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Found 16 results

  1. Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4
  2. Hi there, I just put an AFE Power Momentum HD cold air intake on my 2020 Sierra 2500 AT4 and since I did that I have a pop-up that says "Check Engine Air Filter System" every time that I start the truck. When I scroll on the info page to "Air Filter Life" option it says "Check System". Does anyone know how to disable the filter life so that I do not receive these? Thanks
  3. 2014 Sierra 5.3 My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again. Blower motor seems to be fine. While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving. Engine mounts looks solid.
  4. So iv had this issue for awhile now, at first the check engine light would only come on when it was cold outside, I would clear it and it would be fine till the next temp drop and would never come on during the summer. Last week i changed the fuse and its been fine, but Now it's back, I also changed the 02 sensor. I would say it's just the cat going out and change that but with the p0054 code saying it's the o2 sensor heater that makes me think the cat is fine but I don't know what commands the heater to turn on and what the 02 sensor talks to to say the heater isn't working. I'm really hoping it isn't wiring and it's just some module that is working properly. Idk how it is on trucks but I know on planes you can have a single small fault caused my a single module that controls multiple systems
  5. Alright. So the P0301 code came on recently. Went out there and when I was inspecting the truck on cylinder 1 I noticed the plug was just loose by about a thread or two. I pulled the plug cleaned it and put it back in. Still got the miss while sitting at idle, so I swapped cylinder 1 and 5, and no change. Only thing I didn’t change on the two cylinders is change their spark plugs and coil with one another. I just had a brand new fuel pump, new fuel lines, and filter put in it a month ago and am wondering if that number 1 injector might be clogged or going out. I haven’t pulled it yet, that was going to be my last ditch effort was to pull that and see if maybe the injector had gotten dirty from the new pump since it now is able to push an adequate amount of fuel unlike before because the lines were rusted since this is the flex fuel and the stupid neck on the fuel pump was rusted. What’s your thoughts? I don’t have my autel to see if dig into it deeper, since I loaned it out to a buddy who’s now out of town.
  6. Hey guys, I have a problem I can't solve and I'm hoping someone here can help. Last night I was driving my 2011 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.3L and pulled into a gas station. When I got back in the truck I turned the key to the start position but nothing happened besides the dash going black. I didn't hear the starter click and I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on. So far here's what I've done: Tried to jump the car, no success. Took the battery to get tested and it's fine. Switched the relays around to see if something else would quit working and the truck would start, but same outcome. I jumped the two big connectors on the back of the starter and the starter turned over, but the truck never started it actually kept turning even with the power off and didn't stop until I disconnected the battery I replaced the battery in the remote but this didn't fix anything. I thought it might be anti-theft related but the the light on the dash isn't on for the alarm and the truck locks and unlocks with the remote. I connected a scanner to it and am able to see the ecm getting an ignition signal when I turn the key to start Through the scanner I can see that the ECM recognizes that the transmission is in park/neutral Has anyone ran into this before? Is there anything else that would prevent it from starting and cause a no crank, no fuel, no start issue that I need to check? The monitor I'm using has the ability to check basically any sensor value. Thanks!
  7. Wife took the truck to get new tires and she knocked it into "auto 4wd" and I noticed it a day after.. Now it has a rough sound and feel coming from the back.. Where do I start?
  8. I have the 2019 Sierra Denali which has the Rear Camera Mirror (RCM). My issue is that the camera used for this view is located above the window on the rear of the cab. The problem with this is that if my rear view is blocked by cargo in the rear it also blocks the view of the camera being used making the view useless. In my case, a much better view would be achieved if the backup camera located on the tailgate could be used. Does anyone know of a way to accomplish this?
  9. I turn my key and I have no dash lights and not enough power to even unlock the door locks, so I replaced the battery and the ignition switch. Same issue, I search the ground wire from the battery terminal and they seem to be connected fine. Does anyone have any answers to this problem ? I have turned the key and it will work just fine but once I turn key off it happens again so it comes and goes.
  10. Hello. I had problems with my heated seat and had to change the Master Door Window switch on the driver side. when i took the old switch out the the door chime was working. after a few moments it stopped working. the next day i got the new switch and installed it and the only thing it would turn on was the driver window. Locks didnt work from that door, passenger windows dont work from that door. i unhooked the battery for a few moments to see if it would fix it. Now im getting warning on my screen as in, service 4 wheel drive, service tire monitoring system, hood open (even though its closed) My seat wont move on the driver side.Blinkers dont work, Break lights stay on. i can turn the key on and the lights will come on but the switch to turn them off and to parking dont work they just stay on. Fog lights dont work. FOB key wont work. I have no clue what happened. anyone have any guidance on this? 2011 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ 5.3L V8 Crew Cab
  11. My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far: I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement. Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox. That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing. I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated. I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't. One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there. The truck has 80k miles and is a V6. Thank you.
  12. Hey y'all, having issues with my 2015 Silverado. Towards the end of a 300+ mile road trip my truck's engine shut off while stopped at the turnoff of an exit. I restarted it drove to a gas station and then started it again to go home with no more issues. In the morning I had a hard start then drove to my job site and while I was waiting to go in parked in my parking spot the engine shut off again so I restarted it again. It ran about 5 minutes then shut off again. When i went to restart it my check engine light popped on, dash reads reduced engine power, and it will crank not start. I popped on my code reader and I am showing three codes p1682, p0650, and p062b. I have 113k miles. Does anyone have any ideas????
  13. Hello guys, and gals I recently ran into a trouble with my truck, ive been getting a parasitic drain and cant seem to find whats draining the battery. I already tried unplugging all the fuses 1 by 1 and even took the stock radio out but there still seems to be a parasitic drain. If u got any idead im willing to to hear them out
  14. My buddy just got a 2017 Sierra SLT Z71 after his old truck died. The Sierra has a 4" Rancho lift kit on it that the previous owner had installed. To keep a long story short, my buddy & I drove to the shop where his old truck was located to pick it up as they were able to make it driveable. He drove his old truck back & I followed him in the Sierra. He lives on a farm with narrow dirt roads & I had to move over to the far left of the road as there was a tractor going in the opposite direction. I hit a roughly 7" deep pothole that I couldn't see as there was grass around it while trying to get around the tractor. After arriving at my buddy's house we both noticed the left front wheel grinding on the well when I turned in, & also that the truck is a little more than 2" lower on the left side than the oppsosite side (Please see pictures, I've uploaded 2 of the side that is lower). My biggest concern is that after spending nearly 2 hours looking over everything, we can't locate the reason for the leaning. Since I was driving it I'm going to have to pay for it, & neither of us are mechanics, so I would greatly appreciate any information as to what the issue could be, if anyone in here has experienced the same thing & what was needed to fix it, etc. Sorry for the long post, I'm new to this. *Edit* After very carefully going over the undercarriage pictured below we discovered a crack in the control arm (albeit a small one) & also discovered that the sway bar link on the driver's side is bent fairly badly. Hopefully that's all it is but I'm wondering if those two things alone can account for a 2" drop & the wheel being off center.
  15. Good Evening all. apologize for the novel but bear with me...I need a hand troubleshooting before the local dealer takes me to sizzlers. 2006 GMC Sierra 1500. Dual manual Climate controls. Crew Cab. 5.3 Liter. I have an issue with the air conditioning ceasing to cool while driving after about 20 minutes (what seems). The only way I can get the truck to start cooling again (compressor to re-engage) is if I restart the vehicle ( or if I plug in the OBDII Code tester, more on that later). I have taken the vehicle in for service twice. Once to check the refrigerant level which was fine. Second time they replaced the low pressure cycling switch off the dryer/accumulator (which seemed to be a common fix according the internets). All with no joy. I have a OBDII scanner and it shows no codes. Today I made the connection that the compressor seems to stop when I bring the system off full dual cool to a warmer setting where the truck should be trying to maintain a cabin temp instead of full blast. Once all the fans slow down is when I seem to lose the compressor and the cooling even if I try full cold again. I repeated this failure while driving 3 times. However, while parked this issue doesn't seem to happen cycling the full cold to warmer.. cabin maintaining and back to cold. Very frustrating. Final note: while checking the last time while driving and the compressor had stopped I brought it back to my garage... plugged in the scanner prior to restart to see if a code had popped. When I plugged that scanner in.. the truck did its normal thing being tested (kinda a flash on the dash).. however it also "reset" the compressor and it started again... and cooling like a champ without a restart. So in a nutshell this is where I am. Refrigerant is good. low pressure cycling switch is new on the accumulator. Lose the cooling/compressor when the cabin is not full blast and maintaining cabin temp. Restart will bring compressor back to life or plugging in OBDII scanner. So pretty sure the mechanical side is good. What is next to check or replace? HVAC control head? check another sensor? Please help. Sorry about the novel.. but been at this for a while. Hagendaus
  16. I have a 99 Silverado 1500 4.8L standard cab manual. Recently, just after making a turn (both left or right) from a stop or slow roll, I sometimes hear a loud, brief buzz on the drivers side somewhere behind me, just a second or two after pressing the accelerator (normal, not hot rodding). It sounds electronic or hydraulic. Has happened in both 1st and 2nd gear. It’s not a vibration, grind, or constant hum. It sounds similar to but much louder than the sound made by new vehicles when you engage the electronic parking brake. It’s hard to tell exactly where it’s coming from, maybe near the fuel tank but not the fuel pump. Everything seems to be working normal and nothing looks broken or out of place underneath. Anyone have any idea what this is?
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