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Crazyjoker77

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Crazyjoker77 last won the day on December 25 2018

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About Crazyjoker77

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    Enthusiast

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  • Location
    Canada
  • Drives
    2017 5.3L 4X4 1500

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  1. Husky wheel liners, vs OEM

    I ordered the husky liners. Mainly because I like that they come down closer to the ground and cover up more of the frame. Super easy to clean. Installed them with the wheels on and the truck on the ground. neither of those will really make inserting them that much easier. ALhtough I would recommend tape the painted edges around the wheel well untill you get the knack of how you fold them in. I put a small scratch the first time I had to maneuver them in. They mount with only 4 bolts which is nice. without Intsalled
  2. Right at the back of the driver side headlight you
  3. White wire on the driverside wireharness for high beam trigger.
  4. $50 and under modifications

    no it was a harness a member was making up himself. Its very straightforward to tap power out of the driver side fuse box.
  5. The Diode isn't for protection its to get the operation they want. With a wire anytime the cargo lights and reverse lights basically act as a single circuit. With a diode depending which direction its facing will determine which lights come on together. IE. you can go into reverse without the cargo light coming on but if you hit the cargo lamp button both the cargo and reverse lights light up. Alternatively you can have it when you go in reverse both sets of lights light up but when the cargo button is pushed ONLY the cargo lights light up.
  6. 2018 Bench Seat Cupholders

    https://imgur.com/1nujvoI
  7. Wheel Spacer?

    No I'm just looking into spacers for the truck but I've dealt with spacers for tons of other vehicles. seems I'm gonna go with 1.25" and 1.5" spacers to square up the stance and according to earlier in the thread I shouldnt need to cut any off the studs. But I'm still gonna un-mount one of my rims and measure for myself. If you want to cut the studs mount mount the spacers up and mark on the stud where you need to cut. Remove the spacer but put the nut back on and thread it all the way down to the hub. Make your cut with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel then back the nut off which will straighten out the threads for you.
  8. Wheel Spacer?

    No I'm saying its unsafe if you don't cut the studs and it prevents the wheel from being flush against the spacer. This picture shows it better. As it stands the factory studs stick out to far. To be safe he either needs to cut on the red line or make sure the rims have pockets deep enough. the pockets are indentations on the back of the wheel between the mounting holes ex:
  9. Wheel Spacer?

    Ended looking it up proper torque is 140ft/lbs as per page 469 of the manual.
  10. Wheel Spacer?

    You can cut off any threads that come out the backside of the tightened open faced nut without affecting the strength. The only real safety issues regarding spacers is 1. slip on spacers (the ones that dont have its own studs) these spacers essentially increase the thickness of the wheels and less threads get engaged. 2. using adapter style spacers that are too thin. When this style of spacer is too thin the factory lug nuts stick out past the face of the spacer and prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the face of the spacer. This is the scenario when you would have to cut the stud so its behind the face of the adapter or the wheels need pockets on the backside between the mounting holes to accommodate the protruding studs. 3. Spacer out of balance. The spacer is part of the rotating assembly along with the rims+tires. If the spacers arent balanced you will have the same symptoms as your tires being out of balance. The only solution to this is to buy quality spacers. 4. Wrong hubcentric size. If the adapter hub size is larger than the wheel it will prevent the wheel from sitting flush this is a very unsafe scenario. If the adapter hub size is smaller you can get a hub ring to make up for the size difference.
  11. Wheel Spacer?

    how many threads of engagement is what is important and is what provides the strength needed. I'm not quite sure what your asking. There are unused thread at both the back of the stud(the wheel thickness) and the back of the lugnut(the part where the unthreaded stud resides once tightened). That 14mm of unthreaded stud is useless and you can cut it off with no ill effects. adding spacers essentially increases the thickness of the wheel and therefore more threads are covered and cant be used.
  12. The only scenario that this would work for is to buy a either a DVC 2Ω or a SVC 4Ω sub any other configuration you will have bad results. Mixing different impedances is bad.
  13. Wheel Spacer?

    I just ran out and removed 2 lugs of mine(one locking one oem). There is 14mm between the top of the stud and the start of the first thread. Funnily enough it took 14 turns to get the lug nut tight. Therfore 14 threads of engagement is what is used stock. I probably wouldn't go less than 10. (this is assuming stock wheels your aftermarket may be different thickness which will change the number) What is the torque spec for the lugnuts?
  14. Wheel Spacer?

    ya i wrote the wrong thing. I want a square setup.
  15. I've heard them both outside of the truck and as I said the console stealthbox is not enough and the crewcab box is to much unless your upgrading and amping the speakers as well. The console box has a single tw1 which is a single 2Ω voice coil which is a 2Ω load. (rated at 300w) The Crew cab box is two TW3 which is a double 8Ω but wired in parralel for a overall 2Ω load. (rated 800W total) The RD1000 provides 1000w @ 2Ω. So its their best matched amp for the crew cab box.
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