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'17 Sierra

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About '17 Sierra

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    2017 Sierra SLT Premium Plus Crew Cab Short Bed 4X4, Dark Slate Metallic

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  1. Thanks for the detailed reply. You and I are on the same page regarding driveline angles, CV and U-Joints. I plan on keeping the same tire size maybe a bit wider because I don't plan on doing a new gear. I don't want to overload the E-steering either. I have a 2" level now; front only and any wider tire will rub due to geometry change the level has caused (front hubs are closer to the frame now). I get a slight rub at full lock backing up with stock tires and wheels. That's the reason I mentioned 1/4" spacers and I do realize the impact that has on the spindle moment/fulcrum.
  2. I've done numerous searches here and I've looked at Fab Tech, Super Lift, RC, BDS, Zone. I don't do much off roading but I do like that height of a lift. the 3 1/2 Super Lift looks like what I want as far as the amount of lift and I really want to keep the geometry as stock as possible. Also want to not stress the CV's and U-Joints and it looks like most of these have a small diff drop too, which is good. What is the best one to maintain reliability? I won't go radical with tires either but K02's slightly larger than stock is a possibility. I probably will need spacers for offset to prevent rubbing (like 1/4") and I see Borla is recommended for that. Just looking for input here... Thanks guys, John
  3. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    This looks really nice. Installed yourself? From what I read in the Superlift site, it comes with spacers for the diff too so the diff does drop down slightly, right? Stock front shocks?
  4. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    I didn't with a 2" and I've never heard of anyone that has either.
  5. Leveled 2016 silverado with 33s

    '17 Yeah, stock wheels and tires.
  6. Leveled 2016 silverado with 33s

    That's correct. I have a 2" level and my stock wheels and tires sometimes rub the UCA's when backing up full lock. Lifting 2" brings the wheels in closer to the control arms.
  7. Leveled 2016 silverado with 33s

    That looks really good..is that a 2" level? For stock wheels, I think those look the best too.
  8. Curious as to why you wouldn't do the lift and tires again?
  9. The axle is in the way if you don't. That's where that comes from.
  10. Leave it alone, you're fine. The bolts were put in that way because they would have needed to unbolt the front half shaft CV joints to get the bolt in through the top. They have the same clamping force either way they're put in. In fact, I believe the RC instructions say to do it that way, not sure now. Also, you don't need to disconnect the electric steering connectors. No one knows why the instructions say to do that either. The connector's locking tabs break off very easily (ask me and many others how we know). If I were you, I'd be thankful that the tech didn't do any more than he had to; probably would have caused more problems and may cause more if you bring it back too.
  11. Best miles per gallon?

    I'm getting about what the book says; 16/23. These high numbers that are being reported is probably because someone reset their MPG clock while moving on the highway on level ground or downhill grade. Not accurate. The best way to do it is the old fashioned way doing it a tank at a time and figuring it manually.
  12. Silicone adhesive. A bit of dielectric grease on the connections too.
  13. No place to zip tie those.. I looked too. I just coated the connector all the way around with silicone and it is very secure.
  14. That's exactly what happened to me too. Later I found out that we didn't need to disconnect the power steering anyway. The locking tab on the clip has broken. I checked everywhere and nobody has replacement connectors either. I just took some silicone adhesive and put it around the connector. If it ever needs to come off, it will too.

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