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Drives

Found 13 results

  1. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  2. here are some picture and videos of how i installed my upfitter aux switches to my 2017 silverado Texas edition truck which DID NOT com with them nor does it have the relays fuses or switch wires in the harness. keep in mind the switches are GROUND or NEGATIVE switching. which means they DO NOT HAVE 12v ON THEM. DO NOT PUT 12V ON THE WIRES YOUR ABOUT TO INSTALL. i had to get a new connector from a crashed truck in a junk yard which i then pulled 4 of the pins and wires out of to install into my trucks harness plug for the upfitter switch. once i did that it was just a simple act of making a short extension wire from those 4 wires coming from the harness plug to go to the driver kick panel where im going to locate the relays for the devises i want to control. you will see the harness plug and wires where i put them. and you will see the JST plug i used to connect the 4 wires to the extension wire to run to my relays. will also upload videos soon.
  3. I've searched the forum but found no useful information. I just purchased a 19999 Silverado 1500. The truck came with no keyless entry remotes. The power door locks do not work at all. When I push the lock/unlock button I can here a clicking inside the doors the first time I push it. All subsequent pushes of the button result in no noise. The locks operate easily manually and with the key. What I've tried so far: 1. checked and tested all the fuses and relays in the fuse panel at the end of the drivers side dash. All the fuses and relays are good. Does anyone have any other ideas about what to check before I rip off both door panels and replace the actuators?
  4. Shorted out my battery jumping a piece of equipment. Engine shut off right away. Now I only have power to locks and lighting. Can’t find a blown fuse. Is there a main fuse on these anymore?
  5. This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
  6. Has anyone added an additional fuse block to their truck? I have seen some of the Jeep guys add a waterproof fuse/relay box under the hood to avoid having all of their LED and other accessory wires all jumbled up on the positive battery terminal. I want to be able to add more lights and accessories to my truck, but I don't want to have a mess of wires all over the battery. I'm thinking the empty battery location on the right side of the engine bay would be a good spot for an additional fuse/relay box. Anybody have experience in doing this? Please post pictures and include your product name and where you bought it from. Thanks guys!
  7. I have a 2006 Silverado vortec max I recently mounted new fog lamps and while I was driving the fog lamps just stopped working. When I press the button the running lights in the front still come on just the fog lamps won't. The fuses look good just not sure what I should be looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you in advance.
  8. Having troubles splicing in my 2 per side resistors for the led signals I put in. I hooked them up one side inline with black (ground) and other side to blue/white (signal). The turn signals work as the should blinking at normal rate. My issue now is that the parking/running lights do not work, just the signals work. It's actually weird because just one led works as parking light my lower turn led on passenger side works as a parking/running light and signal as it supposed too, but the top bulb and both driver sides only work as signals. If that makes sense I'm going to attach a picture. Please help I have the lights and grill out and trying to find out what I'm doing wrong before reinstall obviously. I have a total of 4 led bulbs and 4 6ohm 50watt resistors.
  9. I am experiencing when I turn the key in the ignition, I get nothing, if a continue to try to start turning the key eventually it starts. Any ideas, all of the events seem to be abnormal from how the truck was running days ago. I replaced the two batteries in January 2015, highest cold cranking amps. 1999 GMC Sierra Quad Cab 2500 SLT 7.4 vortec 454. Voltage seems to be cahrging fine.
  10. I have a 2015 Sierra 2500HD, 4x4, 6.6L Diesel, Crew Cab SLT. I have been rebuilding the front portion of the bodywork due to collision damage. I have it pretty much back together, but it has a couple of electrical quirks that I cannot seem to diagnose. I would appreciate any help y'all can provide. First of all, anytime the battery(s) are connected, the brake lights stay on. All of them. Two bulbs on each side, and the high-third light. Even when the key is out, the doors are closed, and the truck is locked/armed. This does not have any effect on headlights. I can turn those on/off normally. When I turn on running lights, the small marker lights on the side of the taillight housing come on as they are supposed to, and the 2 main bulbs go brighter (or the second filament turns on), as they are supposed to. This seems like a pretty simple relay issue, or a wire being crossed somewhere. Trouble is, I cannot find anything labeled anything like "Brake Light" in any of the 3 fuse panels (under hood and dash side panels). I see headlights, turn signals, etc, but nothing for brake lights. Where can I find the relay for the brake lights? Or, does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows the path of that circuit so I can check it for shorts? The second problem is bigger, but probably easier to diagnose. The damn thing won't crank at all... The On/Acc position on the switch lights everything up normally, but when you crank the key, the instrument panel goes completely dark. When I removed the ECM to replace the broken bracket I found a small dent in the back cover. It didn't look big enough to cause internal damage, but maybe it was. I also noticed that the 30A fuse in the underhood fuse box was burned out for the ECM power supply. Just another indicator that there was a major short in there somewhere. I'm just hoping that whatever damage caused that didn't also burn out other ignition components... I am now trying to find a replacement ECM, which is a 2015-specific part. Its visible from ACDelco, but is apparently on permanent backorder... Anybody have an idea for where I can find an ECM for this year? Or whether I can use the ECM from a 2014 LML on my truck?
  11. Can anyone tell me where to find the headlight relays are located on a 2008 Silverado 1500? Thanks!
  12. From the album: Random

    A set of headlamp relay boards I made up to allow an SLE truck to use SLT headlamps.

    © 2015 phydiux

  13. I have am '05 gmc envoy. The low beams went out a couple of weeks ago so i replaced the relay. that fixed the problem. Now the low beams are out again. i replaced the relay again but this time it didnt work. I notice there is an odor in the fuse block. The relay smells burnt. Any ideas? i still have no low beams but all others lights etc seem to be fine. No codes.
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