FWIW i also put some 20% ceramic tint on mine and experienced the same thing. From the outside they match but looking out the front windows are a more cool tone while the back is more sepia tinted. That being said I just used cheap 30$ stuff and did it myself because its not legal here and I didn't expect the cops to leave me alone very long.
I was in the same boat not to long ago. I originally purchased this guy which should meet your requirements. Black, Stock inlet size, 3.5" out. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GMNL36E/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thats as far as it would push on, it stuck out to much for me so I cut a little off the factory pipe. CUT I didn't quite think it was big enough so I then ordered this guy. Again fits the stock pipe but is 3.5" but flares to 4" outlet. Its black chrome. Seems to of jumped way in price compared to what I payed. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075V49BSX/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also hated the contrast of the stock pipe with the tip so I purchased some jet black exhaust wrap to cover it up.
...ALL IN and that's only about 2% of the collection and are just a few of my single emmiter jobs, keeping the big guns under raps.... I got more stockpiled lithium and silicon than most small countries. Same as the guy above I'm sure, I used 50/50 60led/M that come on the 5m spools for a couple bucks. I used a full 5m for my grill and wheel well lights of the 5000k white strips. For the wheel wells I got the already waterproofed led strips then put them in some waterproof sleeves then pumped the sleeve full of clear epoxy, since they are exposed to so much more abuse that most other places. For the grill lights I just used the waterproof LED then epoxied over them to hold them in place. To get good results you are going to need to learn to solder. You can just tap into the existing bed lights they are already fused/protected.
Unfortunately that harness isn't going to be much use to you if you want to use the aux switches. GM unconventionally made the aux switches ground controlling. You could probably hack up that harness and get something to work but its probably easier to just start from scratch.
Again I followed the factory harness (went to my integrated 3rd brake light in the sports bar). The factory harness goes through the front left stake hole and comes out under the truck. I pulled the wire from the lights down into the sports bar then through the stake hole to the underside of the truck then followed the factory harness to the engine bay. It was a bit of a pain feeding the wire down the stake hole as there are lots of lips and the gas filler tube in the way. Probably would of went easier if I did jack the truck up or had a second set of hands to help fish it down. It would be even more difficult trying to get the wires from the underside up to the stake hole. I've got the factory spray in bed-liner so I don't really care if the water pools.
part number for the switch that I used is 23145158 and was 61.69cad. If you want a full factory upfitter switch setup its going to have to buy a lot more parts than just the switch. Basically all new harnesses and a under hood fuse box as most of the trucks don't have the right one. Its simple enough to get the switches to work with some standard automotive relays though which is the route I took. The factory wires don't go into the frame rails they're just beside them on the drivers side. So i just followed them and zip tied along the way. The factory uses that plastic split loom so that's all I used. To get through the firewall I again went through the same place the factory did which is on the drivers side and has a big rubber boot. Take the harness tape off and shove a coat hanger alongside the factory loom. Then inside I unbolted the 3 bolts on the big black junction in the drivers side food well and flop it off to the side to give me some room to tape the wires to the end of the coat hanger.
I've added tons of lights to my truck. Started with adding 2 12" combo beam light bars on the GM sports bar. These lights are absolute cannons. Each light pulls 72W I was super impressed with the lights but there was a big shadow in front of the truck because the cab gets in the way. So I added the rough country bull bar that has there 20" single row LED bar integrated. This single light bar is flood optic and draws 90W worth of power. This now provides a solid wall of light in front of the truck but still decided to add a pair of ditch lights for more side lighting. This was a very cheap mod. I got the pair of lights for 25$ and the hood mount brackets where 12$ for the pair. Each light pod pulls 12W of power but has a very unique optic that makes a very wide beam of light. Had some leftover leds laying around so I put them in the wheel wells. All the exterior lights are wired up to the factory upfitter switch. Mounted the relays to the firewall behind the battery. all the wiring is in plastic conduit and follows the factory harnesses. I made one of the aux switches work as a master switch that turns on all the lights with the high beams. Also threw some RGB leds under the dash and rear seats. The controller for the lights are pull power from the driverside fuse panel and the colour/brightness are controlled with a RF remote.
Here's some much more budget friendly brackets that don't require you to hack up factory parts. https://www.amazon.com/Light-MountBrackets-Universal-Bracket-Holder/dp/B07GYPXD9Z/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=hood+mount&qid=1550981441&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1
You can use standard 4pin automotive relays if your just adding the 4 aux switches panel. sounds like you have the right idea on wiring. you have 16 total wires. -8 get connected to 12v (either right off the battery if you want them to function with the truck off, or switched if you want them to shut off with the ign) -4 get connected to your loads -4 get ran to the switch bank and put to pins 11 - 14
I ordered the husky liners. Mainly because I like that they come down closer to the ground and cover up more of the frame. Super easy to clean. Installed them with the wheels on and the truck on the ground. neither of those will really make inserting them that much easier. ALhtough I would recommend tape the painted edges around the wheel well untill you get the knack of how you fold them in. I put a small scratch the first time I had to maneuver them in. They mount with only 4 bolts which is nice. without Intsalled
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