Unfortunately you likely don’t have the wiring you need. There is a pass through nipple on your firewall boot specifically for passing upfitter wiring through. Stealing power from an unused accessory source like power seats, inverter power, ect. might be a viable option. Try to find an option that you don’t have and have no plans to upgrade to. You may be able to source power this way from a fused source.
Here is a link to a fully populated plug. The accessory pins are the perfect place to grab power for a CB, outlets, ect. https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-silverado-sierra-x7-auxiliary-upfitter-harness/ The 30 amp pins are coming from the X50A upfitter relay outputs (terminal 87). Without those relays, and without those relays wired back to the X61A they will not have power.
Yes, it seems that the yellow wire is the issue. You should double check the connection at the BCM to be sure that everything is correct. Correct cavity, proper depth, good (tight) connection.
Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met. #1, the ORL function is triggered #2, the high beams are triggered The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. Here’s how it should look.... Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar. Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire. #85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. I hope this helps. New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?
I’ve asked Mrs. Claus for a heated wheel for Xmas... going to upgrade my ‘19 International CV... Eventually Cluster and ditch the “IOB” which should be “IOU” after spending $118K I feel like the owe me a little more. Video to come.
You likely don’t have the wiring between the switch (S48A) and the junction block (X61A) and are probably also missing the wiring between the X61A and the Underhood fuse box (X50A). You can easily bypass the X61A altogether and run 4 wires from the output pins on the S48A straight to the X50A passing through the firewall boot. If you have the provisions for Upfitter relays (pins in the X50A) than you should be good to go after you connect the switch to the X50A.
I have a 2019 International CV which is the same thing as a new Silverado 4500-6500HD. The 2WD versions have rear airbag suspension which can be raised and lowered. I’ll see if there’s a part number I can grab next time I’m at the wrecker builder’s shop. (Mainly for the button). Yes, the pedal adjustment has two different outputs. Since the pedals cannot be adjusted while in gear it would be a great switch to use for something, even momentarily like an air horn.
Yes, have WAMS correct it. I had the opposite with TPMS on my 3500, they don’t have TPMS so I was getting the warning for that too. Chris definitely stands behind what he sells. He’ll get it right. Thinking about this on my new International CV.....
I had the “service power steering” come on on mine too. I think the cluster thinks it’s still in a Yukon with electric power steering. Correct for being in an HD without the electric steering and away goes the light.
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