft Roll-up Truck Bed Tonneau Starting the fuse/relay panel. Cutting the ABS New wires added to the relays and then cut to length and mounted to ABS Wiring harness for 6 wires. 5 for switches and 1 potentially for switch power in the future. Notice going through the grommet with heat shrink to make sure its weather tight Fuse tap on the 7.5amp heated steering wheel fuse and fishing wires. Caption in picture is supposed to say "Top side is power(+)" 4 rivnuts installed to mount the panel to. This allows you to easily install and uninstall. If you've never used a rivnut, youtube it. there a lot of good videos test fit in the truck So many wires to run! Bluetooth controller mount bent to shape and test fit Bluetooth controller mounted and starting to wire in lights 100 Amp circuit breaker installed to the left of the battery. Rivnuts used again. After the circuit breaker I ran the power wire across the top of the engine bay and zip tied it to an existing harness. All 8 rock lights wired into 2 zones Complete and mounted! Pics of the finished product. Sorry for the bad pictures! I need to get better ones standing further back from the truck. They throw a lot of light!!