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I lost all power going about 45 mph Last night after I let off the gas to make a slight right curve and when I pressed the gas again. My gauges reset and there was a message on the cluster screen that said “SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND PRESS START AGAIN” (it may or may not have said “AGAIN”). I pulled over and while still in Drive with the brake pressed, I pushed Start/Stop and the entire vehicle reset. The ignition clicked nonstop for awhile but the engine did not turn over. While waiting for AAA, I disconnected my Pulsar LT and tried to start it, but got the same nonstop clicking. I scanned it and got a code reading: “P16A7: Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit 2”. ANY and ALL feedback is welcomed. 2019 (late/new model) GMC Sierra SLT 5.3L Crew Cab Short Bed ~115k mi if that matters.

I couldn't find this anywhere in the forum, pardon if I missed it. I drive a 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 and I left my key in the ignition overnight. It was NOT in 'on' or 'acc', just left inserted into the ignition. I shut the truck off in the garage after getting home and got distracted by my kids, forgetting the key was still in. Next morning all it did was click when I turned the key, all lights still worked. Figured leaving it in all night killed the battery so I tried a jump (no go) then charged it with a battery charger. Even with a fully charged battery it still didn't start. Figured since the battery is 5 years old now I may have killed it off, so I bought a new battery and installed it...only to still have no start. I'm not getting any codes, so this one has left me scratching my head. Is there a security feature I'm not aware of? Could the starter have gone from trying to start it up so many times? Keep in mind I have not had any starting or battery issues. This only happened after leaving the key inserted in the ignition overnight. I also haven't installed any new lights, electronics, etc.

Looking for some advise on what to try next to fix an unknown issue with my 2015 Sierra. 190k Miles L83. New transmission at 140k. A couple months ago I had a studder while the engine was put underload at low RPM in high gears. Mostly only noticeable with highway driving. Feels like the ignition kicks out for a split second truck jerks hard then I have to let out of it and downshift to high RPM where engine is not under as much load. The issue has been slowly getting worse and happening at less and less load. I can hear an audible breakup coming from the engine bay and exhaust notes. I started small and replaced plugs and wires, ran a can of seafoam through a 1/4 of a tank, ran seafoam in oil for 30 minutes at idle, then did an oil change with a quart of marvel and ran that for another 30 in hopes to clear a possible stuck DOD lifter. All with no changes. I reached out to a GM tech who told me its likely a stuck DOD lifter so I went ahead and replaced all the lifters and cleaned up in carbon on the injectors while I was in there. Still not changes. I am thinking the only logical next step is to replace the coils because it sounds like a ignition issue. But before I go throwing more money at this I would like to see if anyone has any other input. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I have a problem I can't solve and I'm hoping someone here can help. Last night I was driving my 2011 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.3L and pulled into a gas station. When I got back in the truck I turned the key to the start position but nothing happened besides the dash going black. I didn't hear the starter click and I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on. So far here's what I've done: Tried to jump the car, no success. Took the battery to get tested and it's fine. Switched the relays around to see if something else would quit working and the truck would start, but same outcome. I jumped the two big connectors on the back of the starter and the starter turned over, but the truck never started it actually kept turning even with the power off and didn't stop until I disconnected the battery I replaced the battery in the remote but this didn't fix anything. I thought it might be anti-theft related but the the light on the dash isn't on for the alarm and the truck locks and unlocks with the remote. I connected a scanner to it and am able to see the ecm getting an ignition signal when I turn the key to start Through the scanner I can see that the ECM recognizes that the transmission is in park/neutral Has anyone ran into this before? Is there anything else that would prevent it from starting and cause a no crank, no fuel, no start issue that I need to check? The monitor I'm using has the ability to check basically any sensor value. Thanks!

I recently purchased a 2005 Silverado 1500 and it came with two keys (both well used) that appear to be perfectly identical. However, one of them always turns the ignition with no issues and one of them turns the ignition only after wiggling it for several seconds. There must be some imperceptible difference between the keys but I'm trying to decide if it's more likely a bad key or an ignition tumbler that's at the end of its life. I know they're both pretty cheap fixes but I was wondering if anyone has any insight

2001 gmc HD 6.6 Have had no issues prior to this, I have 173 000 on this truck. 92 degree day. Drove to dump today, turned off, emptied trash, finished and started it back up then drove to the gas station. Turned it off for about 15 minutes, came back out of store, turned it on, started back up then immediately died. Tried to turn it on again and it did not turn over. My dash came on, my gauges worked and it shifted into neutral no issue. Just wouldnt turn over, wouldnt even click. My only light that did not come on on the dash was my WAIT TO START icon for the glow bulbs. Had to have it towed home. Let it sit about 40 min, my husband went out to try it but used the spare key and started up no issue. Twice. No delay in turn over. I went and tried with both 3x each and it started up also, but took longer to actually start. Last oil and fuel filter change less than 1000 miles ago. Batteries 6.months old. I havent started looking at relays or fuses. What would be the difference between symptoms and trouble shooting a bad ignition switch versus a bad starter? Any help appreciated.