Ryan2017Z71

I added two light pods to help when reversing at night but didn’t want them to come on each time I put the truck in reverse so I tapped into the cargo light fuse. the cargo fuse is located in the dash on the passenger sode. I installed the lights with the relay mounted under the hood. For the switch connection off the relay I ran the wire through a rubber grommet on the passenger side door. Then tapped into the cargo light fuse. Here are a couple of pictures that may help. Good luck!

I am not saying Amsoil isn’t a higher quality product but everyone pushing Amsoil is saying that this will prevent AFM failure and I say that is not the case. In 1992 I bought a 1986 Honda Accord 5 speed for college. When I bought it, it had about 80k miles on it. When I sold it in 6 years later it had 235k and I was very very hard on the car. Oil used was Texaco Havoline with a Fram oil filter changed every 3,000 miles. No mechanical issues with the car, ever. I changed the timing belt when required and had to change the clutch once. the OP is frustrated by AFM failure which is caused by a poor design that is there only to increase fuel efficiency. The only way to confidently not have AFM failure is to remove that feature.

So using Amsoil will prevent AFM failure, got it. Can this be put in writing from Amsoil? If so I am sure their sales would increase drastically.

I used the Rough Country 30” curved light bar and the brackets that came with it. I used nylon spacers to get the right stand off from the active shutters. Here is where I have more detail on what I did

You are correct. I didn't need to fabricate any new brackets, just used the RC kit. I did have to add an additional hole in the flat plate but that was all I did to the RC brackets. Just take your time. I will admit that mounting the flat plates isn't easy because to get to the nuts on the backside, you have to bend you arm in ways that it wasn't meant to bend.

Check out this forum below. I posted more pictures and details on what I did in that forum. There is another guy on here who only added one spacer per side but has to modify the shutters more. I only had to clip the edges from two shutters but modify the grill a little more. PM me if you have more questions or want more details. I can also give you the details of how the other guy on here did his.

I have a 2017 Sierra with active shutters. I did mount the RC light bar but did have to modify the grill and add spacer to the mounting brackets.

I installed the RC light bar behind the grill of my 17 Sierra with Active Shutters. Slight modification to the grill and used nylon spacers to allow the light bar to stand off from the shutters. No issues and no CEL.

There are four 7 mm screws holding the plastic panel underneath the passenger side dash. This will allow you access to the door hinge grommet from underneath the dash. I used a wire coat hanger and pushed from the inside out with my hand pushing back on the rubber grommet from the outside. Once wires were pulled through, I sealed the pass through with silicon. As for the removing the door sill panel, watch Phil's video on replacing the door sills with illuminated door sills.

Thanks, I am happy with it. I added nylon spacer between the brackets. I got the spacers from Lowes; the picture with the white bags are the spacers and longer bolts I purchased. The spacers were white, so I spray painted them black. I did have to trim a small section of the shutters to allow for the bolts to fit (picture 2). I also removed the shroud from the grille. I tried trimming it to allow it to fit around the brackets but realized it was only held in place by six clips. I also had to add a second hole in the Rough Country bracket that mounts to inside of the frame. The active shutters has an alignment pin that interfered with the bracket. I did have to cut out the vertical sections in the grille to let the light bar fit. There is one section of the grille that is up against one of the bolt heads and I thought about trimming the grille more, but I was able to get it to fit. Hope this helps and let me know if you have more questions. I'll be glad to help out.

Got the ORL light hooked up (with Phil's harness) and LED mounted behind the grille. I do have the active shutters so it took some modifications to the grille for everything to fit. Next up is adding the latching relay. I would like the light bar to turn off immediately instead of holding down the button.

I was able to get the Rough Country LED Light Bar to fit. I did need to modify the grille some but in the end everything fit and I still have the active shutters.

I finished installing the Rough Country Behind Grille LED on my 2017 Sierra with active shutters. I did need to make some modifications to the grille but was able to get everything to fit. I replaced the factory light switch with the Off-road switch and Phil's harness so everything looks factory.

I got the harness from Phil and everything works as it is supposed too. I’ll take a look at what seaspacer2 has put together. Basicaly when I am driving with my LED light bar on “ahem” off-road and another truck is also driving “ahem” off-road I want to be able to turn the light off instantly.

If I did have the switch with ORL and i switched #6 & #10, would the fog lights come on when i push the ORL button and the aux light when i push the fog light button? I am trying to be able to turn off a LED light bar quicker than holding the ORL button for an extended time. Not as worried about turning fog lights off quickly.

That looks really sweet. I finally have all my parts and hope to install it in a couple of weeks on my Sierra. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good. Please update as you go. I plan to do this same modification in a few weeks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk