Crazyjoker77

What's all involved in getting the android auto update? Besides looking cooler any increase in performance or added features ?

added some more budget lights. Haven't seen anyone mount anything here before and I always thought it looked weird how their was nothing behind the side steps. Find them more useful than I thought I would. The optics give it a 180º light diffusion and really lights up the sides very well, where I thought my pillar lights and rock lights where lacking.

Been way to long since I did any mods. Didn't actually permanently install it yet or run any wires, just a mock up of how it looks. The lightbar probably wouldn't get much use but it was free and I really don't have any need for more forward lighting. Sick of it taking up shelf space in the garage. Lots of option for wiring it up. -Use a relay and tie into cargo light switch -Reverse Lights -Standalone spot on my up-fitter switch. -Switch in the bed Or really any combination. Thoughts? Any other places to mount it where it might be more useful?

I used the dark black for my front. Took a picture with one done cause i knew people would want to know. It doesnt block much light at all and really makes the headlights looks a million times better.

Not sure if your aware but GM offers an upfitter switch. I used it and am very happy with it. Be aware though it wires up differently than conventional switches. (ground controlling) I'm kind of jealous of your relay setup I mounted mine to the firewall behind the battery out of site. Kind of wish I did have a 5th input.

I put rock lights on my truck on the cheap by using strip lights instead of the conventional pucks. Even though the Led strips were waterproof already I slid them in some silicone sleeves and filled them with clear silicone to fully encapsulate them. Then used marine epoxy to secure them to the wheel well liners. Used the leftover strip lights and put them in the factory grill.

Added some LED strips to the back side of my grill and took a few pictures of the truck at night.

Got the grill thrown into the truck tonight. Couple quick pics in my local field.

...ALL IN and that's only about 2% of the collection and are just a few of my single emmiter jobs, keeping the big guns under raps.... I got more stockpiled lithium and silicon than most small countries. Same as the guy above I'm sure, I used 50/50 60led/M that come on the 5m spools for a couple bucks. I used a full 5m for my grill and wheel well lights of the 5000k white strips. For the wheel wells I got the already waterproofed led strips then put them in some waterproof sleeves then pumped the sleeve full of clear epoxy, since they are exposed to so much more abuse that most other places. For the grill lights I just used the waterproof LED then epoxied over them to hold them in place. To get good results you are going to need to learn to solder. You can just tap into the existing bed lights they are already fused/protected.

I see your $300+ illuminated bowtie and raise you a $10 backlit grill...

Unfortunately that harness isn't going to be much use to you if you want to use the aux switches. GM unconventionally made the aux switches ground controlling. You could probably hack up that harness and get something to work but its probably easier to just start from scratch.

Here's some much more budget friendly brackets that don't require you to hack up factory parts. https://www.amazon.com/Light-MountBrackets-Universal-Bracket-Holder/dp/B07GYPXD9Z/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=hood+mount&qid=1550981441&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1

You can use standard 4pin automotive relays if your just adding the 4 aux switches panel. sounds like you have the right idea on wiring. you have 16 total wires. -8 get connected to 12v (either right off the battery if you want them to function with the truck off, or switched if you want them to shut off with the ign) -4 get connected to your loads -4 get ran to the switch bank and put to pins 11 - 14

no it was a harness a member was making up himself. Its very straightforward to tap power out of the driver side fuse box.

The Diode isn't for protection its to get the operation they want. With a wire anytime the cargo lights and reverse lights basically act as a single circuit. With a diode depending which direction its facing will determine which lights come on together. IE. you can go into reverse without the cargo light coming on but if you hit the cargo lamp button both the cargo and reverse lights light up. Alternatively you can have it when you go in reverse both sets of lights light up but when the cargo button is pushed ONLY the cargo lights light up.

No I'm just looking into spacers for the truck but I've dealt with spacers for tons of other vehicles. seems I'm gonna go with 1.25" and 1.5" spacers to square up the stance and according to earlier in the thread I shouldnt need to cut any off the studs. But I'm still gonna un-mount one of my rims and measure for myself. If you want to cut the studs mount mount the spacers up and mark on the stud where you need to cut. Remove the spacer but put the nut back on and thread it all the way down to the hub. Make your cut with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel then back the nut off which will straighten out the threads for you.

No I'm saying its unsafe if you don't cut the studs and it prevents the wheel from being flush against the spacer. This picture shows it better. As it stands the factory studs stick out to far. To be safe he either needs to cut on the red line or make sure the rims have pockets deep enough. the pockets are indentations on the back of the wheel between the mounting holes ex:

Ended looking it up proper torque is 140ft/lbs as per page 469 of the manual.

You can cut off any threads that come out the backside of the tightened open faced nut without affecting the strength. The only real safety issues regarding spacers is 1. slip on spacers (the ones that dont have its own studs) these spacers essentially increase the thickness of the wheels and less threads get engaged. 2. using adapter style spacers that are too thin. When this style of spacer is too thin the factory lug nuts stick out past the face of the spacer and prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the face of the spacer. This is the scenario when you would have to cut the stud so its behind the face of the adapter or the wheels need pockets on the backside between the mounting holes to accommodate the protruding studs. 3. Spacer out of balance. The spacer is part of the rotating assembly along with the rims+tires. If the spacers arent balanced you will have the same symptoms as your tires being out of balance. The only solution to this is to buy quality spacers. 4. Wrong hubcentric size. If the adapter hub size is larger than the wheel it will prevent the wheel from sitting flush this is a very unsafe scenario. If the adapter hub size is smaller you can get a hub ring to make up for the size difference.

how many threads of engagement is what is important and is what provides the strength needed. I'm not quite sure what your asking. There are unused thread at both the back of the stud(the wheel thickness) and the back of the lugnut(the part where the unthreaded stud resides once tightened). That 14mm of unthreaded stud is useless and you can cut it off with no ill effects. adding spacers essentially increases the thickness of the wheel and therefore more threads are covered and cant be used.

I just ran out and removed 2 lugs of mine(one locking one oem). There is 14mm between the top of the stud and the start of the first thread. Funnily enough it took 14 turns to get the lug nut tight. Therfore 14 threads of engagement is what is used stock. I probably wouldn't go less than 10. (this is assuming stock wheels your aftermarket may be different thickness which will change the number) What is the torque spec for the lugnuts?

ya i wrote the wrong thing. I want a square setup.

no completely stock from factory with no plans to do either.

Close to pulling the trigger on a set, the wheel tuck really bugs me. I was unaware of the difference in track width but now that I know I can't un-see it. Gonna order 1.5" for the front and 1.25" for the back. I shouldn't have any rub in the front with the stock suspension and 20" wheels when using the 1.5" spacer right? 78.1mm / 3.08" the proper centerbore for hubcentric?

Where and how did you mount the actual light strips? Also assuming you tapped into just the puddle light wire with no diode mods, any chance you could see if the puddle light circuit still functions when the locator lights option is off in the settings. I don't like my reverse light and hids coming on every time I unlock the truck.