'17 Sierra

What did you do with your stock wheels? Looks great, BTW.

A tune and a catch can are on different sides of the world. A tune will allow the engine to exceed its specified operating parameters. A catch can is for preventive maintenance. I would have no ethical problem with removing my catch can for fear I'd be denied a warranty claim...which would never happen anyway.

What he's getting at is if the PCV system is iced up, there's no route for the crankcase pressure to escape and it would continue to build up. I find it hard to believe that it popped a rear main though.

Over pressurization caused by ice would be EXTREMELY rare. If you locate the can near the exhaust manifold ie: bracket mounted to the brake booster, it will thaw very quickly in the rare event that it ever froze. What froze anyway? Oil won't freeze. If the condensation froze, that would be in the bottom of the can and wouldn't affect the air flow anyway. And... I don't believe a catch can would ever be the cause of a warranty denial. If a service manager denies a claim because of a catch can, he'll deny a claim for any bogus reason.

True. This subject lends itself to a lot of overthinking. Fact is, they can’t hurt and there’s that much LESS oil going into the intake port.

I agree that it would be nice to see a study on this. I'm a believer, I have an E2 on mine. The question is how much of the oil in the crankcase vapors is actually caught with a catch can. It might look like a lot but that question has never been answered. That milky substance that many seem to think is REALLY bad for the motor, isn't. That is just condensation that's mixed with the oil that hasn't been heated enough to evaporate yet. Moisture won't hurt anything once it's in the combustion chamber and once the oil heats up enough, the condensation just evaporates, burns in the CC and goes down the line and out the pipe.

Were you in Tow-Haul mode maybe?

Damn! How fast were you going?

Why only those selected States? Fortunately mine seems okay...for now anyway with 15,000 miles.

I really like it so far but I haven’t had the Harley loaded yet. No doubt it’ll work out well. There’s a minimum of 5 psi that you’re supposed to run and with 5 psi, it does raise the back about 3/4”. It is a bit firmer than stock with that too but I actually like the ride with 15 psi. I’m so use to 3/4 ton trucks so I guess I feel the stock ride of the 1/2 ton is kind of soft. It’s nice to be able to control the pressure on the fly too. When I load the bike, I’ll let all the air out to keep the back as low as I can then probably will go 30-50 psi is my guess.i researched the crap out of all the brands and Air Lift is the choice. Great quality too. I highly recommend the Ultimate also as it has the jounce bumpers built in so if you bottom out over a bump, you’re protected. Ultimate Plus has steel braided lines.

How did you get your wire to the left side fuse panel? I would like to use that 50 amp spade connector that’s there but I couldn’t find where to access it from under the hood.

I ended up going to the “Ignition Misc.” fuse under the hood with the adapter. It’s a 10 amp fuse there and I connected the pos lead to the hot leg of that fuse connection so that current to the pump won’t go through that fuse. I just did this temporarily to check the system so I haven’t finalized the connection yet. I’m thinking about drilling a hole in the under hood fuse box and using a grommet for the hot wire to seal it up. I’ll check to see if that circuit is cut during cranking though.

After I replied to your post I figured out that it was the left side panel. The in line fuse that came with the pump is a 15 amp which I won't change. Thanks all of you guys....you've been a big help!

That looks like the fuse box under the dash and not by the door hinge, right? There's an inline 15 amp fuse that I'd connect to that terminal. Thanks

Is that on the driver side next to the body mount in the front? Great idea.

I mounted it on the soffit between the frame rail and cross member on the driver side. I like the idea of a relay too. Which RAP circuit did you go to?

I just installed Airlift air bags in the rear and also the on board compressor. I have the hot and the ground going into the engine compartment but I'm not sure where to tap into for power in the underhood fuse box. I definitely want to go to an ignition terminal and not constant. I also can feed the hot wire inside the cab to go to an under dash box if I need to but would rather use the one under the hood. Any help will be appreciated. John

Not the cam. It's the low idle. These motors idle at 400 RPM. Pretty low for a V8 but thanks to the variable valve timing, they can get away with it.

Also if you feel you would like another opinion, hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I bet you’ll find it’s actually higher than what yours reads.

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If his oil level was too low, he’d be getting fluctuations; the gauge would be moving up and down while at a steady RPM. Check engine light would come on and the fuel pump would be shut down to kill the motor. O.P., save yourself a trip to the dealer to be told that it’s fine. You’re good for sure.

For peace of mind you might want to stop at the dealer but I promise you they'll say it's normal. The fact that you're below 40 (closer to 35) at speed and you're below 20 at idle is a pretty good confirmation that your sending unit or your gauge is off. That's why I asked you what it was when it was new. If you're losing main bearings or cam bearings, it would have started out higher when it was new and dropped significantly by now. Mine reads a bit below 40; probably 37 cruising and the secondary stage pulls it past 75 over 3,500 RPM. Have you checked pressure at that RPM? Seriously, you're okay.

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

It's most likely the sending unit

This looks really nice. Installed yourself? From what I read in the Superlift site, it comes with spacers for the diff too so the diff does drop down slightly, right? Stock front shocks?