Crazyjoker77

Day of test fitting of random stuff I impulse bought amazon with doing no reasearch. 25$ exhaust tip... Way nicer than what I was expecting. Its double walled with rolled tip and internal baffling/resonator. 2.8" inlet 3.5"out 10" long Just slipped over the factory exhaust. After the cuts. ( you can see the scrap piece on the ground for how much I cut off.) I'm kinda torn on positioning. When I look at it from the back I think it should stick out more but when viewed from above I think I should tuck it in more.... Another Impulse buy that I had no clue if it was going to work but I'm very happy. I've been wanting to buy the Zroads hinge light brackets but have a hard time swallowing their asking price and no other company seems to make anything for the silverados/sierra. I guess all the searching for them made amazon recommend these to me. I got this pair of brackets for 12$cad shipped with amazon prime. Other sellers on their were asking 28$ for a pair but even at that they are a steal. Again I haven't seen any feedback on them, nor have I seen anyone use them. I honestly wasn't expecting much and did'nt even order lights for them yet. These things. They are made entirely out of stainless steel and include a silcone cover that that goes over any parts that touch the paint. Even included 2 allen keys each. They work very well with out trucks and could be mounted pretty much anywhere around the hood. I'm Gonna give them a shot of black paint before I permenetly install them as well as probably move them closer to the outside edge. Also got some Husky Rear fender liners that I quickly test fit before I start cutting them up to fit rock lights. Happy with those too pics will be coming. They are way thicker than the stock ones...

I just used some bulk 5050 RGB led strips with a chinese RGB RF wireless controller. I redid the rears since I took those pictures and made a quick bracket so the leds face back instead of straight down. Honestly the novelty of RGB gets old quick and I ended up just setting it to a blue that matches the stereo controls and dimmed them cause they are a bit excessive at night.

I went through the boot that the factory harness uses. I just used a short piece of coat hanger and taped the cable to the end of it and pushed it in from the engine bay alongside the factory harness. Had to remove some electrical tape. I spent probably a good 20minutes trying to grab the coat hanger from the inside as it comes out right beside the big black junction box by the pedals. I eventually got fed up and just removed the 3bolts holding the junction box in and had the job done in 2 min.

Are those the factory wheel liners? They look the same felt material that the fronts are made of. I've been trying to get some people to post pics of them and the aftermarkets to compare how far they come down. I was hoping they would drop down another few inches to cover up the frame. Any chance you take a picture look up at the where the liner and box meet? Any chance of hiding a LED strip there without it showing the actual strips?

I redid the LED's under the rear seats as I wasn't happy with just having them zip tied to the bottom of the seat which had them facing down so I purchased some aluminum angle and made up these brackets to mount to the under side of the seat. As well I added connectors where as before it was all soldered in place. In the end it did'nt really make a dramatic difference but It was all parts I already had left around. Really shouldn't need a full write up to add these as its all really simple.

Did some budget rock lights. Hooked it up to my factory upfitter switch I installed for the lightbars. -9 $ worth of waterproof LEDs -4 $ Waterproof Sleeves -3 $ Tube of silicone -2 $ Stainless steel metal Ties. -20 $ 18G wire - 9 $ Waterproof connectors (so I can remove the wheel liners) -7 $ Wire loom Made the harnesses and ran them to the back but Holding off mounting the LEDs untill I order some rear liners since mine Didn't come with them from factory and I don't want to drill into the metal to mount them. Pictures make them look much more blue than they actually are.

I have my dash camera and loads of interior LEDs tapped into that spot and it does indeed cut power while its cranking. However it is energized while in the acc (first turn) and the on (second turn) which you have to go through to get to the crank (third spring loaded position). That spot also stays on after the key is removed for either 10 minutes or until a door is opened. I do not have remote start so I can't comment on how it functions during that. Out of personal curiosity why do you need a permanently installed vacuum pump on the truck or are you referring to an air compressor? To me a vacuum pump is what you use to fill and empty Air Conditioning systems and transfer refrigerant, an air compressor is for filling up tires or air bags. You may not end up finding a place to tap that functions exactly how you want so It may just be easier to get a Time Delay relay and set it to like 30 seconds. If your truck takes more than 30sec to crank you have bigger issues to worry about. My trucks a 17WT fwiw, I wouldn't put it past GM to change it throughout the years.

No that is the fuse panel on the drivers side dash that you access by removing the end cover with the door open. Theoretically that spade should be able to support up to 50A. Its actually designed so that you can move that 50A cartridge fuse over and it switches the always on 12v power outlets to be RPO instead. That being said you should size the fuse based on the size of wire its protecting, so don't go throwing a 50A fuse in their with some 20g wire. There are no RPO spots at all in the passenger side panel. There are some in the under hood panel but I don't recall offhand which ones they are but all required a add-a-fuse and no convenient spade like the drivers side door. As well the wire coming out of the hood fuse panel will interfere with the lid closing and will compromise its seal.

What brand are the spacers?

this thread needs more pictures and less blab.

I would love to see more pics. Especially one closeup of an individual wheel. I've seen some that look goofy behind the wheel. I love the stock wheels on my truck but hate the tucked stance. I assume you went with the kind the bolt onto your hubs and then have their own studs. I know there are tons of different wheel options for the K2 but are they all identical in their stance? How much width do the pocket fender flares add?

Well I added a single diode between my tap into the high beams and R3 and R4 on my diagram above and it fixed my issue. Everything behaves as expected.

Anyone know how exactly the LED indicators on the switches work. I've had mine installed forever now but finally got around to tapping into my high beams and ran into a rather odd problem. I have it set up in a rather unconventional way so that I can control 2 ight bars individually with the first 2 AUX buttons or i can have them switch on when I use the high beams when AUX 3 is used. Everything functions as I expected except for my 3rd aux switch which receives it power from the white wire off the drivers side headlight, while the light bars are fed directly off the battery. When the AUX3 switch is off(open) the LED indicator is lit. (this is the main problem since the indicator is on when the truck is off and does not give me an indication of the switches position) -IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is open the light turns off. -IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is closed the light turns on. ( and the lightbars turn on as well as the LED indicators for AUX1+2) I'm perplexed and the only thing i can come up with is that it is somehow back feeding into the high beam tap and may be fixed with a diode... Tagging the other forum electrical guru's. @TinkeringFox@pgamboa Also gonna add the schematic I originally made up to achieve this in case I didn't describe it clearly enough. You can ignore the dash cam override circuit that has been removed since I replaced my dash camera. There is nothing connected to the load side of the R5 contact anymore.(but the control circuit is still in place and works as intended)

aliexpress link RPO is retained power. On when they key in in the acc or on position and stays on for 5min after the key is removed or untill a door is opened. Already tapped into it for my dash cam install so just spliced in the led controller. Blue spade terminal going to the inline fuse is the tap.(beside the square 50A purple fuse) RGB controller is just held in place with some industrial velcro. Can also see the nut/stud I used to ground just to the left of the white connector.

No finished pics in this thread so I'll contribute my little quick project. I used some leftover bulk 5050 RGB led strip and a milights RF wireless controller. I just tapped into the RPO power in the driver side fuse panel since all functions are controlled by the remote. I don't think the controller would work properly if I put it on the trucks dimming circuit posted above.

Free mod with some leftover LEDs and a spare controller I had laying around. Was a real pain running the wires under the carpet without removing the seats... Controller is capable of dimming them so they aren't as obnoxious as in the pics and has a RF wireless remote. Out of convenience I just tapped RPO power from the driver side fuse panel panel so they come on whenever the key is in and stays on until its removed and a door is opened.

Did some more vinyl work. Didn't realize this piece was separate from the rest of the dash so it never got covered when I did the rest of the interior trims. Love how it turned out.

No video yet but here is a pic of the hazards right after applying the film. This vinyl really doesn't have much affect on the visibility of the lights. Still the stock incandescent bulbs.

Couple bucks of tinted vinyl really changes the look of the front. Few more dollars transforms the interior.

Everything I did today I did wrapped in place. I know the upper console comes apart fairly easy as If i recall from the thread about guys retrofitting the wireless charging into it but I there not much to gain by removing it from the truck. I believe the cupholder trim can come apart but I believe its quite involved so I just opted to do it in-situ. Took a very big piece of vinyl to make that relatively small surface area. I'm quite impressed with this vinyl I got its actually for exteriors and is really thick compared to others I've worked with. Still doesn't even look like I've touched the roll I guess 1.75x60M was too much =p.

Phil any insight into this little light I stumbled across today? It comes on when you open the doors and fades out with the dome lights but does not illuminate with the dome light if you use to overhead switch. Is this connected to the factory puddle light circuit? OT but I find it kind of amusing the GM uses a warm white light for the door pockets(3500k), a neutral white for the cup holder illumination(4300k), and a noticeably cooler white for the dome lights(6000k)...

Just clips. The door and vent trim is stupid easy. The stereo shroud is a bit of a pain though even though its just clips. Even with my trim tools It felt like it was going to snap before coming off. There are 2 screws you can take off the back of the vent shrouds to remove the little window diffusers. Drivers side vent shroud is exactly the same except it has 3 wiring harness's with lots of slack that can easily be undone after pulling it out. Quick vid showing how stupid easy the other trims are. Got carried away again and used another few yards of vinyl. Started with the steering wheel trim (I was debating leaving the piece where the stereo steering wheel controls would go but it looked odd so I decided to cut it out) That went so smooth I carried on and did the door pockets. (never knew there was a light in there...) Again, everything went swimminly so I carried on and did the glove box latches. (I'm Not sure I like them but it got me thinking it might look good with the both glove box doors done and the center piece of the upper dash but that's for another day) Things went to smooth so decided to punish myself and do the console and cup holder surround. (It was by far the hardest piece I've done. Not to mention I used one solid piece with no inlays to do it.) Was thinking I might tackle the upper part of the outside mirrors and the door handles since mine are just black plastic anyway but again for another day.

Its crazy how 4$ worth of tint will change the look of the truck. I always regretted not getting the Z71 for the clear signals but the blackout really works on a black truck.

More carbon skinned interior bits done.

I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine. I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery in case the primary starting battery goes dead. Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers. You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing... most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts. The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though. There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle. https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.