This truck is my job....if it doesn’t work neither do I......This morning the dealer told me it would be next week before they could get to it! No thanks, I’ll regen it myself! They said that there’s another identical truck doing the same thing and they’ve already thrown 3 DPFs in it. The customer picks up the truck, tows a 10,000 lb load up I-70 through the Eisenhower Tunnel and the truck goes into limp mode! Customer drops the truck back off and picks it up a week later. &repeat &repeat&......Apparently an engineer from GM is trying to figure it out? What a colossal waste of my time and money.
Got my truck back from the dealer last Thursday with a new EGR cooler. It’s now the following Tuesday 3/5/19 and my truck just went into “Reduced Power Mode” 130 miles into a 400 mile trip!!!! I’m now in BFE towing a 6,000 lb trailer going 45 miles an hour on the downhill sections. It’s -10 and not survivable if I need to walk. I’m going to rip this damn DPF out and use it for target practice! I’ll be dropping it off again as soon as I get back to civilization and hopefully I’ll get it back within a week this time....although making payments on a truck that spends more time at the dealer than their “for sale” trucks do is really awesome 😵👈🏻
Yes, you’re on the right page with switch#23145163. Next are the relays. You’ll need to reconfigure your harness to accommodate the negative signal coming from your new Aux switch. The toggle switch that came with your harness likely has 3 wires, power, ground and output/trigger back to the relay. The other two wires in the harness attach directly to the battery. One is power (+) and the other is ground(-). The power or positive will have a fuse attached after a few inches (likely 30A) and then continue to terminal 30 of your relay. Ground will just run directly to terminal 86 of your relay. if you peel open the protective covering on your harness at the relay you’ll see the routing of wires. The negative that comes from the battery to terminal 86 will branch off from there. One wire will lead out to your light bar (providing a ground to the light) and the other will head up to your switch (providing ground for the indicator light inside the switch). The positive coming in from the fuse and going to terminal 30 is the supply power for your light bar. It travels from the battery through the fuse and into terminal 30 of the relay. When the relay is “triggered” or “energized” power going into terminal 30 gets connected internally (inside the relay) to terminal 87 and travels out of 87 to your light bar providing positive power to your light. So as far as the switch goes, power that comes into terminal 30 also branches off there. You’ll see a smaller wire coming back off of terminal 30 heading up to your switch. This is power for your switch which serves two functions. One, it provides power for the indicator light inside the switch that lights up when the switch is “on” or “closed” and two it provides positive (+) power for the relay’s positive trigger (terminal 85). So with power coming into the switch from terminal 30, if you toggle the switch “on” you connect power (+) to the third switch wire which travels back to terminal 85 of the relay. when terminal 85 has power (+) and 86 has ground (-) the relay will energize sending power to your light bar. What you need to do is cut a few wires..... First would be the ground wire coming into terminal 86. You want terminal 86 to be a negative trigger and not just have ground all the time. The signal coming from your Aux switch will be negative so it will go directly to terminal 86. The larger ground wire left over (now disconnected from terminal 86) should be direct ground from the battery to the light bar. Next would be the positive “trigger” to terminal 85. Connect the fused power coming into terminal 30 over to terminal 85. This can be done by connecting both positive wires that go into and out of the switch to each other, eliminating the switch altogether. Now there is full time fused positive power going into terminal 30 (for the light) and also into terminal 85 (for the positive side trigger). terminal 86 now has only one wire going to it (a negative trigger wire from your new Aux switch).
If you look at this X61A diagram you can see the in and out path (to and from the X61A). You can also see the wire colors leaving the X61A going to the X50A. Both of these X50A blocks have upfitter terminals.
Yes, you can either clip the wires coming from the switch down at the X61A or add wires to the backside of the X61A and add them to the harness. You should check to see if the wires coming from your switch going to the X61A in fact go there. Next see if they come out of the X61A and go to the X50A. It would be pretty easy at this point to continue the system with an OEM layout. Here’s a link to a short video on how to remove the X50A to check the connectors for terminals and replace the X50A if you want to add a new one with the upfitter switches....
Meant to quote your post, look up. 🤓 Also the X4 and X5 Connectors on the X61A May be reversed depending on what year diagram you look at. Just check other wires around for color and matching cavities to be sure.
Back on page 15 I posted info on the X61A schematics. If you have wiring in the S48A X1 connector already than it is likely already going to your X61A (down by the pedals). This is a good thing! Check to see if you have the pins in the X50A upfitter relay spots (metal tabs to accept relays) or if they are empty slots. You may already be wired up?
Regen issues and multiple trips to the dealer. I bought a ‘17 2500 with 20,000 on it the first week of December ‘18. It’s now the second week of February ‘19 and I’m at 31,500. Cosmetically it’s had the heated steering wheel replaced and needs a gear selector, mirror marker light, leaky oil drain plug. Mechanically it’s been a damn nightmare! It’s had the EGR coolant hose replaced due to a leak, coolant reservoir replacement due to the constant “coolant level low” light. It’s gone into “Engine Power Reduced” mode 8 times! Pretty much every time I drive the truck it gives me the message “Cleaning Exhaust Filter, Keep Driving “ for at least 20 miles. I’ve changed out the air filter with AC Delco OEM filters 7 times. The last time I brought it in to the dealer I was told that the problem was likely due to a clogged air filter which was a maintenance issue and that for $350 diagnostic + install a new filter and force regen it should be good. I declined. They did a regen on it and said the DPF was 95% clogged but now it was clear. Two days later I drove home to Montana (1,100 miles) with no issue. On the way back to the Denver Metro Area two weeks later it was -12° so I added a healthy amount of Power Service and kept the tank relatively full. 300 miles into my drive in the middle of BFE while climbing to the continental divide the truck started sputtering as if the filter was clogged! I pulled over at the summit and added a bottle of diesel 911 and crossed my fingers. I carry an extra fuel & air filter so I could have changed it out on the side of I-90 if needed but this really made me reconsider my choice of vehicle! Not 50 miles later I stopped and topped up my tank and changed my air filter just Incase. When I started it back up the traction light was on and stayed on for the duration of trip (12 hours with no cruise control). Once I reached Denver I unsuccessfully attempted twice to make a service appointment. Over the the next few days I towed a few loads between 5&7k lbs through the Eisenhower Tunnel and was surprised that it hadn’t gone into “limp mode” as it usually does seconds after turning on the exhaust brake upon exiting the tunnel, it only stayed in “keep driving or else” mode for 45 miles! Now she’s parked until Tuesday when I have an appointment at a new dealer for yet another coolant leak and this damn regen issue. I found this thread while looking for options to keep the hood scoop from drawing in moisture and clogging air filters with ice. Ironically I read one article where GM states that their new cold air intake was tested at the Eisenhower Tunnel! That’s exactly where I seem to experience most of my issues! High elevation and a load = make an appointment for service.....again! I thought I was getting a good deal paying $50,000 for a truck with 20,000 miles on it but it just ended up being an expensive way to achieve high blood pressure! My wife drives a ‘16 LML and had regen issues during forest fire season with clogged air filters. Now we change them out every oil change which is roughly every three weeks! 10,000 miles a month towing at the least an empty 1,500 pound trailer at freeway speed isn’t exactly using it as a grocery getter! She has 215,000 miles and running strong!
I recently mounted an ARB twin compressor in our 2016 Sierra 1500 light service truck. It works really well for filling flat tires, spares. It’s my third one of these and none have had any Issues. ARB does offer a rebuild kit for something like $70 if you smoke one. I mounted it to the second battery tray. This tray wasn’t set up for mounting a battery but a tray capable of battery mounting would bolt right in in-place. My plan was to mount the ARB to a plastic cutting board, shaped like a battery, then install the board like a battery. I was in a time crunch so I improvised when I figured out the tray had no hold-down spot. I shaped the cutting board to fit the tray. Mounted the ARB to the board. Next drilled the board/tray at the corners and tapped the tray holes to 1/4-20. Counter-sunk the corner board holes and installed the unit (ARB/Board) using tapered Allen head stainless screws. I wired the switch signal to the S48A dash switch as in the “Aux switch install” on this forum and labeled it “Aux 1”. I ran a hose to the bed and plumbed in a Flexzilla 50’ hose reel.
I installed an aux switch bank in my 2015 3500HD, ran the wires to the X50A and had backfeeding to the indicator lights. Also when the power was turned off sometimes the indicator lights would come on as soon as I turned off the key and they would stay on until the courtesy timing timed out. Other times they would stay dark. If I would press AUX4 sometimes the indicator lights for other switches would come on too and stay on until I turned off 4. With the addition of diodes all of this was totally resolved.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 31 Members, 1 Anonymous, 499 Guests (See full list)
- RAYS B4U
- The Reefs Wonder
- Robert Bernal
- Mike Barber