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  • MIAMI TRUCK LOVERS's YOUR FAVORITE CHERVROLET MOD?

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  1. I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img]
  2. I bought a 2015 Suburban LT with an inoperable Automatic lift gate. When I try to release with a fob, the lights blink. When I try to release from the cab, nothing happens. I know how to set the liftgate to manual before you ask. I found there is no ultra micro relay at position 16 in the rear fusebox. I had a relay that fits, but I realized there seem to be no female pins to receive the relay. Nothing "grabs it" when I put the relay in and it seems to want to fall out. Upon closer look, I cannot see any metal (only plastic) inside the relay receptacle at position 16. Does anyone have a liftgate wiring diagram for a 2015-2019 Suburban LT? How hard is it to pull the rear fusebox? It looks like I have to remove the entire rear driverside luggage side panel. Is the manual correct? Is position 16 ultra micro relay for liftgate? All thoughts and help appreciated.
  3. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  4. Hey everyone, thanks for the add! Got myself a 2016 Canyon SLE. I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas about something I've been looking through forums for before going to a shop. I was driving it to lunch and as I was turning, it completely stalled out on me. Battery was still on but no acceleration as if the engine cut off yet no indicators popped up on the dash. I quickly threw it in park, turned it off completely and restarted it no problem and its still driving smooth with no other issues. There anyone with the same problem before or ideas of what it might be?
  5. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  6. The LED lights in the passenger side headlight of my 2016 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab are sporadically not working. Sometimes the are on, sometimes they aren't. The driver side functions properly all the time. The main light in the center of the headlight works fine all the time. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the whole headlight. When I turned on the truck a few hours after I picked it up from the dealership the LED lights were not working again. Has anyone had or heard about this issue? I'm going to take it back to the dealership, but would love some advice from anyone else that has dealt with this issue. Thanks!
  7. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  8. Reciently the Check Engine Lamp (MIL) came on at start and remainded on with no noticable engine running rough. The error codes were read which indicated 400+ Cold Start error codes on Cylinder No.3. Their are several GM Service Bulletins (PIP5498M, PIP5628E) on this subject V8 on engines from 2000-2022. The bulletins indicate the "Cold Start" causes misfires due to coolant entering the at the liner to deck face casting or the casting line in the intake port of the cylinder head, in my case No. 3. The GM Service bulletins indicate "engine replacement" is needed to fix this problem. I have been very happy about this vehicle however, at 67K miles, this type of issue should NOT be occuring. Apparently GM has know about this problem since 2000-2020 model years described on the attached Service Bulletins. After Two days of MIL being ON, the lamp is now OFF. My question is how can the problem described repair itself and could the diagonistic codes be attributed to another problem? I was under the impression that once the diagonistic code is initiated, the only method of turning OFF the MIL is by resetting or clearing the codes. PIP5498M.pdf PIP5498M.pdf
  9. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  10. Morning/ Afternoon, I have a question about over filling your oil with the newer silverado's. I recently just changed my oil since I got my truck about 3 months ago using the 0W-20 mobil 1. I put in 8 quarts exacly (without filling the filter). let it sit for a second then started her up. Truck ran for a couple of minutes then I shut it off, let it sit for about 10 min and checked the oil. I was not able to read the oil level as accurately as Im used to due to how freaking light the color of the oil lol, so light! I drove it for about a 100 miles, let it sit then checked it again. oil level was right above the hatch line if not right on it so I drained out just a tad to make me feel better then checked again. Now its sitting just above the top dimple but still within the hatch line area. So I guess my question is... Do you think over filling that much would be enough to damage any internals or pump? Any insight is very much appreciated, thank you.
  11. Curious if anyone has experienced the same problem that I'm having. Its a 2016 Silverado with eAssist. When I come to a complete stop the transmission works perfect, I have no issues what so ever.. If I roll up to a stop sign and accelerate without coming to a complete stop, I can feel the motor accelerate and the truck isn't really moving much then all of a sudden, it slams in gear and it fills like the rear end is about to fall out. This happens more frequent if the stop is slightly up hill but generally does it every time. It also happens in stop and go traffic and when I make a tight turn at a slow speed, then accelerate to go. I've read that it could be a matter of changing the trans fluid or, having the computer reprogrammed. I have an appoint with the dealership in two weeks, Id just like to know if others have experienced something similar in the event the dealer gives me some crazy diagnosis like a new transmission. I honestly feel like the problem is a communication problem between the transition and eAssist. Like I said, the truck drives perfect when it comes to a complete stop. Its just stop and go traffic and, slow turns that drive me crazy.
  12. 2016 Silverado 1500 custom Hopefully they fit. 2 inch leveling kit up front. Pre runner bumper. Rears stock. Got -38 mm wheels coming in. 17x9. Shipped today. should look good. much debated topic I didn’t see anything on the size either. I’ll be that guy. It should fit nicely I’m thinking. It’s a 33.8x12.2r17 ordered today. 11/2
  13. It started the day before Christmas Eve - noticeable but minor rpm fluctuations (a few hundred rpms) while driving on the highway after being warmed up. About 5 minutes later, I felt the truck stuttering under light loading moving ~60mph - engine rpms below 1500. I checked the fluid and it was perhaps a tad low (very bottom of 'hot' zone) but was definitely not red/pink. I'm not sure if the previous owner had changed the fluid or not, but it didn't seem it. Over the next day, the shuddering got worse and entirely repeatable. Once the transmission fluid was warm, it would reliably shudder under light loading at slow highway speeds. Occasionally I could get it to do it on a hill at slower speeds too. It never happens under aggressive acceleration/heavy engine loading - this seems to work fine with no issues. I scheduled an appointment at the dealer for next Tuesday, the soonest they had available. In the mean time, I'm hoping to make sure I'm going down the right path and understand my best options. I found PIP5504 (attached) and related Torque Converter Diagnosis SI (attached) and tried to work through them as best as possible without the specialty GM tools. Diagnostics Occurs most obviously when transmission fluid is warm-hot Occurs in M5 mode as well as Drive Occurs both when in V8 and V4 (with and without AFM) Occurs with and without Tow/Haul Mode enabled Occurs with and without grade braking disabled Occurs under light load conditions Does not occur under heavy load conditions Using torque app, a couple misfires (less than 20 after an hour of driving, distributed across all cylinders) are noted, but the instances do not remotely line up with when problems are seen. Using torque app, spikes of TC slip is observed. Using torque app, RPMs go UP when TC slip is observed - these so probably not a misfire Working through the PIP, the symptoms seem to indicate either 1 (fishbite) or 2 (Torque Converter Shudder). I'm not entirely sure what fishbite is, but the service procedures are more or less similar. I don't have a GDS2 tool to command TC engagement, unfortunately, so hopefully the dealer is willing to do this properly. The original PIP5504 (not the C revision) had service procedures included that all seemed to point back to a fluid flush or replacing the torque converter. Knowing that my fluid was pretty black (didn't smell burnt though), I went ahead and got a new transmission filter and performed a fluid flush. 20 Quarts of Valvoline MaxLife fluid were flushed through (not here to debate fluid brands/types - it works with Dex VI and it's what was in stock at the store open on Christmas Eve). Observations Fluid was black Transmission pan magnet had fine metal debris (felt smooth between fingers) on it Photo included - what is a lot? Truck has 178,000 miles on it, this is probably the first time it was opened. One small piece of flexible (rubber?) debris in pan Flow through and out of cooler seemed OK from the start No signs of leaks Changes after Flush Shuddering is much reduced - but still faintly there. Doesn't feel like truck is going to come apart though. RPM fluctuations are still there - and perhaps more noticeable than before (probably because the shudder isn't overshadowing them). Using torque app, Torque Converter Slip is still present when RPMs fluctuate. It appears there is no change to the frequency or amplitude of slip. Questions For those familiar, does the amount of metal on the magnet look typical, or does this look like a sign of an internal failure? Any other ideas for what the issue could be? Any other diagnostic tests that would be helpful to zero in on the root cause? The PIP points to replacing the torque converter as the next step. Is there any way that with all this identified, the transmission itself could be the culprit? Living in MA in the winter without a garage, I'm almost certainly going to have to have the shop perform any replacements and don't want to pay for labor twice. If so, thoughts on a reman unit vs. having a shop repair it? I'm well outside of any warranty and see a lot of people going back and forth with the dealers while they throw parts at a problem. Any tips for reducing bad service and getting it right the first time with them? Am I doing more damage if I keep driving on it for the next week? I'm open to thoughts/suggestions at identifying the cause and next steps. Vehicle Information 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 6-speed auto (6L80, MYC) 5.3L V8 178,000 miles NOT tuned in any way Daily Driver - mostly highway miles Used for occasional light towing (~12,000 miles spent towing an 850 pound teardrop trailer) Generally driven gently (boring, I know) Thanks, -Sean MC-10118277-9999.pdf PIP5504C.pdf Torque Converter Diagnosis SI.pdf
  14. 305 70 17 2 inch spacers front. ordered -38 mm offset wheels pre runner front bumper trimmed inner fender to metal line just ordered a 3 inch rear block lift with new shocks. should be able to pull it off. May throw on a 1.5 inch body lift. not sure how I feel about the NorCal mod. stay tuned!
  15. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  16. Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
  17. I’m looking for a tuner or some sort that will provide me with some additional live data. Not really looking for a tune since I have a powertrain warranty through the dealer I bought from. Unless I can tune it and return it back to factory without the ecm registering that there was a tune on the truck.
  18. I have an issue and have searched the troubleshooting section but haven't found a thread that really matched my issue. I recently purchased a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 (Regular Cab w/ 8' bed) with 55k miles. When I test drove it all the area roads were either rough or under construction so it was hard to determine much via the test drive. The truck looks in great shape and had good service records including a clean Car Fax. Once I had driven on familiar roads I noticed a noise that I'm now trying to diagnose and fix. I'm not sure how to describe it but I only hear it when driving (at all speeds). I hear whether or not I'm towing. The noise doesn't get louder with speed and I don't hear it at idle. The dealer had installed new tires (General Grabber) on the existing base 18" wheels. The ride was rougher than I thought it should be and I knew the torsion bars had been cranked. I think it is back to or close to the original ride height and it improved the ride but I still hear the noise. I know that it's not wind related because other people can hear it but it's not so loud that everyone turns and looks at the truck as it passes. I've looked at everything I can think of but don't find an external source. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
  19. So I have a 2016 Sierra. No issues till yesterday when I went to start after running into a store. I got one click then nothing. All the different systems service warnings come on display when I turn key. I recharged battery to make sure it was good. I jumped the starter relay to make sure it wasn't starter. It turns over great with or without the key on. Having all the systems service warning coming on seems the most confusing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
  20. Recently I noticed my navigation not working in my 2016 Sierra Denali. The GPS has a red X over it. I have done some research and most people are saying the green onstar light on the rearview mirror turned red when they had an issue. Mine is still lit green but no GPS signal. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
  21. Has anybody had this happen to their grill? The plastic looks like it melted, but were the paint is....
  22. Just wondering if theres much rubbing with 33s that are 11.5 wide.
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