Yes, you add coolant to the surge tank. The instructions can be found starting on page 5-14 of the 1999 Silverado owner's manual. https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/1999/chevrolet/silverado_1500/1999_chevrolet_silverado_owners.pdf
Yeah, that seems to be the consensus, oh well. You're right, 4wd with the G80 is pretty capable but I regularly encounter some pretty slick ice in Anchorage here. I'm running Wildpeak AT3W (3 peak snowflake rated) tires and I regularly spin in 4wd getting going at intersections. The problem is that cars sit at the intersection and melt the packed snow and it turns into glare ice. It is what it is though
My front differential is looking like it will need a rebuild sooner rather than later. I've done some preliminary research and it appears that there's an Eaton Truetrac (912A557) compatible with this application. Keeping in mind that I live in Alaska and the roads are covered in snow/ice for about half the year, is it worth the trouble?
Personally I would probably do a good AFM delete kit on the 5.3. Swapping the motor means a new ECM and all that jazz which is a much much bigger job. The 5.3 is a pretty reliable engine other than the AFM system. Keep in mind that most real high power cams also require a torque converter though. I've heard good things about the TSP Stage 2 Truck Cam (+60HP, +30Tq) which is designed to keep your torque converter. On a related note, you can totally do a cam and AFM delete yourself if you have the interest.
I've attached the build sheet for my truck. Also, I just had my diff cover off last week and saw the locking palls. Fortunately my rear is in great shape, I'm more concerned with the front and potentially upgrading to a Truetrac. 2GCEK13T451341568 - 2005 Silverado (4).PDF
Well the G80 is the RPO for the rear differential. Also, the G80 is an automatic locking diff which is technically not a posi. A posi uses clutches and the G80 using spring loaded palls that engage at a certain rotational speed.
Thanks, I appreciate your help. Next question: I replaced the fluid in my front diff recently and the old fluid was all kinds of bad (ice, water, bubbles, glitter). There is also some noise that seems to be coming from there even in 2wd and both axle seals are starting to weep so I'm expecting to need to do or hire out some work in the near future. What's your opinion on upgrading to a Truetrac (912A557) front vs stock replacement?
Just for future reference: I decided to replace the fluids on my differentials and transfer case even though they weren't "expired" and the results are somewhat illuminating. The rear diff was 10/10, the fluid in the transfer case was a bit dark but alright, but I went to do the front fluid and poof: aerated fluid with ice and water chunks. Don't know when or how that happened but that's probably the source of the noise I'm thinking. New fluid and the noise is quieter but still there. I'm now expecting to do a rebuild on that soonish. Side note: how much lateral deflection is normal on the rear output shaft of the transfer case? I was testing the universal joints (all good) and I found that I could move the aforementioned shaft more than I expected.
Update: I installed my new OEM wiper blades and frames last night and right on cue we got a few inches of snow this morning. They're definitely better but the problem is not totally fixed. Instead of 2-3 inches that doesn't make contact with the glass, it's now like .5-.75 inches. Do I need to replace the arm(s)? Also, why would GM sell these trucks with wiper arms that don't have an "up" position?
It sounds to me like he installed the lower shaft with the head of the bolt facing the ground when the wheel is straight. If that's the case, I would recommend turning the steering wheel 180 degrees before you secure it to detach the steering shaft. You don't have to have the wheels straight, you just don't want to move them while the shaft is uninstalled.
I am from Alaska. When I did the hubs I also did all new front brakes with Bosch rotors and good pads. It's possible that something went wrong with that but I was thinking that the noise would change when the brakes are applied if that was the culprit. The transmission is also brand new from a reputable shop. The noise only goes away under acceleration. I hope it's not the transfer case.
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