Is there some secret to getting Android auto to work. My truck has the 7" touchscreen and has the screen projection icon on the home screen. I have the Android auto turned on in the audio options. I've tried with a galaxy s4 s5 and s8 with the original Samsung cables plugged into the usb ports in the jump seat lid. All the phones work with Android auto in my gf Hyundai. Usb ports defiantly work as the phones Will charge and I can play music from a thumb drive. I've tried with them hooked up to blue tooth but still no go. I watched a YouTube vid and when they plug their phone in the projection screen changes to an Android auto one. When i plug a phone in it stays on screen projection and clicking it simply gives me a message saying to connect a compatible device
Everything I did today I did wrapped in place. I know the upper console comes apart fairly easy as If i recall from the thread about guys retrofitting the wireless charging into it but I there not much to gain by removing it from the truck. I believe the cupholder trim can come apart but I believe its quite involved so I just opted to do it in-situ. Took a very big piece of vinyl to make that relatively small surface area. I'm quite impressed with this vinyl I got its actually for exteriors and is really thick compared to others I've worked with. Still doesn't even look like I've touched the roll I guess 1.75x60M was too much =p.
Phil any insight into this little light I stumbled across today? It comes on when you open the doors and fades out with the dome lights but does not illuminate with the dome light if you use to overhead switch. Is this connected to the factory puddle light circuit? OT but I find it kind of amusing the GM uses a warm white light for the door pockets(3500k), a neutral white for the cup holder illumination(4300k), and a noticeably cooler white for the dome lights(6000k)...
Just clips. The door and vent trim is stupid easy. The stereo shroud is a bit of a pain though even though its just clips. Even with my trim tools It felt like it was going to snap before coming off. There are 2 screws you can take off the back of the vent shrouds to remove the little window diffusers. Drivers side vent shroud is exactly the same except it has 3 wiring harness's with lots of slack that can easily be undone after pulling it out. Quick vid showing how stupid easy the other trims are. Got carried away again and used another few yards of vinyl. Started with the steering wheel trim (I was debating leaving the piece where the stereo steering wheel controls would go but it looked odd so I decided to cut it out) That went so smooth I carried on and did the door pockets. (never knew there was a light in there...) Again, everything went swimminly so I carried on and did the glove box latches. (I'm Not sure I like them but it got me thinking it might look good with the both glove box doors done and the center piece of the upper dash but that's for another day) Things went to smooth so decided to punish myself and do the console and cup holder surround. (It was by far the hardest piece I've done. Not to mention I used one solid piece with no inlays to do it.) Was thinking I might tackle the upper part of the outside mirrors and the door handles since mine are just black plastic anyway but again for another day.
I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine. I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery in case the primary starting battery goes dead. Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers. You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing... most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts. The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though. There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle. https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.
Ya you can still use this spade terminal. Fuse ratings are a capacity and the actual current going through the circuit is based on the loads that are connected to it. So in theory since this device charges at 9A you could safely run 5 of these at once off that single point(which you wouldn't) Yes, you absolutely should should go from that spade terminal to a Inline fuse. I would also recommend trying to stick with the same kind of fuses the truck already uses(micro 2) so you can use the spares chevy conveniently provides in the case you end up blowing one. Ideally fuses are chosen to protect a given wire size and the wire size is chosen based on the current the load is going to pull. Usually for 20A you would want 12G or 14G wire.
Couple questions trying to figure out the best way to get the function how I want. Truck is a 2017 without tow mirrors so no existing puddle lamps. I DO NOT want them tied into the dome lamp wire. 1. How do the puddle lamps behave (without any diodes) when the settings for "vehicle locator lights" is turned off. (I refuse to turn this on as it powers on the HIDs then shut them off when the truck is cranking then immediately ignites them again. This is horrible for the life of the HID bulbs, and the reverse lights coming on is stupid. It should just be the parking lights like every other mfr does.) 2. What is this circuit fused at for max load? (Some of the sidestep lights are getting pretty power hungry and don't want to overload this circuit) 3. Would the be any issue using a diode to power the puddle lamps from the cargo light circuit and which wire (color/position) This seems to make sense to me since it would be a manual way to switch them on when the vehicle is not in motion.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 96 Members, 0 Anonymous, 483 Guests (See full list)
- 15 Z71
- Travis Olson
- Mark Davis
- Alonzo Arellano
- Jtuner 2031
- Crazy Schooner
- S Palmer
- Jim Schmidt