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Drives

  1. 305 70 17 2 inch spacers front. ordered -38 mm offset wheels pre runner front bumper trimmed inner fender to metal line just ordered a 3 inch rear block lift with new shocks. should be able to pull it off. May throw on a 1.5 inch body lift. not sure how I feel about the NorCal mod. stay tuned!
  2. 2016 Silverado 1500 custom Hopefully they fit. 2 inch leveling kit up front. Pre runner bumper. Rears stock. Got -38 mm wheels coming in. 17x9. Shipped today. should look good. much debated topic I didn’t see anything on the size either. I’ll be that guy. It should fit nicely I’m thinking. It’s a 33.8x12.2r17 ordered today. 11/2
  3. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  4. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  5. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  6. Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
  7. I’m looking for a tuner or some sort that will provide me with some additional live data. Not really looking for a tune since I have a powertrain warranty through the dealer I bought from. Unless I can tune it and return it back to factory without the ecm registering that there was a tune on the truck.
  8. I have an issue and have searched the troubleshooting section but haven't found a thread that really matched my issue. I recently purchased a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 (Regular Cab w/ 8' bed) with 55k miles. When I test drove it all the area roads were either rough or under construction so it was hard to determine much via the test drive. The truck looks in great shape and had good service records including a clean Car Fax. Once I had driven on familiar roads I noticed a noise that I'm now trying to diagnose and fix. I'm not sure how to describe it but I only hear it when driving (at all speeds). I hear whether or not I'm towing. The noise doesn't get louder with speed and I don't hear it at idle. The dealer had installed new tires (General Grabber) on the existing base 18" wheels. The ride was rougher than I thought it should be and I knew the torsion bars had been cranked. I think it is back to or close to the original ride height and it improved the ride but I still hear the noise. I know that it's not wind related because other people can hear it but it's not so loud that everyone turns and looks at the truck as it passes. I've looked at everything I can think of but don't find an external source. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
  9. So I have a 2016 Sierra. No issues till yesterday when I went to start after running into a store. I got one click then nothing. All the different systems service warnings come on display when I turn key. I recharged battery to make sure it was good. I jumped the starter relay to make sure it wasn't starter. It turns over great with or without the key on. Having all the systems service warning coming on seems the most confusing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
  10. Recently I noticed my navigation not working in my 2016 Sierra Denali. The GPS has a red X over it. I have done some research and most people are saying the green onstar light on the rearview mirror turned red when they had an issue. Mine is still lit green but no GPS signal. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
  11. Has anybody had this happen to their grill? The plastic looks like it melted, but were the paint is....
  12. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  13. Just wondering if theres much rubbing with 33s that are 11.5 wide.
  14. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  15. The LED lights in the passenger side headlight of my 2016 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab are sporadically not working. Sometimes the are on, sometimes they aren't. The driver side functions properly all the time. The main light in the center of the headlight works fine all the time. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the whole headlight. When I turned on the truck a few hours after I picked it up from the dealership the LED lights were not working again. Has anyone had or heard about this issue? I'm going to take it back to the dealership, but would love some advice from anyone else that has dealt with this issue. Thanks!
  16. Does anyone know how to turn off the seatbelt chime in a 2016 GMC Sierra truck. and please don't say buckle your seat belt. Thanks.
  17. Hey everyone, thanks for the add! Got myself a 2016 Canyon SLE. I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas about something I've been looking through forums for before going to a shop. I was driving it to lunch and as I was turning, it completely stalled out on me. Battery was still on but no acceleration as if the engine cut off yet no indicators popped up on the dash. I quickly threw it in park, turned it off completely and restarted it no problem and its still driving smooth with no other issues. There anyone with the same problem before or ideas of what it might be?
  18. Looking to buy a LTZ grill (Picture Shown Below) been looking through eBay and no luck. Got a 16 Silverado and getting tired of the black plastic.
  19. Trying to install an output converter for a sub install. through reading in the other threads they talk about a white blue/black wire for the right speaker i don't seem to have those wires it is a non bose system
  20. So I just got a 2014 Sierra SLT, and I'm wondering, is it compatible with the 2016 Sierra Denali? I have access to one for parts and was hoping if someone could tell me if it's even possible to. Body on the 16 is gone, but the trans and engine and some of the interior is still usable.
  21. All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
  22. New to this site, I have a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ I purchased and ordered the 2.5in front Motofab levelling kit. Wondering what size tire I can fit without any rubbing issues? Have 20in stock chev wheels on it right now, may upgrade to fuel wheels with 0mm offset 20x9. Can I run a 33x12.5x20 or will the width cause me to rub on stock wheels? Any help would be appreciated!
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