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Found 192 results

  1. Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
  2. I just purchased my second Chevy Colorado and I am running into an issue. The remote start won't work. The doors lock, when I hold down the remote start button the lights flash but nothing else. No engine light. Hood is closed tight. Not in valet mode batteries good. I took it to the dealer today and after 3 hours of waiting they said it was probably the main computer. Granted this is with them saying they haven't even looked at it yet. This service department has its own issues. They are wanting to have me bring it back later for diagnostics and maybe 5-7 days if it needs a new CPU. Is their any thoughts on how this could be a simple thing I can look at before wasting more of my time with the service department?
  3. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  4. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  5. Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess.
  6. Bought end of July 2017. 2016 Silverado Custom 4wd Double Cab Standard Bed with 18500 miles. It came with 20% tints and 20" chrome rims. I almost instantly removed the front valence. The next few posts (all todays date) are going to be out of order since I'm doing this thread 1 year into owning it.
  7. Is anyone aware of what is required to install factory fog lights into a 2016 & up Base level Sierra 1500 that didn't have them from factory? Will any scrap of wiring be present? The switch is not there... but can one order a switch, the lights and slap it in? Can the BCM be flashed by a dealership if required? I bought an el cheapo that doesn't have fog lights and the blank inserts drive me bonkers already... so I WILL be filling them in with factory fog lights... it would just be nice to know if I can have them work like factory or not. Otherwise I'll wire them up like jobbers and have a jobber switch. Thanks
  8. I’m trying to order some aftermarket tail lights for my 2016 Silverado z71 Ltz. But almost all the lights I click on say not compatible with 2016 Ltz yet the same lights are compatible for every other model. From what I gather its because my truck has “factory led tail lights”. Can someone please explain to me the difference between my tail lights and 2016 Silverado Lt tail lights? Do I have factory led tail lights? I just don’t know the deference between the two and if I have the “led tail light” or not.
  9. Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe.
  10. Just looking to put a cold air intake on my truck, curious of whats the best brand out there.
  11. Does anyone know how to turn off the seatbelt chime in a 2016 GMC Sierra truck. and please don't say buckle your seat belt. Thanks.
  12. Hey, so I am trying to replace the speaker wire in my rear door speakers and I cannot get the panel off that is on the column between the front door and rear door. This column panel has the speaker wires running up it into my rear door. How do I remove the panel without breaking the little red Clips inside? Thanks, Hunter
  13. Dealership sold me hail damaged truck

    Bought a 2017 Chervrolet Silverado crew cab 4wd Lt from Gateway Chevrolet in Avondale, Arizona. It only had 2800 miles when I bought it, certified preowned. This was back in November 2017, few months ago I realized the truck had about a dozen dime sized dents throughout the roof, very slight dents but definitely there. It infuriates me how they didn't disclose this to me, I bought the truck for an unreasonably expensive price considering it had dents on the roof. It angers me because The truck cost me 38,000 dollars and they didn't disclose dents on the roof, body damage!!! it will cost me nearly a thousand dollars to repair. I called Chevrolet and of course there is nothing they will do about it. I called the dealership and I haven't even been able to get through to a person in charge, they keep on giving me the run around. I am so pissed, I can't believe Chevrolet did this to me, I feel lied to I decided to buy Chevrolet because of the reputation it has but am now wishing I would have bought a ford instead.
  14. About an hour into my two hour drive tonight I noticed the lane keep assist button was no longer illuminated so i pressed it and got the message "lane keep assist system unavailable." I tried cleaning in front of the camera behind the rearview mirror and turning the truck off and back on. I could not get it to work. I am new to this forum and was hoping someone would have some advice on what to do. This is a 2016 sierra denali 1500 with approx 50k miles so of course it is out of warranty.
  15. Ok so this is my first post on hear but im not new to this place ive used this forum thousands of times in the past as I am only 18years old i started off in a 03 gmc 1500 short bed reg cab stick shift, but up here in mass 2wd wasnt gonna cut it so after that I had a trailblazer for the past year and now Ive been lucky enough to get back into trucks with my new 1500 that i'm leasing, its an LT Z71 with 4wd and the 5.3. Im perfectly happy with how the trukc is as of now but I definitely want/"need' it to be leveled as my whole family Cousins, aunts, uncles, father, and mother have atleast a leveling kit or just a beefy vehicle as now im the only one without some ground clearance, but i dont know which leveling kit is the best choice as i want to stay under 3 inches. So if anyone could help me it would be great id like to know the best kits under a few categories. 1-Best ride. 2-Best bang for your buck. 3- Eastiest install. 4- Best offroad capability. 5- The best kit in general. I have been told the Bilstien 510 is a great choice but before i pull any triggers i'd like to know all my options as I won't be getting the kit within a month or two as the truck only has 900 miles. Thank you
  16. Just wondering if theres much rubbing with 33s that are 11.5 wide.
  17. Yesterday I had to run to Phoenix and back for work supplies. My company truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 long-wheel-base 2wd with 5.3L V8 (former Uhaul truck). I used cruise control, I meticulously went the speed limit, and I used the air conditioning and stereo during the trip. More than half of the trip I was hauling over 1500 lbs in the bed. By the time I returned the dash was telling me about 25 mpg for the round trip. Manual calculations at the pump said 23.49 mpg. In my opinion that's very good. Here's the video:
  18. Two easy ways to turn off the engine auto start system in the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 since they do not give you an off switch here's the video link let me know if you have any questions
  19. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  20. Has anybody had this happen to their grill? The plastic looks like it melted, but were the paint is....
  21. I have a 2016 Silverado LT2 and do have the new style projector bulbs and LED running light strips in the reworked front end vs the 2015 style... but I like LED lights more than bulbs. Anyone have the smarts to have looked into it to know if the LTZ lights would plug and play into an LT? The LTZ has LED front signal lights and tail lights where the LT has bulbs. Not saying I will do it, but it would be nice to know if it's possible so my truck would have the same look as an LTZ. Thanks
  22. Hello everyone, I just purchased 2016 1500 and the wagon symbol is missing for my tow haul. Does anyone have any idea of where I can get a replacement? thanks, I attached a pic of the symbol that I need
  23. Winjet Taillights

    Selling these Winjet taillights from my '15 Silverado as I purchased a '17 Silverado and they already have LED. These are 6 months old in excellent condition. All parts come with except you will need 3M double-sided tape if you don't want to use the screws to mount. Units do NOT come with LED reverse lights, those are sold separately. Asking $225 + the ride to your door in original box. Stock Picture: Picture before boxing up: In use pictures:
  24. I know a lot of people are running black rims on white trucks and blacked out black trucks and color matching etc. I decided to go old school chrome (lux) look. I made this happen on the front end by swapping out my black front bumper skid shield with the denali chrome one. I also as some of you may know, whited out my badges with reflective vinyle (see profile pic) and decided on chrome rims, exception, these rims are powder coated and flashed for the exact same look as chrome except they clean up just like paint. soap and water and wax. So this may not be for all but it takes me back a bit while still be modern. By the way, to remove this and replace. off comes the under grill molding, the radiator shroud, the front grill, the front bumper, remove both bumper backing plates remove and replace skid plate. i followed these instructions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do4lHsbydM
  25. Hello all. I am about to purchase a new vehicle and am considering a 2014-2016 silverado 1500. Im wondering if anyone here has any of these years that has put a lot of kms on it. I wondering how reliable they are and what problems if any you have ran into with them. The reason I'm asking is because I purchased a subscription to Consumer Reports and Reliability was only a 2/5 and overall satisfaction was a 3/5. I just paid off a 2011 F150 a year ago and now it has a stretched timing chain @ 140k. I really don't want to buy a piece of shit again. Also, the dealership gave me a 2014 1500 to try out for a few days and i really loved the truck except for one thing. In comparison to my F150 it was an extremely rough ride. It seems like every dam bump on the highway was pretty jarring. Even my lady friend noticed it clearly and she doesn't give a shit about anything when it comes to vehicles. I've heard gm/chevy ride a little stiffer but this seemed pretty bad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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