I would love to see more pics. Especially one closeup of an individual wheel. I've seen some that look goofy behind the wheel. I love the stock wheels on my truck but hate the tucked stance. I assume you went with the kind the bolt onto your hubs and then have their own studs. I know there are tons of different wheel options for the K2 but are they all identical in their stance? How much width do the pocket fender flares add?
Anyone know how exactly the LED indicators on the switches work. I've had mine installed forever now but finally got around to tapping into my high beams and ran into a rather odd problem. I have it set up in a rather unconventional way so that I can control 2 ight bars individually with the first 2 AUX buttons or i can have them switch on when I use the high beams when AUX 3 is used. Everything functions as I expected except for my 3rd aux switch which receives it power from the white wire off the drivers side headlight, while the light bars are fed directly off the battery. When the AUX3 switch is off(open) the LED indicator is lit. (this is the main problem since the indicator is on when the truck is off and does not give me an indication of the switches position) -IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is open the light turns off. -IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is closed the light turns on. ( and the lightbars turn on as well as the LED indicators for AUX1+2) I'm perplexed and the only thing i can come up with is that it is somehow back feeding into the high beam tap and may be fixed with a diode... Tagging the other forum electrical guru's. @[email protected] Also gonna add the schematic I originally made up to achieve this in case I didn't describe it clearly enough. You can ignore the dash cam override circuit that has been removed since I replaced my dash camera. There is nothing connected to the load side of the R5 contact anymore.(but the control circuit is still in place and works as intended)
I used a heat gun on the more curved pieces.(stereo surrond, vent surrounds, and steering wheel.) I cleaned all the parts with Iso-proply alcohol. Also went over the pieces after i had them wrapped with the heat gun to ensure I wasn't going to get any pull-back or fingering going to happen. I only used a trim tool for the stereo shroud. I only had to use it to remove the first clip in the very bottom center. Once you get that one to pop out you can just work your way around and get the rest. First time I took it off it was very tight. The vent surrounds come out super easy. Just remove the dash side panel that is just clipped on and designed to come off fairly easy as thats where all your fuses are. Once thats off just pull straight forward on the vent and they easily pop out. The drivers side will have 3 harness you will have to unclip. Couple pressure clips hold the headlight/trailerbrake. assembly into the vent surround. Both sides there are 2 screws holding the little diffuser for the defrost vents if you wish to remove those to make it easier to wrap in. The door inserts need to be popped out from the bottom then titled up then pull out. The Gauge hood couldn't be any easier just lift straight up on it.
I've wrapped a ton of my interior with CF vinyl. (bulk on the roll exterior stuff) Stereo Surround. (just pull off, trim tool helps) Door Insert and Vent Shroud ( simply just pull off) Glove Box Handles (Did them in place) Jump Seat and Phone Holder (done in place) Steering Wheel Inserts (Done in place) Door Handle Inserts (simply pop out with a small blade screwdriver) Gauge Hood (simply pulls up) Bonus pics of my 14 mustang trim wrapped.
aliexpress link RPO is retained power. On when they key in in the acc or on position and stays on for 5min after the key is removed or untill a door is opened. Already tapped into it for my dash cam install so just spliced in the led controller. Blue spade terminal going to the inline fuse is the tap.(beside the square 50A purple fuse) RGB controller is just held in place with some industrial velcro. Can also see the nut/stud I used to ground just to the left of the white connector.
No finished pics in this thread so I'll contribute my little quick project. I used some leftover bulk 5050 RGB led strip and a milights RF wireless controller. I just tapped into the RPO power in the driver side fuse panel since all functions are controlled by the remote. I don't think the controller would work properly if I put it on the trucks dimming circuit posted above.
Free mod with some leftover LEDs and a spare controller I had laying around. Was a real pain running the wires under the carpet without removing the seats... Controller is capable of dimming them so they aren't as obnoxious as in the pics and has a RF wireless remote. Out of convenience I just tapped RPO power from the driver side fuse panel panel so they come on whenever the key is in and stays on until its removed and a door is opened.
Do you know the exact model of the amp. Looking up 750/1 on their site only returns the hd750. If that is the amp it does NOT have high level inputs and would require a separate LOC. Lc2I is great and I've used them several times personally.
I will confirm that my 17 is different. I added a bull bar and planned on following that video. All the bolts now face the front of the truck with no clearance to get st them without removing the bumper. I ended up cutting the one bolt with a hacksaw. Even more frustrating is realizing that chev could of flipped that bolt around and had no clearance issues.
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