I am not saying Amsoil isn’t a higher quality product but everyone pushing Amsoil is saying that this will prevent AFM failure and I say that is not the case. In 1992 I bought a 1986 Honda Accord 5 speed for college. When I bought it, it had about 80k miles on it. When I sold it in 6 years later it had 235k and I was very very hard on the car. Oil used was Texaco Havoline with a Fram oil filter changed every 3,000 miles. No mechanical issues with the car, ever. I changed the timing belt when required and had to change the clutch once. the OP is frustrated by AFM failure which is caused by a poor design that is there only to increase fuel efficiency. The only way to confidently not have AFM failure is to remove that feature.
I used the Rough Country 30” curved light bar and the brackets that came with it. I used nylon spacers to get the right stand off from the active shutters. Here is where I have more detail on what I did
What type of camera interfaces are on the module? Just wondering if it is an RCA jack so any camera would work.
You are correct. I didn't need to fabricate any new brackets, just used the RC kit. I did have to add an additional hole in the flat plate but that was all I did to the RC brackets. Just take your time. I will admit that mounting the flat plates isn't easy because to get to the nuts on the backside, you have to bend you arm in ways that it wasn't meant to bend.
I have a 2017 with the 5.3 and had the same issue. Eventually it threw a code. Brought it to the dealership, turns out an the #2 injector went out.
Sort of... there are 2 holes in the hitch frame so I added a bracket that bolts to the hitch frame and allows the pods to drop doen to where I wanted them. You have to lay under the truck and the holes are in front of box tubing.
Check out this forum below. I posted more pictures and details on what I did in that forum. There is another guy on here who only added one spacer per side but has to modify the shutters more. I only had to clip the edges from two shutters but modify the grill a little more. PM me if you have more questions or want more details. I can also give you the details of how the other guy on here did his.
I installed the RC light bar behind the grill of my 17 Sierra with Active Shutters. Slight modification to the grill and used nylon spacers to allow the light bar to stand off from the shutters. No issues and no CEL.
There are four 7 mm screws holding the plastic panel underneath the passenger side dash. This will allow you access to the door hinge grommet from underneath the dash. I used a wire coat hanger and pushed from the inside out with my hand pushing back on the rubber grommet from the outside. Once wires were pulled through, I sealed the pass through with silicon. As for the removing the door sill panel, watch Phil's video on replacing the door sills with illuminated door sills.
Thanks, I am happy with it. I added nylon spacer between the brackets. I got the spacers from Lowes; the picture with the white bags are the spacers and longer bolts I purchased. The spacers were white, so I spray painted them black. I did have to trim a small section of the shutters to allow for the bolts to fit (picture 2). I also removed the shroud from the grille. I tried trimming it to allow it to fit around the brackets but realized it was only held in place by six clips. I also had to add a second hole in the Rough Country bracket that mounts to inside of the frame. The active shutters has an alignment pin that interfered with the bracket. I did have to cut out the vertical sections in the grille to let the light bar fit. There is one section of the grille that is up against one of the bolt heads and I thought about trimming the grille more, but I was able to get it to fit. Hope this helps and let me know if you have more questions. I'll be glad to help out.
I just finish adding Rough Country X5 LED pods as auxiliary back-up lights. I wanted a factory look so I wired the relay to be switched on by the cargo switch. I have a jumper going from the passenger side fuse box to the LED relay mounted under the hood near the battery. To turn on the lights I just flip the cargo light switch.
Got the ORL light hooked up (with Phil's harness) and LED mounted behind the grille. I do have the active shutters so it took some modifications to the grille for everything to fit. Next up is adding the latching relay. I would like the light bar to turn off immediately instead of holding down the button.
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