Search the Community

Hi there, I just put an AFE Power Momentum HD cold air intake on my 2020 Sierra 2500 AT4 and since I did that I have a pop-up that says "Check Engine Air Filter System" every time that I start the truck. When I scroll on the info page to "Air Filter Life" option it says "Check System". Does anyone know how to disable the filter life so that I do not receive these? Thanks

Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4

2014 Sierra 5.3 My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again. Blower motor seems to be fine. While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving. Engine mounts looks solid.

So iv had this issue for awhile now, at first the check engine light would only come on when it was cold outside, I would clear it and it would be fine till the next temp drop and would never come on during the summer. Last week i changed the fuse and its been fine, but Now it's back, I also changed the 02 sensor. I would say it's just the cat going out and change that but with the p0054 code saying it's the o2 sensor heater that makes me think the cat is fine but I don't know what commands the heater to turn on and what the 02 sensor talks to to say the heater isn't working. I'm really hoping it isn't wiring and it's just some module that is working properly. Idk how it is on trucks but I know on planes you can have a single small fault caused my a single module that controls multiple systems

Alright. So the P0301 code came on recently. Went out there and when I was inspecting the truck on cylinder 1 I noticed the plug was just loose by about a thread or two. I pulled the plug cleaned it and put it back in. Still got the miss while sitting at idle, so I swapped cylinder 1 and 5, and no change. Only thing I didn’t change on the two cylinders is change their spark plugs and coil with one another. I just had a brand new fuel pump, new fuel lines, and filter put in it a month ago and am wondering if that number 1 injector might be clogged or going out. I haven’t pulled it yet, that was going to be my last ditch effort was to pull that and see if maybe the injector had gotten dirty from the new pump since it now is able to push an adequate amount of fuel unlike before because the lines were rusted since this is the flex fuel and the stupid neck on the fuel pump was rusted. What’s your thoughts? I don’t have my autel to see if dig into it deeper, since I loaned it out to a buddy who’s now out of town.

Hey guys, I have a problem I can't solve and I'm hoping someone here can help. Last night I was driving my 2011 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.3L and pulled into a gas station. When I got back in the truck I turned the key to the start position but nothing happened besides the dash going black. I didn't hear the starter click and I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on. So far here's what I've done: Tried to jump the car, no success. Took the battery to get tested and it's fine. Switched the relays around to see if something else would quit working and the truck would start, but same outcome. I jumped the two big connectors on the back of the starter and the starter turned over, but the truck never started it actually kept turning even with the power off and didn't stop until I disconnected the battery I replaced the battery in the remote but this didn't fix anything. I thought it might be anti-theft related but the the light on the dash isn't on for the alarm and the truck locks and unlocks with the remote. I connected a scanner to it and am able to see the ecm getting an ignition signal when I turn the key to start Through the scanner I can see that the ECM recognizes that the transmission is in park/neutral Has anyone ran into this before? Is there anything else that would prevent it from starting and cause a no crank, no fuel, no start issue that I need to check? The monitor I'm using has the ability to check basically any sensor value. Thanks!